Celebrating their heritage is what inspired many designers at Saturday’s London Fashion Week shows. From Columbia to Nigeria, designers took us on a journey back to their roots (as far or close to the show’s London location as that may be).
With odes to the glamour of Bollywood through glittering embellishments or vintage sweaters tipping the hat to Camden in the late 20th century, designers showed us that what we wear is influenced by where we come from.
Nensi Dojaka
No womenswear designer provides females with the freedom to express their bodies like Nensi Dojaka. Breaking the stigma around women wearing revealing garments, Albanian designer Dojaka brought her iconic clothing characterised by sheer material, clean silhouettes, and revealing cut-outs to London Fashion Week.
With the memo that underwear can be outerwear, Dojaka sent slinky dresses and two-piece blazer sets with a provocative twist down the runway- reflecting the daring attitude of the modern woman. The clothing was featured in an array of peachy autumnal hues, perfectly imitating the colours of the season the collection is prepared for.
It wasn’t just the clothing that emphasised Dojaka’s message that any woman can and should be able to reveal their body how they wish, as models at the London show were from a range of backgrounds and had differing body shapes, but looked equally fabulous in the garments, bringing female empowerment and inclusivity to the forefront of the fearless show.
Eudon Choi
The source of your endorphin hit this week? Eudon Choi’s Autumn/ Winter 2022 show, where Korean designer Choi used tonal layers and an extensive colour palette to bring a message of ‘optimism for the future through his riveting collection.
Inspired by director Antonioni’s first coloured film, the show began with monochromatic looks in flaming red hues, before Choi layered multiple tones to produce a colour palette with an ‘aura of fantasy’. The style of the clothing channelled the swinging 60s, as Choi confirmed the trending micro-mini skirt isn’t going anywhere soon. Choi styled the looks with 1960s-esque colourful headbands and short boxy jackets. Playing on all of our emotions; the show was a journey through colour and creation.
Ahluwalia
Wittily named ‘Bollywood to Nollywood’, Ahluwalia first-ever runway show saw a fusion of Nigerian and Indian inspired garments to celebrate designer Priya Ahluwalia’s Nigerian/ Indian heritage.
With glimmering embellishments, clashing textures, and bright colours, the Vogue and I-D approved designer’s garments were an ode to old and new Bollywood/ Nollywood. Some garments were an obvious reference, with fluorescent tees featuring graphics of Bollywood movie posters, while others incorporated colourful Nigerian-style-colourful prints into
contemporary silk two-pieces; representing the brand’s vision of creating a hybrid of the past, present, and future through their designs.
Richard Quinn
From giant boxy dresses with top hats to high-shine dominatrix attire, when it came to Quinns show, it was impossible to predict what would emerge from the wings of the runway next. But his creativity and knack for surprise mean even the most fashion-forward crowd has always been astonished by the outlandish designs of Richard Quinn. Quinn’s innovative and emotive craftsmanship cultivates garments that are unique; each telling its own dramatic story.
Combining classic designs like floral prints with modern styles like oversized silhouettes, Quinn’s show was a true highlight of 2022 London Fashion Week.
Molly Goddard
Revelling in the joy of dressing up, Molly Goddard- a label known for extravagant ballgowns- brought all the frills and froth imaginable this London Fashion Week. Looking to Camden in the 80s for inspiration, Molly paired vintage-style sweaters with puffy skirts, bringing an air of 18th-century opulence to modern dressing. The London based designer’s collection saw mood-boosting colours and uniquely detailed textiles.
After Goddard admitted she wore a dress every day of the pandemic, it comes as no surprise her AW22 collection was more extra than imaginable. Ultra-platform shoes, bright shades, and intrepid gowns were showcased; reflecting the designer’s day-to-day memo that there is no such thing as overdressing.
Labrum
Paying homage to his West African heritage while incorporating the craftsmanship of his London fashion career, designer Dumbaya brought clean in cut suits embellished with floral and leather prints to the London runway.
Deemed the ‘Poetics of Movement’, the collection was yet another reference to the hardships of migration. When speaking about his collection, Dumbaya said moving to another country can ‘feel like your culture is being stripped away, explaining why the designer chose to bring a touch of West African culture to his new London home through abstract embroidery and bright coloured textiles.
Anciela
Dancing to the words of Adriann Ramirez’s poetry; Latin- British models emerged in segregated boxes; bringing human issues to the forefront of Anciela’s digital show. The collection was filled with clothing resembling traditional Columbian attire, including ruffled shoulders, sculptural dresses, and pinstripe suits.
The show was a gesture to Anciela owner Jennifer Drouett’s Columbian home, the set and garments were adorned with flowers to reminisce The Columbian Flower Festival. The show portrayed how the weight of beauty changes in a different environment. The dimmed lighting indicated the struggles of moving countries as a migrant, so did the dark clothing contrasting the happy sunlight yellow-hued garments when the models were at home. Anciela brought sharp tailoring with an important message relevant to the ongoing migrant crisis to London Fashion Week.
Halpern
Keeping it silky, sultry and sleek, Micheal Halpern used brick fringing to cultivate a
collection of charming evening wear garments for the elegant modern woman. Tweed
suits, silk dresses, and outlandish bridal looks all gave the collection a timeless and
classic aura- reminiscent of the wardrobes of old Hollywood actresses like Audrey
The timeless pieces were given a modern twist with shortened hemlines and material
cutouts, bringing old Hollywood to the 2020s.
Words By Olivia Booth
