Di Petsa

Greek designer Di Petsa channelled her recent heartbreak into one of the most talked about collections for the week. The collection took inspiration from the designers own Greek Orthadox upbringing and with Greece just finally legalizing same sex marriage, the collection was a fitting display of love.

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With high profile models like Cindy Kimberly, Duckie and Jessie Jo Stark dripping in bells – the show definitely impressed. The collection encapsulated the overall goddess theme of the Di Petsa brand, with a display of Venus being birthed on the runway mixed with their signature wet look, trompe-l’oeil illusion dresses.

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Sinead O’Dwyer

Last Season, Irish designer Sinead O’Dwyer hosted her show at her alma matter – The London Royal College of Art MA classroom. The designer chatted with a journalist as her models walked and displayed her pieces. It was a refreshing change for attendees and set excitement for her proceeding shows. 

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This year, the show was hosted at the Old Selfridges hotel, pivoting to a far more central focal point, which was a theme that seemed to extend to the clothes. The designer went back to the brands basics and expressed she focussed her design on body shape, “I design for a diverse body, that’s the thing that drives the brand.” Which we can completely identify with here at VOIR. “From the very beginning of every design, I’m thinking about those body shapes, what sort of garments they might want to wear and how I can interpret things.”

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Simone Rocha

After a jaw dropping display of mature elegance at Paris Haute Couture fashion week, Simone Rocha is riding the wave right into London. The Irish born designer seems to be on an ever-proceeding incline to becoming one of the biggest names in fashion after taking over the Jean Paul Gautier show and receiving praise from the designer himself.

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Her London Collection took a far more playful, childlike approach with models carrying stuffed animal toys as accessories. She also took the opportunity to announce yet another Rocha x Crocs collaboration, which worked perfectly with the youthful vibe of the collection. 

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JW Anderson

JW Anderson put a charming womenswear spin on the eclectic Grandpa trend that’s been circulating for the last few months. They did this by utilising chunky knits, thick wool coats, tweed, English style under garments and lots of slippers.

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Anderson cited Last of the Summer Wine, a British sit com based around old age pensioners in Yorkshire, as one of his key inspirations.  He captured this Northern aesthetic perfectly and the collection offered itself as a comfortable slice of British nostalgia.

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Dilara Findikoglu

Turkish-british Dilara Fındıkoğlu has become one of the most anticipated collections, not down to but aided by her recent success dressing Margot Robbie for the Barbie premiere after party. The designer chose to host her show in a church, which she sees as a “safe space”. 

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The much-awaited collection consisted of corsets, bodices, bright reds and deconstructed under garments. The idea behind the collection was to “destroy the corporate man “and rebel against male-built society. “I am really into the female form and as a female designer, I just need to celebrate the body,” Fındıkoğlu was reported saying.

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Dreaming Eli

Dreaming Eli is one of the designers to watch, founded by the incredibly talented Elisa Trombatore, who graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2021 with an MA in Fashion. The brand aims to empower women and fight against stereotypes through it’s designs, encouraging power in femininity as well as balancing it with power and danger. 

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Her SS24 collection was titled “Wild Hearts Bleed” and the entire collection encapsulates her the strength and beauty of femininity. The designer achieved this by using boned corsets with hard structured silhouettes, and pairing them with soft colours and delicate fabrics.

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The post LFW40: Whilst Celebrating 40 Years Of London Fashion Week, Who Stole The Show? appeared first on Voir Fashion.

The British Fashion Council have just released the finalised schedule for London Fashion Week 2023, which will as in previous years take place as a digital-physical hybrid. The event will run from Friday 17^th February to Tuesday 21^st February and showcase both womenswear and menswear designers such as Christopher Kane, Erdem, JW Anderson, Molly Goddard, Roksanda and Simone Rocha, among many more.

With over 116 participating designers, 48 catwalk shows, 22 presentations and appointments, 34 events, and 42 digital activations available on the Official Digital Hub via the London Fashion Week website, there’s plenty to look out for over the week.

Highlights include iconic British luxury brand Burberry on Monday the 20th under the new creative direction of Daniel Lee, as well as the return of womenswear designer Natasha Zinko and the brand Tata Naka. The schedule also features exciting emerging designers such as Dilara Findikoglu, KWK by KAY KWOK, Sinead Gorey and Talia Byre.

The British Fashion Council are celebrating the 30th anniversary of its internationally applauded BFC NEWGEN showcasing initiative, which spotlights London’s unique position as a global leader in nurturing creative talent. The BFC NEWGEN Show Space will return to The Old Selfridges Hotel. Participating NEWGEN designers on schedule this season include Ahluwalia, ANCUȚA SARCA, Chet Lo, Conner Ives, DI PETSA, FEBEN, LABRUM London, Leo Carlton, Nensi Dojaka, ROBYN LYNCH, Sinéad O’Dwyer, and yuhan wang.

The City Wide Celebration will also be returning this season with an exciting programme of over 450 events and activations the public can immerse themselves in. The event running and the events will run from Friday 17th to Tuesday 21st February alongside the LFW show schedule. Keep your eyes peeled for the full City Wide programme will be announced next week.

Words By: Molly Sutherland

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The post London Fashion Week Releases The February 2023 Schedule – Here’s What To Expect appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Bold and statement worthy, the volume trend has marked its territory for the upcoming season. Amongst the numerous trends spotted in the Autumn/Winter 2020 collections, the volumized look has most definitely caught our attention. Who can blame us when this trend screams the classic go big or go home!

Voluminous sleeves

It was only a matter of time before voluminous sleeves returned to the forefront, claiming its place yet again as a stylish go-to. In the Autumn/Winter 2020 show, voluminous sleeves made a strong appearance amongst many of the collections. Roksanda’s orange maxi with oversized ruffle sleeves is one of our favourites along with Richard Quinn’s bulbous sleeved dresses which rock that nostalgic 80’s feel. If you dare for more extravagance, Viktor and Rolfe display a sculptural pink dress that is sure to turn some heads. A bulging sleeve is asymmetrically paired with one of contrasting size, offering a playful approach to volume.

Bubble up

As the colder months approach, this trend offers a practical yet stylish option for the upcoming season. The catwalk featured an array of enveloping garments with outerwear and dresses offering a bubble-like protective layer. This was a strong look in J.W. Anderson’s collection consisting of spherical silhouettes inclusively wrapping around the body. At Halpern, a dress of explosive colour engulfs the wearer, leaving only the front of the legs visible. Marine Serre took the inclusive look even further with black puffy outwear that conceals around the head; practicality at its best.

Exaggerate the Hip

The Autumn/Winter shows saw an extreme exaggeration of the hips; Area and Moschino being two of the houses that utilize the look. To say that Area’s jackets and dresses accentuate from the waist would be an understatement. Area has pushed hip volume to the extreme with a bulging heart shape that protrudes from a nipped waist. Moschino similarly presents an array of long-sleeved dresses that encompass an umbrella effect around the hip. Paired with knee-high boots, we love how Moschino has merged the traditional with a modern 2020 twist.

Ruffled Volume and Tulle

When we think of tulle it is almost impossible for the words ‘puffy’ ‘big’ and ‘Molly Goddard’ not to spring to mind. We can always rely on Goddard to present some extravagant tulle pieces on the catwalk and for Autumn/Winter 2020 they are voluminous and bold yet still retain that delicate quality. A red dress consisting of ruffled tulle expands outwards and is layered over a jumper for a more casual look. We love how Goddard has paired a sense of volume and extravagance with a staple jumper. At Louis Vuitton, ruffles can also be seen amongst skirts and dresses, the sheerness of the fabric lending itself to layering. Ruffled skirts and dresses can be paired with a sheer trouser as seen in Louis Vuitton or with a checked trouser from Molly Goddard, creating a subtle layered look that is versatile for every season. Words by Brooke Savino

Graphics by Georgia Walters

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For the first time in history, London Fashion Week is going online. Organisers have announced that next month’s showcase with being entirely digital with women’s and menswear merging to create a gender-neutral showcase. The good news? We don’t need to buy a whole new wardrobe. The bad news? We can’t show off our whole new wardrobe.

The event which was meant to take place in June will feature a multimedia collection of interviews, podcasts, and digital showrooms which will be open to the public via www.londonfashionweek.co.uk meaning everyone will be able to view the collections this year, no invite needed. London is the third city to have created a virtual concept, with other cities including Shanghai and Moscow. This comes in the wake of several fashion events being cancelled such as the Met Gala in New York, the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers and Paris, and Milan’s Fashion Weeks due to the current pandemic.

London fashion week and shanghai first Virtual fashion week show

Much like every other industry, this unprecedented time has created a period of reflection and consideration with regards to the future of fashion and its’ sustainability. Fashion mogul Marc Jacobs commented on the number of shows that take place across the year branding them as unnecessary. Speaking to The Guardian, he explained: ‘’the amount of stuff we make and the quantity we make and the amount of time it’s shown is so excessive’’.

Caroline Rush, Chief Executive of the British Council explained how “the current pandemic is leading us all to reflect more poignantly on the society we live in and how we want to live our lives and build businesses when we get through this. The other side of this crisis, we hope will be about sustainability, creativity, and product that you value, respect, cherish.

By creating a cultural fashion week platform, we are adapting digital innovation to best fit our needs today and something to build on as a global showcase for the future.”

Whether you’re a fashionista or a first-timer, there will be something for everyone and the best part? You don’t need to leave your front room OR dash between shows in unbearably comfortable shoes. We reckon they’re onto something here.

Words by Grace Dembowicz

The post London Fashion Week Is Going Virtual For The First Time, Here’s Everything You Need To Know appeared first on Voir Fashion.

With another season of fashion weeks drawing to a close, and despite the somewhat sombre mood that swept the fashion capitals from New York to Paris, the Autumn/Winter 2020 catwalks offered plenty of food for thought on how to get dressed come next autumn, with a wealth of trends unfolding fresh off the runway.

Leather

Leather is a winter wardrobe mainstay season after season, but a plethora of AW20 collections explored new styles and silhouettes. Coach offered a lesson is layering leather, with colour-blocked leather culottes, midi-skirts and button-down shirts worn under pastel cardigans, oversized trench coats and shearling jackets. Hermès horse-jumping-inspired show featured supple leather ensembles in buttery shades, while Gabriela Hearst’s foray into leather came in the form of a caramel-coloured puff-sleeve leather dress.

Fringing

Fringing appeared in generous measures on the catwalks at all four fashion weeks but was particularly prevalent in Milan, where pleats were chopped up into fringe at Prada and Salvatore Ferragamo coated black dresses with golden trimmings, while Boss and Jil Sander sent iterations of silk-fringed evening dresses down their respective runways. At Bottega Veneta, Daniel Lee – arguably the most celebrated designer in the industry today – unveiled myriad shredded designs, with dresses finished with acidic lime green tassels and an updated take on the brand’s coveted woven pouch bag featuring exaggerated fringe.

Capes

The outerwear option du jour, billowing capes were ubiquitous across the four cities, with generously-cut shapes bringing a sense of sartorial drama to the catwalks. Michael Kors championed blanket dressing with an abundance of cashgora cape coats served up in cosy fabrics and warming winter colour palettes, while at JW Anderson knitted capes and layers of tinsel-trimming belled out from the shoulders of dresses.

Checks

The collective infatuation among designers for checks was unfading this season, manifesting itself in abundant iterations of tartan, gingham and heritage checks. In New York, Claudia Li’s translucent vinyl pleated-midi and blazer combination came in punchy pink gingham, while Monse dipped into mismatched tartan with skirts secured by safety pins and worn with punkish lace-up boots. Across the Atlantic at London Fashion Week, Burberry returned to its roots with remixed heritage checks in innovative cuts, and Shrimps gave the print a regal touch in a potent orange, pink and green colourway.

Chocolate Brown

Brown is the new black – at least according to the AW20 runways. Chocolatey shades are solidifying their place in the sartorial stratosphere, firmly entrenching their place in the palette of neutrals that have dominated the catwalks and streets for the past few seasons. Chocolate-coloured outerwear seems to be emerging as an autumn/winter wardrobe essential, tackled with aplomb at Victoria Beckham and Emilia Wickstead, while A.W.A.K.E Mode offered a quilted velvet version with an exaggerated collar. At Jil Sander, a bell-sleeved leather shirt with matching pants was rendered head-to-toe in the shade, while Christopher Kane swathed a pleated bra-dress from the chest down in the sweet hue.

Equestrian Trappings

An affluent array of designers paid homage to equestrian style and turning out bourgeois tailoring this season, with Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s show for Hermès plunging into the brand’s heritage for a show centred entirely around the sport. Elsewhere, Hedi Slimane continued his three-season-running ode to the ‘70s bourgeois French girl at Celine, in the form of equestrian-style knee-high boots, horse-bit belts and gold-chain accessories, this time injected with a bohemian edge, meanwhile Shrimps’ regal-inspired show was populated with tartan Victorian jackets worn with riding pants and silk foulards.

Gothic Glam

A certain darkness hung over the collections at Valentino – where floods of black replaced last season’s explosions of colour – and Anna Sui – whose horror film-inspired collection gave way to burnout velvet and vampire-esque leather – as if to reflect the sombre shadow over fashion week of the Coronavirus crisis and the ongoing conversation around fashion’s negative impact on the environment. Showgoers at Paco Rabanne witnessed a procession of decadent embellishment, ornate tapestry dresses and a play on dress as armour in the form of chain-mail dresses in a collection that explored medieval dress codes. At Rodarte, gothic glam met romanticism in eerily beautiful silhouettes that married dark energy with delicate details from puff sleeves and tiered ruffles to floral-print silks and embroidery.

Iridescence

The runways were equally awash iridescence and sparkling ensembles to lift the winter mood and see us through the party season. Rejina Pyo gave high-sheen glamour an office-attire twist, pairing a pearly puff-shouldered blouse with a sleek wool midi-skirt and knee-high boots. Others presented an inundation of red carpet-appropriate attire and party-ready bedazzled ball gowns – Julien Dossena reinterpreted Paco Rabanne’s signature chain-mail silhouette with a thread of fantastical glamour; Erdem injected a dose of 1920s glam into a silver dress decorated with tiered embroidery; and Halpern wrapped models in shimmering metallics with statement sleeves.

Words by Ruby McAuliffe

Graphics by Katie Janes

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In 2018 Moncler introduced The Genius Project. The Genius Project is the collaboration of the French Brand Moncler with genius fashion designers to release monthly collections. The project at first was deemed too ambitious for the brand as it is the first of its kind, but has since proved to be not only genius but ahead of its time. Under the slogan one house different voices, Moncler continues to expand their rosters of collaborations with today’s leading designers like Pierpaolo Piccioli, Simone Rocha and Richard queen.

During the recent Milan fashion week, we witnessed the third instalment of this project. The show seemed to blow the previous 2019 show out of the water, with even more collaborations and better art installations. The show featured 11 collaborators from great designers like to Richard Queen J W Anderson, Rick Owens to the luggage company Rimowa.

MONCLER JW ANDERSON

Moncler JW Anderson AW2020 Collection

JW Anderson the new kid on the Moncler block brings us in Moncler fashion inflation and unlike the economy, we approve. The designer recreated his archival pieces puffed up with puffer hats and scarves modelled to the tune of Claire de Lune.

MONCLER RICHARD QUINN

Moncler Richard Quinn AW2020 Collection

Richard Quinn combines the future and past with sci-fi fashion and designs of the ’60s. With his own distinct aesthetic, to produce stunning pieces that presented as a space odyssey in the 60s.

MONCLER SIMONE ROCHA

Moncler Simone Rocha AW2020 Collection

With ruffle bottoms and tulle, Simon Rocha introduces femininity to Moncler’s structured technical and functional designs.

The brand also featured with accessory brands like Rimowa, Mate.Bike and Poldo Dog Couture with incredible art installations of a bike mountain, a dog grooming salon and a wall of luggage by Rimowa.

From the shows Moncler Rimowa, Moncler Poldo Dog Couture , Moncler Simone Rocha, Moncler Mate.Bike, Moncler Hiroshi Fujiwara and Moncler Grenoble Collaborations

The Genius project was purposed as a brand to keep up with the speed of the internet age and Instagram society. The red sands of the Moncler 1952 to the horizontal modelling stage in Moncler Grenoble has provided excellent visuals for the brand to continuously stay present in the minds and social media feeds off its consumers.

Words by Precious Njoki

Graphics by Katie Janes

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Burberry, Dilara Findikoglu, David Koma, Matty Bovan, Richard Quinn, Halpern, Ashley Williams, Simone Rocha and JW Anderson AW20 Collections

As London Fashion Week draws to an end, we reflect and give you a round-up of our favourite looks and collections.

Ashley Williams

Ashley Williams AW20 Collection

Ranging from a layered green fur coat, to a satin pink gown covered in bows, Williams leaves nothing to the imagination as this collection employs a perfect combination of youthful spirit and a tongue in cheek approach to fashion.

Burberry

Burberry AW20 Collection

From leopard print and bright power suits to puffer jackets and checked corsets, Burberry’s AW20 collection has everything we need for the season, including a selection of fur trimmed coats and deconstructed rugby shirts that bring more of a new edge as Burberry also brings back its traditional print that everyone knows and loves.

David Koma

David Koma AW20 Collection

Bringing a bit of bling to the runways, David Koma captures the seemingly glamorous side of London life. Filling the room with sparkles, layered leather and velvet-boned corsets, Koma dazzles the audience with a powerfully embellished minidress that beautifully illustrates all things London, including the iconic ‘Gherkin’ building.

Dilara Findikoglu

Dilara Findikoglu AW20 Collection

Dilara Findikoglu’s AW20 collection is anything but ordinary with a hooped-skirt metallic gown covered in structured flowers, satin genie pants and various corsets paired with tights. One of her designs consisted of 3-D floral harness climbing up to the torso of the model and one was aided by a model carrying an actual cat in her arms as she descended the runway.

Erdem

Erdem AW20 Collection

From delicately beaded sheer feminine pieces, to androgynously shaped suits Erdem Moralioglu and Cecil Beaton brought a version of strong elegance to the runway accompanied by feathered head dresses and pops of turquoise and lime green.

JW Anderson

JW Anderson AW20 Collection

Jonathon Anderson brings an element of the 1920s into his AW2020 collection, with bead work, tinsel-covered garments, iridescent translucent fabrics and mirrored metallic tassels. His leather shawl-collared black over-sized suit juxtaposed the delicacy of the tinsel perfectly with such a strong silhouette.

Matty Bovan

Matty Bovan AW20 Collection

Matty Bovan’s AW20 collection pushes the boundaries on socially acceptable fashion, through his hanging curtains and hair-covered head dresses.True to form, Bovan creates a collection of weird and wonderful designs, that have no obvious narrative or order but bring a whirlwind of colour, shape and excitement to the runway this season.

Richard Quinn

Richard Quinn AW20 Collection

One of the most powerful piece form Richard Quinn’s AW20 collection is the jewelled head-to-toe armoured ensemble that reads “God Save The Quinn” across the skirt – a clear homage to Britain. The rest of the collection is a kaleidoscope of extravagantly silhouetted gowns, feathered head dresses and the iconic Quinn power shoulders.

Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha AW20 Collection

Throughout Simone Rocha’s show you see a collection of pure light streaming down the runway, consisting of cream satin, tule and wool layers. As the show progresses, darker more romantic tones begin to enter, covered in florals with rich blue, purple and red colours bleeding into the collection.

Temperley London

Temperley London AW20 Collection

Alice Temperley’s collection which was shown in her Bruton Street store was intended to bring an element of fun to London Fashion Week. Her pieces ranged from feminine vintage-style dresses, to stronger leather suits with a music-inspired print featuring multiple times throughout the collection.

Halpern

Halpern AW20 Collection

Bringing back some 80s vibes, Halpern’s AW20 collection consists of a multitude of detailed textures and prints, ranging from burnout velvet and green snake print leather to 3-D floral colours and fringed tiger print. Many of the looks were accompanied by knee-high boots and intricate face decoration.

Words by Katie Janes

Graphics by Katie Janes

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The post Our AW20 London Fashion Week Round-Up appeared first on Voir Fashion.

September 16th marked the fifth day of London Fashion Week. Day 5 had us on the edge of our seats as industry hotshots Richard Quinn and J.W. Anderson took us to a new dimension with their Spring/Summer 2020. Here’s Voir’s lowdown on some of the most iconic looks from Monday.

Burberry and Opposites Attract

Burberry’s SS20 collection took on tailoring for womenswear. Their staple trench coats of course made an appearance as did dual-toned leather jackets, classically shaped Italian suits and beige toned blazers. Riccardo Tisci’s collection juxtaposed draped dresses with sharp and sophisticated cigarette pants making his collection diverse not only in model choice, but in overall aesthetic.

Christopher Kane and Really Loving the Earth

Kane’s SS20 celebrates the beauty of nature and being an “eco-sexual”. From blown-up images of wild flowers decorating the venue walls to paisley fabric dresses, the collection truly was an ode to the summer. What particularly stood out were the fabrics used for coats and skirts – the motif screen printed from the designer’s personal photograph taken over the summer at London Fields. Other hyper-realistic prints like the sky transformed Kane’s dresses into an eco-lover’s dream.

Richard Quinn’s Maximalist Style

Quinn SS20 pushed Kane’s wild-flower prints to an extreme. He stayed true to his signature style of floral prints and maximalism both in his employment of colour and silhouettes. What particularly caught our eye was the multi-coloured hand embroidered mini dress (Look 21). The edges were lined with pearls and the tulle fabric making up the bulk of the dress was delicately embellished with sequins forming flowers.

Quinn’s extravagance continues in how he uses boning and structure to create jutting out shapes with fabric. He manipulates the hourglass figure and in a very Richard Quinn bravura, pushes the boundaries of fashion experimentation and design.

Erdem’s Kaleidoscopic Collection

Erdem SS20 continued the trend of bright and colourful florals. Each dress featured on the runway boasted acid tones in highly saturated attention-grabbing shades. It wouldn’t be surprising if the garlands put up to celebrate Mexico’s Day of the Dead were on Erdem’s moodboard this season as the resemblance between his laser-cut dresses and the bunting is uncanny.

J. W. Anderson and Blingy Bras

J.W Anderson placed crystal jewellery at the heart of his Spring/Summer spectacle. Jewelled bras and belts were staple accessories that unapologetically shone down the runway rather than being concealed under garments in traditional fashion. Much like Burberry, tailoring featured heavily in the collection, but it was the elegant fitted dresses and vibrant floral incarnations which truly stole the show and the day.

Words by Hena Sharma

Graphics by Katie Janes and Fiona Campbell

The post London Fashion Week Roundup Part 2 appeared first on Voir Fashion.

If you’re truly this summer you should get your hands on this amazing collection.

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Ashish

Ashley Williams

Burberry

David Koma

Fyodor Golan

House of Holland

JW Anderson

Marques’Almeida

Mary Katrantzou

Matty Bovan

Osman

Temperley London

TOGA

SOURCES: CATWALKING & GETTY

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