Vêtements: Urban Chic Meets Nostalgic References

Vêtements lived up to its reputation for embracing chaos and culture with its “Time to Clean Up the Mess” collection. The star-studded runway opened with Travis Scott, who strode down the runway in a striking black lacquered moto suit that set the tone for the rest of the show. Anok Yai, in a mini black dress, followed closely behind, radiating confidence as she embodied the brand’s raw edge.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Gigi Hadid turned heads on the runway in a striking outfit reminiscent of Kim Kardashian’s iconic Balenciaga look. The collection, featuring a playful interpretation of urban style, included elements like packing-tape yellow ensembles adorned with DHL logos.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Marcia Cross, best known from Desperate Housewives, made a surprise appearance in a head- to-toe black ensemble, commanding the runway with poise.

The show almost ended in dramatic fashion as Anok Yai returned to close the show in a fluffy wedding dress, contrasting with the predominantly dark palette that preceded it.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Rick Owens: A Hollywood Fantasy

Rick Owens brought a cinematic flair to his SS25 collection, transforming the Palais de Tokyo into a stage for high drama. As the rain poured outside, the sun miraculously broke through, creating a fitting backdrop for Owens’ exploration of old Hollywood glamour.

This season, he invited students from Paris design schools to model, promoting inclusivity and diversity on the runway.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Owens’ collection showcased flowing silhouettes, combining ethereal elements with avant- garde designs. The models walked gracefully, despite the slippery conditions, embodying the freedom that Owens champions. From denim cutoffs to inflatable boots, the collection balanced high fashion with a spirit of rebellion, capturing the essence of Owens’ artistic vision, seen with black lentils.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Mugler: A Dark Floral Fantasy

Casey Cadwallader’s Mugler collection offered a striking contrast to the pastoral themes of previous seasons. Drawing inspiration from his gardening experiences, Cadwallader infused the collection with a sense of menace and complexity.

Cadwallader’s designs featured sharp tailoring, with sculptural details around the hips and shoulders, mimicking the bloom of a flower in a distinctly Mugler fashion.

A standout piece was a black dress that burst into a vibrant turquoise flower made from layers of organza. This season marked a return to Mugler’s roots, balancing drama with sleek, futuristic tailoring while maintaining a darkly romantic edge.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

The collection was a visual feast, emphasizing the importance of silhouette and structure while remaining true to Mugler’s roots. With a blend of elegance and edge, Cadwallader proved his ability to recontextualize the house’s legacy while paving the way for the future.

Valentino: The Return of Maximalism

Alessandro Michele‘s return to Valentino after a two-year hiatus was met with excitement and enthusiasm. The show, held at the Dojo de Paris, featured an extravagant array of looks that celebrated the designer’s flair for maximalism. The collection was a vibrant display of colors, textures, and embellishments, reminiscent of Valentino’s iconic style.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Michele drew inspiration from the house’s archives, blending references from the 60s and 80s while adding his unique twist. With an emphasis on ruffles, bows, and luxurious fabrics, the collection exuded a sense of joy and extravagance. The finale featured models adorned with statement accessories, showcasing Valentino’s commitment to a glamorous and whimsical aesthetic.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Balmain: Embracing Individuality

Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain SS25 show was a love letter to the brand’s legacy, with a focus on beauty, craftsmanship, and inclusivity. Rousteing, who has been at the helm of Balmain for over a decade, showcased his commitment to broadening fashion’s spectrum with a cast that included women of all generations. Something that definitely retentisse inside us, at Voir Magazine.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

The highlight of the show was the introduction of Balmain Beauty, with dresses and jackets adorned with hand-embroidered pearls and textures that mirrored the brand’s new fragrance bottles. This celebration of beauty was a defining moment for the brand, signaling its expansion into a broader luxury category.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Cecilie Bahnsen: Blending Nature and Whimsy

Cecilie Bahnsen‘s latest collection embraced the outdoors, featuring elements inspired by her love of nature. Collaborating with Japanese artist Takashi Homma, The North Face and Asics, Bahnsen infused her designs with a sense of whimsy and functionality while upping w-cultural references. The collection included garments that seamlessly merged fashion with practicality, showcasing a playful yet elegant aesthetic.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

The collection also featured drawstrings, technical buckles, and 3D floral motifs, adding a sense of practicality to her otherwise romantic designs. Bahnsen’s use of recycled nylon and organza showed her commitment to sustainable fashion, making this collection both beautiful and responsible.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Saint Laurent: A Tribute to Classic Elegance
Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent SS25 collection paid homage to Yves Saint Laurent

himself, drawing inspiration from the designer’s personal style.

Bella Hadid made her much-anticipated return to the runway in a sharp, double-breasted black suit, complete with a tie and thick-rimmed glasses—a clear nod to the late designer’s own style.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Impeccable tailoring, oversized aviator jackets, and bold accessories dominated the runway, with each look exuding power and precision.

Vaccarello’s ability to blend masculine tailoring with feminine details created a collection that felt strong yet elegant. The use of vibrant colors like fuchsia, kingfisher blue, and daffodil yellow added a playful touch to the otherwise structured silhouettes.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

As Paris Fashion Week SS25 comes to a close, these collections showcase the incredible diversity and creativity of today’s top designers. From Mugler’s dark romance to Valentino’s joyful maximalism, the runways were alive with innovation and individuality. Each collection left its mark, reminding us that fashion is not just about clothing—it’s about storytelling, identity, and self-expression.

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The post Paris Fashion Week: Highlights from the Most Captivating Runways appeared first on Voir Fashion.

From Virgil Abloh’s figures of speech and tags that are apparent in his designs, to the more subtle tailoring of fashion houses like Dior, Givenchy and Azzedine Alaia, sculpture in fashion reveals the more architectural aspect of fashion, reflects symbolism in garments and gives clothes different meanings.

There are instances where fashion goes beyond the department stores and shows, and becomes wearable art and although sculptural fashion isn’t always worn everyday there are some more wearable styles that are appearing in recent fashion season’s today. For example, the sculptural designs of Demna Gvsalia’s Balenciaga.

Masks

A symbol of an anonymity, a known trope of Margiela along with the iconic tabi ‘hoof’ shoe.

Whether it be for protection, entertainment or even religious ritual the mask is just as theatrical as it is used for disguise.

The enigmatic face covering has inspired designers and artists like Alexander McQueen, Raf Simons and Kanye West.

£ 65

ZADIG&VOLTAIRE Graphic-print cotton face covering

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£ 370

AREA crystal-embellished face mask

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£ 120

MARINE SERRE Moon-print recycled-polyamide face covering

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Pleats

_{Photo Credit: Iris Van Herpen}

Issey Miyake launched a line in 1988 that featured pleats. The light, wrinkle proof garments proved versatile for everyday wear while also having movement and creating a beautiful fluidity.

This unique technology and way of making garments that have influenced the like of Christopher Kane, Jil Sander and Loewe to name a few.

Iris Van Herpen’s 2021 collection also featured that pleats that incorporated pleating in a way that resembled the gills of a mushroom.

Light fabrics and pleated designs can be a great addition to the summer wardrobe. Here are some options:

£ 390

Issey Miyake Komo Pleated Woven Top

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£ 532

Issey Miyake Pleated Long Vest

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£ 693

Sacai Pleated Mini Skirt

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£ 525

Valentino Pleated Midi Skirt in Red

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£ 1390

Valentino Pleated Midi Skirt in Purple

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Tags/Logos

Virgil Abloh acknowledges architecture with his designs, even his tags on his shoes are intentional.

His quotation marks on his garments reflect a naivety and irony. With so much logomania in clothing today and the constant advertisement of brand identity, the clothes are a refreshing take on streetwear. From his colorations with Nike, to his tenant at Louis Vuitton, everything Abloh imagines is with functionality – a modern functionality.

£ 350

OFF-WHITE C/O VIRGIL ABLOH Low-top Leather Trainers

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£ 830

OFF-WHITE C/O VIRGIL ABLOH Leather Top Handle Bag

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Oversized Coat

This oversized voluminous look is apparent in Vetement designer Demna Gvsalia’s aesthetics. Gvsalia who spent several years working at the Margiela maison often makes reference to this in his oversized proportions.

£ 3105

MAISON MARGIELA Quilted oversized shell coat

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£ 1750

BALENCIAGA Brand-print high-neck shell hooded raincoat

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Words by Hannah Fenelon

The post Is Sculptural Fashion Wearable Fashion? appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Guram Gvasalia unveils the new secret project VTMNTS for Spring Summer 2022

From the rib of Vetements was born VTMNTS and the new Instagram profile @vtmnts_project – a new label by Guram Gvasalia, brother and co-founder together with Demna Gvasalia of the brand, who wants to reflect on the meritocratic reasons for the success of the brands. Nowadays, in order to have a place in the world’s fashion system, brands need to involve celebrities, bloggers and influencers with their collections. For VTMNTS it will clearly be the opposite. For them it is necessary to shuffle the cards in the table, reposition the counters to zero and create new rules.

“Our first project is called VTMNTS. It is a completely separate entity that is linked to the main project only by sharing some resources and know-how. We are starting VTMNTS with 100 looks in our first season. The number of looks is symbolically chosen to show our 100% commitment in the fashion industry. We want to make this industry a better place!” Guram Gvasalia.

At the end of April, The Fashion Law has announced the introduction of Vetements by registering applications related to the name Vtmnts. The use of the wording would be intended for any product category, from clothing to accessories through eyewear, jewellery, fragrances and the retail sector, and therefore, the brand would become of global scale in the near future. Among the intellectual property offices involved with this, there is also the Italian one, along with requests made in the United States, Singapore, the European Union and other countries. To date, however, there is no confirmation that this is the same project for the Guram Gvasalia founded and beloved brand.

The range, nicknamed XXX, differs from the usual tight and cut silhouettes of Vetements that we were used to, with a series of sets pleasantly proportioned to the body. Obviously always staying true to the design codes of his parent label. Leather blazers, experimental trousers, philosophical graphics, tight tops and futuristic glasses follow one another during the presentation. The new inaugural line of VTMNTS provides a valid and concrete alternative to the most advanced offers of Vetements.

The brand also offers a slew of youthful T-shirts, some with collegial motifs and others with frontal pronouns (“Them/Them”, “Her/Her” and “Him/Him”) in bold. Several iterations play with an all-over barcode fabric.

The brand’s name itself wants to enhance the clothes themselves, forgetting the superstructures covered and already traced, but at the same time it is a tribute to the origins of the brand, which certainly are not to be forgotten. A real mental and creative process that tends almost to self-denial.

“Everything has its time. It seemed to us that it was time to do something new in the industry. Time to give birth to a new brand.”

The goal of Guram Gvasalia is a return to order, enhancing the purchases of consumers with high quality garments, made with the best materials and all the necessary attention to detail. A new mission, bold and conscious, that wants to educate the new generations to buy with an eye to rejecting the mass market systems.

Another area of reflection is on logomania. Today we live in a time when the logos of the brands exhibited above the garments attract buyers more than garments with hidden labels inside them. That’s why the logo is replaced with a new badge, a barcode. VTMNTS is a brand for all kinds and deliberately positioned as a silent luxury brand because it is destined to survive in time. Last but not least, the items will only be available for sale: “It is so belittling to buy from brands that send gifts to the left and right. When you see someone wearing it – it means they bought it!”

In addition to their latest fashion collection, VTMNTS is preparing to offer financial aid and various other charitable initiatives, although at the moment the brand has not presented its plans to implement these projects.

Words by Tommaso Donatti

The post What Vetements Latest Venture Says About Fashion For 2022 appeared first on Voir Fashion.

VETEMENTS

Lighter-heel sock boots

£1,440.00

Available at Selfridges

PERCOSSI PAPI

Topaz and orange zircon drop earrings

£885.00

Available at Selfridges

VALENTINO

MINK FUR ROCKSTUD CHAIN BAG

£2,485.00

Available at Flannels

BALMAIN

Tiger cotton and silk-blend bandana

£195.00

Available at Selfridges

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

PIGALLE HEELS

£525.00

Available at Flannels

GUCCI

SYLVIE ANIMAL STUDS LEATHER TOP HANDLE BAG

£2,250.00

Available at Flannels

MULBERRY

Portrait ring

£195.00

Available at Selfridges

DOLCE & GABBANA

VALLEY ROSE HEELED SANDALS

£1,100.00

Available at Flannels

BURBERRY

Buckle ruffle leather patchwork shoulder bag

£2,195.00

Available at Selfridges

GUCCI

FRAME PRINT LEATHER TOP HANDLE BAG

£3,230.00

Available at Flannels

GUCCI

Amoire Tiger printed silk scarf

£310.00

Available at Harvey Nichols

GIVENCHY

White fur-embellished leather trainers

£690.00

Available at Harvey Nichols

LILLY E VIOLETTA

Grey fox fur scarf

£1,250.00

Available at Harvey Nichols

The post Editors Pick: Turning the other Chic appeared first on Voir Fashion.