Summer styles and statement designs aplenty, September rolls to an end and we have been blessed with yet another impressive fashion week, this time taking place in the capital of Fashion, Paris. Heralding a fresh new summer with sizzling new visions and truckloads of fashion drama from Maria Chiurri’s enthusiastic colour displays for Dior to Rick Ownes’ aggressive mastery, here is a run-down of the shows which have stunned us this week.
Victor Weinsanto has been a rising star during PFW, and he did not disappoint with his refreshingly authentic show. The folklore of Alsace (where he grew up) offered design inspiration for his SS22 collection as he pulled out all the stops by even asking his grandmother to sing in Alsacian dialect for the soundtrack to the show. Weinsanto also brought drama to the runway with vivid colours which brightened up the darkroom, including a distinct fuchsia. Dramatic collared capes also framed the models, keeping to the theatrical theme featuring a geometric purple cape paired with a matching dress and sheer leggings.
Marine Serre’s SS22 collection was an ode to environmentally focused living as it was Serre’s most sustainable collection yet due to it being composed of 45% recycled and 45% regenerated materials. She gave her digital film the title OSTAL 24, (meaning house in Occitan historical language spoken in Serre’s native region) as Serre wanted to create a sense of comfort within her collection. This 13-minute film featured lab coats fashioned from embroidered tablecloths and tea towels as well as catsuits and joggers in psychedelic prints. Serre’s signature styles also popped up including overdyed patchwork jeans. Within the film, the models went about their daily lives; including cooking and mediating to prove you don’t need a glamorous runway to appreciate fashion.
Christian Dior brought colour to PFW this year with their SS/22 collection. The venue underwent a 60s nightclub inspired makeover with multi-coloured flooring and a live band playing Italian disco music. The ’60s influence did not stop there though, it was evident within the collection as the runway was flooded with colour blocking A-line dresses and miniskirts alongside trapeze coats. Glittering evening looks also took to the stage following the nightclub ambience as well as mesh fabrics and extravagant bows.
Ottolinger’s SS22 show, which took place on the Left Bank, was all about cutouts and showing off some skin. The line-up of models featured a range of body types which is not seen often across these fashion weeks as diversity was celebrated as feeling sexy and revealing skin should be enjoyed by all. Cut out necklines were spotted as well as the same detailing on trousers that wound their way down the models’ legs. Cycling short coordinates were also a staple of the show appearing in a vivid orange or a more basic white. The look that stole the show was the twisted denim outfit which included asymmetric waisted jeans and a one-sleeved jacket creating a unique look for SS/22.
Saint Laurent stormed the runway right where Paris shines the brightest as the Eiffel Tower lit up the surroundings and was the spotlight to the stage. The glistening landmark was not the only breathtaking part as the collection did not disappoint. Saint Laurent brought the glamour back to their home turf after a year and a half of being locked away. Fitted suits and blazer dresses with padded shoulder detailing made a sophisticated statement as well as elegant maxi dresses featuring the one-shoulder look and cut out detailing. Colourful accessories were also paired with these outfits, including an electric blue which was seen repeatedly. Flattering catsuits were also rocked by the models as they were seen in a floral print and a vibrant purple.
Didu’s presentation at PFW featured cowboy accents and a range of silhouettes as Du designs her clothing around the idea that skin is a textile too and can be used in an outfit. This included deconstructed clothing such as a cut-out waist on trousers as well as the splicing detail seen on a range of tops. Backless garments were also a theme of the show as this detailing elevated the clothing to give it a classy but sexy look. Wrap over necklines were also a complimenting touch to the line, featured in a range of eye-catching colours including a fiery red and an unmissable purple.
Charles de Vilmorin’s Rochas collection set light to the runway as the first wave of the show featured a dark and fiery palette that seemed inspired by burning flames. There were a range of short and maxi plisse dresses featuring dark oranges and deep reds with ruffled layered details. As well as knee high boots and platform shoes which snaked their way up the leg like a burning flame. Next up in the collection was a more monochrome based theme inspired by De Vilmorin’s drawings, including puffed out skirts and flowy dresses. Lastly, there was a theme of deconstruction as materials draped around the models and cold shoulder dresses and tops hugged the models.
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten’s SS22 collection stuck to the digital format and took a euphoric festival-inspired approach with an uplifting colour palette. The collection got us even more excited to be able to groove again next summer, especially after this fashion inspiration from them. A range of textures was used, including jacquards, silk and fake furs as lockdown prevented us from dressing in extravagant and lavish clothing so Dries Van Noten used this opportunity to go all out. This also included lively fringing dresses in colours of turquoise and orange. Depths of glimmer danced its way into the collection as well with bejewelled denim jackets and sparkling tops.
Di Petsa made a splash during this PFW as their custom wet look flooded the SS22 collection. Sheer white dresses embellished with silver jewels rippled down the models as well as low waisted midi skirts paired with a cropped top creating a glowing goddess look. Draped midi dresses were also a key part of the collection appearing in an ocean blue and a satin white featuring a feminine low back.
Acne Studios SS22 show took place in a rustic setting of a loft as exposed brick and large mirrors surrounded the runway which was covered in a plush black fabric. These surroundings complimented the rich neutral colours of the collection as cream and brown leather appeared on dresses and shorts, as well as the contrasting stitch on trousers as two tones were played around with. Juxtaposing was also a key theme as punk like leather was paired with feminine chiffon shirts and delicate corset tops. Sheer shirts took to the stage as well, paired with buckled skirts delivering a fierce look.
Balmain served us with an unforgettable show as Olivier Rousteing took glitz and glam to a whole other level. Rousteing was celebrating 10 years as lead designer, and he showed off his talents through a collection full of neutral and gold tones. Heavily embellished jackets dazzled the audience as well as gold chain detailed garments and cut-out, figure-hugging maxi dresses. An audio tribute by the pop queen herself, Beyonce also praised the designer and referred to Balmain as an ‘amazing tool for beauty and change’. The show ended spectacularly as Olivier showcased his most iconic designs which included a dress modelled by Naomi Campbell, who was wearing a sparkling, figure complimenting maxi number that made it a night to remember.
The ‘Prince of Darkness’ Rick Owens made a smoking appearance at PFW as his models entered the Palais de Tokyo through clouds of fog showcasing his dark yet loud SS/22 collection. Owens brought black back as the show featured a range of dark outfits including layered looks with leather jackets and black mesh garments. It was a representation of his signature aggressive aesthetic as large black platform boots also paraded down the runway. Orange coloured mesh also found its way into the collection amongst the black, layered over a cut out one piece.
Chloe’s SS/22 show took place in a picturesque location by the River Seine, which complemented the natural beauty of the collection. Models strutted down the riverbank with elegance as angelic white dresses flew in the wind and suit co-ords made a smart statement. A muted mustard yellow was also seen on the garments to add a splash of colour to the collection, including midi skirt coordinates and floor-length trench coats. Colour was also seen on crochet detailed dresses which were embellished with shell-shaped accessories giving a beach-like vibe.
This fashion week’s calendar marks Marie-Eve Lecavalier’s first Paris appearance with her SS22 collection. All garments featured a range of textures and patterns creating a delicate look whilst also remaining complex. Layering with shirts was also a trend seen with mesh vests and wide crochet knit stitch dresses. A handful of colours were used as Lecavalier stuck to a specific colour palette of neutrals alongside blues and reds.
Thursday ended beautifully with Isabel Marant’s show as she continued with the beach vibes and transformed her staple feminine designs with a bikini silhouette perfect for SS22. The show was filled with energy as abstract patterns and bright colours worked hand in hand to create outfits that screamed summer. The upbeat music spoke for the lively attires which included emerald green floral co-ords and bikini tops layered over lemon yellow tops. Mini dresses and oversized jackets also appeared in shades of orange and yellow.
Words by Josie Cooke
Photo Credit: Rafael Pavarotti for Dries Van Noten SS/22