Photo Credit: Ikea X Virgil Abloh
From Virgil Abloh’s figures of speech and tags that are apparent in his designs, to the more subtle tailoring of fashion houses like Dior, Givenchy and Azzedine Alaia, sculpture in fashion reveals the more architectural aspect of fashion, reflects symbolism in garments and gives clothes different meanings.
There are instances where fashion goes beyond the department stores and shows, and becomes wearable art and although sculptural fashion isn’t always worn everyday there are some more wearable styles that are appearing in recent fashion season’s today. For example, the sculptural designs of Demna Gvsalia’s Balenciaga.
Masks
A symbol of an anonymity, a known trope of Margiela along with the iconic tabi ‘hoof’ shoe.
Whether it be for protection, entertainment or even religious ritual the mask is just as theatrical as it is used for disguise.
The enigmatic face covering has inspired designers and artists like Alexander McQueen, Raf Simons and Kanye West.
Pleats
Photo Credit: Iris Van Herpen
Issey Miyake launched a line in 1988 that featured pleats. The light, wrinkle proof garments proved versatile for everyday wear while also having movement and creating a beautiful fluidity.
This unique technology and way of making garments that have influenced the like of Christopher Kane, Jil Sander and Loewe to name a few.
Iris Van Herpen’s 2021 collection also featured that pleats that incorporated pleating in a way that resembled the gills of a mushroom.
Light fabrics and pleated designs can be a great addition to the summer wardrobe. Here are some options:
Tags/Logos
Virgil Abloh acknowledges architecture with his designs, even his tags on his shoes are intentional.
His quotation marks on his garments reflect a naivety and irony. With so much logomania in clothing today and the constant advertisement of brand identity, the clothes are a refreshing take on streetwear. From his colorations with Nike, to his tenant at Louis Vuitton, everything Abloh imagines is with functionality – a modern functionality.
Oversized Coat
This oversized voluminous look is apparent in Vetement designer Demna Gvsalia’s aesthetics. Gvsalia who spent several years working at the Margiela maison often makes reference to this in his oversized proportions.
Words by Hannah Fenelon
