Pharrell has been reluctant to share any glimpses into the upcoming collection, which will be unveiled via a private runway show on the opening day of Paris Men’s Fashion Week, June 20th. The show will mark five years since Virgil Abloh, the last person to hold the role, presented his debut Louis Vuitton collection at the Palais Royal. 

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Our first sneak peek— if you can describe a ginormous billboard as such— is a blown-up photograph of Rihanna plastered on the side of the Musée d’Orsay this Thursday, overlooking the Seine. In the image, a very pregnant Rihanna sports her signature unbuttoned shirt, accentuating her bump, and carries a takeaway coffee and four primary-coloured Louis Vuitton monogram bags. Her leather shirt features a pixelated pattern reminiscent of Louis Vuitton’s classic Damier print, and she pairs it with smart black trousers and two diamond necklaces. In a photo shared on Instagram, Pharrell poses in front of the billboard wearing a similar all-black outfit to match his muse. 

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Pharrell and Rihanna go way back, collaborating on the song Lemon in 2017, and are rumoured to be working together again for her next album. Rihanna also has connections to LVMH, the French luxury conglomerate behind Louis Vuitton and Fenty’s beauty, skin, and (formerly) fashion lines. 

We are sure that the opening show will be a star-studded event, with Pharrell utilising his connections from the fashion and music industries. A true jack of all trades, Pharrell has won 13 Grammy awards, been nominated twice for an Academy award, and won the CFDA’s Fashion Icon Award in 2015. His predecessor, Virgil, was also a polymath— a qualified engineer, architect, DJ, and creator of the designer label Off White. 

Louis Vuitton welcomed Pharrell ‘home’, with his journey alongside the company beginning in 2004 when he designed the iconic ‘Millionaire’ sunglasses and another collab in 2008. He was also Chanel’s first male fashion ambassador and designed a collection with them, as well as creating a fragrance line with Comme des Garçons, a handbag line with Moynat, and sunglasses with Tiffany. He created the streetwear brand Billionaire Boys Club and its sister brand Ice Cream Footwear, and co-founded Bionic Yarn in 2010, a fibre made from recycled plastic bottles found in the sea. His most notable fashion collab is a long-term partnership between his HUMANRACE brand and Adidas, reimagining 2023’s It-Shoe—the Samba— in bright block colours.

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We can expect to see a lot of streetwear and pop culture influences in his collection, with Hemant Kalbag of Alvarez & Marsal Consumer Retail Group telling Forbes that “Pharrell will help keep LV relevant to the next generation of LV customers”. He will be able to tap into the multifaceted aspect of Louis Vuitton, blending the past, present, and future and potentially collaborating with some of our favourite streetwear brands. 

_{Written By Lucy Walshe}

^{Header Image: @pharrell Instagram}

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The late Virgil Abloh’s Nike Air Force 1 collection for Louis Vuitton is slated to become this year’s most hyped fashion collaboration. In honor of its emblematic last designer, the fashion house partnered with sportswear giant Nike to launch a nine-piece limited edition sneaker collection.

The two brands geared up to release a new collection created by the late designer who was the design house’s men’s artistic director. Abloh died in November after a private two-year battle with cancer.

Designed by Virgil Abloh, the collection first debuted in June 2021 at Louis Vuitton’s men’s spring 2022 show. In February, 200 pairs were sold exclusively at Sotheby’s, which auctioned the sneakers to benefit Abloh’s “Post-Modern” Scholarship Fund. The auction generated $25.3 million. Louis Vuitton and Nike also celebrated the collection in May with an exhibit in New York City.

Abloh was inspired by “Amen Break,” a drum break in the 1969 song by The Winstons, which is one of the most recognizable samples in hip-hop and jungle music. Abloh compared the drum break to the Air Force 1 sneaker, as the style was first introduced in 1982 and was a popular sneaker in New York’s hip-hop scene.

Coming from the streetwear community, the artistic director considered the Nike Air Force 1 as a cultural symbol in its own right. And today, the two fashion icons merged to create the most authentic high-end sneakers. The Air Force 1 is elevated to an art object by Virgil Abloh, who saw it as an emblem of this subculture.

The sneaker collection includes a variety of colors and design elements. The nine-piece assortment features all-white and all-black sneakers embossed with the Louis Vuitton logo, a white checkered version featuring graffiti-style art, a metallic gold style, and a multi-colored style featuring a silver chrome toe, among others.

Although the collection has already sold out on Louis Vuitton’s website, we can’t help but celebrate the streetwear and modern approach that Virgil Abloh brought to the long-established fashion house.

Words By Melodie Bitala-Samba

^{Header Image: Louis Vuitton X Nike}

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After the last heartfelt tribute to late designer Virgil Abloh, showcasing his final collection for the house. A big question is at the heart of t

The upcoming event. Who will be the long-awaited Louis Vuitton’s successor for Paris Men’s Fashion Week 2022? While the new artistic director has yet to be announced, the menswear show collection will be designed by the brand’s design studio. But the mystery and the expectation are felt.

The fashion rumour mill has been in overdrive about Abloh’s successor since the 41-year-old designer died of cancer on 28 November 2021. Fashion insiders and people close to LVMH’s thinking told Vogue Business among the possibilities are Jonathan Anderson who has revived LVMH-owned Loewe with acclamation for both men and womenswear. Nigo, who has recently been hired at Kenzo, is another possibility.

Ronnie Fieg, who founded Kith, and Sacai founder and creative director Chitose Abe, who have both built successful brands, were also mentioned.

Emerging designers’ names include young British designers Grace Wales Bonner, Jerry Lorenzo, and Samuel Ross, (both friends and collaborators of Abloh’s), as well as Casablanca founder of Charaf Tajer. 

Rumour has it that Kanye West is also being lined up to take over Louis Vuitton’s artistic direction and follow Virgil Abloh’s legacy. 

Speculation is high, and we suspect the reveal may come at the show! 

One thing is certain the successor will be a creative who reaches beyond the world of fashion. 

Words By Melodie Bitala-Samba

_{Header Image: Louis Vuitton}

The post Paris Mens Fashion Week – Who Will Be Louis Vuittons Next Creative Director? appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Off-White have announced that IB Kamara will be taking on the role of their new art and image director. IB Kamara is no stranger to the fashion world, with the new director being most known as the editor-in-chief of fashion magazine Dazed which has always had a strong reputation for being visually distinct amongst its contemporaries. Kamara also had a strong relationship with Virgil Abloh, so the brand is undoubtedly in safe hands with his hiring. The two initially started messaging through Instagram DMs and over time eventually grew into a personal and professional relationship which was held up by mutual respect and shared values.

Speaking on Virgil, Kamara said:

“Virgil will forever be with us. With me. He changed the world and left an indelible mark on anyone who encountered him and beyond. Generous with his time, mind and creativity – he saw everyone and created with all humans in mind. I am honored to further link my ties to Off-White as their Art & Image Director and be a part of the team that will tell the rest of the story Virgil started writing for us all”

Kamara isn’t new to Off-White either, having previously styled some previous shows for the brand, as well as for other brands including Ricardo Tisci. Kamara’s work has been rich in mixing high fashion with cultural diversity, as well as frequently questioning gender and identity. As part of his new position Kamara will be heavily focused on continuing and nurturing the brand’s distinct image and legacy whilst also now injecting his own creative spin into campaigns and collections. With Off-White having such a distinct visual identity in the fashion world it’s definitely going to be interesting to see what kind of direction the brand now begins to take.

Words By Andrew Coyle

_{Photo Credit: Off White Instagram}

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Coming in two colour combinations: black/green and white/red, the shoe was inspired by basketball, skateboarding and running sneakers and features an exposed foam tongue, vibrant laces fitted in a unique pattern and punched out holes, with both brand’s names and the name of the sneaker itself emblazoned on the side.

The sneaker is being released in accordance with Abloh’s wishes, with a Nike statement reading: “Prior to his passing, Abloh was characteristically prolific. In his planning with Nike, Abloh and his creative trust had developed fully realised product collaborations and uniquely Abloh marketing and storytelling vehicles for seasons to come.” Virgil’s wife Shannon Abloh has also been involved with the release of the collaboration.

The Nike x Off-White Low Blazer will be releasing on April 8 and will be available to buy at both Nike and Off-White stores.

Words By Andrew Coyle

_{Photo Credit: Laylai Chi}

The post A Piece Of Virgil Abloh: The Nike x Off-White Release The Blazer Low Sneaker appeared first on Voir Fashion.

The show had a magical touch from its opening, as Virgil’s voice was heard speaking on the subject of adults having the ability to return to “childhood wonderment” when allowing their imagination to be set free. This speech was matched with a hot air balloon ascending into the air, perhaps as a symbol of Virgil’s high achievements and the positive mark he left on the world. 

At the forefront of the show was the impeccable designs Abloh created, a vocation he dedicated his life to perfecting and delivering. Many designs were the creations we previously saw in June at LV’s Paris Fashion show, however, this didn’t take away from the star-quality and individualism of the designs, that only Virgil could have pulled off. 

Back in June, Virgil spoke about his collection saying;

“I’ve started to let my imagination run wild. I try to create the world as I would like to see it in real life. Having something that’s pop culture and fashion, that’s an education and maybe opens minds. To me, that’s the North Star.”

The show had a huge turnout, with friends and supporters amongst the crowd such as Pharrel Williams, Rihanna, ASAP Rocky, Kim Kardashian and Virgil’s lifelong friend and collaborator Kanye West. 

Louis Vuitton’s CEO Michael Burke was also in attendance, delivering a poignant heartfelt speech moments before the models took to the runway. 

“The deeply moving show we are about to see is born out of an idea Virgil and I first discussed three years ago. It is based around the traditional coming of age narrative, but of course, being Virgil, he spun and recontextualized the concept for the 21st century, and in doing so expressed his own unique talents and vision. This idea of coming of age was important to Virgil because inspiring and empowering younger generations defined who he was. He used the platform he had to break boundaries, to open doors, to shed light on his creative passions, art, design, music, and of course, fashion, so that everybody could see inside—not only to dream of being part of that world, but to also find ways to make that dream a reality.”

Speaking in June, Abloh said that he wanted “to keep diversity at the forefront of how I think about what fashion is today.” There is no doubting the fact that he achieved this goal, with his final showcase offering styles that represented and expressed different cultures and walks of life. Virgil’s legacy cannot be erased, having touched so many of us with his remarkable talent, and in turn, empowering a generation to make their dreams a reality.

Words By Nadia Clasper

_{Photo Credit: Jerry Lorenzo Instagram}

The post Virgil Was Here – Louis Vuitton Showcases Virgil Abloh’s Final Collection appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Rise to success 

After graduating from university in 2009, Abloh started making serious moves on his fashion journey when he interned at Fendi in Rome with Kanye West. Later that year, in a now well-circulated photo, Kanye and Virgil appeared at Paris Fashion Week. They caught the attention of many, creating excitement on what was next to come.

By 2010, Abloh was appointed creative director of ‘Donda’ (Kanye’s creative agency). Keeping relationships tight, Abloh also went on to art direct for Jay-Z and Kanye’s album ‘Watch The Throne’ in 2011, which earned him a Grammy nomination. 

Pyrex Vision 

Abloh’s first brand titled ‘Pyrex Vision’ was launched in 2012 as an artistic experiment centred around the importance of youth culture. The endeavour saw Virgil purchase deadstock Ralph Lauren flannel shirts for around $40, and screen print designs consisting of ‘Pyrex’ and the number ‘23’ to pay homage to his childhood hero Michael Jordan. The newly-designed shirts were sold from prices of $550 upwards. 

Off-White

After shutting Pyrex Vision, Abloh founded Off-White. The brand was based in Milan, Italy and saw Abloh combine luxury with streetwear to devise a company that acts as “the grey area between black and white as the colour Off-White” in Abloh’s own words. By 2014, the company’s womenswear line was launched, with collections showcased on the runways of Paris Fashion Week. The brand’s popularity continued to grow, equating to Off-White surpassing Gucci as the hottest brand in the world in 2018. 

Louis Vuitton 

On March 25th 2018, Virgil was appointed artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear line. This made him the first person of African descent to lead the brand’s menswear line, and he was one of the first black designers in the integral french fashion designer brands.  

Speaking on his position at Louis Vuitton, Abloh said;

“It is an honour for me to accept this position. I find the heritage and creative integrity of the house are key inspirations and will look to reference them both while drawing parallels to modern times.”

Abloh’s first Louis Vuitton show saw him merge his love for music with high fashion, as artists such as Kid Cudi and Playboi Carti walked the runway for the Spring 2019 menswear collection. 

Abloh’s position at Louis Vuitton marked a new chapter for fashion, as his artistic vision took the brand in a new exciting direction, subsequently inspiring other brands to be more diverse and take the same route. 

This year, Abloh presented LVHM’s Fall/Winter 2021 Menswear Collection entitled ‘Tourist vs Purist’ that took the internet by storm. A true reflection of his visions, Abloh’s collection mirrored craftsmanship synchronised with functionality, centred around performance and spoken word evoking Black consciousness.

Ikea Collaboration

Virgil put his architecture skills to use when he collaborated with IKEA in 2019 to create the ‘MARKERAD’ limited collection. The collaboration resulted in everyday items being rejuvenated into striking new styles, adding art to anonymous objects. 

Met Gala 2021

The Designer even caught everyone’s attention at the Met Gala 2021 with his otherworldly head accessory along with an asymmetric warp around his Off-White flared trouser. His suit with ‘Modernism’ written on it stole the moment encapsulating his beliefs.

Virgil Abloh believed in accelerating change by disputing the fashion industry through unconventional approaches. His long enduring battle with cancer echoed in privacy but the dedication to his craft went unwavered. He sent waves across the industry as he spread his creativity and passion across both the labels, collaborations, and runways.

Tributes 

It feels only right to end this article with some touching tributes to Virgil, honouring his everlasting legacy. 

Rest in Power and Peace, Virgil!

Words By Nadia Clasper

_{Photo Credit: Kendall Jenner Instagram}

The post Voir Honours The Legacy Of Virgil Abloh appeared first on Voir Fashion.

From Virgil Abloh’s figures of speech and tags that are apparent in his designs, to the more subtle tailoring of fashion houses like Dior, Givenchy and Azzedine Alaia, sculpture in fashion reveals the more architectural aspect of fashion, reflects symbolism in garments and gives clothes different meanings.

There are instances where fashion goes beyond the department stores and shows, and becomes wearable art and although sculptural fashion isn’t always worn everyday there are some more wearable styles that are appearing in recent fashion season’s today. For example, the sculptural designs of Demna Gvsalia’s Balenciaga.

Masks

A symbol of an anonymity, a known trope of Margiela along with the iconic tabi ‘hoof’ shoe.

Whether it be for protection, entertainment or even religious ritual the mask is just as theatrical as it is used for disguise.

The enigmatic face covering has inspired designers and artists like Alexander McQueen, Raf Simons and Kanye West.

£ 65

ZADIG&VOLTAIRE Graphic-print cotton face covering

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£ 370

AREA crystal-embellished face mask

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£ 120

MARINE SERRE Moon-print recycled-polyamide face covering

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Pleats

_{Photo Credit: Iris Van Herpen}

Issey Miyake launched a line in 1988 that featured pleats. The light, wrinkle proof garments proved versatile for everyday wear while also having movement and creating a beautiful fluidity.

This unique technology and way of making garments that have influenced the like of Christopher Kane, Jil Sander and Loewe to name a few.

Iris Van Herpen’s 2021 collection also featured that pleats that incorporated pleating in a way that resembled the gills of a mushroom.

Light fabrics and pleated designs can be a great addition to the summer wardrobe. Here are some options:

£ 390

Issey Miyake Komo Pleated Woven Top

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£ 532

Issey Miyake Pleated Long Vest

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£ 693

Sacai Pleated Mini Skirt

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£ 525

Valentino Pleated Midi Skirt in Red

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£ 1390

Valentino Pleated Midi Skirt in Purple

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Tags/Logos

Virgil Abloh acknowledges architecture with his designs, even his tags on his shoes are intentional.

His quotation marks on his garments reflect a naivety and irony. With so much logomania in clothing today and the constant advertisement of brand identity, the clothes are a refreshing take on streetwear. From his colorations with Nike, to his tenant at Louis Vuitton, everything Abloh imagines is with functionality – a modern functionality.

£ 350

OFF-WHITE C/O VIRGIL ABLOH Low-top Leather Trainers

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£ 830

OFF-WHITE C/O VIRGIL ABLOH Leather Top Handle Bag

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Oversized Coat

This oversized voluminous look is apparent in Vetement designer Demna Gvsalia’s aesthetics. Gvsalia who spent several years working at the Margiela maison often makes reference to this in his oversized proportions.

£ 3105

MAISON MARGIELA Quilted oversized shell coat

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£ 1750

BALENCIAGA Brand-print high-neck shell hooded raincoat

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Words by Hannah Fenelon

The post Is Sculptural Fashion Wearable Fashion? appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Coming back from the year ‘off’ that was 2020, Abloh declared he had turned around his visualization of what Off-White must grow into. Detaching himself from the fateful year, Abloh felt an urge to switch direction for the brand, changing path and what the brand should evolve into: “You know, I take 2020 to heart. When we were sitting at home watching the world get turned upside down, there were very, very clear guidelines on what the fashion industry was like, and what (people were) hoping it would sort of evolve to. So this is like a big deal: Essentially when fashion shows do start, how do we come back and behave? You can’t just glide over that.”

The show was evidently an exuberant reunion, an unexpected twist that was much needed to repurpose the traditional ritual of the catwalk, coupled with a show-stopping performance by MIA. What the show entailed was a considerably minimalist, luxurious yet deconstructed collection, that reimagined the foundations of a catwalk and offered an alternative perspective on how to find cohesion beyond the aesthetic values of the pieces displayed, which could almost act as a metaphor for how to find joy again after such an impetuous and turbulent time for all.

“If I were to look at my body of work, I think I’ve grown up the most in the shortest amount of time. I think it’s rebelling against the younger version of myself. And that’s the first time I’ve actually said that.”

Virgil Abloh

The decision to open couture week was spot on. Though the brand hasn’t detached itself from ready-to-wear, the evolution of the brand can be seen through the sophisticated take on the tailored skirt suits, the elegant slimline coats and two evening dresses with foam-padded hips that combined the world of menswear and womenswear without any distinction. Gendering clothes is something Abloh detests: “I’ve always believed in diversity on all ends of the spectrum. Age, gender, orientation—when it comes to representing that, you know we’re across that as best we can.”

Off-white takes a completely new approach to delivering the brand’s identity through graphics rather than solely relying on its unmistakable logo. This decision seems to elevate the brand and make it truly become competition for any other Parisian fashion house. A particular favourite of ours is the cream skirt-suit; along with the ice-blue and lavender coats, which are simply divine. The show concluded with models and Abloh applauding and dancing with MIA and her troupe of dancers. The room was filled with an uplifting sense of encouragement that radiated positivity in all directions and ended up in a chaotic explosion of joy.

Throughout the show, Abloh broadcasted talks and music from his “Imaginary FM” radio station, opened by a discussion led by Trinice McNally and Jaimee Swift. “It started over the pandemic, where I made a content stream of supporting creatives giving creatives voice, fashion, art and culture. That seemed more contemporary than just, like, models walking in a straight line, as if they’re hangers for garments to sell them, you know? I was trying to figure out how to capture my world, and put that with when people look at my clothes. To me, this content is why I exist. That’s why the brand exists. And that’s a specific point: If we said that’s what we wanted in the industry, I need to see it—not just a show that starts and ends. It can’t be vague. I think vagueness got us to where we were before. I’m older and wiser now. And that’s a magical thing.”

The vision that Virgil Abloh offers us is certainly more mature than his previous shows, defining a contemporary elegance that not many can capture. But we can’t help but wonder how well couture dresses for and outfits hovering between streetwear and workwear can be presented in a single collection. The male line wasn’t quite as loud but felt more cohesive, whereas the female proposal is undoubtedly more conceptually successful, even though the study of cuts and the choice of materials does not seem inspired by his origins as an architect, which was according to Abloh what he was trying to convey.

Words By Tommaso Donati, Graphic By Emily Chapillon

The post Off-White Fall Winter 2021: The Laboratory Of Fun appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Virgil Abloh is the multi-hyphenate designer that has partnered with Evian on the ‘Make a Rainbow’ water bottle, Nike on ‘The Ten’ range of reconstructed Nike, Air Jordan, and Converse sneakers racking up to $2,000 (£1,554) on the after-market and now, to add to this already impressive list, a 15-piece collection ‘MARKERAD’ with Swedish furniture giant IKEA.

After 2 years of teasers the highly anticipated range dropped 1 November in participating stores including the Croydon and Wembley branches and will sell whilst stock lasts. The overall concept of the collection, as stated by Abloh is taking what is often seen as mundane and giving it a fun, unexpected twist: “The ethos of the collection is to add an artful quality to anonymous objects”. This idea is clearly seen in the way the clock has the word “TEMPORARY” ($29 or £23) written across it to highlight how:

“Time never stands still. You can’t stop it, it’s an endless moment of the present. This white wall clock with a clean design encourages us to reflect about time and what it means”

…definitely not your typical IKEA product description.

Other pieces designed by the Louis Vuitton Artistic Director include the “WET GRASS” rug that is matter-of-fact in both its aesthetic and price-tag, costing only £199. The whole concept of the range was targeted towards millennials, those who are just starting out their lives, specifically those in their: “First phase of adult life, when you start making purchases for your space. Largely people grow up in their parents’ environment. They’ve never had to consider furniture. Then when they’re off on their own and have their own aesthetic, what are their first purchases? I’m interested in thinking about how those purchases are informed.”

Virgil’s inexpensive yet fashionable designs clearly bridge the gaps between designer product and the younger generation, and the cult-followed designer is functioning in-line with other brands. The French brand Vetements has done something similar in turning the mundane into the chic: think of the DHL x Vetements shirt priced at £212 released at SS15 at Fashion Week and Balenciaga’s platform Croc shoe of 2018 which cost £732 and sold out before even hitting stores. Unlike Abloh’s intentionally affordable and “democratically” priced pieces, Balenciaga and Vetements sell at much high-end price points.

As marketing tools, Abloh, Balenciaga and Vetements, clearly are tapping into brands that are familiar to a wider audience, whether an affordable furniture company, a foam shoe brand or a courier. Whilst fashion rejected logos in the past, it is clear that nowadays novelty and nostalgia is all the rage, as depicted in how designers are elevating the ordinary emblems of mass consumerism to reach a completely different audience and demographic that usually has little to do with luxury fashion.

Much like the statement white-on-white clock, the Abloh x IKEA collection is also ‘temporary’, with the rug, clock and the Mona Lisa artwork already selling out. Certain pieces of the stylishly functional range are still available to buy but we wouldn’t count on it.

Words by Hena Sharma

Graphics by Katie Janes

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