Di Petsa

Greek designer Di Petsa channelled her recent heartbreak into one of the most talked about collections for the week. The collection took inspiration from the designers own Greek Orthadox upbringing and with Greece just finally legalizing same sex marriage, the collection was a fitting display of love.

_{https://www.instagram.com/p/C3iuSGPN3U4/?hl=en}

With high profile models like Cindy Kimberly, Duckie and Jessie Jo Stark dripping in bells – the show definitely impressed. The collection encapsulated the overall goddess theme of the Di Petsa brand, with a display of Venus being birthed on the runway mixed with their signature wet look, trompe-l’oeil illusion dresses.

_{https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/di-petsa/slideshow/collection#23}

Sinead O’Dwyer

Last Season, Irish designer Sinead O’Dwyer hosted her show at her alma matter – The London Royal College of Art MA classroom. The designer chatted with a journalist as her models walked and displayed her pieces. It was a refreshing change for attendees and set excitement for her proceeding shows. 

_{https://www.instagram.com/p/C3cakXUtaZ1/?hl=en&img_index=10}

This year, the show was hosted at the Old Selfridges hotel, pivoting to a far more central focal point, which was a theme that seemed to extend to the clothes. The designer went back to the brands basics and expressed she focussed her design on body shape, “I design for a diverse body, that’s the thing that drives the brand.” Which we can completely identify with here at VOIR. “From the very beginning of every design, I’m thinking about those body shapes, what sort of garments they might want to wear and how I can interpret things.”

_{https://wwd.com/runway/fall-2024/london/sinead-odwyer/review/}

Simone Rocha

After a jaw dropping display of mature elegance at Paris Haute Couture fashion week, Simone Rocha is riding the wave right into London. The Irish born designer seems to be on an ever-proceeding incline to becoming one of the biggest names in fashion after taking over the Jean Paul Gautier show and receiving praise from the designer himself.

_{https://www.instagram.com/simonerocha_/?hl=en}

Her London Collection took a far more playful, childlike approach with models carrying stuffed animal toys as accessories. She also took the opportunity to announce yet another Rocha x Crocs collaboration, which worked perfectly with the youthful vibe of the collection. 

_{https://www.instagram.com/p/C3kaYXZMBwf/?hl=en&img_index=1}

JW Anderson

JW Anderson put a charming womenswear spin on the eclectic Grandpa trend that’s been circulating for the last few months. They did this by utilising chunky knits, thick wool coats, tweed, English style under garments and lots of slippers.

_{https://www.instagram.com/jw_anderson/?hl=en}

Anderson cited Last of the Summer Wine, a British sit com based around old age pensioners in Yorkshire, as one of his key inspirations.  He captured this Northern aesthetic perfectly and the collection offered itself as a comfortable slice of British nostalgia.

_{https://www.instagram.com/jw_anderson/?hl=en}

Dilara Findikoglu

Turkish-british Dilara Fındıkoğlu has become one of the most anticipated collections, not down to but aided by her recent success dressing Margot Robbie for the Barbie premiere after party. The designer chose to host her show in a church, which she sees as a “safe space”. 

_{https://www.instagram.com/dilarafindikoglu/?hl=en}

The much-awaited collection consisted of corsets, bodices, bright reds and deconstructed under garments. The idea behind the collection was to “destroy the corporate man “and rebel against male-built society. “I am really into the female form and as a female designer, I just need to celebrate the body,” Fındıkoğlu was reported saying.

_{https://www.instagram.com/dilarafindikoglu/?hl=en}

Dreaming Eli

Dreaming Eli is one of the designers to watch, founded by the incredibly talented Elisa Trombatore, who graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2021 with an MA in Fashion. The brand aims to empower women and fight against stereotypes through it’s designs, encouraging power in femininity as well as balancing it with power and danger. 

_{https://www.instagram.com/p/C3fDK4vt3EZ/?hl=en&img_index=1}

Her SS24 collection was titled “Wild Hearts Bleed” and the entire collection encapsulates her the strength and beauty of femininity. The designer achieved this by using boned corsets with hard structured silhouettes, and pairing them with soft colours and delicate fabrics.

_{https://www.instagram.com/p/C3kjwYyI9Oj/?hl=en&img_index=6}

_{Written By Lauren Dickson}

The post LFW40: Whilst Celebrating 40 Years Of London Fashion Week, Who Stole The Show? appeared first on Voir Fashion.

The British Fashion Council have just released the finalised schedule for London Fashion Week 2023, which will as in previous years take place as a digital-physical hybrid. The event will run from Friday 17^th February to Tuesday 21^st February and showcase both womenswear and menswear designers such as Christopher Kane, Erdem, JW Anderson, Molly Goddard, Roksanda and Simone Rocha, among many more.

With over 116 participating designers, 48 catwalk shows, 22 presentations and appointments, 34 events, and 42 digital activations available on the Official Digital Hub via the London Fashion Week website, there’s plenty to look out for over the week.

Highlights include iconic British luxury brand Burberry on Monday the 20th under the new creative direction of Daniel Lee, as well as the return of womenswear designer Natasha Zinko and the brand Tata Naka. The schedule also features exciting emerging designers such as Dilara Findikoglu, KWK by KAY KWOK, Sinead Gorey and Talia Byre.

The British Fashion Council are celebrating the 30th anniversary of its internationally applauded BFC NEWGEN showcasing initiative, which spotlights London’s unique position as a global leader in nurturing creative talent. The BFC NEWGEN Show Space will return to The Old Selfridges Hotel. Participating NEWGEN designers on schedule this season include Ahluwalia, ANCUȚA SARCA, Chet Lo, Conner Ives, DI PETSA, FEBEN, LABRUM London, Leo Carlton, Nensi Dojaka, ROBYN LYNCH, Sinéad O’Dwyer, and yuhan wang.

The City Wide Celebration will also be returning this season with an exciting programme of over 450 events and activations the public can immerse themselves in. The event running and the events will run from Friday 17th to Tuesday 21st February alongside the LFW show schedule. Keep your eyes peeled for the full City Wide programme will be announced next week.

Words By: Molly Sutherland

^{_{Header Image: @londonfashionweek, Chet Lo}}

The post London Fashion Week Releases The February 2023 Schedule – Here’s What To Expect appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Simone Rocha

Atmosphere has certainly been a strong point of shows this year and Simone Rocha was no exception to that, producing a show and collection inspired by traditional Irish horror story ‘Children of Lir’. The gloomy atmosphere of London’s inn of Court served as an excellent backdrop to the collection which featured an array of classically gothic inspired pieces, with hallmarks such as gloriously large frilly dresses and dramatic lashings of black lace. It’s easy to tell that inspiration for this show came from a horror tale because this show was scarily good.

David Koma

Fashion and football aren’t two subjects that you think of crossing over very often, but that doesn’t matter to David Koma, whose focus on British culture for his collection led him down the pathway of the country’s most popular sport. Having recently become a British citizen, Koma looked towards British player Lily Parr who played during the 20s and 30s as the source of inspiration for this show. None of this means that the collection was dressed down though, far from it, as Koma’s signature use of crystals lay sparkling atop gloriously dramatic thigh high boots, seductive slip dresses and even traditional striped rugby shirts. This unusual combination of high-end glamour and sports culture has created a collection that won’t soon be forgotten and gives more reason to combine the unexpected to create something truly exciting.

Yuhan Wang

Titled Venus in Furs, one of the main sources of inspiration behind thus Yuhan Wang collection was none other than her cat Misty, who even made an appearance on the catwalk being carried by one of the models. Considering the inspiration, this collection was unsurprisingly sophisticated yet delightfully playful at the same time. Big bold prints ranging from florals to cat faces were a constant down the runway, adorning elegant streamlined dresses, meticulously tailored jackets and skirts and lavish faux fur coats that would have Cruella de Vil herself in complete hysterics.

16Arlington

In November last year, one half of 16Arlington, Federica “Kikka” Cavenati, passed away aged only 28. Due to such a sad and tragic loss you would forgive her partner Marco Capaldo for putting fashion to the side and stepping away for the season. He did no such thing however, seeing the opportunity as a way to keep Cavenati’s spirit as both a person and a designer alive. 16Arlington is known for its dancefloor ready DNA and Capaldo was able to honour both the brand’s image and his partner’s legacy by creating a collection that was ethereal, beautifully sophisticated and, most importantly, full of life. Minimalist pieces such as tailored jackets, dresses and skirts bathed in cool greys walked alongside more extravagant looks sporting huge turquoise furs, crushed velvet jumpsuits and tie-dyed two pieces. The show was a truly refined celebration of life that served as a wonderful tribute to Cavenati.

Chet Lo

Part of the Fashion East collective, Chet Lo made a bombastically bubblegum appearance at this year’s LFW with a collection washed in a sea of pastel blues, pinks, greens and whites. While the colour palette was undeniably cutesy, the clothes themselves were packed with a punch thanks to the wonderfully over the top adornment of spikes across boots, bags, dresses and even earmuffs. With a small number of furs also thrown in to soften proceedings up a little this collection echoed the styles of futuristic fashion you would see in media from the 60s, making the collection both a vintage and futuristic delight.

Maximilian Davis

For his final show for the Fashion East collective, the LVMH nominated Maximilian Davis curated a show that was dripping with the sleek and sophisticated Y2K inspired style that he has become so known for. The show featured a huge variety of different styles to fawn over from the expert tailoring of boxy, oversized blazers cutting dramatic silhouettes to more casual looks that still look delightfully elegant and sophisticated, such as hoodies paired with sandals to a chic black turtleneck paired with baggy black trousers. Sweeping dresses also made an appearance with a fantastic pink sheer number closing out the show in stunning fashion.

Words By Andrew Coyle

_{Photo Credit: 16ARLINGTON/Filippo Fior}

The post London Fashion Week Day 3 Highlight’s appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Simone Rocha’s collections provide a narrative of womanhood. Their delicate, light and frill adorned surface shouldn’t fool you, they’re rooted in something much stronger. Rocha’s designs are something of an armour for women. Not to be defined by the outward feminine appearance of the garments, they have what the Creative Adviser for H&M, Ann-Sofie Johansson calls ‘a little bit of a dark undertone’. Rocha’s feminine designs are purposeful, they directly play on the overt delicate feminine narrative that is so often presented, in an attempt to reclaim the femininity. These designs encourage audiences to begin viewing the typical feminine archetype in fashion as something bold and strong in itself, as opposed to only looking towards studs, leather, and biker boots to emulate that womanly strength.

It was this take that earned Rocha the praise, recognition, and almost cult-like following that she now possesses and deserves. Yesterday the collaboration launched in all of its frilly, delicate Victorian style glory, and Rocha’s storytelling was not lost in the collab. The tulle, pale pinks, and pearl embroidery that Rocha so often uses to drive this narrative are all present in the new collection, with quirky embroidery, chandelier earrings, and bow details all making a hard-to-miss appearance.

The collection is full of pastel pinks, creams, nudes, blacks and reds. Highlights include the Tinsel Embroidered Puff Skirt, a perfect piece for layering under black puff-sleeved tulle tops. Another of the most striking pieces of the collection is the feathered shoes. From the black-feathered sliders to the red-feathered pumps, they’re certainly a key Simone Rocha piece that so brilliantly ties many of her frill-adorned or tartan patterned pieces together.

Another highlight from the collection includes the Tulle-Embellished cotton dress. With a rounded neckline embellished with faux pearls, the mesh chest abruptly falls into a strip of tartan patterned gathered flounce applique, before effortlessly falling into a split skirt, with gathered tulle pleats and plain tartan cotton blend. The piece is one of the few tartan additions to the line, but it’s cross between tulle, pearls, and tartan is the perfect representation of the blend of feminine strength that Rocha features in her designs.

The Men’s collection is equally as intricate. From hand sewn stone embellished Derby shoes to oversized wool-blend cardigans, Rocha’s debut into menswear is as one would expect, innovative and fresh. The cream cable-knit jumper with faux pearl embellishment around the neckline is a great illustration of Rocha’s vision for the menswear line; this delicate and intricate style of design is strong in its femininity, and that the collection’s focus is mainly power and strength alone.

The collection is of the typical incredible quality of Rocha’s work, with details such as ribbon bows on branded socks, perfect for incorporating the feminine aspect of Rocha’s designs into every detail of your outfit. This stems to Rocha’s accessories too, as the hand sewn glass, stone and bow detailed Alice bands serve to add the prefect amount of subtle Rocha to any outfit.

Like the pages of a children’s storybook brought to life, in the days leading up to the Simone Rocha x H&M drop, Rocha released augmented reality pop-up book experiences to her Instagram in celebration of the new release. The experiences were created by artist Faye Wei Wei and featured names like Helene Bonham-Carter and Kaia Gerber dressed in Rocha to name  

a few. 

Ever mindful, Rocha’s collection is sustainable and has a men’s, women’s, and childrenswear line. This lies consistent with Rocha’s nature as a designer, as she chooses to remain an independent designer despite various offers.

The collection holds 111 pieces, and with reasonable prices it’s a way of reaching all of her fans who may ordinarily be apprehensive about the costs, it’s ‘an opportunity for everybody to get Simone Rocha once’ Elle quoted of Rocha. 

Furthering the buzz around the collection, the likes of Alexa Chung and Barbie Ferreira took to Instagram to show off the latest collab. Dressed and accessorised in some of the highlights of the collection, Chung & Ferreira’s looks included the pale pink and cream silk-blend cloque dress with a cherry-red embellished Alice band as well as the stunning black cropped sequin top and eye-catching black feather slides.

Though selling quickly, the collection is available to shop at H&M. The collaboration screams feminine-gothic and has landed perfectly in time for Spring. Simone Rocha x H&M collab provides us with a light, meaningful and daring collection that is ideal for Winter to Spring transitions, and a great opportunity to get our hands on some Simone Rocha without the price tags. 

Words By Megan Selway

The post Delicate With Dark Undertones: The Simone Rocha x H&M Collection is Here appeared first on Voir Fashion.

The Fashion Industry is full to the brim of incredible innovators, creators and boundary breakers. Celebrating International Women’s Day, Voir Fashion pays homage to the fresh, bold, daring women that are powerfully leading the industry. The catalysts of progression, these women are making great strides, raising the standards and breaking through ceilings. From the architects of punk fashion to the authors of a new, re-defined femininity, there’s a lot to be celebrated.

Marine Serre

Blurring the lines between sportswear and high fashion, enter Marine Serre. In 2017, Serre became the youngest designer at the time to pick up an LVMH Award. Serre debuted at Paris Fashion Week in 2018, consistently appearing since and often using recycled fabrics for her silhouettes. This is really an embodiment of Serre’s futuristic vision, as the forward-thinking, environmentally conscious designs in Serre’s ‘Green Line’ collection were comprised of 50% recycled materials including bedsheets and jeans. In addition, Serre’s work is never shy of making a social or political statement. Serre’s ‘emblem’, the crescent moon, was featured in her winning LVMH collection (titled ‘Radical Call for Love’), and is a commentary on a fast-metamorphosing Europe, migration, immigration, and national identity – the crescent moon is drawn from the Turkish and old Soviet flags. Notable designs from Serre’s past collections include a key fob embellished black opera coat (Spring 2019), and the frayed hem dress constructed of Byzantine floral patterns, paired with a crescent brooch atop a black headband (Spring 2018), and, of course, the celestial patterned nude bodysuit featured in the 2021 Fall Collection. 

Aurora James

Even ‘progressive’ or ‘influential’ doesn’t quite cover the impact made by Aurora James yet. James is the founder and creative director of Brother Vellies, which handcrafts handbags and shoes in Ethiopia, South Africa, Morocco and Kenya. The label was founded in 2013, and strives to retain and maintain traditional African crafting techniques in each beautiful collection. James founded the 15 Percent Pledge, which encourages companies to dedicate at least 15% of their shelf space to Black-owned businesses, given that 15% of the US’s population is made up of Black people. This was a hugely progressive step, as Sephora became the first publicly announced company to join the pledge. For James, Brother Vellies was based on taking the ‘Vellie’ shoe, which is a traditional African shoe, (described by James as the ‘prototypical desert boot’) and to add a contemporary twist. This vision of James’ has, however, vastly grown, as Brother Vellies has expanded into creating heels and sandals, loafers, mules, and even a Bodega of home and lifestyle products. James’ designs make use of natural materials to create fanciful flourishes such as madras bows and pompoms. Brother Vellies’ designs are often adorned in bright pinks, yellows, oranges, and silvers, an artistic celebration of James’ crafters. Favourites from Brother Vellies designs include the 2020 Boots featuring a dark brown and cream shearing which display a Yin Yang symbol – a reminder of the good still yet to come despite the bad in 2020. Another favourite, Brother Vellies’ signature billfold bag, the Lijadu Billfold, named after the Lijadu sisters.

Natasha Zinko

Free-spirited femininity composed of deadstock fabrics, tartan, tulle, and leathers is Natasha Zinko’s brand, and it works. The eclectic collections of Zinko have made waves in the industry. From the ragtag brightly coloured Spring 2020 collections to the Marie Antoinette-derived Fall 2021 collection, Zinko’s designs are hard to define and yet addictive to look at. A previous law student turned Jewellery maker turned Fashion designer, Zinko’s collections often take inspiration from her home country, Ukraine as well as Pretty Woman, Lady Diana, and a make-do-and-mend attitude. Zinko’s fashion inspiration comes from Rei Kawakubo, Lady Diana, and Azzedine Alaia. This blend of hugely alternative styles really defines Zinko’s collections. Minimalism is non-existent in Zinko’s designs, as folkloric patterns, bold silhouettes, and historical periods all blend into one. The Spring 2020 collection featured multi-coloured vintage bandanas and explored gender fluidity alongside sustainability (the collection was partially made up of recycled materials). Ever the progressive, Zinko has even worked with local authorities in her hometown of Odessa to create and distribute recycling facilities. Though all of Zinko’s designs deserve a thorough gaze and analysis, highlights include the patchwork ruffled denim suit from the Fall 2021 collection and the asymmetric ruffled vintage handkerchief dress from Spring 2020. 

Simone Rocha

Victorian romance, Perspex furniture, and femininity all come to mind when discussing Simone Rocha. The Irish International designer made waves in the industry as early as her graduation.  Rocha launched her graduate collection at the Tate Modern and in London Fashion Week in 2010. Since then, Rocha’s journey has been anything but quiet. Rocha’s designs, in all their amorous and eldritch femininity have consistently walked in Fashion Week and have on multiple occasions attracted awards and accolades for Rocha. The collections have caught the eye of renowned retailers, such as the Dover Street Market, Matchesfashion, Ikram, I.T, Bergdorf Goodman, and Saks Fifth Avenue. In addition, Rocha has picked up various awards such as the British Fashion Awards ‘Emerging Talent, Ready-to-Wear’ in 2013 and the Fashion Award’s ‘British Womenswear Designer Award’ in 2016 –  to name a few. It is unsurprising that Simone Rocha has caught the attention of many in the industry, however. Rocha’s designs are often influenced by literature (among many other things), nature, and history. For us, a creation by Rocha that effortlessly captures the essence of Rocha’s brand – a window display in Rocha’s Mount Street London store in 2015 named ‘Flowers and Cars’. The display featured a car completely filled with flowers – a perfect allegory of the manufactured meets mother nature trope that Rocha’s designs so heavily exude.

Vivienne Westwood

It would be hard to compile a list of influential women designers in the industry and not mention Vivienne Westwood. A designer whose work remains just as impactful today as it was in the 70s, the punk fashion architect has always produced collections that are an artistic expression of her own values. In the late ‘60s, Westwood and Malcolm McLaren were fascinated by ‘50s clothing and culture and combining it with youth rebellion. It’s fair to say that this element has always had a quiet presence in Westwood’s designs. In the ‘70s, Westwood turned her attention to leather, zips, studs, and biker style designs. Westwood’s inspiration and creations continued to evolve, summarised with the transition from the iconic ‘80s ‘Pirate Collection’ with all of its romantic undertones to the late ‘80s early ‘90s Harris Tweed collections inspired by the ‘Tatler’ girls, and finally to the 2000s collections which focused on the dimensions of the fabric itself, rather than historicism. Westwood’s political and social activism has always been prevalent in both her designs and personal life, from an ambassador for clean energy for Trillion Fund to PETA ad campaigns to Tatler front covers emblazoned ‘This Woman was once a Punk’ whilst dressed as Margaret Thatcher. Whilst there are too many highlights to cover, the cheesecloth t-shirt with ‘Destroy’ printed across the front that Westwood herself sported in the ‘70s during the punk renaissance will forever be engrained in our minds.

Words By Megan Selway, Graphics By Victoria Zhao

The post International Women’s Day: Our Homage To The Influential Female Designers Of The Moment appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Pearls and thrills and florals. Simone Rocha’s collections are a Pandora’s box of decadence: luxe pieces oozing with rich, exuberant textures and extravagant cuts. Simone Rocha is a feast for the eyes, an opulent spread of sumptuous fashion. This is why we could not be more excited for H&M’s latest designer collaboration.  Get out your diary, magic through the months and circle 11^th March – the release date of the Simone Rocha x H&M. 

No matter how much our hearts desire, often Rocha’s pieces are beyond our budget and many of us are excluded from her delightful world of dreams. However, H&M has ensured we weep no more, their latest announcement promising Rocha’s personality without the high price tag. Said to have spent time ‘reflecting on and recrafting her brand’s archive’, we can expect an overarching collection from this collaboration, a contemporary love child between the old, beloved pieces and new, unseen designs.      

For lovers of Bridgeton, this collection couldn’t have been timed better! The collection is delightfully predictable in that we can expect Rocha’s signature palette of cream, pink, red and black, yet simultaneously unpredictable since for the first time the brand is venturing out into menswear and kidswear. Rocha’s inclusivity echoes her desire for accessibility, designing her latest collection as a stepping-stone for everyone to enter her world. The H&M press release partially details this, telling us to expect ‘Delicate tulle dresses, tartan tailoring, beaded shirting, cable knits, outerwear such as trench coats and signature accessories like sparkling jewellery and pearl-embellished shoes’. 

Beyond the (anticipated) explicit beauty of this collection, the concept of a high-end designer collaborating with a high-street shop is priceless for the fashion industry. Not only does it weave a new affordability into luxury fashion, it also paves the way for high-street (often fast) fashion pieces becoming more treasurable and unique. In sprinkling the high-street with her art, Simone Rocha is subtly breaking the barrier between ‘high’ and ‘low’ fashion, a process all fashion-lovers dreams are made of! 

Until March 11^th? We’ll be dreaming of Simone Rocha x H&M…  

Words by Hannah Emery

The post SIMONE ROCHA X H&M: A Poetic Love Affair Between High-Street and High-End appeared first on Voir Fashion.

If you’ve recently found yourself struck by a desire to regularly swathe yourself in lashings of pearls, velvet and brocade, or with a healthy appreciation for puff sleeves, romantic necklines and jacquard ballgowns, then you’re not alone – Renaissance-era dressing is having a moment right now. Thanks to the preponderance of that giant-collared Ganni shirt, it’s safe to say that we’re experiencing a period of white-blouse mania, whereby fanciful iterations of Shakespearean-inspired blouses and lacy, ruffled confections are firmly entrenched in the season’s repertoire of must-have wardrobe items. The runways, too, in recent seasons have witnessed an inundation of 16th-century-inspired attire, with designers presenting collections in ode to all things Renaissance.

Brock SS20 and AW20

Sometimes when present happenings and goings on feel unsettling – say, amidst a period of political, social or environmental uncertainty – we, as a society, have a collective desire to look to the past as a way of resisting or escaping the realities of the present. Nowhere is this tendency more pervasive than in fashion, where trends and collections are defined by the decades or eras that they mirror, where designers use clothes as a means of transportation to carry us back to the past. Myriad designers have offered a reflection on this cultural zeitgeist of nostalgia, harking back to times past and decades, or centuries, gone by, serving up skirtfuls of whimsical escapism in a bid to ease the bitterness of the present. Not a season goes by without a sartorial reference to ‘90s grunge or ‘70s boho-chic, as nostalgia for not-so-distant decades spills out from celebrity throwback photos and vintage relics from previous generations’ wardrobes.

Khaite AW20 and SS20, Marc Jacobs SS20 and Paco Rabanne AW20

But there’s a certain joie de vivre that comes from celebrating a historical aesthetic that extends back far beyond any of our memories, one constructed of fragments of history – art, stories, fairytales, history books – intertwined with our own imagination, offering a distant escape from the quotidian. The exaggerated aesthetic of Renaissance-era dressing fits neatly into the criteria required for trends to take off in an age when fashion is constructed with the intention to orchestrate a social media moment – it offers a theatricality far removed from the stripped-back normcore and athleisure aesthetics that continue to dominate the fashion landscape, instead peppered with decadent jolts of appeal for sartorial maximalists. The simultaneous collective infatuation for cinematic period pieces seems too coincidental not to address – Greta Gerwig’s Little Women addresses the prairie-meets-Renaissance aesthetic with aplomb (thanks to Academy Award-winning costume designer Jacqueline Durran). Autumn de Wilde’s Emma continues to fan the flames of the trend through its fantastical Regency-era costuming, bursting with bell-skirt ballgowns awash in pastel colourways, imbued with a playful frivolity equally found in Renaissance-era dressing.

Prada SS19

On the runways, many designers have also reached into the capacious bag of Renaissance-era style tricks. At Prada’s Spring/Summer 2019 show, models were sent down the runway in looks complete with opulent headwear worthy of a spot of cushioning Anne Boleyn’s head, ushering in a season of ubiquitous regal padded headbands. (A discussion of Renaissance style would not be complete without paying due respect to Anne Boleyn, the 16th-century’s biggest influencer and fashion’s latest muse – the iconic oil painting in the National Portrait Gallery in London has us musing over her pearl-lined neck, swathed in inky velvet and proudly holding a sky-high embellished veil on her head.)

Simone Rocha AW20 and SS20

Simone Rocha’s aesthetic has long been an ode to the eerie romance of Renaissance-era dressing – for her Spring/Summer 2020 collection, sheer leg-o’mutton sleeves belled out of china-print gowns and pearl-encrusted jewels appeared in copious quantities, grazing the collars of intricate tulle silhouettes or adorning jewel-studded headbands. Brock’s 2020 collections also offered visual feasts of romantic silhouettes that almost look like they were pulled from 16th-century oil paintings – billowing jacquard gowns adorned with intricate embroidery and Juliet sleeves, square-neck brocade dresses and floor-grazing florals rendered in tulle and lace.

Markarian AW20 and SS20

 NYC-based brand Markarian’s whimsical collections possess a certain romantic sensibility that translates into a cocktail of corsetry-inspired silhouettes, sumptuous brocades, and floral print silks, perfectly complemented by evening shawls or scarves that elevate the elegance of any ensemble.”

For his Autumn/Winter 2020 collection at Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossenna unveiled an homage to 16th-century Elizabethan-era style in the form of elaborate ruffle necks and Juliet sleeves, with billowing florals ballooning out from shoulder hems and lace-finished cuffs.

Bella Hadid and FKA Twiggs in Vivienne Westwood AW90

If the ubiquity of Renaissance-inspired looks on the runway isn’t enough to convince you to plunge into the trend, it’s also celebrity-approved, with A-listers from Bella Hadid to FKA Twigs exhibiting a predilection for all things celestial, spotted sporting Vivienne Westwood’s iconic vintage AW90 corset from her oil-painting-inspired Portrait collection. Besides, there’s never been a better time to escape back a few centuries and get dressed as if you were 16th-century royalty.

Words by Ruby McAuliffe

Graphics by Katie Janes

, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

The post The Renaissance Revival: The Joy of Escapist Fashion appeared first on Voir Fashion.

In 2018 Moncler introduced The Genius Project. The Genius Project is the collaboration of the French Brand Moncler with genius fashion designers to release monthly collections. The project at first was deemed too ambitious for the brand as it is the first of its kind, but has since proved to be not only genius but ahead of its time. Under the slogan one house different voices, Moncler continues to expand their rosters of collaborations with today’s leading designers like Pierpaolo Piccioli, Simone Rocha and Richard queen.

During the recent Milan fashion week, we witnessed the third instalment of this project. The show seemed to blow the previous 2019 show out of the water, with even more collaborations and better art installations. The show featured 11 collaborators from great designers like to Richard Queen J W Anderson, Rick Owens to the luggage company Rimowa.

MONCLER JW ANDERSON

Moncler JW Anderson AW2020 Collection

JW Anderson the new kid on the Moncler block brings us in Moncler fashion inflation and unlike the economy, we approve. The designer recreated his archival pieces puffed up with puffer hats and scarves modelled to the tune of Claire de Lune.

MONCLER RICHARD QUINN

Moncler Richard Quinn AW2020 Collection

Richard Quinn combines the future and past with sci-fi fashion and designs of the ’60s. With his own distinct aesthetic, to produce stunning pieces that presented as a space odyssey in the 60s.

MONCLER SIMONE ROCHA

Moncler Simone Rocha AW2020 Collection

With ruffle bottoms and tulle, Simon Rocha introduces femininity to Moncler’s structured technical and functional designs.

The brand also featured with accessory brands like Rimowa, Mate.Bike and Poldo Dog Couture with incredible art installations of a bike mountain, a dog grooming salon and a wall of luggage by Rimowa.

From the shows Moncler Rimowa, Moncler Poldo Dog Couture , Moncler Simone Rocha, Moncler Mate.Bike, Moncler Hiroshi Fujiwara and Moncler Grenoble Collaborations

The Genius project was purposed as a brand to keep up with the speed of the internet age and Instagram society. The red sands of the Moncler 1952 to the horizontal modelling stage in Moncler Grenoble has provided excellent visuals for the brand to continuously stay present in the minds and social media feeds off its consumers.

Words by Precious Njoki

Graphics by Katie Janes

, , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

The post Moncler: The Genius Project appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Burberry, Dilara Findikoglu, David Koma, Matty Bovan, Richard Quinn, Halpern, Ashley Williams, Simone Rocha and JW Anderson AW20 Collections

As London Fashion Week draws to an end, we reflect and give you a round-up of our favourite looks and collections.

Ashley Williams

Ashley Williams AW20 Collection

Ranging from a layered green fur coat, to a satin pink gown covered in bows, Williams leaves nothing to the imagination as this collection employs a perfect combination of youthful spirit and a tongue in cheek approach to fashion.

Burberry

Burberry AW20 Collection

From leopard print and bright power suits to puffer jackets and checked corsets, Burberry’s AW20 collection has everything we need for the season, including a selection of fur trimmed coats and deconstructed rugby shirts that bring more of a new edge as Burberry also brings back its traditional print that everyone knows and loves.

David Koma

David Koma AW20 Collection

Bringing a bit of bling to the runways, David Koma captures the seemingly glamorous side of London life. Filling the room with sparkles, layered leather and velvet-boned corsets, Koma dazzles the audience with a powerfully embellished minidress that beautifully illustrates all things London, including the iconic ‘Gherkin’ building.

Dilara Findikoglu

Dilara Findikoglu AW20 Collection

Dilara Findikoglu’s AW20 collection is anything but ordinary with a hooped-skirt metallic gown covered in structured flowers, satin genie pants and various corsets paired with tights. One of her designs consisted of 3-D floral harness climbing up to the torso of the model and one was aided by a model carrying an actual cat in her arms as she descended the runway.

Erdem

Erdem AW20 Collection

From delicately beaded sheer feminine pieces, to androgynously shaped suits Erdem Moralioglu and Cecil Beaton brought a version of strong elegance to the runway accompanied by feathered head dresses and pops of turquoise and lime green.

JW Anderson

JW Anderson AW20 Collection

Jonathon Anderson brings an element of the 1920s into his AW2020 collection, with bead work, tinsel-covered garments, iridescent translucent fabrics and mirrored metallic tassels. His leather shawl-collared black over-sized suit juxtaposed the delicacy of the tinsel perfectly with such a strong silhouette.

Matty Bovan

Matty Bovan AW20 Collection

Matty Bovan’s AW20 collection pushes the boundaries on socially acceptable fashion, through his hanging curtains and hair-covered head dresses.True to form, Bovan creates a collection of weird and wonderful designs, that have no obvious narrative or order but bring a whirlwind of colour, shape and excitement to the runway this season.

Richard Quinn

Richard Quinn AW20 Collection

One of the most powerful piece form Richard Quinn’s AW20 collection is the jewelled head-to-toe armoured ensemble that reads “God Save The Quinn” across the skirt – a clear homage to Britain. The rest of the collection is a kaleidoscope of extravagantly silhouetted gowns, feathered head dresses and the iconic Quinn power shoulders.

Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha AW20 Collection

Throughout Simone Rocha’s show you see a collection of pure light streaming down the runway, consisting of cream satin, tule and wool layers. As the show progresses, darker more romantic tones begin to enter, covered in florals with rich blue, purple and red colours bleeding into the collection.

Temperley London

Temperley London AW20 Collection

Alice Temperley’s collection which was shown in her Bruton Street store was intended to bring an element of fun to London Fashion Week. Her pieces ranged from feminine vintage-style dresses, to stronger leather suits with a music-inspired print featuring multiple times throughout the collection.

Halpern

Halpern AW20 Collection

Bringing back some 80s vibes, Halpern’s AW20 collection consists of a multitude of detailed textures and prints, ranging from burnout velvet and green snake print leather to 3-D floral colours and fringed tiger print. Many of the looks were accompanied by knee-high boots and intricate face decoration.

Words by Katie Janes

Graphics by Katie Janes

, , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

The post Our AW20 London Fashion Week Round-Up appeared first on Voir Fashion.