Ralph Lauren: A Return To Glamorous Americana

Ralph Lauren marked his return to NYFW with a show that was a celebration of classic American style infused with an elevated, glamorous edge. Staged in Brooklyn, the collection showcased Lauren’s signature mix of preppy staples and opulent eveningwear.

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Standout Looks: The collection featured a range of styles, from classic denim and tailored blazers to gold-sequined gowns and silk evening dresses. The collection housed a mixture of neutrals along with bold, signature RL colours such as green, orange, and blue. A standout moment was a white, crochet halter top and lace skirt, embodying timeless elegance, paired with statement jewellery and oversized belts that nodded to Western motifs. The collection emphasised Lauren’s ability to merge heritage Americana with a modern sensibility, creating a runway full of quintessential, luxurious pieces.

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Willy Chavarria: A Bold Political Statement

Willy Chavarria’s show was one of the most talked-about events of NYFW. Known for his streetwear with a social conscience, Chavarria continued to explore themes of cultural identity, inclusion, and activism.Chavarria chose a disused bank on New York’s Wall Street, a potent symbol of American power and wealth, to present his latest collection, titled ‘América’.

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Standout Looks: The Spring/Summer 2025 collection featured oversized silhouettes, sharp tailoring, and powerful statements through graphic prints and slogans. With a very utilitarian, sportswear theme to the collection, looks consisted of cargo trousers, pockets, keys attached to belt loops, sports jackets, and Adidas logos. One of the standout pieces was a pair of voluminous black trousers, worn with a black sports jersey, and powerful, white shirt collar peeking over the top, delivering a strong message of empowerment and an ode to the theme of Americana and the mix of sportswear and formal wear. Another notable look was a long, sheer dress with frills as the sleeves and collar, a simple yet elegant look, made more striking when modelled on a male model down the runway. 

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Kim Shui: A Fusion Of East And West

Kim Shui delivered a dynamic collection that blended her multicultural background with a contemporary edge. Known for her sexy, body-hugging silhouettes and eclectic prints, the designer did not disappoint.

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Standout Looks: The collection featured a vibrant mix of fabrics, colours, and textures, including silk, mesh, and lace. A standout look was a satin, off-the-shoulder corset adorned with floral motifs, blending Eastern influences with modern street style. Another memorable outfit was a brow, leather, lace-up look consisting of a cut-out, cap sleeve top and flared, lace-up sided trousers, seen in both a male and female version on the runway, highlighting the designer’s signature fusion of femininity and power.

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Off-White: A New Era Of Streetwear Luxury

Off-White’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, under the creative direction of Ibrahim Kamara, pushed the boundaries of streetwear while maintaining the brand’s signature edgy aesthetic. The show was a celebration of urban style, with a focus on tailoring, deconstruction, and bold, graphic elements. Set in the Basketball courts of Brooklyn, singers Zayn Malik, Mary J. Blige and Camila Cabello and model Alessandra Ambrosio, flocked to the waterfront for the show.

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Standout Looks: The collection featured oversized blazers, cutout dresses, and trench coats with unexpected details. A standout piece was a monochrome look featuring a deconstructed trench coat with dramatic, asymmetric sleeves paired with wide-legged trousers. Another highlight was a series of graffiti-covered leather jackets and metallic pants, emphasizing the brand’s ability to merge streetwear with luxury fashion.

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Sergio Hudson: Glamorous Power Dressing

Sergio Hudson’s collection was a masterclass in power dressing, with a glamorous twist. The designer, known for his polished, feminine silhouettes, delivered a lineup that paid homage to 1980s and 1990s fashion icons while infusing modern sensibilities.

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Standout Looks: The collection featured vibrant colours, sharp tailoring, and bold shoulders. One of the standout looks was a bright pink short suit with exaggerated shoulders and a cinched waist, paired with a metallic pink blouse. Another memorable piece was a floor-length, sequined gown in lavender, evoking a sense of old Hollywood glamour while remaining fresh and contemporary.

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A Tribute To The Alaïa Woman

The collection was a love letter to the “Alaïa woman,” known for her strength, sensuality, and sophistication. Mulier stayed true to the brand’s heritage by focusing on body-conscious silhouettes, exquisite tailoring, and meticulous craftsmanship. The collection showcased an array of luxurious fabrics and textures, from the classic stretch knit that Alaïa is renowned for to innovative materials like perforated leather, sheer organza, and silk jersey. Mulier played with transparency and layering, using fabrics that moved fluidly against the body while maintaining structure. This exploration of texture added depth to the collection, creating visual interest and highlighting the brand’s artisanal roots. Each piece was a testament to the house’s commitment to celebrating the female form, with designs that highlighted curves, accentuated waistlines, and draped elegantly over the body.

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Standout Looks: The show opened with a series of monochrome looks in Alaïa’s signature black, featuring sleek, sculpted dresses that hugged the body and flowed gracefully with every step. One of the standout pieces was a white, cut-out, ruched dress with a strapless neckline and high-low hemline, cinched at the waist to emphasize an hourglass silhouette. Another striking look was a black, intricately knitted, voluminous dress with strategic cutouts that revealed hints of skin, creating a balance between modesty and sensuality.

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Christian Cowen: A Modern Whodunnit

Christian Cowan’s Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection was a showstopper at New York Fashion Week, bringing his signature flair for drama, fun, and unapologetic glamour to the runway. Known for dressing pop icons like Lady Gaga and Cardi B, Cowan once again delivered a collection that was all about bold, eye-catching pieces designed for those who love to make a statement. The collection was a murder mystery-meets-Carrie Bradshaw affair, inspired by the horrors and whodunnits Cowan had watched, with the models sporting a flapper-style, black bob haircut and 1920’s inspired makeup with thin brows and brow-bone highlight. Cowan opted for black, silver, and cobalt blue palette, showcasing some powerhouse tailoring and creativity with different materials and cutouts.

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Standout Looks: Looking at Cowan’s flare for tailoring, one of the standout looks offered a black, satin, 3-piece suit, consisting of a long-line blazer with exaggerated white cuffs, straight-leg trousers, and a lacey, micro-bralette – adding a touch of the feminine to an otherwise masculine ensemble. Another look we saw grace the runway was a satin, cobalt suit, with a cravat and metal rose fastening the suit – a detail that Cowan himself chose to wear during his appearance at the end of the show. 

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Coach: A Playful Tribute To Classic America

For Spring 2025, Coach creative director Stuart Vevers delivered a collection that beautifully blended the brand’s heritage with a fresh, modern twist. The show was a celebration of classic Americana, presented with a playful and youthful edge that has become synonymous with Vevers’ tenure at the iconic American fashion house. Staged against the backdrop of a sunny day in New York City, the collection evoked a sense of optimism, freedom, and casual cool. Vevers took inspiration from Coach’s roots, reimagining vintage Americana through a contemporary lens. The collection drew on the codes of American sportswear—denim, leather, and varsity jackets—infused with a youthful spirit and a hint of nostalgia. The designs played with proportion and layering, mixing oversized silhouettes with more tailored pieces to create a dynamic and versatile wardrobe. Vevers continued his exploration of diverse textures and materials, blending traditional fabrics with unexpected finishes. The collection featured an array of materials, from soft knits and lightweight cottons to luxe leathers and denims, all contributing to the tactile appeal of the pieces. This mix of textures created a sense of depth and richness that felt both elevated and approachable.

Standout Looks: One of materials we saw frequently used in the Coach show was brown leather, an ode to the 1940’s US army uniform. The utilitarian look cropped up throughout the runway, seen in jackets, skirts, trousers, and blazers. Even the classic aviator-style jacket was seen, paired with a satin, brown dress. Again, with a strong reference of Americana, we saw denim flood the Coach show, with classic denim jackets, high-cut jeans, even paired together in a y2k-inspired double denim look!

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Brandon Maxwell: A Redefined Exploration Of Femininity And Modernity

Brandon Maxwell’s Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection, showcased at New York Fashion Week, was a masterclass in understated elegance and modern sophistication. Known for his clean lines, luxurious fabrics, and effortless chic, Maxwell delivered a collection that felt both refined and refreshingly contemporary. With a focus on wearability and elevated basics, the designer presented a lineup that was versatile, timeless, and imbued with a sense of quiet confidence. Maxwell’s Spring 2025 collection centred around soft tailoring and fluid silhouettes, capturing a sense of ease and movement. The designer skilfully balanced structure with softness, presenting pieces that draped elegantly on the body while maintaining a polished and refined aesthetic. There was a noticeable focus on comfort and practicality, with relaxed fits and lightweight fabrics that allowed for easy layering. At the core of Maxwell’s Spring 2025 collection was a celebration of modern femininity. The designer played with a mix of structured and soft shapes, emphasizing both strength and grace. The collection was filled with pieces that felt effortlessly chic, empowering women through clothing that is as comfortable as it is stylish.

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Standout Looks: A standout ensemble featured a textured white crop top paired with a high-waisted midi skirt, both crafted from a woven fabric that added a tactile element to the minimalist silhouette. Another memorable look was a floor-length silk gown in a soft purple with a subtle sheen, catching the light with every step. A cashmere-knit cardigan in a soft camel colour layered over a slip dress also drew attention, underscoring the collection’s emphasis on fabric quality and luxurious comfort.

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Tory Burch: A Minimalist Ode To Elegance And Ease

Tory Burch’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection at New York Fashion Week was a masterful exploration of minimalist elegance and modern femininity. Known for her refined take on American sportswear, Burch presented a collection that emphasized clean lines, understated luxury, and effortless style. The show reflected a subtle yet powerful shift towards simplicity and sophistication, showcasing the designer’s talent for balancing practicality with timeless appeal. The collection embraced minimalism with a distinctly feminine touch, featuring streamlined silhouettes that were both sleek and fluid. Burch focused on a pared-back aesthetic, using carefully selected fabrics and precise tailoring to create pieces that exuded a quiet confidence. The designs celebrated the art of simplicity, with an emphasis on comfort and wearability. Burch experimented with proportions and silhouettes, offering a range of styles that moved effortlessly from fitted to voluminous. The collection included a mix of tailored pieces, such as fitted jackets and structured skirts, alongside more fluid, relaxed shapes like oversized shirts and flowing maxi dresses. This dynamic interplay of silhouettes added versatility and a sense of movement to the collection.

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Standout Looks: The collection opened with a series of monochromatic looks in neutral tones, such as ivory, beige, and soft grey, setting a tone of relaxed elegance. A standout look featured a brown, tailored, wrap over blazer worn over a long, flowing trousers, epitomising Burch’s approach to modern suiting. Another highlight was a utility jacket in a warm caramel hue, with a contrast trim and high-neck design, paired with white, tailored trousers – showcasing a beautiful colour palette and attention to detail.

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Khaite: A Celebration Of Urban Edge And Feminine Power

Khaite’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, showcased at New York Fashion Week, continued creative director Catherine Holstein’s exploration of duality in modern womenswear: the tension between structure and fluidity, masculinity and femininity, and the interplay of hard and soft. Known for its distinct fusion of understated luxury and cool, contemporary edge, Khaite delivered a collection that was both polished and raw, embodying the spirit of the modern woman. The collection played with contrasts, balancing strength with sensuality in a way that felt both empowering and seductive. Holstein showcased sharply tailored blazers, structured trench coats, and sleek trousers alongside softer, more fluid pieces like slip dresses, sheer knits, and flowing skirts. This dynamic interplay created a sense of movement and versatility, catering to women who effortlessly shift between different roles and styles. Holstein’s meticulous attention to fabric and texture was evident throughout the collection. The designer combined rich, tactile materials—leather, chiffon, silk, cashmere, and cotton—layered in unexpected ways to create depth and dimension. The result was a collection that felt both luxurious and approachable, exuding a sense of quiet confidence and understated elegance.

Standout Looks: A buttery-soft, silk, two-piece shirt and trouser set in a burgundy hue, featuring a tailored neckline and button up detail, stood out as a highlight, embodying the collection’s focus on minimalism and elegance. Another memorable piece was a silk, heavily ruched top in a subtle gold shade, layered over sheer, chiffon trousers in the same colour demonstrated a masterful blend of light materials. A simple, oversized leather jacket, styled with a white tee and a sheer, pinstriped maxi skirt, showcased Holstein’s skill in elevating everyday basics with luxurious textures.

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Proenza Schouler: A Fusion Of Artful Minimalism And Modern Femininity

Proenza Schouler’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, presented at New York Fashion Week, was a sophisticated exploration of artful minimalism and contemporary femininity. Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez offered a lineup that celebrated clean lines, meticulous craftsmanship, and thoughtful detailing, all while retaining the brand’s signature edge. The collection highlighted a refined yet dynamic approach to modern dressing, focusing on versatility, comfort, and understated elegance. The collection showcased a variety of architectural silhouettes, blending sharp tailoring with softer, fluid shapes that created a harmonious balance. The designers played with proportions and structure, delivering looks that moved effortlessly between fitted and voluminous. The result was a series of garments that felt modern, wearable, and uniquely Proenza Schouler. The collection emphasized Proenza Schouler’s commitment to detail and craftsmanship. McCollough and Hernandez used subtle embellishments, such as delicate pleating, fringe details, and hand-stitched elements, to elevate simple shapes into something truly special. These thoughtful touches provided a sense of movement and texture without overwhelming the minimalist aesthetic.

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Standout Looks: Stripes were heavy on this runway, amongst the stripes we saw, a favourite was a blue and white, striped maxi dress with a slash neckline and a frayed, torn hemline. This detail of fraying occurred frequently throughout the show, particularly in their knitted designs. Another standout was a textured, fringed, high-low skirt in a neutral ivory, paired with a crisp, oxford shirt in white. This look also featured in black, showcasing a contrasting design between masculinity and femininity. A leather trench coat worn over a midi dress, with a pop of bright fuchsia feathers blended softness with structure.

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The Spring/Summer 2025 shows at New York Fashion Week celebrated a season of contrasts, where bold statements met subtle sophistication and traditional craftsmanship aligned with avant-garde experimentation. Each designer, from Ralph Lauren’s timeless American elegance to Alaïa’s sculptural artistry, brought a unique perspective to the runway, capturing the multifaceted nature of modern fashion. Collections like those from Proenza Schouler and Tory Burch focused on minimalist refinement, while Christian Cowan and Kim Shui pushed the boundaries with bold, extravagant designs. Willy Chavarria and Off-White challenged conventions with socially charged and street-inspired aesthetics, and Coach infused contemporary street style with a nostalgic twist. The shows of Sergio Hudson and Khaite offered a celebration of colour and texture, balancing luxury with everyday wearability. As NYFW draws to a close, the collections collectively highlight a commitment to creativity, innovation, and the celebration of individuality, setting an inspiring tone for the fashion seasons ahead.

_{Written By Bethan Gwynne}

The post Threads Of New York: The Standout Collections From NYFW Spring/Summer 2025 appeared first on Voir Fashion.

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The streets of fashion week are just as much of a show as the runways and often showcase the more accessible of the trends displayed on the catwalks. They show how real people are taking the inspiration they are seeing at shows and putting their own spin on it. We thought we’d give a breakdown of some reoccurring trends we saw on the streets of NYC.

Pops Of Red

One trend we’ve been seeing everywhere for the last few months is the pops of red, or full monochromatic red looks. We’ve loved seeing this on runway but seeing it from a street style point of view is even more special. Seeing how people fit it into their own personal style and make it work in a non-commercial way is so much more genuine.

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We’ve been seeing a lot of red coming in in regard to accessories and footwear, specifically ballet flats and handbags. We’ve also seen come incredible red hair accessories this fashion week – bows, hairclips, and anything else you can possibly think of.

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£ 49.99

Mango Saint Ballerinas With Studs

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£ 55.25

Topshop Red Leather Kitten Heel With Buckle

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£ 78

Free People Slouchy Carryall

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Statement Scrunchies

Continuing along the pop of colour trend, one thing we noticed among some particularly stylish looks at NYFW, was how many people chose to incorporate a pop of colour into their looks through a big statement scrunchie. We are particularly fond of the look below by fashion lover and fashion week attendee Aisha Farida.

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£ 40

Isla De Gar Bubblegum Pink Flower Scrunchie

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Bubble Skirts

Bubble Skirts are definitely an up-and-coming spring summer staple. Whilst they give us a flashback to the bubble skirts of the early 2000’s, we are ready to embrace 2024’s take on the iconic bubble skirt with open arms. They offer us to have our legs out and feel more weather appropriate as we come into the warmer months while not having to sacrifice any of the character of our style in doing so. 

£ 48

Jaded London Black Mini Balloon Skirt

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We are starting to see them slowly trickle down to more affordable high street stores after being all the rage on runway in 2023, just in time for Spring/Summer. They are also so versatile when it comes to styling, we love the monochromatic pieces used in this styling by an attendee of the Sandy Liang show, and the stunning silhouette it creates. 

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Bonnets

Bonnets and Balaclavas have been in the fashion world for a while now, and while the rise of the trend was totally unpredictable, the origin could be traced back to Dior’s cruise collection in 2022 in which several of the looks came with matching bonnets. They are a bit of a marmite of the fashion world, as you either love them or hate them. But we are not one to turn down aa quirky accessory so are completely here for it.  Bonnets are the perfect way to add a touch of chic whimsy to otherwise, simple outfits. 

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£ 11.40

ASOS Knitted Hood

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£ 12

Topshop Sno Knitted Stripe Balaclava

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Oversized Coats

Coats are never out of style, especially somewhere with weather that reaches below freezing temperatures, and this Fashion Week our favourite fashionable New Yorkers didn’t disappoint, and strutted the streets with some particularly chic outerwear. Neutrals were huge, particularly darker browns as well as colours more fitting for the coming spring months like the stunning mint green embossed coat below.

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£ 66.46

NA-KD Long Straight Brown Coat

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£ 52.50

Topshop Extreme Shoulder Brushed Overcoat

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_{Written By Lauren Dickson}

^{Header Image Credits: @Whiteteeblackdress Instagram}

The post Trends We Kept Seeing Among New York Fashion Week Street Style appeared first on Voir Fashion.

LUAR: The Infusion Of Leather And Fur

 The LUAR fashion show for New York Fashion Week 2024, under the creative direction of Raul Lopez, clearly presented a bold narrative with its collection, showcasing a unique interplay of texture, silhouette, and a distinct flare for drama. The clothes combined leather with soft fur, producing a visually and texturally appealing contrast. One of the more eye-catching pieces is a voluminous leather coat with exaggerated shoulders. The coat’s soft fur lapels and cuffs lend a touch of luxury and extravagance. 

 Raul Lopez’s artistry is evident in the meticulous attention to detail and precision with which each piece is constructed. The use of zippers and the tailored fit of the leather garments demonstrate a high level of skill and craftsmanship, implying that each piece is both a fashion statement and a work of art. 

Raul Lopez’s LUAR collection for NYFW 2024 might be interpreted as a celebration of strength and softness past and future, tradition, and rebellion, all woven together into a seamless story that speaks to the adventurous spirit of contemporary fashion. This interplay of contrasts, both in materials and aesthetics, establishes a tone that is likely to be felt throughout the fashion industry, marking LUAR as a brand unafraid to defy traditions and redefine luxury. 

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AREA Collection: Exploring The Interplay Of Eyes, Cut-Outs And Embellishments

At the recent AREA fashion show, designers Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk redefined contemporary glamour with their bold silhouettes and innovative use of embellishments. 

Their collection showcased an unconventional approach to fashion, with each piece telling its own unique narrative through the intricate detailing. One outstanding piece was a dress with a variety of oversized, circular cut-outs, each framed by a shimmering outline that played with the concepts of reveal and conceal. This garment blurred the distinction between clothing and art, creating a compelling visual narrative that was both avant-garde and wearable. 

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Another astonishing piece had a classic white dress that served as a canvas for black and white ‘eye’ embellishments, resulting in a three-dimensional look similar to optical art. The meticulous positioning of each embellishment revealed Fogg and Panszczyk’s attention to detail and commitment to pushing the limits of textile manipulation. The show also featured a suit that defied traditional tailoring with its bold cut-outs and rich, crystalline embellishments. This sculpture demonstrated AREA’s ability to convert traditional forms into modern masterpieces through the use of detail and embellishment. 

Each look in the collection exemplified AREA’s unique blend of high fashion and haute couture techniques, cementing Fogg and Panszczyk’s reputation as fashion industry innovators. The designers’ talent for spectacular presentations and dedication to craftsmanship were visible in every stitch and sequin, making the AREA fashion show a highlight of New York Fashion Week and a glimpse into the future of fashion. 

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Jason Wu: Crinkle Dresses

At the Jason Wu fashion show for New York Fashion Week 2024, a notable highlight was the designer’s innovative take on crinkle dresses, which brought texture and movement to the forefront of his collection. These dresses are a testament to Wu’s attention to detail and his ability to transform fabric into a statement of elegance and sophistication. 

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The first dress in icy mint green featured a delicate crinkled texture that flowed gracefully down the length of the body, creating an ethereal silhouette. The high neckline and cap sleeves added a touch of structure, while the overall shimmer of the fabric captured the light with each step the model took down the runway. 

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A standout moment was the unveiling of a crinkled gold dress, which seemed to pour down the model’s form like liquid metal. The asymmetric shoulder added a modern twist to this otherwise sleek silhouette, resulting in a show-stopping piece that combined glamour with contemporary edge. 

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The collection also included a vibrant yellow crinkled dress, which juxtaposed the crumpled texture of the fabric with a sleek, fitted silhouette. The sheer panel at the neckline added a subtle hint of allure, contrasting with the vibrant, texturized body of the dress. 

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Gabriela Hearst: Infusion Of Gold And Black

During New York Fashion Week, Gabriela Hearst’s fashion show included a striking black and gold motif that flowed throughout the collection, creating a visual narrative of elegance and power. The first image shows a model wearing a sculptural gold satin top with a dramatic, single puff sleeve, paired with elegant black trousers. The contrast between the shiny gold fabric and the matte black produces an intriguing interplay of textures and colours. The top, with its architectural lines and luxurious material, stands out against the fitted simplicity of the trousers, demonstrating Hearst’s ability to strike a balance between grandeur and wearability. 

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A highlight of the show was a full-length golden gown that shimmered down the runway, reflecting light with each movement. The column dress, with its straight strapless neckline and crinkled texture, radiated timeless glamour, yet felt thoroughly modern in its execution. This piece, in particular, encapsulated the show’s theme, with gold serving as a symbol of luxury and celebration. 

Gabriela Hearst’s infusion of black and gold in her collection alluded to a notion of duality, placing the depth of black against the radiant opulence of gold. This combination was more than just a colour story; it was a story of contrasts: the ordinary blended with the extraordinary. 

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Coach: Motif Of Bows

At the recent Coach fashion show, the motif of bows emerged as a charming and consistent theme, woven throughout the collection with a sense of playfulness and nostalgia. 

The bow, a symbol often associated with femininity and whimsy, was woven into the designs in a manner that balanced sweetness with sophistication. The use of bows varied in execution from subtle to pronounced, ensuring each piece maintained a sense of individuality while contributing to the cohesive narrative of the collection. 

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One look featured a delicate black velvet camisole, where the bow served as a focal point, exaggerated in size, and draped across the torso to create a dramatic contrast against the streamlined silhouette of the garment. This design choice highlighted the bow as not just an adornment but as a structural component, redefining the garment’s shape and adding a sculptural quality to the look. 

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Another look showcased the bow in a more understated manner, with a bow-tied waistband on a pair of casual jeans. Here, the bow was a playful nod to traditional denim styling, offering a juxtaposition between the casual, everyday fabric and the traditionally more formal or decorative bow. 

Throughout the Coach show, the bows, whether as a bold statement or a subtle detail, added a touch of the romantic and the vintage to contemporary silhouettes, infusing the collection with a sense of joy and a nod to the past. 

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Carolina Herrera: Flower Power

At the Carolina Herrera fashion show, flowers took centre stage, telling a story of timeless elegance and vibrant femininity. Each garment, adorned with floral patterns, bloomed on the runway, reflecting the brand’s romantic and sophisticated style. 

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One of the dresses featured was a magnificent bloom of pastel peonies on a blush pink canvas. The gown’s voluminous skirt and fitted bodice allowed the floral print to take centre stage. The delicate balance between the grand silhouette and the softness of the floral print encapsulated Carolina Herrera’s signature style, infusing grandeur with grace. 

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Another gown, in deep purple colour, covered with layers of ruffles adorned with lighter floral prints, created a sense of movement and lightness. The choice of a strapless bodice highlighted the neck and shoulders, providing a clean line that contrasted beautifully with the gown’s playful ruffles. 

_{https://www.instagram.com/p/C3X3cIBOVMp/?img_index=1}

The collection also included a yellow dress that draped gently around the body, it possessed a delicate floral pattern that brought a burst of sunshine, demonstrating how a powerful print can elevate a simple silhouette. Throughout the collection, the floral theme celebrated the beauty of nature and embodied the joy and femininity of wearing Carolina Herrera. Each flower-laden piece captured the essence of a life in full bloom. 

_{https://www.instagram.com/p/C3XPk1mRbCK/?img_index=2}

Ludovic de Saint Sernin: Metal Mesh And Crystal Mesh Materiels Grace The Runway

Metal mesh and crystal mesh dominated the Ludovic de Saint Sernin fashion show, demonstrating the designer’s innovative power and exceptional ability of merging textures and shapes. These materials, both flexible and fluid, hugged the body to reveal and conceal.

_{https://www.instagram.com/p/C3YNswFvpGw/?img_index=1}

One standout piece was a dark red metal mesh dress, which draped over the body. The crystal incrustations added a layer of opulence to the outfit, catching the light and ensuring that the garment was as much a piece of jewellery as it was a piece of clothing. The deep cleavage cut introduced a daring element, perfectly balanced by the intricate detailing and craftsmanship. 

_{https://www.instagram.com/p/C3YNswFvpGw/?img_index=1}

Another striking item was a halter top made of dark red and black metal mesh. The piece embraces a more raw and edgy approach while retaining the beauty associated with Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s work. The halter neck’s asymmetry and colour contrast resulted in a visually striking piece that challenged typical evening wear concepts. The use of these metallic textiles makes a bold statement in the world of high fashion, displaying Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s ability to produce clothing that is both aesthetically beautiful and also forward-thinking. The metal mesh serves as both a garment and an accessory, sculpting the body in fluid lines and giving a futuristic touch to the collection. 

_{https://www.instagram.com/p/C3YNswFvpGw/?img_index=1}

Altuzarra Ready To Wear FW Collection – Mix And Match Prints

Altuzarra’s Ready-to-Wear FW Collection made a bold statement on the runway with its masterful mix-and-match print moments, embracing a vibrant narrative of patterns. The juxtaposition of fiery reds and yellows with more subdued earthy tones creates visual tension, showcasing Altuzarra’s print mixing ability. 

One of the looks is a dress consisting of stripes against a flowery explosion, playing with the concepts of order and chaos. The fluidity of the skirt’s print softens the top’s dramatic stripes, resulting in an ensemble that is both a piece of art and a fashion statement. 

Another look is a jumpsuit with a coherent blend of organic and geometric elements. The pattern change does not disrupt the flow of the garment, demonstrating how clashing prints may work together to produce a single, flowing piece that is both dynamic and elegant. 

Although Altuzarra’s collection was generally more casual ready to wear looks, these garments were the highlight of the show. the vibrant exploration of print on print demonstrates the combination of unexpected patterns to create outfits that are both unique and unforgettable. 

_{https://www.instagram.com/altuzarra/?hl=en}

_{Written By Gabriella Neocleous}

The post Highlights From New York Fashion Week appeared first on Voir Fashion.

The newest PUMA AW24 collection revolved around the resurrected iconic Mostro – the refashioned 1999 sneaker acting as an inspiration for the whole set of outfits. Mostro found itself recreated in multiple forms, from more traditional, white-yellow-blue ones, with strap closures, to the more avant-garde – spiky, metallic, made of purple mesh, or ankle-length and khaki-coloured to match a military outfit. Regardless of whether we’re talking of the neon-yellow-spiked sneakers or the silver nylon Mostro boots, the shoes were by no means a mere accessory. They were the axis around which the show revolved. 

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Inspired by the futuristic, alien-like form of the spiky sneakers, Desens and McKimm’s collection was based on mostly metallic colours, nylon, vegan leather, and all fabrics shiny. What dominated was the varied, oversized tracksuit sets – some glittering with diamonds, some spaceship-like-silver and metallic, some made of vegan leather, and some sewn out of irresistibly soft, black velvet.

_{https://www.instagram.com/p/C3AOr_4Nqw7/?hl=en&img_index=1}

We also marvelled at leather and red velvet bodysuits, balaclavas, cargo trousers, and windbreaker-inspired, full-length dresses. The wow effect soared thanks to the accessories, including unconventionally shaped, futuristic sunglasses, matching gloves, and cosmic sports bags. The last outfit was the cherry on the Mostro delicious cake, with its white nylon catsuit and diamond-encrusted motorbike helmet. 

_{https://www.instagram.com/p/C3HhjC7OOyy/?hl=en&img_index=3}

It wasn’t just the magic outfits that created the mysterious, other-worldly atmosphere – just look at the stunning makeup done by Isamaya Ffrench! Though basic at first glance, at a closer look you spot the elf-like, pointed fake ears and the glistering black horns attached to models’ foreheads. Could we be more obsessed with those looks? 

_{https://www.instagram.com/p/C3HDLGloa_y/?hl=en&img_index=2}

The show space added to the dynamic, hypnotising aura, and you just couldn’t help immersing yourself in it right after crossing the entrance, with “Welcome To The Amazing Mostro Show” reading above it. The space, reverberating with Eartheater’s electrifying music, was filled with life-size amusement park props – roller coaster, Ferris wheel, and flying swings (with flying Mostro-wearing fake legs!). The spacious interior and high ceilings of Park Avenue Armory, with metal constructions and props in half-light, created a unique atmosphere for an equally mesmerising and innovative collection. 

_{https://www.instagram.com/p/C3IZf9_sTDt/?hl=en&img_index=1}

The celebs who visited the show seemed to be as impressed by the show as we were, taking countless selfies with the enormous, lighted flying swings in the background. Among notable guests were Emily Ratajkowski, Ashley Graham, Davido, Kyle Kuzma, Becky G, and Hari Nef.

_{https://www.instagram.com/p/C3FoV6GtyhK/?hl=en}

However, the key celebrity in PUMA’s Mostro collection is, no doubt, ASAP Rocky, who starred in the uncanny, Alien-like advertising short film, published a few days before the show. With its Ridley Scott inspirations, it already set the cosmic tone for the whole event and whetted our appetites. But we probably hadn’t imagined in our wildest dreams what a breathtaking show PUMA was to offer us. 

Words By Julia Sułkowska 

_{Header Image Credit: @Puma Instagram}

The post Mostro Or Nostromo? PUMA’s Iconic Sneaker Returns At New York Fashion Week In Cosmic Style appeared first on Voir Fashion.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CxV6IMhA9JB/?img_index=1

Mirror Palais

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Stakes were high for the viral brand’s second New York show, but Marcelo Gaia delivered a collection that had the internet in just as much of a frenzy as last year. The SS24 show Gaia turned up the heat by adding sexiness to their signature bows, ruffled mesh gowns, and low-waist maxi bottoms. One look in particular, a nude lace-up corset and long skirt, has Fashion TikTok on their knees. The pieces are meant to let you wear your fantasies, with soft pink and cream colors dominating alongside dreamy satin, tulle, and velvety fabrics. What caught everybody’s attention is that this collection adds diversity to their sizes, using ribbon ties and stretchy materials. From Sailor Moon-inspired bandage dresses to wide-brimmed hats as a nod to Audrey Hepburn, the dreamy inspiration is clear. Feminine icon Cindy Kimberly closed the show in a bridal dress, cementing the show as one of this season’s highlights.

Sandy Liang

https://www.instagram.com/p/CxBvM4sOxMR/?img_index=1

For Spring 2024, Sandy Liang took the concept of “I’m just a girl” and turned it into a show. The hyperfeminine, nostalgic, and whimsical ensembles had all the ballet core and coquette fans gasping in delight. We’re sure to see all the New York cool girls wearing the pleated skirts and ballerinas featured in no time. The “The Virgin Suicides” collection was inspired by Sofia Coppola’s cult film of the same name, blending its girliness with a Y2K and mermaid aesthetic. Think bow bags, graphic tees, and lot’s of shells. The color palette matched too, with icy pink, cream, and navy blue reigning the runway. Her eponymous label used to be an if-you-know-you-know brand, but this show will earn her a spot amongst the international titans.

LaQuan Smith

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A NYFW staple, LaQuan Smith’s show had the front-row celebrities and toughest critics hollering at the sexy and provocative attire. Saweetie, Mary J Blige, Laverne Cox… all the A-listers came to see what the Queens-born designer had in store— and he did not disappoint. The afterparty at the exclusive and infamous club The Stranger will no doubt double its popularity, with guests including Parris Goebel, Tinashe, FloMilli, and Coco Jones. For Spring 24, Smith delivered an intergalactic glam dream, with sci-fi references from Barbarella and Freddy Mercury. The color palette matched just that, with metallics and colors like fuchsia, aqua, and purple taking center stage. In terms of the garments, we saw NSFW mesh bodysuits, metallic cargo pants, and strapless dresses with the highest slits possible. Smith made this one for the it-girls and confident women.

Sami Miro Vintage

https://www.instagram.com/p/CxQclSLMe_U/

For her NYFW debut, the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund Finalist brought L.A. fashion to the mix. For her ‘Zero Waste’ collection, Miró showcased the upcycled garments that made celebrities like Kendall Jenner, Cardi B, and Rosalia love her brand. Her first show was highly anticipated, a warranted feeling after seeing the skin-baring creations that strolled down the runway. Everything had a DIY element as a tribute to when she reworked her thrift shop finds as a teen, from deconstructed blazers to leather cutout dresses sporting neutral colour palettes filled with cream, black, and grey. But what truly made the show was when she came out to the runway to cut a pair of long black pants into a flowing gown. That’s a big yes from us.

Buci NYC

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The New York label BUCI also finally made its NYFW debut, with a show that proved why its clothes are a must in every It girl’s closet. Despite her brand only being three years old, designer Mishka Ivanivic managed to weave sensuality into her ethereal aesthetic. The collection adorned flowing scarves, chic jackets, and coquette silhouettes, inspiring thoughts of an autumn daydream. The reds, browns, and ivories just contributed more to that end-of-summer feeling, but what made it stand out were the transformable pieces. Tied-up mini dresses becoming long flowing ones, adjustable skirts… BUCI didn’t shy away from highlighting what it’s famous for–and we couldn’t be more glad.

Luar

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The coveted spot of the week was filled by Luar, who closed NYFW by giving fashion what it needs the most right now, Raul Lopez poured his soul into the ‘Socorro’ collection, inspired by the battle between religion and hedonism, he saw in his home country of the Dominican Republic. He showed this by contrasting modesty with sexiness: peekaboo hemlines, skirts that button up to show more or less leg, and shorts with long, billowing tails. The Brooklyn-based designer also merged office attire with party clothes through grey sleek suits, LBD’s, and tan deconstructed pieces. But that’s not all; Lopez found a way to sneak his origins into the collection, filling it with a broken leather reminiscent of the walls of his home. Crowding the runway were also different versions of the Ana bag that threw the brand into the limelight. Guests Lourdes Leon, Gunna, Doechii, and JT can attest to the show’s success.

^{Words by Alexia De Las Herras}

^{Header Image by @sandyliang}

The post These Are The 7 NYFW Shows Everybody’s Talking About! appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Emily Ratajkowski

Emily Ratajkowski attended the off-schedule Marc Jacobs show in an archival look from the designer’s 2014 Autumn/Winter collection. The monochromatic brown look played with texture from the sheer V-neck top to the jacket’s fur collar. She paired the look with a dramatic bob-haircut with a full-fringe that elevated the already chic look even further.

£ 990

Celine Low Boot Triomphe Verneuil

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£ 2600

Celine Chain Shoulder Bag

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£ 212

Sir High-Rise Wool-Blend Pants

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£ 19.99

NA-KD Round Neck Fitted Mesh Top Brown

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£ 4550

Miu Miu Suede Shearling Cropped Jacket

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Julia Fox

Julia Fox is quickly becoming everyone’s favourite for streetstyle looks. Whether she’s doing her weekly shop in her underwear and knee-high denim boots or using duct tape as a top, Julia Fox always provides a daring look, no matter the occasion. And if those are the outfits that Julia wears when running errands then you can only imagine what she pulls out of the bag for Fashion Week. Fox attended the Seks NYFW party in a full leather look from the brand. The black belted micro-mini was paired with an orange crop-top and leather jacket with elaborate feather trim. The look was topped off with a grey hair look with provided a cool contrast to the orange details in the outfit.

£ 163

Jeffrey Campbell Cruella Boot

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£ 372

Seks Holy Skirt Belt

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£ 375

Seks The Sin Top

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£ 8500

Seks Julia’s Croc Print Leather and Mongolian Lamb Jacket

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Ice Spice

Ice Spice made her New York Fashion Week front row debut at the Dion Lee show this week and she definitely earned her place. Wearing a full lace look with Dion Lee’s signature cut-outs, this was the first of her many ‘best dressed’-worthy moments. She paired the modern outfit with a sleek old Hollywood glamour inspired hairdo, a styling decision that perfectly blended two aesthetic binaries.

£ 87

Cernucci Diamond Prong Link Chain

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£ 395

Dion Lee Composite Black Lace Leggings

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£ 139

Dion Lee Composite Black Lace Tank

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£ 693

Dion Lee Composite Black Cut Out Lace Dress

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Camila Mendes

This New York Fashion Week Camila Mendes took the ‘no-pants’ trend to the catwalk. Styled by Molly Dickson (@mollyddickson) Cami attended the Coach show in an oversized leather jacket with black high-waisted underwear and a bralette underneath. The look was accessorised with a pair of studded loafers and a bag. The decision to accessorise the look so simply served to emphasise the lack of outfit, creating an effortless yet intentional feel to the look. All in all, Cami Mendes really proved that less actually is more.

£ 395

Coach Tabby Shoulder Bag

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£ 188.97

Coach Leela Studded Slip-On Loafers

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£ 20

Skims Fits Everybody Full Brief – Onyx

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£ 34

Skims Fits Everybody Triangle Bralette – Onyx

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£ 795

Coach Leather Jacket

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Aweng Chuol

Aweng Chuol attended the RTA x FWRD dinner in a blue Jacquemus dress with an abundance of cut-outs. The slinky knotted dress was paired perfectly with some chunky gold jewellery and sleek black accessories. At times throughout the night Aweng paired the look with a brown fur duster coat that exuded elegance.

£ 11140

YSL Coat In Animal Fur Free

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£ 675

Alexander Wang Nala Crystal Embellished Logo Satin Heel

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£ 286

Luar Leather Top Handle Tote

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£ 400

Jacquemus La Jupe Espelho

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Amelia Gray Hamlin

Amelia Gray Hamlin also attended the RTA X FWRD dinner, she however opted for a much more gothic look for the appearance. She paired her black maxi dress with sheer tights and barely-there heels. In fact, the only non-black element of her look was the large silver cross around her neck.

£ 35

Wolford 10 Nylon Blend Tights

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£ 645

Saint Laurent Amber Patent Leather Sandals

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£ 66

Drippy Iced Gothic Cross

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£ 49.95

NA-KD Front Draped Tie Maxi Dress

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Julia Fox (again)

This would not be a NYFW Streetstyle article without at least two Julia Fox looks in the conversation, and so here she is again. This time Julia was sitting front row at the Dion Lee show, a fashion pairing made in heaven. Julia’s grey hair was the perfect accessory to her edgy look for the fashion brand. Her heavily zipped leather skirt was paired with a matching jacket that starkly contrasted her hyper-feminine feathered heels. However, what stole the show was her explicit graphic tee that read “Starf*cker”, just when we thought she couldn’t get any more iconic.

£ 38

SSENSE Exclusive White ‘Starfucker’ Tank Top

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£ 2610

Dion Lee Leather Biker Jacket

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£ 738

Dion Lee Embellished Leather Skirt

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£ 795

Diesel Shoulder Bag

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£ 835

Saint Laurent Silk Mae Feathered Sandals 60

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Ice Spice and Lil Nas X

The duo that we never knew we needed; Lil Nas X and Ice Spice sat front row at the Coach AW23 show and all eyes were on them. Lil Nas wore a Valentine’s inspired ensemble pairing a vibrant red shearling jacket with a pink turtleneck, distressed jeans, red boots and a bag to match. Ice Spice, however, went down the preppy route wearing a varsity inspired A-line dress that contrasted her extravagant diamond chain.

£ 367

Stand Studio Faux-Leather Cropped Jacket

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£ 136

Diesel Bootcut and Flare Jeans

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£ 1510

Bottega Veneta Fluffy Pump

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£ 475

Russell&Bromley Hold Up Boot

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£ 87.50

Gant Collegiate V-Neck Sweater

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£ 155

Tory Burch Side-Stripe Tennis Skirt

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£ 203

Wolf&Badger Crystal Beads Black Scorpion Brooch

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Leonie Hanne

Leonie Hanne brought all of the drama to the Prabal Gurung show this NYFW. If the show stopping strapless SS23 fuchsia and black Guipure Lace mini dress wasn’t enough, Hanne matched the look with a dramatic pink scarf that wrapped over her hair and then flowed freely behind her. The look was topped off with sheer coloured tights, tulle heels and a simple black bag.

£ 2400

Prada Cleo Brushed Leather Shoulder Bag

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£ 795

Jimmy Choo Aveline 100 Asymmetric-Bow Satin Sandals

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£ 23

Falke Pure Matte 50 Denier Tights

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£ 450

Emani Fuchsia Silk and Wool Shawl

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£ 4660

Giambattista Valli Off The Shoulder Silk Mini Dress

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Charli XCX

Charli XCX performed at the Saks NYFW Party in an enviable double-denim look from Ludovic de Saint Sernin. She paired the monogrammed lace-up dress with a matching denim racer jacket and knee-high combat boots. She accessorised with a black crescent bag and some futuristic sunglasses to make the perfect ‘New York party girl’ look.

£ 175

Bimbaylola S Black Nylon Moon Bag

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£ 835

Off-White Gathered Denim-Jacquard Mini Shirt Dress

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£ 230

Moncler Oval Sunglasses

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£ 1490

Prada Brushed Leather and Re-Nylon Boots

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Words By: Amelia Gregory

The post A Quick Dose Of New York Fashion Week’s Latest Street Style Looks appeared first on Voir Fashion.

“you did it first. always. incredible style with brilliant and meaningful substance. 

I continue to learn from your words, and, all of your extraordinary creations. I will always remember the night we bonded over our mutual love for Yves Saint Laurent. You never failed to surprise and to shock. I am grateful for the moments I got to share with you and Andreas. 

Rest in Peace dear Vivienne, although, somehow peace seems like the wrong word to use.

my deepest sympathies to Andreas and your family.”

But this heartfelt post, is not where Jacobs’ tribute ended, his latest collection was full of punk influences, highlighting Westwood’s impact on the industry and proved the perfect collection to pay homage to her and her work. The show was aptly titled “Heroes”, with a quote from Westwood featured in the show notes:

“Fashion is life-enhancing, and I think it’s a lovely, generous thing to do for other people.”

Kiki Boots

The show was full of Marc Jacobs’ iconic Kiki Boots. The sky-high platform boots were recently re-issued through Jacobs’ Heaven line and were worn in every look in the collection. The boots are reminiscent of Vivienne Westwood’s iconic Gillie platform shoes from the 1993 ‘Anglomania’ collection (yes, the ones responsible for Naomi Campbell’s famous fall at Paris Fashion Week).

Not only did the Kiki boot pay homage to Vivienne Westwood but it also highlighted her influence on the fashion industry as we were reminded of the role she played in popularising the trend that has dominated red-carpets for the past couple of years. 

^{Image Credits: Marc Jacobs}

£ 610

Marc Jacobs Multi Buckle Kiki Boots

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Billowing Silhouttes

One of Vivienne Westwood’s trademarks was her use of billowing silhouettes. Fitted corsets and bustiers were often paired with voluptuous ruched skirts to create elaborate silhouettes full of volume and texture. These designs were replicated by Marc Jacobs through the delicate ruching and folding of fabrics to create flamboyant silhouettes inspired by the punk trend.

^{Image Credits: Marc Jacobs}

“Tit Tops”

In 1981 Vivienne Westwood turned heads when her Pirate collection featured “tit tops”. As the name may give away, these were tops that had twisted fabric on the bust to imitate nipples. Marc Jacobs took inspiration from this in the AW23 collection which featured various looks with heavily structured busts in its tops and dresses. 

_{^{Image Credits: Marc Jacobs}}

Layering

ivienne Westwood may just be the blueprint for successful layering. Her shows always offered an abundance of textures and patterns, proving that more truly is more. Marc Jacobs took this in his stride for the AW23 collection which offered a masterclass in layering. Whether it was a short jacket or floor-length coat, many of the looks in the show advocated for layering, some featured jackets tied around models’ waists, or draped over their arms, but whether they were being worn traditionally or not, the layers were there.

^{Image Credits: Marc Jacobs}

Words By Amelia Gregory

^{Header Image: Marc Jacobs}

The post Marc Jacobs Honours Vivienne Westwood In AW23 Show appeared first on Voir Fashion.

New York Fashion Week started in full swing on Friday 9th September kicking off with designers
Proenza Schouler, No Sesso, Collina Strada, Fendi and Tia Adeola showcasing their
Spring/Summer 2023 ready-to-wear collections.

Got ultimate FOMO? Don’t worry we’ve got you, we’ll be covering everything from each day of
the must-see fashion event from across the globe so you don’t miss a thing. Here’s everything
you might have missed on day one from the city that never sleeps.

Proenza Schouler

Kicking off NYFW were Proenza Schouler designers, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez,
aka NYC’s fashion ‘It’ boys. The pair explored Latin flourishes – inspired by Hernandez’s roots,
fringing, crochet, sheer lace, bell bottoms and polka dots in a display of neutral tones.
Arca, a transgender musician from Venezuela, opened the show in a monochrome look
featuring a loose black tank, a white silk fringe and a bubble skirt.

^{Monica Feudi / Courtesy of Proenza Schouler}

No Sesso

Second on the schedule was No Sesso. Designers Pia Davis and Autumn Randolph created a
dark, utilitarian and provocative mood for spring, emphasising baring skin – opening the show
with a sheer black asymmetric dress, as well as cutout cycling shorts, G-string lines and tiny
bralettes from the collection that left little to the imagination.

^{Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Collina Strada

Collina Strada’s collection displayed designer Hillary Taymour’s signature playfulness and Y2K
influence alongside a strong theme of romanticism and nature. Florals, crochet, organza and
lace fabrics created dreamy gowns, wide-leg trousers and elegant eveningwear in bright hues.
In an ode to nature, the show fittingly took place at the Naval Cemetery Landscape, which
houses a monarch butterfly preserve.

^{Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com}

Fendi

Designed by Marc Jacobs, Fendi’s Resort 2023 show was a fashion production like no other.
Celebrating the 25th anniversary of the Italian label’s Baguette bag, the Hammerstein Ballroom
was transformed into a party with A-list guests adorned in Fendi on the front row including Kim
Kardashian, Sarah Jessica Parker, Naomi Watts and Kate Moss – whose daughter Lila Moss
opened the show.

The collection featured sharp tailoring, oversized fits, long lengths and a bright palette in an
explosion of fashion and colour.

Model icon and face of Fendi, Linda Evangelista, ended the show in a Tiffany blue opera cape
with a silver Baguette bag.

^{Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Tia Adeola

The final show of the day was Tia Adeola which was dedicated to the legacy of one of her
long-lasting inspirations, Manfred Thierry Mugler. In a fresh and neutral colour palette, the
collection was romantic, feminine yet daring with embellishments, curve-hugging bodycons,
distressing and cutouts.

^{Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com}

The NYFW Diaries: Day Two

Day two of New York Fashion Week (Saturday 10th September) saw a jam-packed schedule of
designers’ Spring 2023 ready-to-wear collections including Dion Lee, Tibi, Private Policy and
Marni. We’ve got the ultimate rundown of the runways from day two in the big apple to keep you
in the style know-how.

Altuzarra

Starting off the day, Josephs Altuzarra’s collection was inspired by psychedelic experiences
through trips into nature. The show started with preppy classics including striped shirts, cable
knit sweaters, boxy blazers and mini skirts. It then progressed to more relaxed bohemian style
dresses with prints and tie-dye inspired by the 60s.

^{Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Elena Velez

Dark, provocative and mysterious was the mood of Elena Velez’s show. With references to
BDSM, bondage and sexuality, the neutral cool-toned collection featured latex, strapping,
corsetry and metal structures in the 30 focused looks.

^{Alessandro Viero / Gorunway.com}

Eckhaus Latta

Taking place in a scenic garden, Eckhaus Latta’s show evoked joy and peace following the
turmoil of the past few years. The collection featured a celebration of textures as well as
embellishments, metallic prints, netting and relaxed feminine silhouettes.

^{Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Jason Wu

Soft, subtle and elegant Jason Wu’s neutral collection was delicate with lingerie details, long
lengths, soft fabrics and lines which embodied feminity in a sense of relaxed glamour.

^{Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com}

Victor Glemaud

Taking place in Flipper’s Roller Boogie Palace, Victor Glemaud’s show was a spectacle with a
troop of skaters opening the show dressed in knitted shorts, joggers and ruffle-trimmed onesies.
The collection was inspired by American sportswear, featuring minimalist lines, sheer silk,
crochet, swimwear and monochrome looks in varying lengths.

^{Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Dion Lee

Taking place on an empty floor in a Hudson Yards building with a breathtaking view of the city’s
skyline, Dion Lee’s collection fused the perfect wardrobe for a day-to-night-to-day lifestyle with
cargos, knits and denim contrasting to the rave influences, mini skirts, leather separates and
slinky floor-length dresses. It was chic, sexy and inviting – just like New York.

^{Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com}

Tibi

Celebrating designer Amy Smilovic’s 25th anniversary, Tibi’s collection reflected Smilovic’s
sophisticated and clean personal style resembling 90s minimalism. Oversized tailored suits,
sheer fabrics and low waistlines headed the sensible collection perfect for office wear.

Prabal Gurung

Prabal Gurung’s show was a bold celebration of individuality, sexuality and a sense of
undoneness. The collection featured bright shades, sheer blouses, low waistlines and peeking
lingerie.

^{Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Sergio Hudson

Inspired by the funk, spirit and glamour of music icon Prince, Sergio Hudson’s seasonless
Collection 10 embraced bold colour blocking, loud leopard print, satin slip dresses, power suits
and big shoulder pads in a throwback to the 80s.

^{Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com}

Private Policy

Private Policy’s designer duo Siying Qu and Haoran Li were inspired by the modern-day
equivalents of the story of Noah’s Ark for their latest show. The collection reflected the pair’s
keen eye for clubwear with cutout tops, mini dresses, netting, bikinis as well as contrasting
utilitarian-style baggy denim and cargo pants embodying the ultimate Y2K aesthetic.

^{Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Marni

Marni’s much-awaited NYC debut was made by designer Francesco Risso. With a warm colour
palette inspired by the changing light throughout the day in the Italian countryside, the
minimalistic collection featured an abundance of textures, classically tailored jackets, flared
velvet jeans, knitwear, mini dresses, satin and leather gowns – a wardrobe fit for any occasion.

^{Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com}

The NYFW Diaries: Day Three

The third day of New York Fashion Week (Sunday 11th September) saw a host of must-see
Spring 2023 ready-to-wear shows from designers including Studio 189, Who Decides War, and
Tommy Hilfiger to name a few. Missed it? Don’t worry we’ve all the news from the runway right
here.

Ulla Johnson

Kicking off the day was Ulla Johnson’s show, taking place at the Brooklyn Museum’s Beaux-Arts
Court. The colourful collection focused on occasionwear with relaxed feminine silhouettes and
handicrafts such as crochet, embroidery and looming.

^{Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com}

Studio 189

After starting the show with a dedication to the designer’s late father, Studio 189 designers
Abrima Erwiah and Rosario Dawson presented their entirely print-based collection titled
Mélange. A mixture of techniques including hand batik, weaving, patchwork, indigo dyeing and
basket weaving was used to create African-inspired garments in a celebration of cultures,
individuality, bright colours, textures and prints.

^{Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Sandy Liang

It was definitely back-to-school season at Sandy Liang’s show. Models embodied an ultimate
preppy-chic aesthetic in a neutral cool-toned collection inspired by school uniforms and 90s
minimalism with chunky loafers, satin ballet pumps, tiny bra tops, low waistlines and corsetry in
a relaxed fit.

^{Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com}

Khaite

Moody, dark and edgy was the impression from the Khaite show. Now one of New York’s ‘It’
brands, with a large celebrity and influencer cult following, designer Catherine Holstein had a lot
to live up to and she did not disappoint. The collection featured statement sharp-lined tailored

jackets, fringed body-skimming gowns, peasant skirts, bustiers and low waistlines with plenty of
python prints, sequins and silk fringing.

^{Courtesy of Khaite}

Puppets & Puppets

Puppets & Puppets’ artist-turned-designer Carly Mark has turned her project into a renowned
brand in an impressive four years. Known for her eccentric designs, Carly’s show was inspired
by the film ‘Eyes Wide Shut’ – particularly Nicole Kidman’s savvy independent character. The
collection featured intricate, elegant yet bold eveningwear that would have you standing out
from the crowd.

^{Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com}

Alejandra Alonso Rojas

Alejandra Alonso Rojas’s show was hosted at Verōnika, the upscale restaurant at the
Fotografiska Museum on Park Avenue South. In collaboration with artist Philippine de
Richemont, the collection was elegant, romantic and uplifting with feminine silhouettes and
colour palettes, silky slip dresses, powerful prints, fringing and crochet.

^{Courtesy of Alejandro Alonso Rojas}

Badgley Mischka

Romantic, feminine and elegant was the theme of the Badgley Mischka show. Designer duo
Mark Badgley and James Mischka drew inspiration from the colours of Moroccan cities for an
uplifting collection of eveningwear featuring dreamy gowns, sequin suits, voluminous ruffles,
delicate embroidery and feminine silhouettes.

^{Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Barragán

Edgy, rebellious, scandalous and sexy. Victor Barragán’s niche show was held in a reimagined
festival space surrounded by chaos – litter, bottles, graffiti and fake dollar bills. Featuring only
white models, the show was a nod to white culture and American capitalism with dollar bills,
briefcases, ties and shirts starring in the collection. The collection also had strong utilitarian
elements with leather, netting and tape as well as a rave culture theme with micro mini dresses
and low-slung waistlines.

^{Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com}

Who Decides War

Bringing the chilled Caribbean vibes to New York, designer duo Everard Best and Téla D’Amore
were inspired by their roots for their latest collection, unofficially named ‘Underwater’ in a nod to
climate change. The predominantly menswear collection featured bold colours and casual
streetwear with an edge.

^{Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Tommy Hilfiger

In a bid to reimagine the label’s signature preppy style, Tommy Hilfiger’s latest collection
featured sophisticated sharp suits, tailored trousers and smart dresses in neutral shades perfect
for the office.

^{Courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger}

Luar

Cool, sharp and powerful – very New York, was the essence of the highly anticipated Luar show
held at the end of the day at The Shed. Designer Raúl Lopez was inspired for the collection by
his family gatherings as a child growing up in a Dominican family in Brooklyn. The line featured
both men’s and womenswear but held a strong masculine influence throughout with sharp lines,
enlarged shoulders, oversized fits, suits and crocodile skin full-length coats.

^{Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

The NYFW Diaries: Day Four

Monday 12th September hosted day four of New York Fashion Week with must-see Spring 2023
ready-to-wear shows such as Coach, Kim Shui and LaQuan Smith which provided a
much-needed abundance of colour to the greying city sky. Here’s everything you need to know
from across the globe.

Carolina Herrera

The day started joyously at The Plaza Hotel for Carolina Herrera’s show. Designer Wes Gordon
put on a cheerful display of voluminous frocks with beachy stripes and floral prints in sunshine
yellow and sky blue.

^{Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Veronica Beard

Veronica Beard also brought the sunshine to the big city with bright pastel shades and seaside
stripes in her tailored collection featuring sharp angle suit co-ords, mini skirts and flowing
sundresses perfect for a spring getaway.

^{Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com}

Maryam Nassir Zadeh

Maryam Nassir Zadeh kept it neutral and chic for her collection with parallels to 90s minimalism
and lingerie details creating a natural sense of undoneness and unapologetic femininity.

^{Madison Voelkel / Courtesy of Maryam Nassir Zadeh}

Coach

With a star-studded guest list, Coach channelled a moody punk look with a preppy edge for the
latest collection featuring hardcore leather jackets, splattered knitwear and mini girly gingham
tea dresses.

^{Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com}

Bibhu Mohapatra

Keeping it classy, Bibhu Mohapatra’s collection showcased Oscar-worthy elegant gowns in
neutral tones with lace, sequins, silks and delicate embroidery.

^{Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Frederick Anderson

Fredrick Anderson added a dramatic flare to eveningwear in his sophisticated collection insisting
of satin slip dresses, fringed crochet gowns, enlarged peplum tops and tailored trousers in a
bright colour palette.

^{Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Priscavera

Priscavera’s show set New York temperatures soaring with designer Prisca Vera Franchetti’s
Y2K-influenced collection with an assortment of metallic micro skirts, tiny bra tops, low-slung
trousers and see-through mesh dresses.

^{Daniele Oberrauch}

Kim Shui

Kim Shui’s decadent collection was fit for royalty with rich golds, silvers and silks with delicate
embroidery for an elegant selection of oriental-influenced eveningwear gowns.

^{Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com}

LaQuan Smith

Presenting the final show of the day, LaQuan Smith was well worth the wait with his electric
collection of sexy eveningwear featuring shimmering sequin gowns, low-slung skirts and daring
cutouts in a scandalous display which fused Y2K with stylish glamour.

^{Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com}

The NYFW Diaries: Day Five

Day five of Fashion Week in the big city (Tuesday 13th September) saw a host of colourful
shows from the likes of Tory Burch, Brandon Maxwell, Christian Cowan and Gabriela Hearst.
Missed out? Don’t worry we’ve got you covered with the rundown of the top runway looks from
all the designers’ Spring 2023 ready-to-wear collections – don’t say we don’t spoil you.

Snow Xue Gao

Starting off the day, Snow Xue Gao brought ultimate print power with a selection of intricate,
boldly-coloured Japanese-influenced mini dresses, skirts and jumpsuits perfect for a relaxed
Spring getaway.

^{Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Brandon Maxwell

Known for his glamorous New York-style partywear, Brandon Maxwell opted for a more subtle
approach for his latest collection with a sophisticated take on the Y2K style. As the sound of
birds chirping played throughout, models showcased mini dresses, relaxed wide-leg jumpsuits
and tailored oversized blazers with pastel hues, glitterball sequins and silky satins ready for a
night out in the city that never sleeps.

^{Monica Feudi / Courtesy of Brandon Maxwell}

Parsons MFA

Parsons School of Design delivered a spectacle of a whooping 102 abstract looks made by
talented students which certainly made a show to remember. It was mad, chaotic yet
undoubtedly beautiful in a celebration which pushed the limits of fashion. Although maybe not
exactly wearable, the collection included extreme distressing and exaggerated proportions as
well as a multitude of techniques, textures and colours. A* marks!

^{Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com}

Adam Lippes

Inspired by his Egyptian travels, Adam Lippes’ collection featured an array of relaxed
silhouettes, ruffles, pleats, volume and intricate prints in soft tones.

^{Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com}

Gabriela Hearst

Want to feel like a Greek goddess? Look to Gabriela Hearst’s latest heavenly collection of
golden gilded eveningwear featuring a feminine array of full-length body-skimming gowns,
tailored suits, silk knit dresses, gold thread embroidery and bold prints in warm tones. As if the
show couldn’t get more divine, a gospel choir sang throughout along the side of the runway,
creating an atmosphere of pure bliss.

^{Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com}

Bach Mai

Bach Mai drew inspiration from the trapeze line Yves Saint Laurent introduced at Christian Dior
in 1958, with the collection focusing on creating shape. It consisted of voluminous, pleated,
lengthy skirts in a selection of smart tweeds, foiled metallic materials and sheer floaty fabrics.

^{Amber Gray / Courtesy of Bach Mai}

Adeam

Adeam’s designer Hanako Maeda brought the sunshine to New York with a holiday-ready
collection of feminine sundresses adorned with flamboyant ruffles and puff sleeves in a selection
of bright colours and ditsy prints.

^{Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com}

Bevza

Bevza’s show held an important message, inspired by designer Svitlana Bevza’s experience as
one of the over 10 million Ukrainians who fled their homes when Russia invaded the country
over six months ago. Starting with a moment of silence for Ukrainian lives lost during the war,

the show presented a muted collection produced by an entirely Ukrainian team featuring
utilitarian leather garments, breast-plated gowns and distressing which was also inspired by one
of the biggest issues affecting Ukraine right now: the wheat crisis.

^{Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com}

Maisie Wilen

Maisie Wilen brought a sense of the eccentric with a collection featuring psychedelic geometric
prints, provocative catsuits and Y2K micro skirts and baby tees.

^{Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com}

Peter Do

Cool, sophisticated and edgy was the impression of Peter Do’s collection consisting of
masculine silhouettes, sharp-cut jackets, loose-fitting shirt dresses and straight-fit midi skirts in a
selection of leather, chiffon and mesh fabrics.

^{Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com}

Jonathan Simkhai

Jonathan Simkhai kept it fresh with a day-to-night collection fit for a hustling New Yorker. The
show featured sharp tailored suits ready for businesses as well as sultry and sparkling evening
dresses for a night out in the big city.

^{Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Tory Burch

Sleek and streamlined, Tory Burch’s collection was inspired by 90s wardrobes with low-slung
waistlines, masculine silhouettes, mesh tops with lingerie peaking through, relaxed tailored
jackets and trousers for the ultimate cool city-girl aesthetic.

^{Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com}

Christian Cowan

Christian Cowan ended the day with a bang. The show, inspired by his youthful nights in
London, was a carnival of bright bold colours, loud prints and exaggerated proportions for a wild
and provocative collection of partywear.

^{Daniele Oberrauch}

The NYFW Diaries: Day Six

The sixth and final day of New York Fashion Week (Wednesday 14th September) finished the
event in style with must-see Spring 2023 ready-to-wear collections from Michael Kors, Tom
Ford, Batsheva, Aliétte and many more.

Missed it? Don’t worry we’ve covered every day of Fashion Week to keep you up-to-date in the
fashion game.

Batsheva

At Ben’s Kosher Deli, Batsheva Hay started off the day switching it up, moving away from her
usual “Laura Ashley” “frumpy garments” (she told Vogue) towards a sexy 70s-inspired collection
featuring more skin, PVC dresses, low-slung midi skirts, micro minis and crop tops yet there still
remained a strong array of girly ditsy prints.

^{Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com}

Michael Kors

Sophisticated, sexy, sleek and streamlined was the vibe of Michael Kors’ day-to-night collection
inspired by American 70s fashion icons. The show featured low-slung waistlines, daringly high
slit skirts, cool wide-leg tailored trousers and dazzling floor-length gowns – a wardrobe perfect
for the bustling bright-light city.

^{Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Deveaux

Making a return to the runway after three years, Deveaux’s designer Andrea Tsao took
inspiration from workwear for a collection featuring oversized masculine silhouettes, tailored
shirts and trousers, cool mesh fabrics and trendy cargos fit for the office.

^{Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com}

Kenneth Nicholson

Unlike his usual romantic themes, Kenneth Nicholson also found inspiration in corporate office
life, with his show taking place in an office building in the Financial District as the sounds of
clanging keyboard keys and printers welcomed the guests. The collection was a journey through
a typical working day – beginning with sleepy pyjama-clad models, followed by sharp tailored
suits, newspaper-print garments and slinky ravewear.

^{Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com}

Aliétte

Aliétte designer Jason Rembert brought the fairytale to New York in his show presented at the
charming vintage Georgia Room in Manhattan with the gentle sounds of birds chirping over
whimsical versions of R&B and rap tracks including Khia’s 2001 hit ‘My Neck, My Back’. Nature
played a large influence with grassy textures, slinky satin dresses and voluminous gowns fit for
a princess.

^{Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Wiederhoeft

Jackson Wiederhoeft certainly didn’t hold back with his punk-inspired, eccentric, rebellious
designs featuring a range of extravagant garments with bright colours, prints, exaggerated
proportions, provocative mesh materials and a distinct dramatic flare.

^{Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com}

Theophilio

Theophilio’s designer Edvin Thompson brought a sense of nostalgia with a sexy yet comfortable
take on the Y2K style of his youth. The collection featured trendy baby tees, low-slung waistline

trousers and sequined mini dresses in an array of mesh, metallic, high-vis and leather materials
fit for a throwback club night.

^{Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com}

Markarian

A state of serenity transcended on Markarian’s runway, presenting designer Alexandra O’Neill’s
collection of romantic feminine dresses with sweetheart necklines, off-the-shoulder fits, flowing
hemlines and soft shades.

^{Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Willy Chavarria

Willy Chavarria took us to church with his Catholic-themed menswear collection featuring
exaggerated proportions, oversized fits, sharp suits, lengthy skirts, Peter Pan collars and casual
jerseys.

^{Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com}

Tom Ford

With the pressure of closing Fashion Week, Tom Ford did not disappoint. A room packed with
celebs, including Madonna, Chris Rock and Ciara, witnessed the dazzling display of his
signature sexy style. The collection featured sultry black lace lingerie, hardcore leather jackets,
sharp suits and blinding sequins gowns made for the bright-light big city.

^{Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Words by Emily Hemsley

^{Header graphics by Jing Toh}

The post The New York Fashion Week Diaries appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Raw Glamour

Maximalism, at least for the time being, appears to be out. Untouched skin has been spotted all over from Prozena Schouler to Kate Spade. Natural features such as undereye bags, freckles and tans are all being spotlighted and enhanced, and it’s clear now we are moving away from the flawless IG baddie craze towards something a little fresher. Also adding to this look is the resurgence of an old fashion favourite, wet hair. The sleek look, especially in collaboration with untouched skin, has been sported all over this season from 11 Honoré to Peter Do to Caroline Herrera and it looks like this trend will be a mainstay way into the winter months – so get your caster oil ready.  

Pop Of Colour 

Playful pops of colour, whether that be bold block eyeshadow or sleek neon liner, have been firmly à la mode all of this year – and it doesn’t seem to be going anywhere anytime soon. Purples, turquoise, hot pinks and royal blues have been featured around the clock this season on the runway for the likes of Alice + Olivia and Prabal Gurung; but we have to give a special shoutout to Marni’s rainbow foreheads for the coolest use so far, kudos to make up artist @yad1m.

Sleek Buns

Slicked back buns with side partings *gasp* were a staple this fashion week from Christin Siriano’s Hepburn-inspired style to No Sesso’s spiky futurism. The most surprising part of this trend is, of course, the revival of the side parting which had previously been doomed to cheuginess by Gen Z – but we’re here to tell you that it is in fact alive and well. The look can be worn in a chic, classic manner with a low bun and gelled back fringe waves or spiked up in the back for a cyberpunk twist.

Chromecore

Chrome has been making waves for some time now and is set to be the coolest nail trend of the season. Spotted on the catwalk for the likes of Rebecca Minkoff and Tommy Hilfiger, the lustrous look is experimental and chic in equal measure and will definitely set you apart from the crowd. More mature than its glitter counterparts but more youthful than a basic mani – this style is an effortless way to elevate any look this fall.

Grunge Revival 

The 90’s always seem to be influencing one thing or another, and the grunge renaissance is truly in full effect this season. Dark, lived-in eye makeup worn alongside natural skin and eyebrows were seen at Pat Bo, Jason Wu, Tommy Hilfiger and Altuzarra. This classic cool girl makeup is perfect for looking effortlessly fashionable on a night out with only a few products. Grungy hair and accessories were also seen across the runway from twisted mohawks to – our personal favourite – facial piercings at the Rebecca Minkoff show. With punk, grunge and glamour set to be favourites going into the winter, getting a smokey eye look down is the best tip we can give you to be on trend this season.

Words by Giuliana Zamudio-Lopez

_{Graphics By Arundhati Das}

The post The Beauty Trends Taking Over New York Fashion Week appeared first on Voir Fashion.

PROENZA SCHOULER

Waterfalls flowed down the marble walls of the early 20th-century Beaux-Arts building that showcased Proenza Schouler’s latest collection at New York Fashion Week.

In the Hall des Lumières, located in the old Emigrant Industrial Savings Bank Building, designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCullough developed a collection evoking their personal histories: “the sensuous and fiery qualities of Lazaro’s Latin roots coupled with the pragmatism and grit of Jack’s American experience blend to create a narrative at once effervescent and urban” the release states.

There was an unparalleled sense of freedom and clarity in this season’s collection as the designers opted for fluid materials roaming freely and a surge of ruffles cascading around the body, breaking into dynamic fringes that exaggerate the movement. With seamless silhouettes that resembled a second skin, Proenza Schouler emphasised its craftsmanship in the details; dramatic sleeves and pant bottoms ceded the limelight, reminiscent of traditional flamenco clothing.

Liberty is the universal theme of this collection, as the sheer skin-bearing designs allowed the natural curves of a woman’s body to define the garment itself.

_{Credit: Monica Feudi / Courtesy of Proenza Schouler}

NO SESSO

Wearable works of art. No Sesso displayed a collection of opulent black sheer chiffon garments and ruched nylon dresses. This year simplicity was at the root of Davis and Randolph’s designs. The emphasis on skin was a running theme as models walked on the catwalk with cut-out pieces and low-hanging bralettes. There was a shaded mood to No Sesso’s spring collection, with dark colours dominating the runway.

_{Credit: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

REBECCA MINKOFF

Angels with an edge come to mind on the runway of Rebecca Minkoff; the designer’s clean palette is synonymous with the warm weather of spring. Ivory garments encrusted with silver studs and matching accessories accompanied the models strutting down the runway, looking ready for a concert.

Those looks showed how even subtle details can really stand out on a single-colour outfit. It seems as though the clothes were treated as a blank canvas for the designer to highlight the silver embellishments. Embroidered sleeves seem taller; cut-outs are more intimate, and tailoring takes on both classic and casual forms. 

Minkoff’s designs cleverly blended rock star vibes with traditional spring streetwear- the biker-style jackets with structured lining hung over the models and were paired with form-fitting bottoms. This season denim was a preferred material for Minkoff’s collection.

COLLINA STRADA   

Comprising a hazy pastel colour palette, earth tones and unconventional fabrics like weed, crochet and knitwear combined to make billowing silhouettes. Collina Strada presented an enchanting runway drawing on elements from nature. 

“The world is changing, and so are you. You dress for the mess — print on print, layer on layer” when Collina Strada described her last year’s summer spring collection in New York. This year is no different, as the designer embraces the same chaotic energy in her styles for her spring 2023 ready-to-wear collection. Vibrant colours, bold patterns, and themes of nature and sustainability punctuated the runway. The designer is known for her eclectic style and mixing of fabrics. As the models walked in their layers of mismatched brightly coloured clothing, it was the floral patterns that took centre stage.

Mint-green dresses finished off with touches of pinks, yellows and browns gave a sense of a garden fairy theme. The designer’s final look, a Cinderella-style ballgown with tulle flower detailing, stole the limelight.

_{Credit: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com}

FE NOEL

The pieces featured in the Fe Noel runway served elegance, from body-hugging silk corsets and dresses to ruched sleeves. This Brooklyn designer’s works evoke the fashion of the Renaissance. This armlet sleeve might become a fashion trend for spring 2023, and Fe Noel’s was blooming with roses.

Yet, it was Noel’s final outfit that made a statement. Dubbed “The Dre$$”, the style was a corseted strapless gown with a ruffled petticoat, topped with a signature Fe Noel robe with voluminous sleeves and a 16-foot cathedral train — and it’s all made out of (artificial) money — $1.6 million to be exact. The dress symbolises economic hardship and highlights the 30% retirement savings gap between men and women.

With this dress, Fe Noel wanted to send a message about austerity measures and the disproportionate job and income losses suffered by women during the pandemic because of existing gender inequalities.

A beautiful show with a meaningful message.

_{Credit: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

FENDI

This is not just any handbag, but the beloved Baguette from Fendi, named after the French bread loaf and carried under the arm of discerning buyers for 25 years. On Friday night, the Fendi show celebrated the bag’s long-lasting fame and its birthday.

The collection displayed 53 looks, which seemed to be split into segments. In the first part of the show, models walked the catwalk sporting streetwear looks in neutral tones. The outfits looked to be inspired by spring/summer attire.

The second part displayed earthy tones as the models walked in brown and yellow autumnal jackets. Accessories were not limited at the Fendi show. Many of the looks were finished with boldly coloured beanies, knitted gloves and, of course, the well-known baguette bag.

As the show transitioned into its final phase, darker tones made their way onto the catwalk as the models appeared one by one in hues of navy. In a unique collaboration with Kim Jones, Marc Jacobs reimagined the Italian luxury brand with his personal touch. As a result, the collection features outsized proportions and bright New York City neons. The show ended with white winter looks featuring lime accents. The final set of models all wore oversized fur hats covering most of their faces.

_{Credit: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

ELENA VELEZ PATBO 

At the heart of Elena Velez’s brand are family-run workshops and calm Wisconsin waters. Romantic dresses consist of smooth creams and sheer blacks that contrast sharply with the stainless steel bars she moulds into corsets and bra tops. The designer is known to have a unique style that is raw, industrial, and sensual. 

Elena Velez specializes in making high fashion from scraps. The designer draws inspiration from her childhood, travelling across lakes on industrial ships. She often uses materials such as ship sails, rope from boats, and discarded metal in her pieces. This collection eludes to her childhood memories as the shapes of flowing waves are evoked in scrunched dresses wrapping around the models, taking their form. Formal structures and linings are prevalent in Velez’s collection. An off-white corset dress and white and black skin-bearing dress take the appearance of a ship’s sails and netting. 

While always remaining delicate and feminine, there are clear references to ships and construction sites within her designs. 

Bringing gorgeous fashion to the public through a deconstructed, anti-beauty approach. 

_{Credit: Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

ECKHAUS LATTA 

A harpist’s elegant strums accompanied models entering the stage wearing ultra-tonal textural knits, breezy see-through netted dresses, elaborate macrame-style tank tops, as well as beaded ornamentation on shirts and countless bubble-inspired statement makers. Eckhaus Latta’s collection – named after its designers’ visionaries Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta – quickly conveyed its message to its audience: Their style marches to its own drum.

There are 30 looks presented in Eckhaus Latta’s show, with unexpected yet unique textures standing out. This collection, however, is most notable for the knitted ensembles printed with Matthew Underwood’s artworks, a dear friend of Latta’s who died in 2019. A series of ribboned and foil assemblages exemplified Underwood’s legacy – one marked by a penchant for blending audio, electronic, and performance art.

_{Credit: Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

JASON WU 

The elegant and minimalist aesthetic of Jason Wu continues for spring 2023. 

In addition to his appreciation of craftsmanship and minimalist aesthetics, he is known for his timeless wardrobe essentials. This season was no different, from enchanting contemporary garments to red carpet-worthy gowns and midi-length tea dresses. A light and soft collection, the palette was mostly subdued apart from sparks of gold occasionally appearing. Liberating looks graced the opening of Wu’s show as the sheer garments wrapped around the models’ bodies, leaving little to the imagination. It was all about spaghetti straps and lingerie details, with streamers hanging from the straps of neat sheaths. Blooming floral patterns designed by the artist Leonardo Pucci disrupted the collection’s delicate aesthetic and added some edge to Jason Wu’s traditionally colder and paler palette. 

_{Credit: Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com}

VICTOR GLEMAUD 

A beach vibe radiated from Victor Glemaud’s collection. Despite the collection’s limited colour palette, each look had its own unique characteristics. The Haitian-American designer’s pieces were inspired heavily by Harbour Island; highlights of the show included black sheer cover-ups, a pink jumpsuit with keyhole cutouts with a stunning cape attached, and vibrant bikinis. There is also something noteworthy about the accessories. Various looks were paired with locally made “Rita Raffia” hats, which added a touch of elegance to the outfit. Using Jimmy Choo shoes in either flats or high heels, models strutted in David Yurman anklets subtly glistening. 

_{Credit: Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

DION LEE

The master of structured lines and clean cuts. Once again, Dion Lee’s collection subverts the conventional notions of femininity and masculinity as the male models walked the runway in clothes that -at times- featured traditionally feminine attributes such as a beautiful pleated mini skirt with boots that stopped just below the knee. In control is the mood that fits this moment. The designer’s collection is clean-cut and minimalistic. Each model walks with a stern look and almost provoked expression, which perfectly matches the vibe of the clothes. 

_{Credit: Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com}

ALICE + OLIVIA

Fiery. Floral. Denim. Disco. These are the word that comes to mind in Alice + Olivia’s 2023 collection. 24 looks are split into sections, each section containing three vibrant looks that use a similar colour palette; starting with blues, the designers created a beautiful dress that looks like it came out of a fairy tale—continuing into colours of desire, section two features red and white ensembles that are giving us business chic. Reaching the mid-section of their show, we feel as though we have been thrown into an ocean made entirely of flowers; floods of greens and pinks surround us. After the final floral outfit disappears, denim takes over the show. It’s clear that this design duo love to break the rules with the vast choice of fabrics and patterns that are displayed in this year’s collection. From garden party to disco-tech, the last set of outfits shone from a sparkling minidress to a black and white ballgown with a diamond-encrusted belt. 

_{Credit: Courtesy of Alice + Olivia}

PRABAL GURUNG

To those who are “often watched and monitored, scrutinized but unseen”,- Prabal Gurung’s collection was an ode to those whose rights are often taken advantage of. Models walked in vivid neon colours, metallics, and bondage looks on a stark white runway that made the designer’s garments stand out. The collection included a pink and red mini dress, jet black bodysuits with draped chiffon skirts, a white blazer over sheer chiffon trousers and an intricately detailed bralette. Stand-out pieces included a pair of sheer cobalt blue trousers which was paired with a chartreuse long-sleeve blouse that opened to reveal a black bralette that moved as the model walked on the runway. A lace embroidered dress that resembled a blooming peony flower and chiffon ballgowns; after witnessing these beautiful designs, the designer was tearful as he walked on the runway after his pieces of artwork, dedicated to all those unheard. 

_{Credit: Photographer: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

SERGIO HUDSON

South Carolina designer Sergio Hudson, an emerging name in the fashion industry, has once again captured our gaze with his classic silhouettes. His collection continued similar techniques seen in his fall 2022 collection of bold, eye-catching prints, notably animal prints and feminine suits in calming pastel hues with a timeless appeal. Elegant silhouettes have become a staple for the designer’s brand. It is Hudson’s skill to construct feminine, structured pieces that complement the shape of women. 

_{Credit: Photos taken from Harpers Bazaar Spain}

Words by Chanelle Jassim

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