Hedi Slimane’s AW19 runway at Celine unveiled a collection that transcended the lines between the controversial ‘new Celine’ signalled by Phoebe Philo’s successor, and ‘old Celine’, embodied by an archetypal French bourgeois dressing.

There is only one thing I seem to want to buy this season. The pieces I’m drawn to in shops, the pieces that stand out to me in magazines, the pieces I’m inclined to compliment at the office, all seem to have one thing in common: checks.

My current eye for checked attire undoubtedly traces back to earlier this year, to March 1st to be precise, when Hedi Slimane’s AW19 runway at Celine unveiled a collection that transcended the lines between the controversial ‘new Celine’ signalled by Phoebe Philo’s successor, and ‘old Celine’, embodied by an archetypal French bourgeois dressing.

An overwhelming feeling of ‘too much fashion’ swept the recent SS20 runways in New York London, Paris and Milan, the pressing issue of sustainability and the questions arising linked to fashion’s detrimental ecological impact giving rise to a wave of streamlined collections of non-trends and versatile wardrobe staples. Slimane’s return to Celine’s non-fashion origins back in spring seemed to be in some ways a reflection of this same message, at once an homage to the quintessential French bourgeois woman’s wardrobe and an appreciation of timeless staple pieces embedded with a glamorous yet wonderfully wearable allure. And no less than 18 of the looks that graced the runway featured some form of tweed or check-patterned clothing, the majority of them essentially a slightly differentiated take on a singular uniform built upon a foundation of a country-check pleated midi skirt, accessorised with printed silk foulards, glossy knee-high boots and horse-bit belts.

The beauty of trends and prints from previous decades making a comeback is that you don’t need to buy or consume anything new to wear them. You’ll find a plethora of checked blazers and skirts in charity shops and vintage stores

The seventies Parisian bourgeois-meets-British countryside aesthetic renaissance headed by Celine also swept the AW19 catwalks at Tory Burch, Chloé and Max Mara. Its ubiquity on the runways and consequent pervasion into high street stores arguably makes checked clothing a trend, but its pulling power lies in its nostalgic history – an ode to a time before trends became the swift one-in, one-out cycle that they are today, – as a timeless classic that works season after season. It slides perfectly into the broader 70s revival alongside conventional country-inspired accessories among the likes of equestrian-style boots and belts, vintage-luxe-inspired gold chain jewellery and classic tailoring.

The beauty of trends and prints from previous decades making a comeback is that you don’t need to buy or consume anything new to wear them. You’ll find a plethora of checked blazers and skirts in charity shops and vintage stores – my work colleague found a £6 vintage St Michael’s (Marks and Spencer’s old clothing brand) tweed blazer that I’m insanely jealous of in a charity shop, while I invested in a second-hand Miu Miu checked A-line skirt in a resale store in Paris.

Some of the trends we see on the runways can seem too unwearable, too niche or too out of reach for the everyday, but checks are an ode to the quotidien, the perfect source of office-dressing inspiration. A checked overcoat or blazer with gold toggle hardware is the perfect subtle yet trendy addition to a monochrome office ensemble, paired with polished pearls and loafers that look as if they’ve been plucked from a Parisian boutique. A tweed skirt with an over-the-knee hemline works wonders with a satin blouse, silk scarf and a pair of mid-heels. Warm and neutral colour palettes, dominated by brown and beige hues, mean they fit effortlessly into winter- and workwear-wardrobes that, even if they seem to be having a particular moment right now, never tire year after year.

Words by Ruby McAuliffe

Graphics by Katie Janes

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The post Check Mate: Celine, Countryside Tweed And The 70s Bourgeois French Girl appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Fashion writing comes in all shapes and sizes, but anyone who opens a trend analysis with

“Move over Pretty, there’s a new girl in town and she’s riding the crest of cool…..”

has in my eyes, already entered the vaults of fashion eloquence.

Step forward Voir’s very own Sarah Holden, gifted in the art of trend journalism, and poised, ready to deliver seasonal trend reports to the eager fashion devotee. Autumn/Winter 2013 was a memorable season, and rather than dissect Ms Holden’s offering, here is the entire article uncut for you to savour.

Hip&Runway

Move over Pretty, there’s a new girl in town and she’s riding the crest of cool….

There’s been a definite shift in the fashion mainstream this season whereby functional became cool again, street became catwalk and an unprecious approach to dressing up took pole position. Cool is the new chic, grunge is the new polished and sultry femininity took a master class from the boys.

His and hers

Unisex cuts both ways this season. Whereby his was only formerly hers, oversized unisex sweatshirts and bomber jackets seen at Kenzo, Givenchy and Saint Laurent marked a style revolution for both men and women. Not just confined to street couture the trend worked it’s way through the androgynous tailoring that stormed the same catwalks where even the most masculine of cuts boasted a feminine allure from the skinny zipped leathers at Saint Laurent, the outsized frock coats and tux jackets at Victoria Beckham and Stella McCartney and the sporty-luxe tailoring at Elizabeth and James.

Tartan Army

Tartan, plaid and fantasy checks marked a mood shift from minimal to maximal as fashion’s new tartan armies took charge of the catwalks this season.

The traditional McQueen tartan was reworked with a contemporary spin whilst Stella McCartney and Céline cut an oversized silhouette from colourful combinations of Tartania. More than a fleeting trend, check-mania was also a firm favourite on the catwalks for spring and summer 2014 cast in zesty palettes on the catwalks of Céline and Carven and contrasted with painterly prints, bold graphics and feminine florals.

All Weather Leather

‘Leather forever’ is the style mantra of the fash pack each and every season and autumn winter’s offerings came in their edgy droves- zip embellished mini skirts from Saint Laurent, stretch-leather skinnies from Les Chiffoniers and those to-die-for suede and leather trousers, sheepskin coats and biker jackets from Isabel Marant and Balenciaga, worn with the lightest of chiffon layers, sultry lace and heavily embellished counterparts for evening.

Fast-forward to spring and summer and all weather leather was hitting fashion’s highest notes thanks to modern advancements in leatherworks – think pastel shades and feather-light options guaranteed to add a grunge-luxe edge to even the most polished of looks.

Great Lengths

Designers went to extreme proportions this season to deliver those great(er) lengths, mini and maxi proportions. Supersized knits versus super skinny trousers, hemlines hit the calf, jeans were given the crop and even accessories came under and oversized.

As heels came down, tops went up to reveal a fashion’s newest erogenous zone – the midriff, another style keeper to ‘bare’ in mind for SS14 and the biggest trend in arm candy came from the ‘mini’ bags that emulated their supersized predecessors seen at Givenchy, Saint Laurent and Balenciaga to take from day to night • Sarah Holden

To enjoy more from AW13 season, click here

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