The British Fashion Council have just released the finalised schedule for London Fashion Week 2023, which will as in previous years take place as a digital-physical hybrid. The event will run from Friday 17^th February to Tuesday 21^st February and showcase both womenswear and menswear designers such as Christopher Kane, Erdem, JW Anderson, Molly Goddard, Roksanda and Simone Rocha, among many more.

With over 116 participating designers, 48 catwalk shows, 22 presentations and appointments, 34 events, and 42 digital activations available on the Official Digital Hub via the London Fashion Week website, there’s plenty to look out for over the week.

Highlights include iconic British luxury brand Burberry on Monday the 20th under the new creative direction of Daniel Lee, as well as the return of womenswear designer Natasha Zinko and the brand Tata Naka. The schedule also features exciting emerging designers such as Dilara Findikoglu, KWK by KAY KWOK, Sinead Gorey and Talia Byre.

The British Fashion Council are celebrating the 30th anniversary of its internationally applauded BFC NEWGEN showcasing initiative, which spotlights London’s unique position as a global leader in nurturing creative talent. The BFC NEWGEN Show Space will return to The Old Selfridges Hotel. Participating NEWGEN designers on schedule this season include Ahluwalia, ANCUȚA SARCA, Chet Lo, Conner Ives, DI PETSA, FEBEN, LABRUM London, Leo Carlton, Nensi Dojaka, ROBYN LYNCH, Sinéad O’Dwyer, and yuhan wang.

The City Wide Celebration will also be returning this season with an exciting programme of over 450 events and activations the public can immerse themselves in. The event running and the events will run from Friday 17th to Tuesday 21st February alongside the LFW show schedule. Keep your eyes peeled for the full City Wide programme will be announced next week.

Words By: Molly Sutherland

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Erdem

Classic fashion glamour walked the runway at Erdem’s show, with refined skirt suits, wonderfully minimalist and elegant overcoats, and dramatic show-stopping dresses with intricate lace detailing aplenty. Despite appearing dark and gothic on the surface, the show drew inspiration from a number of women deeply engrained into Berlin’s progressive spirit of the 1930s. These women were trailblazers in gender fluidity, living their lives as cross-dressers and opening lesbian bars in the midst of war.

The show helped to remind that even in the darkest of times it is ultimately love and expression of oneself that helps to power through and continue living life to the fullest, and this collection of expertly crafted garments pushed the notion even farther.

Rejina Pyo

Taking inspiration from 1920s supper clubs, Rejina Pyo’s collection was a dazzlingly vintage spectacular also taking cues from other more modern eras such as the 1970s and, particularly, from many art deco pieces that were produced in and around that period. Shades of beige were perhaps the most present colours of the show, but in no way did they feel drab, with coats, blazers, dresses, skirts and scarfs awash in the colour feeling delightfully retro and perfectly encapsulating the era from which they were inspired.

Pastel shades of purple, green and yellow added a touch more colour to proceedings in a way which was subtle and meshed well with the abundance of brown and beige. Add in some orange tinted sunglasses and you have a collection that is the epitome of vintage, and that is no bad thing.

Roksanda

If there is one word to describe this season’s Roksanda show, dramatic seems to be the most apt. There was a minimalist start to proceedings with beige jumpsuits and traditional tailoring. The show soon kicked up a gear with an increasing parade of bombastic and bizarre looks that dazzled the audience.

Deep, luscious colours soon began layering on top of each other, before the garments themselves took a huge turn to the theatrical. Huge, billowing dresses in hypnotizing colours walked alongside blazers and skirts with extreme fringing that also looked like they had been plucked straight out of a painting, whilst eventually quite possibly the most dramatic athleisure wear ever created closed out proceedings, with bold geometric prints and colours sitting alongside more traditional athleisure staples like stripes and monochrome colours and the silhouettes of the garments themselves being dramatically oversized with billowing sleeves and enormous coats. This was a true fashion journey.

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

If a Tim Burton movie were ever to jump off of the big screen and on to the catwalk THIS is what it would look like. A jaw-droppingly gothic spectacle which leaned hard into the theatrics and dramatics, whilst also taking inspiration cues from the 1980s pop punk culture of the UK, with bands such as New Romantics and Blitz Kids absolutely being present in spirit in this collection.

All of the hallmarks of classic punk were present: leather jackets blazoned with prints, ridiculously oversized blazers with colour blocking and paneling, and a vivid palette of reds and blacks often combined with vertical stripes to really finish the aesthetic off to a tee. The more gothic elements were present in the forms of swaying lace frocks, extravagant floral prints atop bomber jackets and dresses, and furry boots that were, perhaps, more fur than boot. Striking and beautiful performances were also displayed throughout the show making this theatrical bonanza one of the most spectacular and memorable shows of the season so far.

Edeline Lee

Minimalism is at the heart of Edeline Lee’s latest collection. Whilst a theatrical extravaganza is always a joy to behold, so is having a stripped back collection which really emphasises the meticulous care and attention to detail which goes into producing clothes. Minimalist in colour, with slick monochromes and warming browns, and minimalist in nature, with traditional tailoring of jackets, dresses, skirts and coats on display, this delightfully sophisticated collection strips fashion back to its core in a way which doesn’t feel stale, but instead warming and nurturing.

Words By Andrew Coyle

_{Photo Credit Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Filippo Fior}

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With another season of fashion weeks drawing to a close, and despite the somewhat sombre mood that swept the fashion capitals from New York to Paris, the Autumn/Winter 2020 catwalks offered plenty of food for thought on how to get dressed come next autumn, with a wealth of trends unfolding fresh off the runway.

Leather

Leather is a winter wardrobe mainstay season after season, but a plethora of AW20 collections explored new styles and silhouettes. Coach offered a lesson is layering leather, with colour-blocked leather culottes, midi-skirts and button-down shirts worn under pastel cardigans, oversized trench coats and shearling jackets. Hermès horse-jumping-inspired show featured supple leather ensembles in buttery shades, while Gabriela Hearst’s foray into leather came in the form of a caramel-coloured puff-sleeve leather dress.

Fringing

Fringing appeared in generous measures on the catwalks at all four fashion weeks but was particularly prevalent in Milan, where pleats were chopped up into fringe at Prada and Salvatore Ferragamo coated black dresses with golden trimmings, while Boss and Jil Sander sent iterations of silk-fringed evening dresses down their respective runways. At Bottega Veneta, Daniel Lee – arguably the most celebrated designer in the industry today – unveiled myriad shredded designs, with dresses finished with acidic lime green tassels and an updated take on the brand’s coveted woven pouch bag featuring exaggerated fringe.

Capes

The outerwear option du jour, billowing capes were ubiquitous across the four cities, with generously-cut shapes bringing a sense of sartorial drama to the catwalks. Michael Kors championed blanket dressing with an abundance of cashgora cape coats served up in cosy fabrics and warming winter colour palettes, while at JW Anderson knitted capes and layers of tinsel-trimming belled out from the shoulders of dresses.

Checks

The collective infatuation among designers for checks was unfading this season, manifesting itself in abundant iterations of tartan, gingham and heritage checks. In New York, Claudia Li’s translucent vinyl pleated-midi and blazer combination came in punchy pink gingham, while Monse dipped into mismatched tartan with skirts secured by safety pins and worn with punkish lace-up boots. Across the Atlantic at London Fashion Week, Burberry returned to its roots with remixed heritage checks in innovative cuts, and Shrimps gave the print a regal touch in a potent orange, pink and green colourway.

Chocolate Brown

Brown is the new black – at least according to the AW20 runways. Chocolatey shades are solidifying their place in the sartorial stratosphere, firmly entrenching their place in the palette of neutrals that have dominated the catwalks and streets for the past few seasons. Chocolate-coloured outerwear seems to be emerging as an autumn/winter wardrobe essential, tackled with aplomb at Victoria Beckham and Emilia Wickstead, while A.W.A.K.E Mode offered a quilted velvet version with an exaggerated collar. At Jil Sander, a bell-sleeved leather shirt with matching pants was rendered head-to-toe in the shade, while Christopher Kane swathed a pleated bra-dress from the chest down in the sweet hue.

Equestrian Trappings

An affluent array of designers paid homage to equestrian style and turning out bourgeois tailoring this season, with Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s show for Hermès plunging into the brand’s heritage for a show centred entirely around the sport. Elsewhere, Hedi Slimane continued his three-season-running ode to the ‘70s bourgeois French girl at Celine, in the form of equestrian-style knee-high boots, horse-bit belts and gold-chain accessories, this time injected with a bohemian edge, meanwhile Shrimps’ regal-inspired show was populated with tartan Victorian jackets worn with riding pants and silk foulards.

Gothic Glam

A certain darkness hung over the collections at Valentino – where floods of black replaced last season’s explosions of colour – and Anna Sui – whose horror film-inspired collection gave way to burnout velvet and vampire-esque leather – as if to reflect the sombre shadow over fashion week of the Coronavirus crisis and the ongoing conversation around fashion’s negative impact on the environment. Showgoers at Paco Rabanne witnessed a procession of decadent embellishment, ornate tapestry dresses and a play on dress as armour in the form of chain-mail dresses in a collection that explored medieval dress codes. At Rodarte, gothic glam met romanticism in eerily beautiful silhouettes that married dark energy with delicate details from puff sleeves and tiered ruffles to floral-print silks and embroidery.

Iridescence

The runways were equally awash iridescence and sparkling ensembles to lift the winter mood and see us through the party season. Rejina Pyo gave high-sheen glamour an office-attire twist, pairing a pearly puff-shouldered blouse with a sleek wool midi-skirt and knee-high boots. Others presented an inundation of red carpet-appropriate attire and party-ready bedazzled ball gowns – Julien Dossena reinterpreted Paco Rabanne’s signature chain-mail silhouette with a thread of fantastical glamour; Erdem injected a dose of 1920s glam into a silver dress decorated with tiered embroidery; and Halpern wrapped models in shimmering metallics with statement sleeves.

Words by Ruby McAuliffe

Graphics by Katie Janes

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Burberry, Dilara Findikoglu, David Koma, Matty Bovan, Richard Quinn, Halpern, Ashley Williams, Simone Rocha and JW Anderson AW20 Collections

As London Fashion Week draws to an end, we reflect and give you a round-up of our favourite looks and collections.

Ashley Williams

Ashley Williams AW20 Collection

Ranging from a layered green fur coat, to a satin pink gown covered in bows, Williams leaves nothing to the imagination as this collection employs a perfect combination of youthful spirit and a tongue in cheek approach to fashion.

Burberry

Burberry AW20 Collection

From leopard print and bright power suits to puffer jackets and checked corsets, Burberry’s AW20 collection has everything we need for the season, including a selection of fur trimmed coats and deconstructed rugby shirts that bring more of a new edge as Burberry also brings back its traditional print that everyone knows and loves.

David Koma

David Koma AW20 Collection

Bringing a bit of bling to the runways, David Koma captures the seemingly glamorous side of London life. Filling the room with sparkles, layered leather and velvet-boned corsets, Koma dazzles the audience with a powerfully embellished minidress that beautifully illustrates all things London, including the iconic ‘Gherkin’ building.

Dilara Findikoglu

Dilara Findikoglu AW20 Collection

Dilara Findikoglu’s AW20 collection is anything but ordinary with a hooped-skirt metallic gown covered in structured flowers, satin genie pants and various corsets paired with tights. One of her designs consisted of 3-D floral harness climbing up to the torso of the model and one was aided by a model carrying an actual cat in her arms as she descended the runway.

Erdem

Erdem AW20 Collection

From delicately beaded sheer feminine pieces, to androgynously shaped suits Erdem Moralioglu and Cecil Beaton brought a version of strong elegance to the runway accompanied by feathered head dresses and pops of turquoise and lime green.

JW Anderson

JW Anderson AW20 Collection

Jonathon Anderson brings an element of the 1920s into his AW2020 collection, with bead work, tinsel-covered garments, iridescent translucent fabrics and mirrored metallic tassels. His leather shawl-collared black over-sized suit juxtaposed the delicacy of the tinsel perfectly with such a strong silhouette.

Matty Bovan

Matty Bovan AW20 Collection

Matty Bovan’s AW20 collection pushes the boundaries on socially acceptable fashion, through his hanging curtains and hair-covered head dresses.True to form, Bovan creates a collection of weird and wonderful designs, that have no obvious narrative or order but bring a whirlwind of colour, shape and excitement to the runway this season.

Richard Quinn

Richard Quinn AW20 Collection

One of the most powerful piece form Richard Quinn’s AW20 collection is the jewelled head-to-toe armoured ensemble that reads “God Save The Quinn” across the skirt – a clear homage to Britain. The rest of the collection is a kaleidoscope of extravagantly silhouetted gowns, feathered head dresses and the iconic Quinn power shoulders.

Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha AW20 Collection

Throughout Simone Rocha’s show you see a collection of pure light streaming down the runway, consisting of cream satin, tule and wool layers. As the show progresses, darker more romantic tones begin to enter, covered in florals with rich blue, purple and red colours bleeding into the collection.

Temperley London

Temperley London AW20 Collection

Alice Temperley’s collection which was shown in her Bruton Street store was intended to bring an element of fun to London Fashion Week. Her pieces ranged from feminine vintage-style dresses, to stronger leather suits with a music-inspired print featuring multiple times throughout the collection.

Halpern

Halpern AW20 Collection

Bringing back some 80s vibes, Halpern’s AW20 collection consists of a multitude of detailed textures and prints, ranging from burnout velvet and green snake print leather to 3-D floral colours and fringed tiger print. Many of the looks were accompanied by knee-high boots and intricate face decoration.

Words by Katie Janes

Graphics by Katie Janes

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September 16th marked the fifth day of London Fashion Week. Day 5 had us on the edge of our seats as industry hotshots Richard Quinn and J.W. Anderson took us to a new dimension with their Spring/Summer 2020. Here’s Voir’s lowdown on some of the most iconic looks from Monday.

Burberry and Opposites Attract

Burberry’s SS20 collection took on tailoring for womenswear. Their staple trench coats of course made an appearance as did dual-toned leather jackets, classically shaped Italian suits and beige toned blazers. Riccardo Tisci’s collection juxtaposed draped dresses with sharp and sophisticated cigarette pants making his collection diverse not only in model choice, but in overall aesthetic.

Christopher Kane and Really Loving the Earth

Kane’s SS20 celebrates the beauty of nature and being an “eco-sexual”. From blown-up images of wild flowers decorating the venue walls to paisley fabric dresses, the collection truly was an ode to the summer. What particularly stood out were the fabrics used for coats and skirts – the motif screen printed from the designer’s personal photograph taken over the summer at London Fields. Other hyper-realistic prints like the sky transformed Kane’s dresses into an eco-lover’s dream.

Richard Quinn’s Maximalist Style

Quinn SS20 pushed Kane’s wild-flower prints to an extreme. He stayed true to his signature style of floral prints and maximalism both in his employment of colour and silhouettes. What particularly caught our eye was the multi-coloured hand embroidered mini dress (Look 21). The edges were lined with pearls and the tulle fabric making up the bulk of the dress was delicately embellished with sequins forming flowers.

Quinn’s extravagance continues in how he uses boning and structure to create jutting out shapes with fabric. He manipulates the hourglass figure and in a very Richard Quinn bravura, pushes the boundaries of fashion experimentation and design.

Erdem’s Kaleidoscopic Collection

Erdem SS20 continued the trend of bright and colourful florals. Each dress featured on the runway boasted acid tones in highly saturated attention-grabbing shades. It wouldn’t be surprising if the garlands put up to celebrate Mexico’s Day of the Dead were on Erdem’s moodboard this season as the resemblance between his laser-cut dresses and the bunting is uncanny.

J. W. Anderson and Blingy Bras

J.W Anderson placed crystal jewellery at the heart of his Spring/Summer spectacle. Jewelled bras and belts were staple accessories that unapologetically shone down the runway rather than being concealed under garments in traditional fashion. Much like Burberry, tailoring featured heavily in the collection, but it was the elegant fitted dresses and vibrant floral incarnations which truly stole the show and the day.

Words by Hena Sharma

Graphics by Katie Janes and Fiona Campbell

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“I loved the idea of this kind of informality and formality meeting.” Says Erdem Moralioglu on his new collection, in collaboration with H&M. Featuring the designer’s feminine womenswear, an accessories line, and a menswear collection, this collaboration is providing excitement in fashion.

Known for its ultra-feminine and floral filled womenswear, expect romantic lace, jacquard, frills, and of course Erdem’s signature floral dresses, when this collection officially drops on November 2nd. Inspiration behind the collection was personal to Erdem, with memories of his youth, the television and music, and his family members, all influencing the designs.

With an aim of creating a wardrobe that the wearer can put together and take apart, Erdem has created pieces that can also look timeless, something that fascinates the designer. As part of the collection, Erdem designed his first ever menswear line, with some of his garments passing between genders, in particular the Harris Tweed suit.

H&M’s creative advisor, Ann-Sofie Johansson, described Erdem as “a poetic addition” to the line-up of designers that the brand has already collaborated with, something that is clear to see in this collection.

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