London Fashion Week, AKA the most major fashion event in the city, has kicked off in full swing. Taking place from Friday 16th to Tuesday 20th September, over 106 top designers from the capital are showcasing their hottest Spring Summer 2023 ready-to-wear collections across a physical-digital hybrid schedule. Missed it? Don’t worry we’ve got you, here’s all you need to know from the mid-week highlights to keep you in the fashion knowhow.
Daniel W. Fletcher
Credit: Carlo Scarpato / Gorunway.com
On the eve of Fashion Week, Daniel W. Fletcher kicked off the event with a sombre show that paid tribute to Queen Elizabeth II. The ‘Stand and Deliver collection featured monochrome utilitarian-inspired tailored garments for an edgy and cool look.
Harris Reed
Marking his first staged runway, Harris Reed’s off-schedule show was a performance of high-drama, joyful glam and queer celebration of fashion. The looks included exaggerated proportions, circular shapes, shiny satins, shimmering sequins, bright colours and bold prints with a dramatic flair.
Credit: Courtesy of Harris Reed
Paul Costelloe
Starting the day, Paul Costelloe brought the rainbow with a series of bright colourful prints for his nature-inspired ‘Painter’s Palette of Dreams’ collection featuring sharp tailored wool jackets, whimsical flouncy dresses, voluminous puff sleeves and ruffles.
Bora Aksu
With banging drums, Bora Aksu turned up the volume with a whimsical collection of flouncy, ruffled, embroidered gowns fit for a 19th-century/Bridgerton look as well as an assortment of puff sleeves, lace detailing and sharp tailored jackets.
Credit: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Fashion East
Fashion East designer Karoline Vitto’s show celebrated the female body with a diverse cast. Fitting with her synonymous sexy yet edgy style, the collection featured hugging midi dresses with daring cutouts, tiny bra tops, mesh materials, leather separates and metal details.
Credit: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Harri
Part of the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN initiative for emerging talent, the Indian designer made his LFW debut showcasing his viral gravity-defying balloon trousers.
Edward Crutchley
Bold, edgy and daring, former Dior and Louis Vuitton designer Edward Crutchley brought drama to the runway with a shining collection of masculine silhouettes, loose-fits, daring cutouts, tailored jackets and voluminous ruffled gowns with metallic and glittering finishes.
Credit: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Poster Girl
Francesca Capper and Natasha Sommerville, designers behind the ‘It’ label Poster Girl, loved by the likes of Kylie Jenner, Megan Thee Stallion and Dua Lipa, unsurprisingly brought a series of seriously sexy styles including micro mini skirts, low-slung waistlines, daring cutouts and frills for a feminine take on the Y2K trend.
KNWLS
KNWLS designer Charlotte Knowles kept it sexy, edgy and laid-back with a Y2K and
utilitarian-influenced collection featuring leather-look biker jackets, micro mini skirts, low-slung waistlines, daring cutouts and metal detailing.
Credit: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Chopova Lowena
For her first runway show, Chopova Lowena channelled the punk rock aesthetic with an abstract collection named ‘Rose is a rose is a rose’ featuring bold chaotic prints, edgy mini skirts, provocative strappy bra tops and eccentric ruffles for a collection that smelled like teen spirit.
Credit: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Helena Anthony
Helena Anthony kept it sleek, smart and sophisticated with a series of seriously sharp suits with expert tailoring and classic prints for a collection ready for work.
Eudon Choi
Eudon Choi brought a show of bright bold block colours and prints with a collection of sharp tailoring, smart wide-leg trousers, breezy linen shirts, flowing skirts and sundresses fit for a sophisticated spring wardrobe.
Credit: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Masha Popova
Ukrainian-born Masha Popova has made a name for herself from her denim designs and butterfly-printed tops with A-list fans including Dua Lipa, Billie Eilish, Bella Hadid and Kylie Jenner. For her first ever runway show, Masha channelled her rage to create a collection with “dark energy” she told Vogue, with a central motif of tire treads. The line also included a strong Y2K influence with low-slung jeans, denim jackets, halter tops and mini skirts.
Credit: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Paul & Joe
In a ode to life and nature, Paul & Joe designer Sophie Mechaly’s enchanting collection featured ditsy illustrated prints, delicate embroidery, luxuriant silks and soft pastel hues in a series of feminine silhouettes such as cropped tweed co-ords, youthful playsuits and flowing maxi dresses.
Credit: Courtesy of Paul & Joe
Dilara Findikoglu
Silently taking place in the destroyed rooms of a soon-to-be-demolished 19th-century hotel, Dilara Findikoglu’s provocative yet eerie show was one to be remembered. The collection, inspired by her own personal liberation, included upcycled vintage materials, extreme distressing, exaggerated structures, sexy micro mini skirts, bodices, body-hugging midi dresses and lingerie-inspired garments showing plenty of skin.
Credit: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Huishan Zhang
Chinese-born designer Huishan Zhang showcased a series of bright colour blocks, dazzling sequins and fluffy textures for a collection of sharp tailored suit co-ords, sophisticated dresses and voluminous gowns.
Credit: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Molly Goddard
Taking place in a sports hall bringing us back to our school days, Molly Goddard brought serious drama with a soft feminine touch. The airy collection included girly ruffles, contrasting shirt jackets, voluminous tulle skirts and dresses in a bright yet romantic colour palette.
Credit: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
S.S Daley
Designer Steven Stokey-Daley, known for his soft and subtle menswear, presented a play within his show for a fluid collection of tailored garments, luxurious knitwear, nature-inspired artistic prints and relaxed fits.
Credit: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Feben
Drawing inspiration from spirituality and tarot cards, Feben’s first runway show featured her trademark twisted silk technique, playful silhouettes, beaded slips, provocative micro minis and swinging maxi skirts in a bright colour palette.
Credit: Chris Yates / Courtesy of Feben
Pam Hogg
In keeping with her synonymous punk style, Pam Hogg’s collection featured a bright array of playful puff dresses, tailored suit co-ords, paint-splattered prints and killer latex looks.
JW Anderson
Credit: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Nensi Dojaka
Sleek, sexy and chic, NEWGEN talent Nensi Dojaka’s lingerie-influenced collection of sultry sheer gowns, sequined minis, satin slips, girl-boss tailored co-ords and cool cutouts had us obsessed – even style queen Emily Ratajkowski was a fan.
Credit: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
16Arlington
The design duo, Marco Capaldo and Federica Cavenati, behind 16Arlington put on a dazzling display in keeping with the glitz and glam of the brand. The collection featured plenty of shimmering sequins, statement faux fur coats, long-length trench jackets, shining satin slips, flirty mini skirts, slim-fit maxi dresses and bold prints.
Credit: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Rejina Pyo
Taking place in a sky-high building, Rejina Pyo’s show was catered toward modern women with a collection of sleek slip dresses, chic midi skirts and relaxed tailored suits.
Credit: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
David Koma
David Koma brought an electric collection inspired by the ocean featuring starfish motifs, ropes, seashells and wavy designs on a series of sexy fits including mini dresses, skirts with thigh-high splits, micro tops and plenty of cutouts
Credit: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Halpern
As Barbie Dreamhouse celebrates its 60th anniversary this year, Michael Halpern looked to fashion icon Barbie for his latest muse. The collaborative collection saw a varied cast dressed up in flirty mini dresses and sultry gowns with an array of sequins, leopard prints, ruffles and bright colours ready for Barbie to go party.
Credit: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Yuhan Wang
Rising star Yuhan Wang looked up to the sky for inspiration to her whimsical collection featuring delicate lace and embroidery, ruffles, mini styles and draped skirts for a truly dreamy look.
Credit: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Simone Rocha
Set in the Central Criminal Court of England and Wales, known as The Old Bailey, Simone Rocha’s show was guilty of stealing our hearts. Including her first fully formed menswear line, the collection had a strong utilitarian theme with harnesses, buckles, cargo pants and bomber jackets, as well as feminine features with an edgy twist including draping skirts, eccentric puff sleeves, lace fabrics, delicate embroidery and limitless tulle ruffles.
Credit: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
ERDEM
Favourite to the royals, Erdem Moralıoğlu’s nature-inspired collection showcased a series of stunning gowns with an array of puffed skirts, ruffles, delicate prints and embroidery for romantic looks fit for a fairytale.
Credit: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Christopher Kane
Christopher Kane kept it fresh, sleek and minimal with a collection fit for a modern women’s wardrobe including satin midi skirts, chic mini dresses, sharp tailored jackets and crisp shirts.
Credit: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Words by Emily Hemsley
Header Image: @bora_aksu
