_{https://www.instagram.com/p/C7opwYktWOA/?hl=en&img_index=3}

BFC Chief Executive, Caroline Rush, shares her thoughts on LFW40: “As we continue our celebrations of LFW40, we are thrilled to share a new concept for LFW June which will amplify our designers and promote the diverse menswear businesses, from streetwear to Savile Row, as well as retail in the city. We will celebrate and pay homage to some of the cultures which contribute so much to the UK fashion industry, the aim is to build on this with different cultures each year.“

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She goes on to say “The new format is a direct result of the conversations we are continuously having with the BFC community (designers, media, UK, and international retailers). We want to ensure we are recognising the business needs of our designers and providing them with a global showcasing platform which is both relevant and beneficial. This iteration of LFW is a really exciting opportunity to future proof and innovate the UK’s fashion showcasing capabilities and highlight the city’s point of difference during Men’s fashion month.” 

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On the first day, 7^th June, the BFC will take over the Institute of Contemporary Arts (ICA) with a triple-threat of guest curators aimed to create a cultural programme of events that will celebrate three of the cultures that have made a rich and significant contribution to the British fashion industry. LFW40 will be centred around and informed by three cultures this year: Black culture concentrating on self-love; South Asian culture focusing on pattern, textile, and craftsmanship; and queer culture spotlighting young creative voices from the trans community. British brands and designers will aim to tell the stories of the communities within these cultures, with LFW40 providing a platform for the members of those communities to tell personal stories and give perspectives on what their culture means to them.

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The programme of curated cultural events will consist of a myriad of activities including three events by special guest curators:

• Afternoon “T” – “You make this place beautiful” hosted by poet, model, consultant, and visibility activist Kai-Isaiah Jamal
• Conversations: A dinner celebrating South Asian impact on British fashion hosted by writer and creative, Simran Randhawa
• Sound & Harmony: Spotlighting Black artists hosted by award winning radio and television broadcaster, Clara Amfo. 
• All photographed and exhibited by photographers Dani D’Ingeo, Stephen Akinyemi, and Tami Aftab 

As well as a celebration of culture, the weekend also marks the 40^th anniversary of LFW June. The BFC will celebrate the breadth of British menswear with a ’40 for 40’ programme in honour of LFW40. This programme will include a bill of 40 activations hosted by British brands and designers across London. From Savile Row to sportswear, the event will consist of catwalk shows, presentations, and events that will provide designers and their brands with a powerful activation space allowing them to showcase their talents in menswear creation. 

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The ’40 for 40’ programme will include:

• Designers scheduled include LOVERBOY, denzilpatrick, Charles Jeffrey, HARRI, and QASIMI.
• The announcement of the winner of the BFC/GQ Designer Fashion Fund 
• Intro to Savile Row with clothsurgeon, Gieves & Hawkes, Richard James, The Deck and more
• Run Clubs with LABRUM Run Club Powered by Adidas and 247 by Represent
• Designer showcase at the Groucho Club with CARLOTA BARRERA, denzilpatrick, DERRICK, HARRI, KYLE HO, LUEDER, Paolo Carzana, and ROKER

On Saturday 8^th June, the BFC will open up to give us ‘Consumer Day.’ This will open LFW to a consumer audience, inviting guests to observe the cultural programmes at the ICA. In addition, 1664 Blanc will host an activation titled ‘Explorations in Blue’ which entails four exclusive panels discussing key issues that face the industry with experts including Charles Jeffrey, Munroe Bergdorf, and Rejina Pyo. Tickets can be found here.

_{Written By Bethan Gwynne}

The post London Fashion Week’s 40th Anniversary Celebrates Culture appeared first on Voir Fashion.

But if there’s one key takeaway from the Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2024 Show, it’s that it’s not just about fashion– it’s an immersive experience that’s a little bit Louis Vuitton, a little bit celebrity-inspired, and a whole lot Pharrell.

The Phlace

The show took place on Paris’ oldest bridge le Pont Neuf while overlooking the river Seine in a nod to the brand’s Parisian roots. Guests arrived by boat to see the historical location covered in Louis Vuitton’s signature Damier check, drinking champagne and enjoying chicken nuggets prepared by celebrity chef Jean Imbert. What followed was a three-hour celebratory spectacle filled with fashion, music, and culture that confirmed Vuitton’s promise to position itself as a ‘cultural brand’.

The Phriends

A live orchestra and gospel choir accompanied the 71 looks that strutted down the runway, building excitement that exploded as Jay-Z gave a surprise concert near the end. The rapper wasn’t the only A-lister in attendance; amongst the 1,750 guest list were also Naomi Campbell, Jaden and Willow Smith, Kim Kardashian, and Paris mayor Anne Hidalgo. Most notably however, were Pharrell’s closest friends lining the front row. From Beyoncé and Zendaya’s reunion to A$AP Rocky and Rihanna’s matching denim fits, the show seemed more like that party hosted by the cool, popular kids we all desperately wanted to get invited to.

The Phinspiration

But unlike those high school parties, Pharrell wants everyone to feel included with the ‘Lovers’ collection. Following his announcement to take the reigns on Valentine’s Day, the 50-year-old kept the capsule theme going by revolving the whole show around love and community. ‘I make clothes for humans’, he said to Vogue ahead of the show, ‘It’s very inspired by the love and support of the people here that I’ve just been blessed to be able to experience’. He even included his confidants inside the collection, with Rihanna being the face of the campaign and the clothes referencing Tyler The Creator’s signature preppy look.

The Phieces

And now on to the actual clothes. The runway opened with a neutral, boxy suit preliminary for the increasingly quirky and detailed looks that followed. Center stage was the LV Damier checkerboard, reinterpreted everywhere from leather biker jackets to fur coats. Pharrell also focused heavily on bags and introduced the ‘Damouflage pattern’, a digitized camo print that inspires thoughts of Minecraft.

Overall, the collection was an organized haphazard mix of vastly different aesthetics. Slick tailored pieces contrasted baggier clothes, and 70s flared trousers debuted alongside pearl-embedded tracksuits. Truly no style was left behind: there were leather football shirts, watch chain jewelry, camouflage parkas, and even a golf cart filled to the brim with LV trunks. The Vuitton logo was everywhere, with additional “LV Lovers” graphics plastered on both female and male models. There’s no doubt that a collage of so many opposing styles shouldn’t fit together; yet somehow Williams made it work.

The Phuture

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At the end of the show, Pharrell took a standing ovation in a ‘Damouflage’ patterned jacket and trousers, sweetly bringing out the Louis Vuitton design team to honor the community behind his debut (very on theme if you ask us). After such a grandiose presentation, the fashion industry is already wondering what the entertainment mogul is bringing to the table next. If his opening show is any hint, we can expect more statement bags, ‘Damouflage’ everywhere, break-the-internet moments, and a lot of celebrity power. The ‘phuture’ is Pharrell, and we’re all here for it.

_{Words by Alexia De Las Heras}

^{Header Image: @Louis Vuitton Instagram}

The post The Pharrellification Of Louis Vuitton appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Pharrell has been reluctant to share any glimpses into the upcoming collection, which will be unveiled via a private runway show on the opening day of Paris Men’s Fashion Week, June 20th. The show will mark five years since Virgil Abloh, the last person to hold the role, presented his debut Louis Vuitton collection at the Palais Royal. 

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Our first sneak peek— if you can describe a ginormous billboard as such— is a blown-up photograph of Rihanna plastered on the side of the Musée d’Orsay this Thursday, overlooking the Seine. In the image, a very pregnant Rihanna sports her signature unbuttoned shirt, accentuating her bump, and carries a takeaway coffee and four primary-coloured Louis Vuitton monogram bags. Her leather shirt features a pixelated pattern reminiscent of Louis Vuitton’s classic Damier print, and she pairs it with smart black trousers and two diamond necklaces. In a photo shared on Instagram, Pharrell poses in front of the billboard wearing a similar all-black outfit to match his muse. 

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Pharrell and Rihanna go way back, collaborating on the song Lemon in 2017, and are rumoured to be working together again for her next album. Rihanna also has connections to LVMH, the French luxury conglomerate behind Louis Vuitton and Fenty’s beauty, skin, and (formerly) fashion lines. 

We are sure that the opening show will be a star-studded event, with Pharrell utilising his connections from the fashion and music industries. A true jack of all trades, Pharrell has won 13 Grammy awards, been nominated twice for an Academy award, and won the CFDA’s Fashion Icon Award in 2015. His predecessor, Virgil, was also a polymath— a qualified engineer, architect, DJ, and creator of the designer label Off White. 

Louis Vuitton welcomed Pharrell ‘home’, with his journey alongside the company beginning in 2004 when he designed the iconic ‘Millionaire’ sunglasses and another collab in 2008. He was also Chanel’s first male fashion ambassador and designed a collection with them, as well as creating a fragrance line with Comme des Garçons, a handbag line with Moynat, and sunglasses with Tiffany. He created the streetwear brand Billionaire Boys Club and its sister brand Ice Cream Footwear, and co-founded Bionic Yarn in 2010, a fibre made from recycled plastic bottles found in the sea. His most notable fashion collab is a long-term partnership between his HUMANRACE brand and Adidas, reimagining 2023’s It-Shoe—the Samba— in bright block colours.

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We can expect to see a lot of streetwear and pop culture influences in his collection, with Hemant Kalbag of Alvarez & Marsal Consumer Retail Group telling Forbes that “Pharrell will help keep LV relevant to the next generation of LV customers”. He will be able to tap into the multifaceted aspect of Louis Vuitton, blending the past, present, and future and potentially collaborating with some of our favourite streetwear brands. 

_{Written By Lucy Walshe}

^{Header Image: @pharrell Instagram}

The post Pregnant Rihanna Is The Face Of Pharrell’s First Louis Vuitton Campaign appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Yves Saint Laurent 

Expectations were high, expectations were met. The French luxury house once again showed the world why they maintain their premium status. To say YSL understood the assignment for menswear AW23 would be an understatement. The chic eveningwear line featured long trench coats, white shirts, and high necklines.

_{Image Credit: Yves Saint Laurent}

The whole collection, which brought the first day of the fashion week to a close, was sleek and clean-cut. Intimidating and smart, full monochromatic looks were emphasized with up-turned collars and pointed boots. Strong fabrics constructed robust coats which contrasted with satin oversized bows, giving a softness to the collection. One thing is for sure, sleek fashion was placed at the forefront of their AW23.  

Valette Studio 

Founded in 2020, we present the designer brand who are responsible for the collection that had us gasping. Designer Pierre-François Valette creates an aesthetic of ‘Casual Couture’ for both menswear and womenswear. The menswear, which showcased on day one, conveyed a hybrid of streetstyle and formalwear. Comfort is a key influence in their suit design process as well as the use of patterns and colour. New collections take new influences from art and culture in our society, expressing modern life. 

Similar to YSL, most of the looks were sleek and chic. An overarching theme of elegance is hovering over men’s AW23 looks so far. Sharp tailoring and classic pieces of menswear were given a revamp for a modern aesthetic, pushing the everyday societal fashion.  

Kidill  

‘Enfant Terrible’ by Kidill was a show to remember. The clothing debuted on skaters who rolled their way through the concrete building in front of stunned spectators. If the clothing wasn’t classed as cool enough, it certainly was after skaters performed tricks on rails and blocks. The performance gave life to the collection and captured the childlike playfulness which they harnessed during the design process.  

_{Image Credit: Isidore Montag}

The clothing itself was super cool. Super casual styles of oversized t-shirts and baggy matching sets. Edgy pieces with punk influence featured during the performance, which is signature to the brand’s style. Tartan patterns, badged jackets and bandanas- the collection was a skater’s dream come true.  

Egon Lab 

More punk styles have emerged for menswear AW23 as Egon Lab’s latest show has proved their punk influences are giving hardcore 2023 fashion trend. An edgy rooted brand, Egon Lab has the punk subculture running through its veins. Blending the genders in their collections as well as societies predetermined juxtapositions such as romance and rebellion.  

The show starred favourites such as Tayce and Palaye Royale, strutting down the runway in the designs of the French label. Huge exaggerated shoulders featured on boxy over-sized jackets, while other jackets were fully fur covered. Retro floral, tartan and gingham prints made re-occurring appearances on the runway giving flairs of the past in a modern light. Layers showed off conflicting patterns of skinny scarves and shirts on top of long-sleeved t-shirts.  

_{Words By Erin Wilson}

The post Breaking Down Paris Men’s Fashion Week For You. appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Louis Vuitton

The Men’s Louis Vuitton show was incredible. The brand always pulls sensational surprises out at their hat and this year’s Paris Men’s show was a top tier performance. Starting with the retro set design created by French filmmakers Michel and Olivier Gondry, the show was built for success from the get-go. Inspired by memories from their childhoods, the set was supposed to capture ‘Formative Moments’ that make up a boy ‘s initial stages of life. The set was super effective in setting the scene of the show. 

The collection came with a performance from sensation, Rosalia, which had viewers hyped. She was seen singing, dancing and parading around the runway kitted head to toe in oversized Louis Vuitton. Turning up the tempo she jumped on the retro yellow car which parked next to the pop-up home set-up. Louis Vuitton had hyped the audience before they had even debuted any of their new collection. That is how you do it, in our opinion.  

The looks lived up to the amazing atmosphere which had been created. A co-collaboration between Colm Dillane and Louis Vuitton for AW23 was evident from the moment the founder of KidSuper stepped out amongst the Louis Vuitton team. His creations included his famous artwork of patchworked faces on leather casualwear and accessories. They were super cool and vibrant, and we loved the hybrid pieces of his work merged with the Louis Vuitton monograms. Retro 70s floral prints also found their way into the looks, complimenting the set they walked through.

The items were insanely cool with lots of nods to the past evident as inspiration. The show which had models chaotically pacing through bedrooms and living rooms was made-up of almost 70 looks. Louis Vuitton covered a huge amount of ground in the collection. Surrealism was evident in the designs which made the fits super eye-catching and intriguing. War-time inspired pieces were shown on runway models such as aviator hats, piff helmet hats, leather gloves and camouflage prints which fully covered jackets and trousers. Rugged denim, biker jackets and hoods cropped up on stage as they predict to trend in AW23. Puffer styles, ribbon-tied trousers and fringe lined suit jackets also made popping appearances in the show. However, long slim-tailored coats definitely dominated the looks as well as classic cut suits.  

Rick Owens

The grungy glamour aesthetic continues its way in AW23 menswear with Rick Owen’s latest collection. A designer with a powerful story behind him, Owens managed to work his way up the fashion industry in unconventional manners. From dropping out of art school to working for knock-off production factories, he found his way to Paris where it all changed. Establishing a romantic relationship with boss at the time, Michele Lamy, she managed to give his designs exposure and so his legacy as a fashion designer began.

He has kept his rebellion roots and they are always paramount in the design of his clothing. Showcasing at Paris fashion week this year, his collection was no exception to his inspiringly classic Rick Owen’s Style. However, the collection took a ‘Victorian’ influence which was unpredicted but well-received by audience members. He stated he took inspiration from the reign of the Queen during the 19th century and wanted to show a modern take on ‘elaborate modesty’ which was so paramount at the time. Stating the significance of masking sensuality was so elaborate it almost had the opposite effect. His play with historic styles and grunge sub-culture influence created some innovative and visionary designs.

He experimented with Victorian silhouettes and pieces from the time period such as cloaks. Pencil skirts, platform gladiator boots and puffer jackets all made their way on to the runway in his full-black looks. The cow-hide spike shoulder jackets appeared one after the other and pieces were deconstructed into their simplest forms to give an experimental element to the collection. The range of looks consisted mainly of black pieces and otherwise a dark muted palette was used. Slicked hairstyles and blocked face paints added to the grunge aesthetic of the clothing.

_{Words By Erin Wilson}

The post Retro Innocence Vs Grungy Victorian: PFW Highlights appeared first on Voir Fashion.

13^th-17^th of Jan 

The best of luxury Italian fashion’s AW 23 men’s collections will be showcasing as of tomorrow. Returning fashion giants Gucci, Giorgio Armani and Prada, will reveal their latest designs and we are hyped. From the 13^th through to the 17^th of January the streets of Milan will be crawling with fashionistas, models and designers. The city will be transformed as the beginning of the fashion calendar kicks off. Let’s go! 

What will be happening? Milan Men’s Fashion Week this year is going to be one to remember as a lot of changes within creative teams have happened since the most previous SS 23 shows. For example, this will be a monumental show for Gucci as this is their first time showcasing a collection since creative director, Alessandro Michele, stepped down. This leaves exciting opportunities for the brand to reinvent their ways, as Marco Bizzarri will be running the show, quite literally. Milan will also host to Andrea Guerra as the CEO of Prada for the first time. Miuccia Prada and husband Patrizio Bertelli stepped down as the co-CEO’s late last year which was marked as an end of an era for the fashion house. So, it is a fair assumption to say this year’s Milan Men’s is definitely going to an iconic fashion week for more than one reason.   

Fashion houses which have us on our toes for their upcoming debuts during Milan Fashion Week are Etro and Giorgio Armani. Marco De Vincenzo will be showing his first menswear with Etro and expectations are high. The direction for his AW 23 is unpredictable and that means anticipation is building everywhere. Giorgio Armani will be showcasing their ideas for AW 23 menswear during their shows on Monday the 16^th of January. A brand with a rich heritage, they are no stranger to Milan Fashion Week, however always manage to make a statement with their shows. We expect this year will be no different and are excited to see their creative vision on the future of fashion.  

Keep up-to-date as the new trends are unveiled for AW 23.  

Copenhagen is Calling, and we are Picking Up on the First Ring 

31^st of Jan- 3^rd of Feb 

Scandanavian styles have been trending for years and they have graciously earned their way into the limelight, which we are buzzed about. At the end of this month your socials will be dominated with Scandi fits which will be strutting down the runways of Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW). We are super excited to see the emerging Danish designers showcase their work as well as well-known Scandi brands such as Ganni. 29 shows will showcase the best Denmark fashion has to offer, along with featured talks and events. So, be sure to save the dates, as you will not want to miss the trends coming our way on the 31^st of January to the 3^rd of February.  

This is the first season which has set sustainability standards which brands participating in the week must meet. A minimum of 18 requirements must be met by the brands who are showcasing. This means CPHFW is putting sustainability at the heart of their shows this year. This is a huge step in the fashion industry as CPHFW are leading the way for positive global change regarding the future of fashion weeks. Requirements include brands producing a zero-waste status from show production and there must be no use of single-use packaging. People are equally as important in brand sustainability as the planet, which is why brands must have good working conditions and fair pay throughout their supply chains, as well as a diverse and equal hiring system.  

So, the question remains, who are these brands who are going above and beyond with their sustainability measures? Or most importantly, who are we most buzzed for? 

(di)vision 

“Create from what already is”- a sustainable mantra for a sustainable brand. This young brand, and we mean young, was developed only back in 2018 by siblings Nanna and Simon Wick. Despite their short brand lifetime, they are seriously killing it and are returning again this year to showcase their AW 23 designs at CPHFW. Forward thinking and genderless, this is a brand we are looking forward to seeing at CPHFW as well as future events. 

Ganni 

No surprise that we are hella hyped for Ganni to show off what they have been working on. The label which we love for their cool designs and diversity will have their returning spot on the final day of the fashion packed week. Not only will they be on the final day, they are the closing show which will wrap up the whole ensemble of runways… no pressure there! We have faith…after all, it’s Ganni we are talking about.  

A.Roege Hove 

The conceptual knitwear brand which describes itself as ‘effortless and extravagant’, a concept which may seem contradictory, or contrasting at the least. This brand is right up our street and the collection they will be showing for AW 23 at CPHFW is unpredictable. As an experimental and visionary brand, A.Roege Hove, will surely give us a lot to think about post-show. Excited to see their take on the fashion for the upcoming season.  

There is no hiding our excitement for the next few weeks. A jampacked January of trends and a fashion filled February is ahead of us, and it all kicks off tomorrow!

_{Words By Erin Wilson}

_{Header Image: @cphfw Instagram}

The post Fashion Weeks Incoming: Get to Grips with Men’s Milan and Copenhagen’s FWs appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Garage Amelot in the Marais district will play host for the showroom during the week of walkways. From Thursday the 19^th to Sunday the 22^nd of January, the showroom will display 17 menswear designers to showcase their designs. For example, Derrick, Toron and Lula Laora, are all brands which will feature at the showroom.

House Of Jaffa

The talented list also includes House of Jaffa, known for their use of bright colours and international influences. The brand expresses what it is like being Queer in the Middle East and takes huge influence in the two designers upbringings.

Loci

The vegan sneaker brand Loci will also be showcasing their latest designs. A brand putting emphasis on their sustainability as well as style. Loci, deriving from the word locus, which means centre, symbolises the best within a human. They use this ethos throughout their designing and manufacturing process as they utilise recycled and durable materials.

Abigail Ajobi

British-Nigerian designer Abigail Ajobi creates luxury sustainable streetwear for men and women. The brand’s ethos lies in empowering the designer’s community through her creativity.

The British Fashion Council’s LONDON show ROOMS have created pop-up spaces outside of London since 2008, to allow emerging British designers more exposure. Travelling to cities such as Hong Kong and New York, the Paris pop-up showroom has continued to popularise season after season. The pop-up gives buyers and press from around the world the opportunity to view collections which they otherwise may not have seen. This year will be no different as TRANOÏ MEN support the British Fashion Council in their event. We wish all designers best of luck as they show their work at the iconic Garage Amelot.

Words By Erin Wilson

_{Header Image: Arundhati Das}

The post Thanks To LONDON Show ROOMS: We’ll Be Seeing These Designers At PFW. appeared first on Voir Fashion.

After opening a café and a cocktail bar in Florence, Gucci is at the heart of a new initiative, more cultural than gustatory. The Italian fashion house has joined forces with the Victoria and Albert Museum in London to create an exhibition that traces the history of men’s clothing. A theme less highlighted than its female counterpart, but which nevertheless implies centuries of inspiration and creative innovation. 

“I hate the word unisex,” said  Gucci’s artistic director Alessandro Michele in a talk with Alexander Fury on Monday night at the Victoria & Albert Museum. His line of work at Gucci has never been about making unisex clothes. Michele revealed that when it comes to starting a collection he always starts with a suit, which has traditionally been a constraint but is now one of his main inspirations. The collaboration between the iconic fashion designer and the men’s fashion exhibition is, therefore, a natural fit.

On the program: sculptures, paintings, photographs, films, performances, archive pieces… In three routes, a hundred or so works of art will be exhibited alongside several dozen silhouettes by contemporary designers.

The first part of the presentation, “Undressed”, explores the male body and undergarments through a look at the standards of beauty that have been challenged over the centuries.

In the second gallery, “Overdressed” the exhibition focus on the elite male wardrobe, recognizable by its luxurious pieces, an expression of a certain social status, a position of power, and individuality. Armoured suits, dinner jackets, make-up, ribbons, and lace… The tour puts the opulent aesthetic of past centuries into perspective, evolving into modern designs, from Kim Jones to Harris Reed.

Finally, the third and last circuit “Redressed” highlights the origins of the costume, with more sober silhouettes that contrast with the flamboyance of the previous circuit. It features historical garments, such as the archives of 18^th-century English couture, contemporary reinterpretations, and numerous photographs of celebrities, from Oscar Wilde to the Beatles to Sam Smith. It is also an opportunity to discover the influence of military dress on the civilian silhouette.

“Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear – in partnership with Gucci will be hosted at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London from 19 March to 6 November 2022.

Words by Melodie Bitala-Samba

^{Header image: Victoria and Albert Museum, London}

The post ‘Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear’: Gucci’s Exhibition at the V&A appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Lukhanyo Mdingi

The winner of the last Karl Lagerfeld Prize awarded at the eighth edition of the LVMH Prize for young fashion designersthe South African designer Lukhanyo Mdingi opened the dance of Paris Fashion Week. Lukhanyo Mdingi is part of the new wave of African Talent bringing the continent to the forefront of fashion. His new Spring Summer Collection“BURKINA” offers a reinterpretation of Burkinabe prints and a celebration of West African fashion.

Kidill

Japanese designer Hiroaki Sueyasu Collection “Hell Haus”featured Contemporary fashion and streetwear in a post-apocalyptic, psychedelic setting with models walking like zombies or lying on the floor. The show was inspired by horror movies, the punk era, and skate culture. The designer who became known as a celebrated outsider artist has a tendency to depict idyllic, flowered landscapes in fantastical, sometimes horrific imagery. In this collection, in collaboration with Tom Tosseyn and Ritual Projects Paris, Hiroaki Sueyasu displayed Japanese dyeing techniques used in knits and woven. 

BlueMarble

Paris-based designer Anthony Alvarez founded BlueMarble in 2018. Inspired by urban cultures, subcultures, and the MTV generation, the designer creates ultra-coloured pieces with psychedelic prints and vintage charm, like his show last season, where he took inspiration from New York frenzy and Filipino heat. Anthony Alvarez looked at different wardrobes, from workwear to sportswear, streetwear, and tailoring to create this SS collection, while embedding neon colours, strass, and animal prints, with artisanal details. The fashion brand seduced international artists such as Justine Bieber and rapper Kodak Black present at the show.

^{Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com}

Airei

LVMH Prize 2022 Semi-Finalist, Drew Curry presented his second collection at Paris Fashion Week. The show was quite surprising, it took place in a dormitory setting with pieces hanging from the ceiling and did not include models. The designer revealed a collection made of neutral colors ranging from beige, ochre, and grey, featuring linen and knitweargarments with striking contrasts and fine thread-work. Curry artfully crafts yarns, such as Italian recycled cashmere, and fabrics, like Japanese denim.

^{image via @dfsablon}

Taak 

The Japanese brand TAAKK created in 2013 by Takuya Morikawa, who notably made his mark for eight years at Issey Miyake, returned for Paris Fashion Week yesterday. 

For his second Parisian outing, Takuya Morikawa, who is passionate about the surrealist movement, was inspired by his dreams, the intersection of reality and unreality, and with it, the ambiguity of this intersection. Proposing a collection that mixed fluidity, denim, and bright colours.

Egonlab 

Egonlab has been causing a stir since its launch in 2018 and is establishing itself as one of the most promising talents on the Parisian creative scene. The fashion brand is led by Kévin Nompeix and Florentin Glémarec The collection broke the codes of gender – a recurring theme in the duo’s work – with worn denim, colourful oversized suits, and leather pieces. What really caught the eye, apart from the platform waders and the cartoon characters present at this Alice in Wonderland-inspired show, was a small accessory discreetly attached to the ears of some of the models. A metal cigarette holder that is worn as ear jewellery. A piece that was unanimously approved by the guests at the fashion show and that we are likely to see everywhere very soon…

Etudes 

Founded in 2012 by 2 friends Aurélien and Jérémie, the urban fashion brand highlights art and subcultures through its clothing. The Parisian brand Études Studio continues to seduce the fashion world. Both passionate about graffiti, they offer a vision of fashion that reflects our era, where the boundaries between different artistic fields are becoming increasingly blurred..

The show took place on a disused railway track, with the models walking in the middle of the wild grass. The urban and comfortable style of this collection of men’s clothing features bold designs and loose-fitting cuts.

Words by Melodie Bitala-Samba

The post Paris Fashion Week Kicks Off With Emerging Designers appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Versace

Versace has also been revisiting their archives with a Baroque Pop spirit. Latex, ceramic urns, colored-python prints, and exaggerated silhouettes including silken shirts combine sexiness, simplicity, and depth.

Donatella Versace returned to menswear with a fun and inventive collection, full of color, casting images of classical statuary. Reinventing the brand’s iconic Medusa in animated versions that seem to come to life as repeating patterns on silks. In tune with the younger generation’s concern with the planet, Versace substituted exotic skins with python prints featuring neon accents, appearing as trenches or trousers, grounded by oversized pinstriped accent pieces. Leather-looks styled out of eco-sustainable latex were well ventilated with a repeating diamond pattern.

^{Versace Photo Credit: Filippo Fior}

Dolce and Gabbana 

“Heritage meets the present” for D&G Spring Summer Collection 2023. The show was a revival of timeless looks from the Italian house with a “re-edited” collection. “A past universe mixed with contemporary items to generate a new vision of the Dolce and Gabbana’s DNA” declared the designers. The collection displayed denim returns in all forms, combined with vintage printed T-shirts and jackets modernized with handmade embroideries. It also included classic pieces from the 90’s/2000’s like the iconic ‘canotta’ from ’91 and the “Sicilians are sensational” T-shirt from ’92. The brand revived these classic pieces with new shapes, treatments, and accessories to reinterpret the eternal fascination of Sicilian sensuality.

^{Dolce & Gabbana Photo Credit: Isidore Montag}

Etro

The Etro collection carried the carefree waft of summer. Soft shirts,  flannels, ranging from orange to blue tones with a delicate and sensual feeling, and fluidity through floral garments. The theme was the wild power of poetry beautifully translated through the collection. “The male body is perceived behind nets and perforations in the transparencies of impalpable materials. Volumes are soft and accompany the movement.” Declared the brand.

^{Etro Photo Credit: Isidore Montag}

Moschino 

Jeremy Scott scored again with this new collection, mixing 80s fashion with the Buffalo movement and graphic designs. Bi-color suits. The collection was also inspired by Latino artist Tony Viramontes. His work was characterized by kinetic lines, electric energy, and calligraphic shapes, well-synchronized with 1980’s art. The artist also helped create New Age style.

^{Moschino Photo Credit: Isidore Montag}

RAF Simmons and Miuccia Prada

The designers have combined the house’s sophisticated aesthetic with Simons’ youthful aura. Everyday essentials like suits, overcoats, sweaters, shirts, denim, and leather took over the line while celebrating Prada’s famous classic tailoring. Despite the simplicity of these pieces, the silhouettes have been reimagined through geometric shapes, Leather, Adding a note of vibrant sensuality with high-waisted shorts mixed with subtle vichy patterns. A combination of sophistication and oddness.

^{Raf Simmons and Muiccia Prada Photo Credit: Filippo Fior}

Armani

Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2023 fashion show was defined by lightness in attitude and spirit. The collection included shirts combined with soft trousers cut from the same fabric giving a uniform hint. The shapes barely touched the body allowing it to breathe vital energy, and embodying this summer vibe. The sheer joy of living and dressing for the season: choosing clothes and accessories to throw on without too much thought.

^{Armani Photo Credit: Isidore Montag}

Fendi 

Silvia Venturini Fendi created earthy, grounded looks for a planet-conscious generation in shades that ranged from soothing chambray to hearty ochres. With Denim outfits, bucket hats, iconic Fendi logo, fringe on statement handbags, and moccasins for an easy day look. The collection also included knitwear in matching tones, shorts in linen with soft-zipped jackets, and sturdy-soled slip-on loafers for the beach. On the more dressy end, roomy Bermuda shorts in cream paired with a camel jacket.

^{Fendi Photo credit: Filippo Fior}

Words by Melodie Batala-Samba

^{Graphics By Veronica Wong Diffa}

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