Everything You Need To Know About The Moschino Pre-Fall 2020 NYC Show
Jeremy Scott has never been one for dialling it down when it comes to his collections, so it was no surprise that the invitations to Moschino’s Pre-Fall 2020 show in New York took the form of a supersized Moschino Metro card – a precursor for what was to be at once an overt celebration of maximalism and an ode to the city that never sleeps. For the Milanese brand’s first New York show, Jeremy Scott transformed an empty subway carriage at the New York Transmit Museum into a runway, with front- row guests perching themselves on the subway cart seats to witness up close and personal the brand’s Pre-Fall 2020 Women’s and Autumn/Winter 2020 Men’s collections.
‘I wanted to offer a little bit of everything. A round-the-clock set of ensembles for city girls and guys who aren't afraid to go from the ballroom to the back room, then watch the sun come up over the East River,’ Scott said in a press release. An open love letter to the city, where he studied Fashion Design at the Pratt Institute, the show paid homage to the eclectic mix of city subcultures through a collection packed with East Coast attitude. Exploring every nuance, the collection offered something for everyone, from baggy tracksuits and dad-style sneakers inspired by 90s Harlem street style, to a take on tweed for the uptown working woman – though not without a dose of edge, with chunky gold chain accoutrements appearing in copious quantities.
Each of the 75 looks worked to form a sartorial assortment of myriad prints and textures, with denim corsets, 80s chain-print, punkish leather and fur stoles aplenty. But beyond the fleets of outrageous trappings that populated the runway, there was also a surprising amount of wonderfully wearable ensembles, from a classic camel trench coat to a series of silver evening gowns dripping with embellishment.
Moschino’s proud tradition of logomania reigned supreme, with the brand’s logo brazenly woven through the collection, on hats, bags and giant gold chains. XXL handbags and backpacks seemed to suggest that the tides are turning away from 2019’s tiny purse trend (see Jacquemus’ Le Sac Chiquito) in favour of bags that we can actually fit everything we need into. Supersized puffer jackets and baseball hats also abounded, with an abundance of blown-up proportions serving as evidence of Scott’s unfading mastery of maximalism. Lighters served as clutch bags, while giant safety pins held together tracksuits converted into cocktail dresses and ball gowns. A celebration of the audacity and versatility of New York City which joyfully played with the Moschino codes of irony that echo through all of Scott’s collections.
Words by Ruby McAuliffe
Graphics by Katie Janes