Juicy Couture is back and it’s back in true Y2K style with an unexpected nod to the ever iconic
80s. With their 2021 Spring/Summer revival campaign a huge success, Autumn/Winter is here to
take a trip down memory lane right back through to the brands heyday, unveiling classic velour
sets and diamanté encrusted underwear, Juicy is here to add just a touch of ice. The collection
launches today, right in time for the cooler months ahead.

So what’s new this season and what will you find from the collection? Taking athletic influence
from the rink, head designer, Amy Gibson reveals how the vintage 80s undertones of figureskating outfits from the past were a huge inspiration for the collection. In the hope of creating cool
and contemporary pieces for the AW21 season, the infamous tracksuit set, popularised by the
likes of Paris Hilton and Britney Spears, can be found in an updated style and sported in cooltoned shades like baby blue, turquoise and purple, alongside sweats plastered with the royal
Juicy logo. A nostalgic look back to the era that gave Juicy its name, monogrammatic prints have
made an appearance, while a tribute to the now provides graphic print tees and all over tie-dye,
proving Juicy Couture is just as juicy now, as it was back then.

Taking just the right amount from the early 2000s (the style and vibe were supreme …) but sticking
with the diversity they were praised for in their last drop (… the inclusivity was not), the AW21
collection goes from size XXS all the way through to XL and the campaign rightfully celebrates
women of each and every size, shape and race – how 2021 of them!

If you’re ready to channel your inner Tonya Harding (we certainly are!) then what are you waiting
for? Shop the collection here.

£ 70.00

Juicy Couture Blue Velour Diamante Hoodie

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£ 55

Juicy Couture Tie Dye Crop Top

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£ 55

Juicy Couture Wide Leg Bottoms

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£ 35

Juicy Couture Pink Girlfriend Tee

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Words by Ella Citron-Thompkins

The post Round 2: Juicy Couture’s Latest Collection Is Here And It Is Icy appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Seoul Fashion Week packed a colourful punch as it rounded off this month’s string of seasonal shows. With shows taking place under strict quarantine safety measures, the events of the week were devoid of audiences and instead live streamed via the show’s website and YouTube channel.

One of the most exciting changes to take place with this year’s Fall/Winter shows in Seoul was the change of scenery – and no, we’re not talking about the digital takeover. With the pandemic enforcing the closure of many major tourist attractions, designers were encouraged to stage their shows in these empty spaces for the first time in Fashion Week history. Models were seen strutting through the likes of the National Museum of Korea and the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, as well as the Han Riverside Park and the Oil Tank Culture Park.

With an array of talented designers taking to the virtual runway for another week, it seems that fashion has found a new rhythm befitting the post-pandemic age. Seoul Fashion Week was another treat for the fashion-hungry, and ultimately did not disappoint. Read on to see some of the designers and brands that caught our eye this season.

Oct31

Headed by designer Sunil Kim, Oct31 seeks to express the classic value of traditional fashion in womenswear; the result is a FW21 Collection that incorporates the strong silhouettes of tailored suits into a feminine rhetoric. Supported by a limited colour palette of black, white, beige, grey, and russet, the Oct31 collection is based around classic outerwear. Blazers, vests, leather jackets, and ballooned trench coats are dramatically styled with long, textured skirts and wide leg trousers. The addition of leather gloves to each outfit only adds to the classic look and narrative; we can imagine the women wearing these clothes out on a long drive in a vintage motor vehicle. Stand outs from the collection include a sleeveless blazer styled with a long wrap skirt and elbow-length gloves; a russet suit; and an oversized pinstripe blazer belted over a feathery-textured skirt.

KWAK HYUN JOO COLLECTION

The KWAK HYUN JOO COLLECTION marries an individual’s unique sense of self with the visual language of career fashion, emphasising modes of self-expression through references to streetwear. Draped and oversized fabrics are used to create relaxed silhouettes, transforming traditional pieces like suits into a more casual look. However, it’s the mixing of prints that arguably steals the show; bold patterns like check and tie dye are juxtaposed with graphic imagery and textures, creating a visual palette that just falls shy of being too much. These patterns take on bold colours, opening up the colour scheme of the collection with brighter tones that we don’t usually see in colder months. These vibrant tones bring a liveliness to the season that captures the youthful vision of the brand.

HOLY NUMBER 7

HOLY NUMBER 7 create “romantic streetwear” that highlights the designers’ Christian faith. Each season, the brand aims to use their collection to tell a positive story based on the Bible. For FW21, HOLY NUMBER 7 quoted Genesis 9:7: “As for you, be fruitful and increase in number; multiple on the earth and increase upon it.” With an emphasis on this theme of abundance, the brand decided to use their collection to raise awareness of textile waste and environmental pollution. In doing so, the collection integrates sustainable practices such as the use of deadstock fabric. HOLY NUMBER 7 demonstrate that sustainability can still be stylish with a bold colour palette, mixed patterns, and layered silhouettes. Carrying a vintage vibe that still manages to look relevant and contemporary, the collection playfully mixes texture, colour, and pattern to create edgy streetwear. HOLY NUMBER 7 aren’t subtle in their layering technique either, packing together undersuits, skirts, shirts, waistcoats, corsets, and blazers (often in one look). This tactic offers a rich visual landscape that begs the audience to take a closer look at the interwoven details of each outfit.

GREEDILOUS

Unique print and pattern design lie at the heart of the GREEDILOUS brand. Multiple prints and colours run through GREEDILOUS’s FW21 Collection, providing cohesion through their arresting treatment of colour and exciting play on optical illusion. The chessboard motif is a common theme throughout the collection, manifesting both in check patterns and chess pieces. The maximalist approach of designer Park Youn Hee is a dynamic contrast with other designers’ preference for structured minimalism; you won’t find simplicity here, but you will find fun. Notable looks in the collection include a patterned blazer and pleated skirt in pink, red, choral, and turquoise; a red, black, and blue chessboard bomber jacket layered over a matching skirt and sheer star-patterned top; and a black leather jacket and skirt combo featuring heavy floral embroidery on the sleeves and hem.

BIG PARK

Park Youn Soo’s brand BIG PARK is all about using signature items to construct an urban wardrobe. Their FW21 Collection is dominated by a mix of pastels, primary colours, and neutrals, which are complemented by loose and flowy silhouettes. The outfits on show also incorporate fragments of artistic prints and images, like Sandro Botticelli’s Birth of Venus, which elevates the femininity of the collection as a whole. These visual references to female beauty are highlighted by long tulle skirts, ribbons, and dramatic peasant collars. However, these arguably more delicate details sit alongside heavy leather coats, boxy hoodies, and wide padded shoulders, injecting an understated edge that helps situate them in the urban visual landscape.

ENSUE

Launched in 2019, ENSUE is one of the newer brands to take to the digital runways of Fashion Week. Designer Ensue Hwang punctuates her brand with a contemporary romanticism that “combines the innocent beauty of a girl with the sophistication of a lady”, emphasising delicate femininity through luxurious materials and refined silhouettes. ENSUE’s FW21 Collection follows this narrative with its heavy use of lace detailing and ribbon, which simultaneously decorates long gowns and pleated miniskirts. Sticking to a strict colour palette of black and white, the looks on show have a clean and sharp appearance that complements the tailoring of some of the collection’s more structured pieces – in particular, its peplum corset tops, long coats, and suits. ENSUE create a collection that celebrates feminine elegance and the transitional overlap of youth and womanhood. One of the standout looks from the collection was a long white pleated dress with a ribbed crochet undershirt, styled with a black blazer and suit trousers.

DOUCAN

DOUCAN uses graphic artwork to “reinterpret the oriental fantasy of nature, light, and age”, with designer Chung Hoon Choi introducing new prints each season to create a distinctive collection. DOUCAN was one of the shows to watch this Fashion Week season – and rightly so, if the visual impact of the collection is anything to go by. Swirling patterns are a focal point of each outfit, taking the form of prints, beadings, and textured ruching. A detail of DOUCAN’s pattern manipulation that makes them stand out is how they use it to create form and structure; by aligning swathes of fabric symmetrically across the torso and sleeves of a dress, the brand gives an illusion of depth that also highlights the model’s natural curves. Pattern is often combined with blocks of solid colour on the shoulders, lapels, and belts, providing an interesting alternative to the cut-out trend. An outfit to look out for is the black floor length sheer gown covered in rows of floral print in primary colours.

Words By Charlie Colville

The post Highlights From Seoul Fashion Week: Brands We Love And Shows That Caught Our Eye appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Lockdown has inspired many of us to pause our usual pace and reflect on the present moment, the things we miss, and what we want to see from a post-pandemic society. With restrictions now starting to lift, the reality we’ve spent over a year longing for now seems within touching distance.

Helmut Lang’s AW21 Collection “reflects a cautiously optimistic attitude” and examines the potential realities of a post-pandemic society. Interweaving the brand’s signature minimalistic silhouette styling with weatherproof garments and fabrics, the collection aims to prepare for the uncertainties of the near future by creating pieces that are both multi-functional and multi-seasonal.

Starting with a visual reference board of ski attire, hi-tech materials, and sci-fi aesthetics, the brand has produced a collection that revolves around silver surfaces – matte and reflective – and durable textiles. Functional materials such as double neoprene and astro foil are packed together to create padded or quilted garments that tap into the brand’s new futuristic vision. 

Both the Men’s and Women’s collections uphold this aesthetic, showcasing the likes of matte puffer vests with contrasting silver accents, nylon tracksuits, patchwork fleecing, zippered neoprene leggings, and sporty silhouettes decked out in military waffle. Functionality also takes pride of place; detachable sleeves, buckles, and belts are highlighted to show the multiple ways to wear a specific item.

While looking to the future is arguably the number one priority for many fashion labels, Helmut Lang continue to uphold the staples that gave it its seat at the forefront of the fashion industry. So, don’t be surprised to see the 90’s-inspired, minimalist finishes that detail the collection’s visual landscape.

“True to the brand’s heritage, timeless silhouettes are reconstructed using innovative materials and mixing signature Helmut Lang details such as straps, layered fabrics, and patchwork.”

– Helmut Lang

The collection is paired with Helmut Lang Standards, a line of garments that reimagine wardrobe staples using fabrics synonymous with the brand: denim, leather, and jersey. A contemporary twist is achieved by the use of deconstructed basics such as cutouts, detachable sleeves, padding, and strapping details.

Statement looks from the Women’s collection include silver miniskirts, long sleeves, and draped dresses. A standout look is a smooth rider suit reimagined as casualwear, made up of a cropped, double-breasted blazer and micro-mini wrap skirt. The outfit is a new take on the co-ord suit that combines Helmut Lang’s sharp tailoring with an edgy youthfulness. Utilitarian fixtures such as the skirt’s elastic tie and buckle closure also highlight the brand’s preference for functional detailing.

Men’s highlights consist of casual tracksuit pieces in grey, orange, khaki, and russet – a nod to the seasonal colour palette – as well as denim co-ords and puffed gilets. A shiny lambskin over-shirt jacket stands out for its resemblance to a biker jacket. Combined with zipper detailing, a white shirt, and Helmut Lang’s classic denim jeans, the outfit channels all of the timeless characteristics men’s fashion while staying true to the brand’s minimalist design aesthetic.

Bridging the gap between the ideals of the past and the excitement of the future, the Helmut Lang FW21 Collection truly cements the brand’s status as a pioneer of contemporary fashion. Using its winning combination of streetwear and high fashion, classic denim and Astro foil, pretty silhouettes, and functional detailing, Helmut Lang proves that their creative direction continues to offer a fresh perspective on the fashion landscape.

Words By Charlie Colville

The post “Cautious Optimism” Defines Helmut Lang’s AW21 Collection appeared first on Voir Fashion.

The new digital landscape of AW21 Fashion Week continues to flourish from our computer screens. The most recent instalment in the show series takes place in Tokyo via Rakuten Fashion Week, where the organisers are mixing it up with a combination of livestreamed shows, look books, and pre-recorded video.

While some of us may miss the opportunity of seeing these shows in person, the fashion industry’s effort to make Fashion Week events inclusive are more than welcome in these uncertain times.

With that being said, we’ve been keeping an eye on the designers taking to the virtual stage in Tokyo. Read on to find out who has caught our eye and made us do a double take so far.

SEVESKIG

Making their Tokyo Fashion Week debut, SEVESKIG hit the virtual runway with a pre-COVID concept that emphasised casual meetings and get-togethers. Noted for their signature use of leather, SEVESKIG seek to combine elements of motorcycle-wear with idealised American visuals. The premise of the AW21 Collection in particular examines the brand’s stance on using real leather despite its growing disuse amongst the Japanese public; SEVESKIG’s founder, Takanori Nagano, believes that the durability and reusability of real leather makes it a more sustainable product despite how its reputation has suffered in recent years. This commentary shapes the collection in its visual presentation, which shows its models in gift packaging that questions: “What do you really know?” SEVESKIG’s collection celebrates this theme through the mixing of leather trousers, coats, and accessories with check and denim streetwear.

KEISUKEYOSHIDA

The theme of KEISUKEYOSHIDA’s AW21 Collection is “Like a dead pigeon”, a metaphor which is synonymous with the death tarot card: a fresh start from a seemingly bad end. Designer Keisuke Yoshida approached this from the angle of youth culture, in particular how young people seem to experience a “dull youth” due to the uncertainty of modern times. While set in a white classroom with bright purple desks and chairs, the collection itself references recognisable elements of girls’ school uniform – plaid and pleated skirts, knee-high socks, and loafers. Jackets and coats are pushed to the front of a look to imitate the silhouette of someone leaning forward, creating a hunched figure that highlights the idea of feeling downtrodden. Dead pigeons also feature as a graphic motif on the front of hoodies and coats. At face value, the collection promotes the narrative of dejected youth, but Yoshida has indicated this is simply a celebration of moving to a brighter future – times appear hard at present, but hindsight makes you realise how far you have progressed.

Mikio Sakabe

Material luminosity and metallic surfaces are offset by a largely neutral colour palette in Mikio Sakabe’s AW21 offering. Layering and oversized fits are used to create silhouettes which play on scale and shape, as seen by the collections takes on oversized puffy coats and structured blazers. Accessories and details also become part of the layering mechanism, taking on the form of multiple pockets, cross-body bags, and straps. The matte textures of the collection gradually begin to incorporate more metallic accents and fabrics, with a glittery sheer material being used to create flowing dresses and coats. The impact of the pandemic is also made apparent through the incorporation of masks, which cover the whole head save from an open strip across the eyes; these masks have a resemblance to both skiwear or hazmat suits.

beautiful people

With a brand motto that champions the saying “everything is beautiful”, beautiful people aim to design clothing that goes beyond a singular beauty standard. In doing so, the brand’s aesthetic brings together contradicting concepts and aesthetics to create their looks. Their AW21 Collection is no different, mixing multiple textures, prints, and shapes together to make a collection where each look can stand on its own. Favouring a colour palette centring on shades of black and grey, the collection favours exaggerated silhouettes which are created through large shoulder pads, wide sleeves, oversized fits, and drapery. Outerwear features prominently but isn’t limited to coats and jackets; models are seen wearing suit jackets as corsets in a new version of the three-piece. As a seasonal preference, hats are used as a main accessory to both complement and offset an outfit – you won’t find a trapper hat out of place when styled with a sheer, floral maxi dress.

ADELLY

The ADELLY brand seeks to highlight the elegance and grace of the female shape, characterised by A-line dresses and floral prints. Taking inspiration from 1940’s women’s fashion, ADELLY’s AW21 Collection takes all the structural components of a vintage silhouette and combines modern colour palettes and pattern blocking. High, conservative necklines are used to emphasise statement collars and ribbons, with knee and calf length skirts building on the optical impression of lengthening the lines of the body. ADELLY also build on this through their attention to linear forms, which ranges from stripes and pleats to vertical folds and lace detailing. The collection is overall characterised by a pervading softness that is reflective of ADELLY’s wish to celebrate femininity, with loose silhouettes, flared skirts, and pastel accents solidifying this visual message.

mintdesigns

Hokuto Katsui and Nao Yagi’s brand, mintdesigns, is all about breathing freshness into the fashion landscape. Their AW21 collection, titled The Night Circus, pushes these ideas to the forefront with a collection that plays on manipulations of scale and texture as well as representations of androgyny. The women’s brand blends more extreme elements of performance costume – stilted heels, gloves, and face paint – with fashion staples more commonly found in streetwear, like oversized jumpers and wide leg trousers. Pattern and texture also feature heavily as layering pieces, which build the visual depth of a look beyond its neutral base colour. A white shirt is layered with a floral printed skirt, another check print skirt, and a multi-textural black sweater vest. In another look, a long beige coat with white lace panels is draped over a pair of blue and white wide leg trousers. Clashing in the best way, these fragments are pulled together to create outfits that are fun to digest and pick apart.

Words By Charlie Colville

The post Tokyo Fashion Week: The Brands We Love So Far appeared first on Voir Fashion.

On our route out of lockdown, Autumn/Winter 2021 (hopefully) grants endless opportunities to socialise to our heart’s content. AW21 is going to be a wild time for confidence and self-expression with the Milan Fashion Week trends. They range from delicate and dainty embellishments to winter maxi dresses, accessorised with boss women bags, bold print shoes, and iconic statement earrings. Milan AW21 has presented the chicest trends to accommodate a stylish return to normal life, finally showcasing our outfits and ensuring we are on-trend.

AW21 Bags: Go Big or Go Home

The AW21 bag is going to be a statement piece and a trend you aren’t going to miss, or want to miss. Milan Fashion Week collections place emphasis on large bags accompanying the models, in many cases these large bags are clutch style. Alberta Ferretti’s showcase their bags with the models hugging it as a means of transportation. Brands such as Tod, J W Anderson and Fendi embellish their large-scale bags with texture, such as faux fur and Sherpa materials. This trend in the ultimate boss move, it is bold, extra and empowering. Rather than cramming all belongings into a previously trendy miniature size bag, AW21’s upcoming trends are answering all our wishes. Affording the opportunity to carry our life and everything we could possibly need into one bag, wearing it with style and confidence.

The Bridgerton Inspired Collars

Popular Netflix series, Bridgerton, has been a lockdown watch for over 82 million households. Milan AW21 Fashion week has truly channelled this elegant aesthetic acquired by the Mayfair Debutants when dressing to impress. Philosophy di Lorenzo Sefani, Giorgio Armani and Alberta Ferretti are the leading labels that feature intricate tulle collars and delicately embellished neckline ruffles. This detailing frames the face beautifully and really elevates the looks to a sophisticated level. This trend is perfect for day-to-day use, when styling this neckline beneath jackets; it acts as an integrated accessory, totally effortless yet impressive.

Dresses for every season

Who said dresses are just for summer? The maxi dress will be joining us right into autumn and throughout winter. Salvatore Ferragamo has produced some gorgeous AW21 dresses; a collection highlight has to be the stunning ‘winter whites’ dress. Using a soft knit material, this off-the-shoulder maxi dress belongs in everyone’s winter wardrobe. This trend of transitioning the maxi into the

colder seasons is a power move; incorporating winter fabric into an iconic summer staple ensures the wearer is warm but most importantly, glowing.

Bold Print Boots

Boots are a staple throughout the autumn/winter season, typically used to dress up a low-key outfit. AW21 proves to be a high-key boot era; Prada’s AW21 collection entered the scene with geometric style boots. Departing from heals and substituting with a crazy coloured print, champions a boost of distinctiveness. If you want to hop on this trend but lean towards a subtler look, animal print boots are on the AW21 trend horizon established throughout the knee-high collections. Brands such as Moschino, Fendi and Alberta Ferretti encourage this desired attention towards the boot; rather than simply adding to an outfit, the AW21 boot creates the outfit.

Earrings For a Last Minute Wow Factor

No make-up, no problem, let the earrings do the talking. Earrings are an easy way to spice up an outfit and Milan Fashion Week exhibits an array of statement pieces that will dominate AW21 trends. Architecturally MFW earrings excelled through many brands, Etro showcased unique sculptural pieces with silver tassels, reflecting light and motion. Dangling earrings are the overriding feature within the collections, from Moschino’s bullet shape pendent to Alberta Ferretti’s beautiful golden ornaments upheld by a thin bar. This type of earring act as a magnet for attention and compliments, they even act as an awesome conversation starter, ready for Autumn 21 in-person interactions.

Words By Theodora Wood

The post The 5 Key Trends We Are Taking Away From The FW21 Milan Shows appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Major brands such as Fendi, Simona Marziali MRZ, and No.21 opened the start of the week, hitting the digital runway with exciting collections that drew in audiences from all over the world via their computer screen.  

Online fashion shows continue to provide a masterclass in the perseverance of a global creative industry. We’ll be recapping below some of our favourite shows from the first day of Milan Fashion Week AW21.

AC9

Italian brand AC9 were one of the first to kick off Milan Fashion Week. Presenting ‘CENSORED’, the brand’s AW21 Collection plays on the themes of sensitivity and censorship with a refusal to be contained by contemporary standards. The collection centres on a colour palette of red, white, black, and pink, and seeks to promote the rebel aesthetic with a video that locates its models amongst suburban streets and motorbikes. Playing on censor bars, the collection uses thin strips of black or pink fabric to create a bar across the chest; this creates a new top that is as striking as it is suggestive. Sheer floor-length dresses layered over sheer underwear are also introduced, again building on the narrative of uninhibited sexuality. Print is minimal, but the show of skin injects the collection with its own brand of excitement. Feathered skirts, fringe coats, and corseted dresses are also highlighted, imbuing the collection with undertones of glamour as well as a rough edginess.

Alessandro Enriquez

The party doesn’t stop with Alessandro Enriquez’s AW21 Collection, which brings social events to the forefront of the designer’s vision. With a “new festa” video reminiscent of a 1980’s house party, the collection draws on the fun we wish we had in 2020 while envisioning the party we’ll have when the pandemic is over. The colour palette of the collection is unrestricted in its approach to vibrant colours, which comes across in the mixing of multiple prints and patterns; layered, clashing, and decorating. Suits in fun patterns are highlighted by a ‘less is more’ styling, forgoing a shirt and highlighting the impact of the print and tailoring. Metallic accents, in the form of silky fabrics and gold threads, also emphasised the partywear vibe. Loose balloon sleeves, shoulder pads, fluffy coats, and full-length skirts round out the collection by highlighting retro aesthetics.

Simona Marziali MRZ

The AW21 Collection from Simona Marziali MRZ highlights comfort through loose silhouettes and knitwear. Mixing a muted colour palette of white, grey, and black with bolder notes of lime and purple, the collection emphasises the versatility of knitted textures. Oversized clothing features prominently, with an emphasis of wide leg trousers and long sleeves as well as sweater vests and cardigans. Flitting between elements of comfort and structure, the collection upholds the WFH aesthetic. Trousers in the collection are loose and often feature stripes zipping down the sides of the leg; a split hem with excess fabric trailing on the floor builds on this more relaxed look. Pattern is also brought into the collection through knitted blocks, creating a chunky check that ensures the inclusion of multiple vibrant colours.

Fendi

Fendi’s AW21 Collection is an exemplary lesson in sophisticated silhouette-building and opulence; from fabric to fit, each look screams a narrative of powerful femininity. Silky fabrics are highlighted to give outfits a greater luminosity, with the metallic sheen also drawing attention to the lightness of the material. Bulky, floor-length coats are the not-so-subtle star of the collection, introducing dramaticism through a variation of prints, padded shoulders, faux fur, fringing, and puffed sleeves. Fendi also offers a new take on the asymmetrical neckline, which translates into an off-the-shoulder, half-wrap top that softens the uneven line. Additionally, shirt cuffs are highlighted in a ribbon-like material that contrasts with the sleeve, either sitting as a band at the wrist or tapering out into a slight bell shape to cover the hands and elongate the line of the arm.

Sara Wong

Sara Wong presents ‘Tartary: Shades of Mongolian’ for their AW21 offering. Exploring traditional Mongolian culture, the collection seeks to incorporate historical staples while mapping out those that are still worn today. Using colours reflecting the preferred shades of Mongolian women, the collection incorporates brown, burgundy, blue, yellow, pink, and lilac. Silhouettes also draw on traditional Mongolian fashion, with an emphasis of dramatic shaping around the shoulders, puffed sleeves, and a cropped cage crinoline to accentuate the waist. Variations in texture are created through the use of multiple fabrics in one outfit, including velvet, lace, knit, and feathers. The addition of heavy beading, headdresses, and body jewellery build on this visual depth, emphasising the collection’s play on light and shape.

No.21

The relatively new label No.21 stays true to Italian designer Alessandro Dell-Acqua’s signature combination of feminine dresses and masculine tailoring, which are infused with a more experimental approach in his AW21 Collection. A key means of injecting excitement into the collection is the alteration of necklines and hemlines to showcase underwear. Whether lace knickers peeking through layered fringe skirts, a flash of a bralette under a cropped jumper, or the full set visible under a sheer dress, the collection invites a more liberal attitude to the boundary between underwear and outerwear. Cut outs are also highlighted, utilising a deconstructed method of panels held in place over the chest by a thin band and emphasising the skin on show. No.21’s collection will be noted for making anyone’s head turn this autumn.

Photo credits: Courtesy of AC9, Alessandro Enriquez, Simona Marziali, Fendi, Sara Wong and No.21

Words by Charlie Colville

The post Milan AW21 Fashion Week Opening Day: The Highlights appeared first on Voir Fashion.

As audiences have already gathered, the digital landscape has offered designers the chance to branch out into more conceptual modes of storytelling when it comes to the presentation of collections. Virtual reality, 360-degree interactive videos, and short films provide an exciting audience experience that rivals the standard in-person show.

With London’s shows now wrapping up, we’d like to look through some of the highlights from the past few days. From APUJAN’s dreamscape storytelling to Edeline Lee’s Gothic showcase, the looks on show do not disappoint.

MONDAY

Mithridate

During the pandemic, Guangzhou-based designer Demon Lee decided to use her experience of isolation as an opportunity to explore the inner self through creative media. The resulting collection, ‘Automatiste’, builds on these themes of self-reflection and uncertainty while incorporating Mithridate’s signature approach to fashion as a multi-sensory artform. The collection has a central focus on tailored silhouettes and glittering accents, including jewels, beads, and metallic threads. Transitioning from black and red, to brown, and finally to grey and white, the collection also exhibits a muted colour palette that accentuates the structure of the clothes and their detailing. A clever approach to the ongoing trend of floral patterning was the isolation of natural forms in metallic beading, creating thorns and flowers in red, silver, and gold. Key features of ‘Automatiste’ include shoulder pads, suit tailoring, leather accents, and oversized coats.

OSMAN

Osman Yousefzada aims to bring together the former East Indies and West Indies in his AW21 Collection, highlighting social values such as community and environment to enable meaningful connections. These themes saturate much of Yousefzada’s work, influencing his use of organic and Last Yards fabrics. Warm tones, including reds, pinks, purples, and golds, dominate the visual landscape of the OSMAN collection and its accompanying video. Focusing on the creation of dramatic silhouettes and colourful patterns, the collection in particular highlights the use of puffed sleeves and shoulder pads. Oversized accessories such as chandelier earrings, chunky necklaces, and gold headbands accentuate the sophisticated extravagance of the collection. The use of colourful patches, large circular sequins, and abstract patterns rounded out the collection with a fun aesthetic that paralleled an optimism for the coming year.

Emilia Wickstead

Characterised by timeless clothing that embodies modern femininity, the Emilia Wickstead brand intertwines classic lines and shapes with modern trends. Cut-outs in particular appear to be a staple of the collection, with open backs and sides giving each look a contemporary edge. Another noticeable feature which Wickstead often refers back to is the use of coordinated sets, in particular maxi skirt and cropped shirts. Slit skirts are also prominent within the collection, although Wickstead moves beyond the traditional side-split to incorporate a full pleat of slits that extend the skirt’s length. Outerwear is dominated by full-length coats with large collars and pocket details, as well as textured patterns like tartan. The colour palette is minimal in its use of monochrome but does incorporate splashes of gold, purple, red, and blue throughout the collection.

ROKSANDA

A collection centring around female perspective and celebration, ROKSANDA’s AW21 Collection uses its accompanying short film to highlight “a series of tender and fleeting moments” between three generations of women in the same family. Set against the countryside in which these women lived during lockdown, the collection plays on the parallels between colour, fluidity, and form that lie between home and the natural world. As such, the colour palette of the collection incorporates colours with feminine associations, including pinks, lilacs, and yellows. Silky fabrics are used to highlight the flow of movement and light on natural curves, and shapes on the upper part of the body are exaggerated; shoulders are padded out, sleeves puffed, and collars ruffled. A key component of the collection is the attention paid to the female form, which is incorporated in the patterns used in some of the fabrics – look out for the larger-than-life purple dress covered in women’s faces.

Edeline Lee

Edeline Lee is known for creating collections with “the Future Lady” in mind, examining transformations in female identity. The AW21 Collection presents a short story, ‘Memory of a Dress’, in which the intimacies of how meanings and memories attached to clothing are explored. Edeline Lee commented in the video description: “I wanted to contemplate how memory and nostalgia can be held by a piece of clothing…how the soul of a dress can inherently give the wearer a sense of stability, confidence, and power.” The collection is based on a minimal colour palette of malachite, mustard, brown, white, and black. A romanticism flows through the collection, as expressed by the incorporation of full-length skirts and flowing balloon sleeves. However, these are also blended with current trends such as capes, cut outs, and shoulder pads. Relaxed fits and layering are also a defining feature of the collection, in particular wide leg trousers, joggers, and loose shirts.

Natasha Zinko x DUO ltd

Natasha Zinko x DUOltd continue to push for gender fluidity in their collections, with the focus on “girls wearing boys and boys wearing girls” remaining unchanged in their AW21

offerings. Gothic visuals permeate the entire collection, which sits itself comfortably on the line between costume and high-end couture. Lace in particular is used generously, accenting necklines and aprons, and used to create sheer dresses. A notable feature is the use of an exaggerated peter pan collar, where frills give a feminine edge to more masculine fits. Flared jeans and trousers are also highlighted and decked out in an array of patterns (including sheep). Layering is crucial to some of the more complex looks in terms of their exploration of gendered shapes; hoodies and oversized shorts are nearly dwarfed by layers of jackets and coats.

TUESDAY

APUJAN

APUJAN’s AW21 Collection has an emphasis on story-telling that combines mystery, science fiction, and fantasy. The video presentation follows an insomniac detective who is able to travel through dreams and is put on the case of finding out why several young women are unable to wake up. The space in which the detective travels through is a simulation of the brand’s fashion show. APUJAN stay true to their signature style with the inclusion of traditional and oriental elements, such as the cheongsam-style dress, although these are combined with global contemporary trends. Cut outs featured prominently in the collection, creating rows of neat, open squares that left the remaining material to create a blocky check pattern. As with previous APUJAN collections, this one also used knit techniques to give the collection a greater textural dimension; skirts, crop tops, and hats could be seen in coral and reddish-brown knits. Pattern, in particular variations of stripes, were also spotlighted as a means of introducing more intense colours into the monochromatic palette.

Accidental Cutting

For their new collection, Accidental Cutting present ‘KONSUM aw 21/22 Apocalypse the New Reality II’, an exploration into the possibilities of virtual reality following the economic catastrophes caused by the Coronavirus pandemic. Seeking to answer questions about the future of fashion and its means of adapting to current lifestyles, the collection blends athleisure staples with more event-ready items; dramatic, full-length skirts are seen alongside hoodies, jogging bottoms, and other outdoor sportswear. Long sleeves remain consistent among all the looks on show, with arm warmers also being layered on top of select outfits. Full-length coats are also prominent, often emphasising the structure of the shoulder with shoulder pads and cutouts on the upper arm. A ribbon or sash with the Accidental Cutting logo is a detail that features consistently throughout the collection.

Susan Fang

‘AIR-TIME’ is an exploration of the subjective experience of time. Considering the past year, Susan Fang looked back at feelings of uncertainty and the anxieties we faced over not having  

control of our own time. When making her collection, Fang wanted to create a short film using an 1850 wet processing film technique that highlighted the process from start to finish, creating a layered story that mixed individual moments in time. The collection incorporates Fang’s signature bubble pieces, which she combines with fountain headpieces to create the impression of water splashes frozen in mid-air. Emphasising a look of soft airiness, the collection shifts between a light, pastel-hued colour palette and jewel tones. Additionally, tulle and ribbon are highlighted as key components, layered into flowing dresses that channel loose shapes and accentuate soft movements.

JENN LEE

JENN LEE presents ‘Love Planet’, which takes audiences to another world via a 360-degree virtual reality viewing experience. The collection features different character types, such as the ‘Explorer’, ‘Girl Raver’, and ‘Superstar’, in a colourfully experimental digital space. One of the more interactive shows of London Fashion Week, JENN LEE invites their audience to move around the space provided to view each look. Sporting a vibrant colour palette of lime green, orange, red, blue, and black, the collection is striking in its use of luminescent colour. Denim features heavily in many of the looks, styled with metal eyelets arranged in flowing bubble-like patterns. Zip detailing is also used on trousers, skirts, and jumpsuits to introduce line and structure, as well as emphasise flared shapes. Psychedelic patterns and asymmetrical hemlines give many of the looks a retro finish, with chunky platform trainers, boots, and shoes emphasising this aesthetic.

Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha’s AW21 Collection brings together themes of delicate femininity and practical strength, working on the image of the “fragile rebel”. The winter rose, noted for its ability to maintain its beauty while withstanding hostile conditions, is a central symbol running through the collection. Structured leather is intertwined with Rocha’s usual play on satin and tulle, with leather jackets, harnesses, and bralettes emphasising the unification of delicate textures and strong shapes. This highlights the collection’s emphasis of tailoring through its presentation of leather jackets and blazers. Sheer fabrics are also particularly prominent, used to create puffed sleeves or layered into full, doll-like skirts. The silky, see-through fabric is also used to construct trousers, which are layered under skirts like loose-fitting tights. Floral embroidering and beadwork are highlighted throughout the collection, incorporated into skirt hems and shirt collars. Another feature of note is the use of mixed patterns, which Rocha incorporates through layered patchwork and texture.

Daniel w. Fletcher

Debuting his first womenswear collection, Daniel w. Fletcher presents ‘Love Is A Stranger’. Rather than stick to the label of womenswear, Fletcher wanted to continue the narrative and styling of his current collections in a way that was also inclusive of the female body shape.

Using his menswear collections as a starting point, the AW21 Collection brings Fletcher’s signature tailoring, military decorations, and check print to the forefront. The collection also emphasises the outlining of seams and details in contrasting coloured thread, decorating jackets, coats, and trousers. The familiar structured suit, turtleneck, and collared shirt make an appearance, but so do the pleated skirt and backless dress, making the collection fluid in its presentation of women’s clothing. The layering of a cream pleated skirt over trousers in particular played on this narrative.

ERDEM

For their FW21 Collection, ERDEM locate the audience in the stage wings of a ballet performance. Taking inspiration from a collaboration with The Royal Ballet in 2018 and the career of ballet dancer Margot Fonteyn, ERDEM explores clothing worn by dancers off-stage and on-stage in an examination of the transition between performance and rest. The colour palette used consists of reds, pinks, black, and ecru. Costume elements such as feathers and beaded embroidery are highlighted alongside tulle underskirts and puff sleeves, creating dramatic silhouettes that reflect the glamour of performance. The collection also highlights full-length coats and tailored suits that open at the bottom to show a skirt, highlighting the narrative of the ballet mistress “rushing elsewhere at the end of the performance with no time to change.” A notable feature in ERDEM’s collection is the use of pleats, seen in skirts, dresses, and on the back of coats, which again relate to the contemporary styles of the period Fonteyn danced in during the mid-twentieth century.

Words By Charlie Colville, Graphics By Victoria Zhao

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