Marc Jacobs, ever off-calendar, shared its AW23 collection at Park Avenue Armory ahead of the upcoming New York Fashion Week last weekend. This followed a three-year fashion week hiatus, and the designer returned with a heartfelt tribute to late designer Vivienne Westwood. Westwood passed away in late December 2022, leaving the fashion world to mourn one of their most revolutionary designers. Upon her passing, Marc Jacobs took to Instagram to pay homage to the fashion icon, he shared:
“you did it first. always. incredible style with brilliant and meaningful substance.
I continue to learn from your words, and, all of your extraordinary creations. I will always remember the night we bonded over our mutual love for Yves Saint Laurent. You never failed to surprise and to shock. I am grateful for the moments I got to share with you and Andreas.
Rest in Peace dear Vivienne, although, somehow peace seems like the wrong word to use.
my deepest sympathies to Andreas and your family.”
But this heartfelt post, is not where Jacobs’ tribute ended, his latest collection was full of punk influences, highlighting Westwood’s impact on the industry and proved the perfect collection to pay homage to her and her work. The show was aptly titled “Heroes”, with a quote from Westwood featured in the show notes:
“Fashion is life-enhancing, and I think it’s a lovely, generous thing to do for other people.”
Kiki Boots
The show was full of Marc Jacobs’ iconic Kiki Boots. The sky-high platform boots were recently re-issued through Jacobs’ Heaven line and were worn in every look in the collection. The boots are reminiscent of Vivienne Westwood’s iconic Gillie platform shoes from the 1993 ‘Anglomania’ collection (yes, the ones responsible for Naomi Campbell’s famous fall at Paris Fashion Week).
Not only did the Kiki boot pay homage to Vivienne Westwood but it also highlighted her influence on the fashion industry as we were reminded of the role she played in popularising the trend that has dominated red-carpets for the past couple of years.
Image Credits: Marc Jacobs
Billowing Silhouttes
One of Vivienne Westwood’s trademarks was her use of billowing silhouettes. Fitted corsets and bustiers were often paired with voluptuous ruched skirts to create elaborate silhouettes full of volume and texture. These designs were replicated by Marc Jacobs through the delicate ruching and folding of fabrics to create flamboyant silhouettes inspired by the punk trend.
Image Credits: Marc Jacobs
“Tit Tops”
In 1981 Vivienne Westwood turned heads when her Pirate collection featured “tit tops”. As the name may give away, these were tops that had twisted fabric on the bust to imitate nipples. Marc Jacobs took inspiration from this in the AW23 collection which featured various looks with heavily structured busts in its tops and dresses.
Image Credits: Marc Jacobs
Layering
ivienne Westwood may just be the blueprint for successful layering. Her shows always offered an abundance of textures and patterns, proving that more truly is more. Marc Jacobs took this in his stride for the AW23 collection which offered a masterclass in layering. Whether it was a short jacket or floor-length coat, many of the looks in the show advocated for layering, some featured jackets tied around models’ waists, or draped over their arms, but whether they were being worn traditionally or not, the layers were there.
Image Credits: Marc Jacobs
Words By Amelia Gregory
Header Image: Marc Jacobs
