Vêtements: Urban Chic Meets Nostalgic References

Vêtements lived up to its reputation for embracing chaos and culture with its “Time to Clean Up the Mess” collection. The star-studded runway opened with Travis Scott, who strode down the runway in a striking black lacquered moto suit that set the tone for the rest of the show. Anok Yai, in a mini black dress, followed closely behind, radiating confidence as she embodied the brand’s raw edge.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Gigi Hadid turned heads on the runway in a striking outfit reminiscent of Kim Kardashian’s iconic Balenciaga look. The collection, featuring a playful interpretation of urban style, included elements like packing-tape yellow ensembles adorned with DHL logos.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Marcia Cross, best known from Desperate Housewives, made a surprise appearance in a head- to-toe black ensemble, commanding the runway with poise.

The show almost ended in dramatic fashion as Anok Yai returned to close the show in a fluffy wedding dress, contrasting with the predominantly dark palette that preceded it.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Rick Owens: A Hollywood Fantasy

Rick Owens brought a cinematic flair to his SS25 collection, transforming the Palais de Tokyo into a stage for high drama. As the rain poured outside, the sun miraculously broke through, creating a fitting backdrop for Owens’ exploration of old Hollywood glamour.

This season, he invited students from Paris design schools to model, promoting inclusivity and diversity on the runway.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Owens’ collection showcased flowing silhouettes, combining ethereal elements with avant- garde designs. The models walked gracefully, despite the slippery conditions, embodying the freedom that Owens champions. From denim cutoffs to inflatable boots, the collection balanced high fashion with a spirit of rebellion, capturing the essence of Owens’ artistic vision, seen with black lentils.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Mugler: A Dark Floral Fantasy

Casey Cadwallader’s Mugler collection offered a striking contrast to the pastoral themes of previous seasons. Drawing inspiration from his gardening experiences, Cadwallader infused the collection with a sense of menace and complexity.

Cadwallader’s designs featured sharp tailoring, with sculptural details around the hips and shoulders, mimicking the bloom of a flower in a distinctly Mugler fashion.

A standout piece was a black dress that burst into a vibrant turquoise flower made from layers of organza. This season marked a return to Mugler’s roots, balancing drama with sleek, futuristic tailoring while maintaining a darkly romantic edge.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

The collection was a visual feast, emphasizing the importance of silhouette and structure while remaining true to Mugler’s roots. With a blend of elegance and edge, Cadwallader proved his ability to recontextualize the house’s legacy while paving the way for the future.

Valentino: The Return of Maximalism

Alessandro Michele‘s return to Valentino after a two-year hiatus was met with excitement and enthusiasm. The show, held at the Dojo de Paris, featured an extravagant array of looks that celebrated the designer’s flair for maximalism. The collection was a vibrant display of colors, textures, and embellishments, reminiscent of Valentino’s iconic style.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Michele drew inspiration from the house’s archives, blending references from the 60s and 80s while adding his unique twist. With an emphasis on ruffles, bows, and luxurious fabrics, the collection exuded a sense of joy and extravagance. The finale featured models adorned with statement accessories, showcasing Valentino’s commitment to a glamorous and whimsical aesthetic.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Balmain: Embracing Individuality

Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain SS25 show was a love letter to the brand’s legacy, with a focus on beauty, craftsmanship, and inclusivity. Rousteing, who has been at the helm of Balmain for over a decade, showcased his commitment to broadening fashion’s spectrum with a cast that included women of all generations. Something that definitely retentisse inside us, at Voir Magazine.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

The highlight of the show was the introduction of Balmain Beauty, with dresses and jackets adorned with hand-embroidered pearls and textures that mirrored the brand’s new fragrance bottles. This celebration of beauty was a defining moment for the brand, signaling its expansion into a broader luxury category.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Cecilie Bahnsen: Blending Nature and Whimsy

Cecilie Bahnsen‘s latest collection embraced the outdoors, featuring elements inspired by her love of nature. Collaborating with Japanese artist Takashi Homma, The North Face and Asics, Bahnsen infused her designs with a sense of whimsy and functionality while upping w-cultural references. The collection included garments that seamlessly merged fashion with practicality, showcasing a playful yet elegant aesthetic.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

The collection also featured drawstrings, technical buckles, and 3D floral motifs, adding a sense of practicality to her otherwise romantic designs. Bahnsen’s use of recycled nylon and organza showed her commitment to sustainable fashion, making this collection both beautiful and responsible.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Saint Laurent: A Tribute to Classic Elegance
Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent SS25 collection paid homage to Yves Saint Laurent

himself, drawing inspiration from the designer’s personal style.

Bella Hadid made her much-anticipated return to the runway in a sharp, double-breasted black suit, complete with a tie and thick-rimmed glasses—a clear nod to the late designer’s own style.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Impeccable tailoring, oversized aviator jackets, and bold accessories dominated the runway, with each look exuding power and precision.

Vaccarello’s ability to blend masculine tailoring with feminine details created a collection that felt strong yet elegant. The use of vibrant colors like fuchsia, kingfisher blue, and daffodil yellow added a playful touch to the otherwise structured silhouettes.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

As Paris Fashion Week SS25 comes to a close, these collections showcase the incredible diversity and creativity of today’s top designers. From Mugler’s dark romance to Valentino’s joyful maximalism, the runways were alive with innovation and individuality. Each collection left its mark, reminding us that fashion is not just about clothing—it’s about storytelling, identity, and self-expression.

Words By

The post Paris Fashion Week: Highlights from the Most Captivating Runways appeared first on Voir Fashion.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CxvmvllSaHg/

The LINO womenswear show started off in classic Owens’ doom: a demonic melody played as obsidian ensembles opened the show, the Palais de Tokyo setting shrouded in artificial fog. But as soon as colorful petals began falling from the sky, we knew something was different. Sure, they were in reference to when Roman Emperor Heliogabalus notoriously suffocated his guests with rose petals (‘I didn’t have enough of them to kill everybody’ said Owens), but an uncharacteristic positiveness was in the apocalyptic fog.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CxxR0edrXG5/?img_index=1

The distorted song revealed itself to be Diane Ross chanting ‘I still believe in love’, the fragrance from the petals pleasantly lingered, and the fog was in bright shades of pink and yellow. The inspiration behind this change was Bjork: ‘I went to (her) concert and her intelligent, life-affirming energy made me kinda embarrassed of my own mopey adolescent pessimism.’ said the designer.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CxvocnGNWIi/?img_index=2

That’s not to say that the show wasn’t Owens at its core. The opening looks established a black theme filled with skin-tight silhouettes, long leather skirts, and structural jersey draping that remained a theme throughout. Models wore alien-like black contact lenses and slicked-back hair with micro bras, oversized gloves, and shaded sunglasses. Wastlines were high and hemlines were low, complete with the brand’s signature pointed shoulders.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CxvmFCOgRHW/?img_index=10

But then entered this utopic hope. Pink, burgundy, red, and brown reiterations of the black getups appeared, with delicate wedding trains and capes substituting sheer funeral veils. Then came silk garments billowing in the wind and the ‘donut’ gowns we saw last season– puffball cylinder-shaped mini and midi dresses in toned-down pastels. It’s that same faith we had in the models, watching them brave through stairs and wind in sky-high platforms and orthopedic gladiator sandals.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CxvmFCOgRHW/?img_index=1

It was surprisingly refreshing seeing his usual structural artwork interpolated with more wearable pieces– we can’t remember the last time we saw Owens do cropped leather jackets, and his decision to use lava red is sure to bring in commercial success for the brand.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CxxAl5XNatM/

In LINO he found a cautious sanguineness, making us see the beauty present on Earth amongst his signature melancholic futurism. There was no better way to show this than by using eco-friendly recycled yarn for getups that were perfect for an ecological apocalypse. The five final looks certainly made us think of doomsday preparation: differently colored hazmat loose jumpsuits covered every inch of skin. From beginning to end, Owens urges us not to ignore the bitter and harsh reality, and yet he inspires us to find the light in the darkness.

_{Words by Alexia De Las Heras}

^{Header Image by @ssense}

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As social media yearns for the aesthetics of Quiet Luxury and as celebrities, influenced by the emerging it-girl status of Nicole Richie-Grainge, adapt to this sudden shift, certain brands have remained loyal to their flashy, bold, and statement-making pieces. With a subversive and innovative nature, these brands are renowned trailblazers and unconventional. 

Nothing quiet to see here, the following brands stand out loudly, leaving an indelible mark on the fashion industry due to their daring and avant-garde styles.

Marine Serre

In the realm of contemporary fashion, one designer stands out for her audacious, game-changing approach to aesthetics: Marine Serre. With a vision that seamlessly blends the radical and the disruptive, Serre’s designs encapsulate a fusion of feminine sensibilities, hybrid identities, and cultural inspirations. Blending vividly colourful patterned tapestries, jacquards, and brocades into patchwork outfits, her brand is synonym with revolutionary.

The distinctive Crescent logo, founding leggings, balaclavas, tops, and stockings, is part of the mix and match of colours, textures, and prints that define the brand’s visual language and create a striking visual impact. Each design exudes a spirit of rebellion, imagination, and creativity, contrasting with the minimalist nature of Quiet luxury. 

Rick Owens

 Rick Owens is enigmatic, visionary, and edgy. He defies the stablished with grunge clothing, and an aesthetics that is both daring and glamorous. His design ethos, fuelled by unbridled imagination and unwavering innovation, pulsates with the raw energy of rock ‘n’ roll rebellion. At the heart of his creations an unwavering commitment to pushing boundaries. From his signature platform black leather boots, to sequins, embellishments, and big proportions, his unique vision resonates with his rebellious spirit. 

Rick Owens emerges as a disrupt or/and a provocateur whose aesthetic is an ode to the rule-breakers and the risk-takers. There is nothing quiet about his fashion, instead his loud taste and grunge spirit are epitome of eccentricity and individuality. 

Self-Portrait

Least outrageous than the last, Self-Portrait is sophisticated but innovative and modern. Feminine and glamorous, the brand masters’ embellishments with refinement and class. Intricate details such as fishnet, embroidered with beads and sequins, add an element of luxury and opulence to the designs. Far from being classic, Self-Portrait charm lies in an inherent understanding of the feminine silhouette, creating designs that celebrate confidence and sensuality. 

Colours and textures take the centre stage in the creations. From energetic hues to muted tones, Self-Portrait’s colour choices are deliberate and strategic, contributing to the brand’s ability to create pieces that are timeless and bold. 

Vivienne Westwood

Once a provocateur, always a provocateur. Dame Vivienne Westwood created a brand based on her values: rebellion, wildness, and unapologetic political incorrectness.Today, the brand keeps her legacy of defiance by pushing aesthetic boundaries. With a trailblazing spirit deeply rooted in punk ideology, the textures and silhouettes are provoking and captivating, embodying a spirit of chaos and authenticity.

Checkered fabrics and the emblematic tartan, daring animal prints, mixed with other fun and unusual motifs are testament of the heterogeneous and playful exploration that embodies the punk spirit, and the audacious nature of this brand. A captivating mix of colours, prints, and styles, create an avant-garde wardrobe rooted in its creator’s loud stands. 

Versace

Versace reigns supreme as a beacon of subversive style, celebrated for its audacious embrace of unapologetic seduction. The hallmark of Versace’s aesthetic lies in its unwavering dedication to opulent excess. From golden accessories, such as chains and buttons, to floral embellishments and crystals, Versace crafts a narrative that is at once bold and alluring, embodying a distinctive fusion of Italian elegance and unabashed sensuality.

Its maximalism is sumptuous and daring, elegant and provocative. Since its debut, the brand has remained faithful to its codes, becoming one of the most recognisable in the industry.

_{Written By  By Carolina Benjumea} 

^{Header Image By Mia Washbrook}

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Paco Rabanne

Paris Fashion Week marked design house Paco Rabanne’s return to the runway since the passing of the founder himself. Paco Rabanne passed away just last month, making this show a particularly emotional one, as this show honoured his work and contributions to the industry. Julien Dossena decided to pay homage to the late designer by focusing on his friendship with Salvador Dali. This meant that the show featured an array of dresses with Dali’s paintings printed on them as well as some of his extravagant jewellery. 

While this may make it seem like a collection that honoured Salvador Dali more than Paco Rabanne, this was not the case. The show was unapologetically Paco, the sparkling metallic chainmail looks that have become synonymous with the brand closed the show, accentuating the late designers continuing influence on the industry. The sparkling archival looks reminded us of Paco Rabanne’s innovative designs and trademark looks, leaving the audience with this as their final thoughts from the collection.

Acne Studios

Acne Studios took the distressed look to a whole new level in their mystical show. The enchanted forest set the stage for a collection that celebrated the natural world and particularly Jonny Johansson’s childhood in Sweden. The distressed wool and crochet knits played into this natural influence along with the neutral colour palette. The ultimate manifestation of this theme came to light in the various leaf-like dresses that took to the catwalk, bringing the Swedish forest to the runway.

These natural elements and the mystical set up created a jarring juxtaposition with the distressed, almost-apocalyptic looks. The combination of these elements served to create a natural and earthy aesthetic that was far removed from the highly technological looks that we have been seeing as of late. One interesting way that this came to light was through the use of the body as a canvas, which Johansson stated was “a way to make them become a window onto nature”.

_{^{Photo Credits: Acne Studios}}

Hodakova

Hodakova’s “Conventional Collection 112303” was inspired by a humble household object, the spoon. Whether they were covering bags, dresses or creating the cups on bralettes the kitchen utensils were everywhere. Inspired by the Swedish folktale Nail Soup that tells the story of a (you guessed it) soup made from a nail, the collection celebrated ingenuity. In addition to spoons, fabric spikes covered punk-inspired skirts and dresses in a nail-like fashion.

Some of the non-spoon related looks featured elaborate tulle, sheer fabrics and intricate silhouettes. There were examples of exceptional tailoring as sleek suits took to the runway. And finally, the collection, of course, did not come without HODAKOVA’s signature buckle bags that have taken the fashion world by storm. 

Rick Owens

Rick Owens is known for the outrageous; this collection was no exception. From metallic pink puffers to sleek waist high leg slits, we saw it all in what can only be described as a maximalists’ dream. Each model took to the runway in sky-high platform boots that sagged around the leg in the way a loose-fitted trouser would; a shoe that we believe will be everywhere this Autumn/Winter. The predominantly black collection heavily played with textures and proportions creating extravagant silhouettes and shapes in the absence of colour.

While most of the looks were black, Owens injected some colour through the metallic pink and green looks in the collection that were anything but subtle. Refusing to sacrifice the playful and experimental aspects of these looks in the pursuit of colour, Rick Owens just decided to do it all. The pink sequin donut-like garments stole the show, and we cannot wait to see which celebrity is brave enough to wear one of these looks on the red carpet. 

_{^{Photo Credits: Rick Owens}}

Coperni

Coperni, always the master of a viral moment. The designer that brought us the iconic spray on dress, a moment that won Bella Hadid Model of the Year at the British Fashion Awards, has created yet another talkable moment. The show was inspired by Jean de la Fontaine’s fable ‘The Wolf and the Lamb’ fable, Coperni’s Instagram explained:

“Unlike the original fable written in the 17th century, which raises questions relating to the balance of power between the human groups that make up society, Coperni reinterprets the story and transposes it to the year of 2023 with a positive vision of the future.
The show presents Coperni’s vision which is that there is neither a dominant nor a dominated, but that mankind and machine can live in harmony.”

This inspiration was visible in the designs through the painted landscapes on jackets and the white fluffy pieces that likened the models to sheep. All in all, the collection placed a modern and urban twist on the pastoral tale. 

Even though the show featured models such as Adut Akech and Lila Moss, the star of the show was none other than Spot (or multiple Spots) the robotic dog. The Boston Dynamics robots took to the runway as aids in the storytelling, but they soon stole the show as one Spot interacted with model Rianne Van Rompaey. This particular Spot had an elongated robotic arm (or neck) that allowed the two to lock eyes before Spot began to undress the model, removing the thick blanket that wrapped around her shoulders and handing it back to her.

While critics may argue that this show along with the last were dependant on gimmicks, more concerned with going viral on social media than the clothes at hand, we feel that these moments at shows are integral in Coperni’s exploration of technology within both fashion and modern life. As Coperni said that this was a more relaxed moment following on from the magic of their spray on dress last season, we are very excited to see what they do next.

Ester Manas

Inspired by her upcoming wedding to Balthazar Delepierre, Ester Manas created a collection for the cool bride. The show took place in a church and was soundtracked by some of the most universally recognised love songs, a route that the couple will not be taking at their own wedding. The looks, however, were entirely non-traditional and non-conforming.

From two pieces to completely sheer gowns, these dresses were for the ‘it’ brides only. The diverse display of models seemed like the brides that you would be begging for a hen party invite from and you bet that we would be wearing one of the less bridal looks from the collection if we managed to bag an invite. 

_{^{Photo Credits: Ester Manas}}

Valentino

If you’re going to take one thing away from the Valentino show, let it be this: Go and buy a tie. Ties have been popping up in the fashion girls’ wardrobes for a hot minute now, but they are about to experience the Pierpaolo Piccioli effect. The collection, aptly named ‘Black Tie’, utilised the accessory on every look in some capacity. Some were styled classically, with the black tie set against a white shirt under a blazer while others were dresses with faux shirt collars and ‘ties’ that connected to the dress’ bodice. Whether a conventional depiction of the tie or not, this collection singlehandedly proved the versatility of the accessory that has often been associated with the constraints of a work or school uniform. So, go buy a tie. 

_{^{Photo Credits: Valentino}}

Zimmermann

19^th-Century Australian artist Rupert Bunny left Melbourne and settled in Paris when he married Jeanne Morel, a journey not dissimilar to Zimmermann’s. The Australian fashion house held its second show in Paris this season and drew on Bunny’s art as inspiration. The collection worked with the National Gallery of Victoria to incorporate the painter’s works into the looks through delicate prints and a romantic colour palette. Nicky Zimmermann explained: 

“For Fall I was inspired by the artwork of Rupert Bunny, an Australian artist from the turn of the last century. I was drawn to his use of colour and the romanticism of his work – the gentle and dreamy lifestyle scenes. There is a glow, warmth and optimism to his work that is really appealing to me.”

However, this is not where the melding of French and Australian fashion ends. The usual romantic eveningwear was prominent throughout the collection; however, this season featured a surprising guest, the humble denim jean. The delicate lace and florals that we are used to seeing from the design house were paired with loose fitting jeans in the perfect blending of the relaxed style we see in Australia and the romanticism of France. This collection served as a map of Zimmermann’s history as it honoured both its origin and current destination in one fell swoop.

_{^{Photo Credits: Zimmermann}}

_{Words by: Amelia Gregory}

^{Header Image: Valentino, Ester Manas, Paco Rabanne}

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Sprinkled among the guests were celebrities such as Pharrell, Hailey and Justin Bieber, Charli XCX, Naomi Campbell, Winnie Harlow, Jourdan Dunn, FKA Twigs, Alexa Chung, Lewis Hamilton, and Marcus Rashord, who all gathered to witness the immense occasion.

London’s Olympia venue was transformed into a blue-lit dystopian madness with mini-exhibitions highlighting their collaborations with Pharrell Williams, Adidas, Palm Angels, and Rick Owens. Jay-Z’s entertainment company Roc Nation also got its own platform allowing guests to record sounds that were then mixed live to create an “emotion-centred experience – because Genius lives within us all”.

Two and a half hours after the event commenced the legendary singer Alicia Keys took the stage performing hits ‘Girl On Fire’ and ‘Empire is a State of Mind’. She was joined by the nation’s favourite rapper Little Simz and R&B singer and Simz’s collaborator Cleo Sol to perform ‘Woman’. Keys wore her upcoming collaboration with Moncler performing in a stunning metallic silver trench coat with matching flares. The singer called the collection, which will be released in late March, “cool, easy, 100 percent New York – inspired by late ’90s streetwear, but with a twist”.

As always Rick Owens made a statement. After presenting his famous black maxi gowns and bulky coats in a dark smoke-filled room, he threw an outdoor afterparty complete with dancefloors and DJs.

Last September, Moncler celebrated its 70th anniversary in an equally over-the-top style when 18,000 people gathered at the Duomo di Milano in Milan to witness the performance delivered by 1952 models, musicians, and dancers (an ode to when the brand was established) dressed wearing limited-edition white Moncler Maya jackets. Oh-so fabulous.

^{Words by: Molly Sutherland}

_{Header Image: Moncler Genius, Alicia Keys}

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Louis Vuitton

The Men’s Louis Vuitton show was incredible. The brand always pulls sensational surprises out at their hat and this year’s Paris Men’s show was a top tier performance. Starting with the retro set design created by French filmmakers Michel and Olivier Gondry, the show was built for success from the get-go. Inspired by memories from their childhoods, the set was supposed to capture ‘Formative Moments’ that make up a boy ‘s initial stages of life. The set was super effective in setting the scene of the show. 

The collection came with a performance from sensation, Rosalia, which had viewers hyped. She was seen singing, dancing and parading around the runway kitted head to toe in oversized Louis Vuitton. Turning up the tempo she jumped on the retro yellow car which parked next to the pop-up home set-up. Louis Vuitton had hyped the audience before they had even debuted any of their new collection. That is how you do it, in our opinion.  

The looks lived up to the amazing atmosphere which had been created. A co-collaboration between Colm Dillane and Louis Vuitton for AW23 was evident from the moment the founder of KidSuper stepped out amongst the Louis Vuitton team. His creations included his famous artwork of patchworked faces on leather casualwear and accessories. They were super cool and vibrant, and we loved the hybrid pieces of his work merged with the Louis Vuitton monograms. Retro 70s floral prints also found their way into the looks, complimenting the set they walked through.

The items were insanely cool with lots of nods to the past evident as inspiration. The show which had models chaotically pacing through bedrooms and living rooms was made-up of almost 70 looks. Louis Vuitton covered a huge amount of ground in the collection. Surrealism was evident in the designs which made the fits super eye-catching and intriguing. War-time inspired pieces were shown on runway models such as aviator hats, piff helmet hats, leather gloves and camouflage prints which fully covered jackets and trousers. Rugged denim, biker jackets and hoods cropped up on stage as they predict to trend in AW23. Puffer styles, ribbon-tied trousers and fringe lined suit jackets also made popping appearances in the show. However, long slim-tailored coats definitely dominated the looks as well as classic cut suits.  

Rick Owens

The grungy glamour aesthetic continues its way in AW23 menswear with Rick Owen’s latest collection. A designer with a powerful story behind him, Owens managed to work his way up the fashion industry in unconventional manners. From dropping out of art school to working for knock-off production factories, he found his way to Paris where it all changed. Establishing a romantic relationship with boss at the time, Michele Lamy, she managed to give his designs exposure and so his legacy as a fashion designer began.

He has kept his rebellion roots and they are always paramount in the design of his clothing. Showcasing at Paris fashion week this year, his collection was no exception to his inspiringly classic Rick Owen’s Style. However, the collection took a ‘Victorian’ influence which was unpredicted but well-received by audience members. He stated he took inspiration from the reign of the Queen during the 19th century and wanted to show a modern take on ‘elaborate modesty’ which was so paramount at the time. Stating the significance of masking sensuality was so elaborate it almost had the opposite effect. His play with historic styles and grunge sub-culture influence created some innovative and visionary designs.

He experimented with Victorian silhouettes and pieces from the time period such as cloaks. Pencil skirts, platform gladiator boots and puffer jackets all made their way on to the runway in his full-black looks. The cow-hide spike shoulder jackets appeared one after the other and pieces were deconstructed into their simplest forms to give an experimental element to the collection. The range of looks consisted mainly of black pieces and otherwise a dark muted palette was used. Slicked hairstyles and blocked face paints added to the grunge aesthetic of the clothing.

_{Words By Erin Wilson}

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You know spring is well underway when fashion week comes to an end; Milan, London and New York have been full of gorgeous long-legged supermodels, genius designers and fashion lovers in anticipation to see what the Spring 2020 game plan is.

The make-up trends this spring are simple: glossy everything, graphic vibrant liner, extenuated (or zero) lashes and three tonnes of glitter. There are hints of pastel eyes/skin and vampy lips making a comeback too.

Let’s dive into our fav make-up masterpieces this runway season.

Let’s talk pastels. We are dribbling over these pastel eyes sliding into our lives again. Mark Fast killed it with the blown-out pastel green and yellow eyes, complimented with the always famous dewy skin and healthy pink blush. Take a look at the Cividini model who is slaying the pastel blue and purple shadow – totally wearable for every day. Ironically, Huda Beauty literally revealed a new shadow collection launch full of pastel shadows!

Another trend which took a front seat again is the vampy lips. Rick Owens definitely went to town with this trend; one model is seen with a gorgeous dark red/purple lip with a sort of dirty violet dusted on her chin and nose, complimented with a blown-out light burgundy eye. Fall looks for spring? Sign me up. Owen’s also had an iconic vampy lip with a blown-out yellow pastel eye that we’re so here for. Another designer taking a chance with the vampy lip was Courreges, put together with a seamless graphic orange liner. Our all time favourite vampy lips are, of course, MAC’s Rebel and Odyessey Lipsticks.

Ralph & Russo had a stunning display of extenuated lashes on the bottom lash-line with more graphic liner, and Antonio Marras added to the colour mix with a two-tone red eyeshadow and a stunning dark green liner. If you want to try this trend out, Colourpop’s crème gel colour eyeliners are super cheap and glide on like honey!

Our favourite look was by far the Vivetta model with a glossy two-colour lipstick, pink and red/pink, a fresh pink blush paired with this gorgeous red/pink glitter shadow on the inner tear duct, not to mention the most beautiful glowy skin on the runway! The glitter shadow of our choice has got to be Charlotte Tilbury’s Pillow Talk shadow set.

Finally, check out Frankie Morello’s model who literally looks like a glitter bomb exploded on her face! Maybe a tad too far for the everyday office look…but 100% something we need to try.

Words by Sophie Smiler

Graphics by Katie Janes

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In Rick Owens’ words: “clothes are fundamentally about sex”. Or rather, the self-expression component of fashion clothing almost definitely leans towards it. But if it’s true that the sex matrix is a leitmotiv for the fashion system and sales indexes, it can take many forms that say a lot about the sign of the times and the evolution of our society. Working in a separate way from seasonal trends, the sexuality crave in fashion will always have an audience.

The question is: is this audience interested in generating a non-conformist, daring wave like in the past, when sex took the form of outrageous looks aimed at generating an “outrage!” reaction among the prudish façade of society, or is it evolving towards embracing a more subtle, non-vulgar exaltation of a type of sexuality and femininity that can be part of our everyday life?

If in the past seasons, sex in fashion was often synonym of latex, leather, leopard print and bondage references, designers are now playing with a more minimalist version of sensuality: geometric figures sculpting and exalting the forms, a see-through approach rather than a “bare it all” mood and, most importantly, a look back to designs from the 90s, with Gianni Versace leading the way for inspiration and reminding us all of his ideal woman, which is the epitome of an audacious, never vulgar femininity.

As fashion is glancing towards a more minimalist approach, sex is also turning to its purest, almost raw representation, unadorned from excessive aesthetic constructions and constrictions. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski at Hermes saw sexuality in a leather apron matched to bare skin: the simplicity of this mannish look was the designer’s ideal of purest sexuality.

Alessandro Michele instead, introduced the world to a romanced idea of sexuality which, despite being interpreted by mistresses characters carrying whips, was subtle and left space for imagination to take over.

What Tom Ford did for Gucci and the world in the early 2000s, was demolishing a taboo and teaching us all that sex is an important aspect of the human nature, a beautiful component that needs to be celebrated. But if the pubic hair reproduction of the Gucci monogram generated mixed feelings and worked on a marketing point of view at the time, today’s audience has seen it all and is not ashamed by raw and unfiltered sexuality.

In times where little is left to the imagination and audiences are openly acquainted with all forms of sexuality, a step back to subtlety playing around the unspoken and lingering on a more intellectual, introspective and even romanced interpretation of sex might be key to winning an insatiable consumer audience that is tired of craving for sensationalism and is slowly rediscovering the simplicity and purity of flawed human nature.

So, does sex still sell? The answer is yes. It is in the human nature to look for it in every aspect of life, including fashion. It is up to designers to decipher its evolving power over the decades and interpret their own unrestrained, unfiltered version that best fits a certain sign of the times.

Words by Beatrice Buschittari

Graphics by Katie Janes

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