Layering

Layering is a trend which is effortless but gives a sophisticated look and is one that was repeatedly seen over PFW. This style gives you the opportunity to create various outfits with different items in your wardrobe, whether it’s Isabel Marant’s feminine take with a bikini top layered underneath a utility jumpsuit or Rocha’s edgy approach with a shirt underneath a leather dress. 

£ 404

Arma Sleeveless Leather Dress

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£ 395

Simone Rocha Gathered Puff-Sleeve Blouse

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£ 121

Free People Miscommunication Vegan Romper

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£ 35

And Other Stories Mock Neck Sweater

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£ 401

Isabel Marant Long-Sleeve Collarless Jumpsuit

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£ 155

Lemlem Geometric Stripe-Print Bikini Top

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£ 619

Rick Owens Contrast-Trim Mesh Maxi Dress

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£ 244

Manuel Ritz Maxi Shirt Dress

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All About The Colour

Paris’ runway was an oasis of colour this year and has inspired us to brighten up our own wardrobes. With colourful leather being a prominent trend as well as Dior’s disco-ready collection encouraging us to take a retro step and incorporate colour blocking into our outfits. Shades of blue also owned the catwalk as it was seen through various shows including Courreges and Rokh. 

£ 650

Allie McCall Low Rider Leather Dress

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£ 812

Giuseppe Di Morabito Virgin Wool Blazer

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£ 595

16ARLINGTON Davao Buckled Leather Midi Skirt

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Abstract Prints

No fashion week is complete without abstract prints and funky patterns dancing down the runway. It’s a feature which brings an outfit to life and guarantees you will be turning heads. Distinct designers including Dries Van Noten and Chloe did not disappoint in showcasing extravagant prints that will definitely be brought into the next season with us, as after over a year in lockdown we will not be holding back! 

£ 55

JADED LONDON Abstract Print Cut Out Stretch Mesh Midi Dress

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£ 395

Louisa Ballou Heatwave Printed Mesh Dress

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£ 340

AUNE COLLECTIONS Graphic Print Fitted Mesh Midi Dress

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 Cut outs

The cut-out trend is one we were happy to see return to the runway after being loved the past season. From delicately slashed necklines to the extreme cut-out waist on trousers, we saw it all this fashion week! It is a simple detail but transforms an outfit completely from basic to edgy. 

£ 290

Kenzo Mesh Panel Sleeveless Dress

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£ 182

Lovers And Friends Cindy Jumpsuit

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£ 885

Manokhi Cut-Out Leather Trousers

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£ 666.19

Ottolinger Strappy Dress Sand

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Trench Coat

The trench coat is a staple piece which is guaranteed to be worn if in your wardrobe. Across PFW this coat has appeared in a range of styles inspiring different looks, from the classic Burberry camel to vibrant baby pinks. It acts as the perfect layering piece in the Springtime when the summer heat remains in hiding and a jacket is still needed. 

£ 2365

SAINT LAURENT Belted Faux Patent Leather Trench Coat

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£ 680

Harris Wharf London Oversized Wool Trench Coat

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£ 95

JADED LONDON Patchwork PU Trench Coat

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Mesh/Sheer fabrics

Nothing screams spring/summer more than mesh fabrics exposing some skin. It can be dressed up or down and even layered for those chilly evenings. PFW saw an abundance of brands take on this trend and put their own twist on it, whether it was brightly coloured mesh or Dipetsa with their signature wet-look sheer fabric. 

£ 1285

DI PETSA Unisex Wet-Look Pants In White

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£ 460

DI PETSA Wet-Look Crop Top in White

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£ 120

Acne Studios Nylon T-Shirt

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Metallic

This year the stage was infused with the metallic trend of the 2000s as brands such as Lanvin and Rochas glistened downed the runway creating their own spotlight. Metallic fabrics are set to be the perfect going-out attire for the SS22 season and will be sure to dazzle on the dance floor. 

£ 240

Lauren Ralph Lauren Pleated Metallic Midi Skirt

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£ 349

Poster Girl Adrinne Dress

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£ 130

GAUGE81 Melun Metallic Weave Stretch Woven Mini Dress

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Tailored Sequins

Givenchy set the tone this PFW with their statement tailored sequin looks. This party-ready look is one which will never go out of fashion as it creates the ultimate glamorous and feminine look, one we can’t wait to wear. 

£ 1458

Balmain Sequinned Short Pleated Dress

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£ 435

Wolf & Badger Jennifer Midnight Dress

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£ 1950

BALMAIN Embellished Sequined Minidress

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Catsuits

As worn by Kim Kardashian at the Met Gala, the catsuit trend has taken the runway by storm this year. It’s a skin-tight, flattering attire and takes us back to 80s streetstyle. Brands such as Marine Serre went for a head to toe covered look with a psychedelic print whereas others such as Stella McCartney went for a more revealing, stylish look with a plunge neckline and cut out waist. 

£ 466

RED Valentino Point D’esprit Sheer Jumpsuit

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£ 167

X REVOLVE Mai Catsuit

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£ 76

Esteban Cortazar Cut-Out Tight-Fit Jumpsuit

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Words by Josie Cooke

_{Photo Credit: @ysl}

The post Putting PFW Runway Trends Straight Into Your Wardrobe appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Loewe

What is wearable? How do we wear garments? And how do clothes cover the body? These questions and more were prompted by Jonathon Anderson at Loewe’s Paris show in the equestrian arena of La Garde Républicaine. The show opened with a series of long bodycon dresses altered with sharp points and edges breaking out from the natural body silhouette. Hard edges and boxy forms pulled the tight, knit fabrics into unnatural and unexpected shapes. Sculptural, metal pieces and structured, detached shoulder pads separated aspects of clothing to become garments and accessories in their own right – prompting us to consider how our clothes are constructed and how can we wear each element as individual pieces? Denim jackets and trench coats were presented as back-to-front dresses, collars became strapless tops whilst sleeves opened into capes, adding movement to stiff jean fabrics. Anderson proved his ability to balance in this collection by presenting an array of possibilities that we can look forward to wearing in Spring. 

_{Photo Credits: Loewe SS/22 Runway}

Issey Miyake

Titled ‘A Voyage in Descent’, swimming and diving were vocal themes at Issey Miyake’s Spring show. The campaign video took place in what appeared to be the bottom of an empty pool. With the show lacking physical water, the movement of the ocean was replicated instead through the garments. Miyake’s signature, numerous pleats allowed the pieces to naturally sway with the model’s walk. The clothes also became part of the performance as intricate pleated dresses and skirts were constructed out of large circles, folding together to lay neatly on the ground, then picked up by the models as if unfurling paper lanterns. Easy colours of pale yellows blended with harsher grey, blue and purple tones to create gentle contrasts in the fabric of dresses. Comfort and asymmetry were further staples of Miyake’s clothes embodied in the show, with high neck dresses relaxing into loose midi skirts and black and white office wear adopting a casual look through cut-outs. Moving from neutrals, a series of dresses in large, floral patterns embodied summer. The collection included classic silhouettes expected from Miyake, returning to practicality through comfortable formal wear and athleisure in the form of biker shorts and tennis skirts.  

_{Photo Credits: Issey Miyake SS/22 Runway}

Nina Ricci

Also travelling to the sea for inspiration was Nina Ricci. Bringing together the beauty and serenity of mermaids with realities of environmental concern, the creative directors, Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh, gathered unusual fabric for this collection. Chunky netting was used for layering over trousers or wrapping around the head, whereas scuba material was reconsidered as chic coats. The different components of scuba diving, like head coverage, bodysuits, and heavy material each contributed to the collection individually. Sheer and heavy fabrics were layered together, with reveals to pops of colour created through cut-outs to mimic gaps in literal fishnets. The collection brought together a romanticised vision of the ocean through bold blues and greens, with reality through harsh materials and trapping, nets and zips covering the face.Also travelling to the sea for inspiration was Nina Ricci. Bringing together the beauty and serenity of mermaids with realities of environmental concern, the creative directors, Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh, gathered unusual fabric for this collection. Chunky netting was used for layering over trousers or wrapping around the head, whereas scuba material was reconsidered as chic coats. The different components of scuba diving, like head coverage, bodysuits, and heavy material each contributed to the collection individually. Sheer and heavy fabrics were layered together, with reveals to pops of colour created through cut-outs to mimic gaps in literal fishnets. The collection brought together a romanticised vision of the ocean through bold blues and greens, with reality through harsh materials and trapping, nets and zips covering the face.

_{Photo Credit: Nina Ricci SS/22 Runway}

Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto’s continual refusal to acknowledge the current trend cycle proves his role as one of the few anti-fashion designers remaining. Presenting a Spring/Summer collection of almost all-black looks makes a powerful statement. Opening with a series of long, black dresses of deconstructed pieces, drapery and thoughtful tailoring is recognisable Yamamoto. More constructed tailoring appears in black trench coats with an altered silhouette, creating an extra cinched waist and broader shoulders. Accents were added to the predominantly black looks through punk aesthetics, like silver chains and mismatched white, lace and leather fabrics. Three successive ballgown looks closed the runway, constructed to reveal the boning structure underneath the layered fabric. 

_{Photo Credits: Yohji Yamamoto SS/22 Runway}

Alexandre Vauthier

A refined collection of tailored suits and jackets, flowing jumpsuits and colourful fur were presented by Alexandre Vauthier for PFW. The variety of materials and patterns added excitement to the collection, with an endless possibility of silhouettes explored. A pinstriped, boxy suit was a statement look that contrasted the silky evening gowns and jumpsuits, often paired with matching boots in the same shiny fabric. Overall, the looks were directed by their fabric, producing a variety of garments all suitable for the transitional time of Spring. 

_{Photo Credit: Alexandre Vauthier SS/22 Runway}

Vivienne Westwood

Opening with New Romantic-style sleeves, loose drapery and unexpected silhouettes, Andreas Kronthaler is continuing the legacy at Vivienne Westwood. Detailed tailoring took the form of a structured latex cape-jacket merging into a baby pink, cut-out skirt. The collection moved between formal garments like oversized, suit jackets with ruffled sleeves to draped dresses, naturally covering the body. Loud patterns and bright colours also appeared throughout, with red mini dresses and deep shades of blue being repeated. Reconsidering the punk we associate with Vivienne Westwood is no easy task, but Kronthaler’s ability to remake red, black latex and fishnets into 80s style cocktail dresses proves he is continually reinspiring the house. 

_{Photo Credit: Vivienne Westwood SS/22 Runway}

Balenciaga

The collaboration we did not realise we needed was between Balenciaga and The Simpsons for their Spring collection. Marge closed the runway in a glorious gold gown, with Anna Wintour, of course, sitting front row. The physical fashion show itself expanded on what we normally expect, with red carpet attendees, editors and celebrities, becoming part of the runway. The predominant all-black looks were signature Demna, merging oversized, fine tailoring with the baggy silhouette of streetwear. Typically full-coverage was in fashion with head-to-toe skintight bodysuits and layers upon layers with oversized jackets being featured throughout the show. Demna at Balenciaga never disappoints – this show is another example of his power to reinvent what we expect of fashion whilst constantly creating chic pieces.

_{Photo Credit: Balenciaga SS/22 Runway}

Lanvin

Bruno Sialelli revisited art deco for Lanvin’s Spring show. Most striking was the dreamy colour palette of rich purple, lilac, deep greens, and navy – not our first thought of Spring, but this was a refreshing new take on Easter pastels. You can be reassured, however, that florals for Spring were still present – this time made bold and abstract, printed to resemble pop art. The collection featured interesting silhouettes from delicately pleated babydoll dresses, to a matching set of a ruffled, bubble skirt with a bralette, and several structured, oversized blazers and trenchcoats which strayed away from minimalism. Bold, bright, and fun, this collection brought Spring liveliness to the refined 1920s art deco aesthetic. 

_{Photo Credit: Lanvin SS/22 Runway}

Ludovic de Saint Sernin

The flourishing label, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, continued his sultry aesthetic for PFW. His references to desire and sexuality are explored comfortably, making lingerie wearable for the everyday. Mini dresses were stringed together with exposed threads and openings, appearing in the same manner that tights run to expose threads and make the fabric sheerer. Cropped camis also appeared in the same manner, constructed in lines to produce less coverage, rather than from one piece of fabric. Sheer matching sets and bodycon cover-ups also played into the contrast between coverage and exposure often seen at Ludovic de Saint Sernin.

_{Photo Credit: Filippo Fior/Ludovic de Saint Sernin SS/22 Runway}

Schiaparelli

Daniel Roseberry looked back to his predecessor Elsa Schiaparelli and her relationship with the Surrealists for this collection. The opening look of an incredibly wide cropped blazer with high waisted, tailored trousers immediately began to play with our perception. Umbrella hats, realistic ear motifs, and a bag with a cartoonish, sculpted face reflected the questions of reality and activated the subconscious which the Surrealists championed – Roseberry created unexpected human features and objects where we least expect them. We are also sure Freud (popular among the Surrealists) would certainly have something to say about the twisted, silk fabric which created a bra of rose-like flowers, along with a denim version of Madonna’s iconic cone bra. As wonderful and weird as the collection was, the chic tailoring and formal aesthetic of Schiaparelli was highlighted in gold detailing and classic suit silhouettes.

_{Photo Credit: Schiaparelli SS/22 Runway}

Maison Margiela

Historical and mysterious describes John Galliano’s Spring collection for Maison Margiela. The co-ed looks initially feel historical, inspired by the New Romantics – a significant reference point for John Galliano. Flamboyant, period-style references were included through elaborate hats, lace frills protruding from the shoulder of jackets, and layering of loose and androgynous garments.  Rainboots exaggerated in size, with matching rain hats certainly suggests Spring showers was thought of for this collection, rather than the typical blooming and bright Summer we expect. By travelling through different settings in the campaign video, the collection constantly feels like it is reminiscing over the past, refashioning traditional outerwear and luxury fabrics into the fashion of today.

_{Gif Credit: Maison Margiela SS/22 Runway}

Chanel

Chanel’s Spring show at PFW saw a return to the beloved 1990s aesthetic created under Karl Lagerfeld’s creative direction. Opening with swimsuits and bikinis, the dominant black and white colour palette accessorised with gold instantly recalled the rich, ornate designs of the late 1980s and 1990s. The tweed suit also was updated – constructed in a glittering, black fabric with gold trims and an elastic, cinched waist to bring hints of nightlife to a formal skirt suit. Striped pinafores, loose shift dresses, and colourful, flowing evening gowns were some of the other garments presented in both classic and updated forms, through alternative fabrics like leather used and hems shortened to become mini skirts or shorts. 

_{Photo Credit: Alessandro Lucioni/ Chanel SS/22 Runway}

Louis Vuitton

Drama and eccentricity was present at Nicolas Ghesquière’s Spring show for Louis Vuitton. A extravagant setting with elaborate chandeliers decorating the catwalk was the perfect place for a collection bringing together historic silhouettes, layered beadwork, and (surprisingly) jeans. Whilst aesthetically feeling slightly like the Mad Hatter’s tea party, Ghesquière was able to unite various period style costumes with common everyday items, like leather trenchcoats, to a create casual, wearable outfits. 

_{Photo Credit: Alessandro Lucioni for Louis Vuitton SS22}

Words by Caitlin Sahin

The post Paris Fashion Week Ends Our Fashion Run-Down With A Bang appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Victor Weinsanto

Victor Weinsanto has been a rising star during PFW, and he did not disappoint with his refreshingly authentic show. The folklore of Alsace (where he grew up) offered design inspiration for his SS22 collection as he pulled out all the stops by even asking his grandmother to sing in Alsacian dialect for the soundtrack to the show. Weinsanto also brought drama to the runway with vivid colours which brightened up the darkroom, including a distinct fuchsia. Dramatic collared capes also framed the models, keeping to the theatrical theme featuring a geometric purple cape paired with a matching dress and sheer leggings. 

Marine Serre

Marine Serre’s SS22 collection was an ode to environmentally focused living as it was Serre’s most sustainable collection yet due to it being composed of 45% recycled and 45% regenerated materials. She gave her digital film the title OSTAL 24, (meaning house in Occitan historical language spoken in Serre’s native region) as Serre wanted to create a sense of comfort within her collection. This 13-minute film featured lab coats fashioned from embroidered tablecloths and tea towels as well as catsuits and joggers in psychedelic prints. Serre’s signature styles also popped up including overdyed patchwork jeans. Within the film, the models went about their daily lives; including cooking and mediating to prove you don’t need a glamorous runway to appreciate fashion. 

Christian Dior

Christian Dior brought colour to PFW this year with their SS/22 collection. The venue underwent a 60s nightclub inspired makeover with multi-coloured flooring and a live band playing Italian disco music. The ’60s influence did not stop there though, it was evident within the collection as the runway was flooded with colour blocking A-line dresses and miniskirts alongside trapeze coats. Glittering evening looks also took to the stage following the nightclub ambience as well as mesh fabrics and extravagant bows.  

Ottolinger 

Ottolinger’s SS22 show, which took place on the Left Bank, was all about cutouts and showing off some skin. The line-up of models featured a range of body types which is not seen often across these fashion weeks as diversity was celebrated as feeling sexy and revealing skin should be enjoyed by all. Cut out necklines were spotted as well as the same detailing on trousers that wound their way down the models’ legs. Cycling short coordinates were also a staple of the show appearing in a vivid orange or a more basic white. The look that stole the show was the twisted denim outfit which included asymmetric waisted jeans and a one-sleeved jacket creating a unique look for SS/22.

Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent stormed the runway right where Paris shines the brightest as the Eiffel Tower lit up the surroundings and was the spotlight to the stage. The glistening landmark was not the only breathtaking part as the collection did not disappoint. Saint Laurent brought the glamour back to their home turf after a year and a half of being locked away. Fitted suits and blazer dresses with padded shoulder detailing made a sophisticated statement as well as elegant maxi dresses featuring the one-shoulder look and cut out detailing. Colourful accessories were also paired with these outfits, including an electric blue which was seen repeatedly. Flattering catsuits were also rocked by the models as they were seen in a floral print and a vibrant purple. 

Didu

Didu’s presentation at PFW featured cowboy accents and a range of silhouettes as Du designs her clothing around the idea that skin is a textile too and can be used in an outfit. This included deconstructed clothing such as a cut-out waist on trousers as well as the splicing detail seen on a range of tops. Backless garments were also a theme of the show as this detailing elevated the clothing to give it a classy but sexy look. Wrap over necklines were also a complimenting touch to the line, featured in a range of eye-catching colours including a fiery red and an unmissable purple. 

Rochas

Charles de Vilmorin’s Rochas collection set light to the runway as the first wave of the show featured a dark and fiery palette that seemed inspired by burning flames. There were a range of short and maxi plisse dresses featuring dark oranges and deep reds with ruffled layered details. As well as knee high boots and platform shoes which snaked their way up the leg like a burning flame. Next up in the collection was a more monochrome based theme inspired by De Vilmorin’s drawings, including puffed out skirts and flowy dresses. Lastly, there was a theme of deconstruction as materials draped around the models and cold shoulder dresses and tops hugged the models. 

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten’s SS22 collection stuck to the digital format and took a euphoric festival-inspired approach with an uplifting colour palette. The collection got us even more excited to be able to groove again next summer, especially after this fashion inspiration from them. A range of textures was used, including jacquards, silk and fake furs as lockdown prevented us from dressing in extravagant and lavish clothing so Dries Van Noten used this opportunity to go all out. This also included lively fringing dresses in colours of turquoise and orange. Depths of glimmer danced its way into the collection as well with bejewelled denim jackets and sparkling tops. 

Di Petsa

Di Petsa made a splash during this PFW as their custom wet look flooded the SS22 collection. Sheer white dresses embellished with silver jewels rippled down the models as well as low waisted midi skirts paired with a cropped top creating a glowing goddess look. Draped midi dresses were also a key part of the collection appearing in an ocean blue and a satin white featuring a feminine low back.

Acne Studios

Acne Studios SS22 show took place in a rustic setting of a loft as exposed brick and large mirrors surrounded the runway which was covered in a plush black fabric. These surroundings complimented the rich neutral colours of the collection as cream and brown leather appeared on dresses and shorts, as well as the contrasting stitch on trousers as two tones were played around with. Juxtaposing was also a key theme as punk like leather was paired with feminine chiffon shirts and delicate corset tops. Sheer shirts took to the stage as well, paired with buckled skirts delivering a fierce look. 

Balmain 

Balmain served us with an unforgettable show as Olivier Rousteing took glitz and glam to a whole other level. Rousteing was celebrating 10 years as lead designer, and he showed off his talents through a collection full of neutral and gold tones. Heavily embellished jackets dazzled the audience as well as gold chain detailed garments and cut-out, figure-hugging maxi dresses. An audio tribute by the pop queen herself, Beyonce also praised the designer and referred to Balmain as an ‘amazing tool for beauty and change’. The show ended spectacularly as Olivier showcased his most iconic designs which included a dress modelled by Naomi Campbell, who was wearing a sparkling, figure complimenting maxi number that made it a night to remember. 

Rick Owens

The ‘Prince of Darkness’ Rick Owens made a smoking appearance at PFW as his models entered the Palais de Tokyo through clouds of fog showcasing his dark yet loud SS/22 collection. Owens brought black back as the show featured a range of dark outfits including layered looks with leather jackets and black mesh garments. It was a representation of his signature aggressive aesthetic as large black platform boots also paraded down the runway. Orange coloured mesh also found its way into the collection amongst the black, layered over a cut out one piece.

Chloe

Chloe’s SS/22 show took place in a picturesque location by the River Seine, which complemented the natural beauty of the collection. Models strutted down the riverbank with elegance as angelic white dresses flew in the wind and suit co-ords made a smart statement. A muted mustard yellow was also seen on the garments to add a splash of colour to the collection, including midi skirt coordinates and floor-length trench coats. Colour was also seen on crochet detailed dresses which were embellished with shell-shaped accessories giving a beach-like vibe. 

Lecavalier 

This fashion week’s calendar marks Marie-Eve Lecavalier’s first Paris appearance with her SS22 collection. All garments featured a range of textures and patterns creating a delicate look whilst also remaining complex. Layering with shirts was also a trend seen with mesh vests and wide crochet knit stitch dresses. A handful of colours were used as Lecavalier stuck to a specific colour palette of neutrals alongside blues and reds. 

Isabel Marant

Thursday ended beautifully with Isabel Marant’s show as she continued with the beach vibes and transformed her staple feminine designs with a bikini silhouette perfect for SS22. The show was filled with energy as abstract patterns and bright colours worked hand in hand to create outfits that screamed summer. The upbeat music spoke for the lively attires which included emerald green floral co-ords and bikini tops layered over lemon yellow tops. Mini dresses and oversized jackets also appeared in shades of orange and yellow.

Words by Josie Cooke

_{Photo Credit: Rafael Pavarotti for Dries Van Noten SS/22}

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