We have survived the bi-annual shots of influencers jaywalking in their street style outfits, and models' posse-pics on Instagram as New York Fashion Week comes to fruition.
And this year it seems that it was the smaller brands rather than the fashion Maisons making all the noise. Models were painted glittering green at Gypsy Sport, Pyer Moss presented a love-letter to 70’s glam rock, and Tomo Koizum had spectators peering over railings to gaze over their signature tulle creations with the help of dressers.
Kim Shui’s collection graced the NY Fashion Week runway at the latter end of the week. Her Spring 2020 ready-to-wear collection solidifies her well-deserved place on the Forbes Under 30 Art & Style List and challenges the idea that she isn’t just an Insta-famous designer popular because of Kylie Jenner’s interest in the brand.
What is unique about Shui’s work is how she seamlessly blends her Chinese heritage and her American upbringing. She splices together qipao-style blouses and dresses with unconventional brocade fabric. In another piece, she manages to pull off a top made in Ming Dynasty style-fabric and pairs it with white trousers.
Shui manages to intertwine her two contrasting cultural identities with the fashion she creates and is definitely a designer to follow.
Sally LaPointe’s SS20 collection points to a potential trend for the next season. Her most recent collection effortlessly displays the art of one-tone dressing and provides some lessons on how we can pull it off too.
Pink on Pink on Pink was the standout of the collection, layering pastel-pink pieces on top of one another. Pink hats, pink coats, pink fur and pink shoes are just some of the items showcased on the runway and work beautifully pieced together in the same outfit.
Bold and bright neon orange looks were also hard-to-miss. LaPointe pairs together fully sequined flowy pants with orange mesh. The sequins catch the light, and the model catches every eye in the room.
The Anti-Fashion Week Show:
Gypsy Sport is daring to be different. How can you not be when you paint models green.
A casual glance at the looks served with their NYFW collection shows just how wildly creative some designers can be. Gypsy Sport is consciously unconventional – equally in terms of the clothing, makeup, hair and even models showcased.
Regarding fashion, what GS does differently is their conscious attempt to look imperfect. The co-ords are unified by the bright blue, yellow and pink flowers that appear loosely hand-sewn on with yellow embroidery thread. This patchwork goes against what is typically expected in fashion – neatness, perfection, machine-like finishing’s. Hence, Rio Urbine’s collection stays true to the sustainable and handmade themes he commits to for his fashion.
There is a realness and high-energy vibe to GS’s work. The makeup featured in SS20 show consists of black lip liner paired with glistening lip-gloss, taking a fascinating spin on gothic makeup and perhaps creating a trend-to-see.
What can, perhaps be most appreciated by GS is a gender-fluid approach to fashion and its roster of models who do not fit the archetype of NWFW. People of colour, transgender models, models of various sizes and body-types all have a place of the GS runway, and that is incredibly refreshing to see. Gypsy Sport is the shape of things to come.
Words by Hena Sharma
Graphics by Sasha Green