Hedi Slimane’s AW19 runway at Celine unveiled a collection that transcended the lines between the controversial ‘new Celine’ signalled by Phoebe Philo’s successor, and ‘old Celine’, embodied by an archetypal French bourgeois dressing.

There is only one thing I seem to want to buy this season. The pieces I’m drawn to in shops, the pieces that stand out to me in magazines, the pieces I’m inclined to compliment at the office, all seem to have one thing in common: checks.

My current eye for checked attire undoubtedly traces back to earlier this year, to March 1st to be precise, when Hedi Slimane’s AW19 runway at Celine unveiled a collection that transcended the lines between the controversial ‘new Celine’ signalled by Phoebe Philo’s successor, and ‘old Celine’, embodied by an archetypal French bourgeois dressing.

An overwhelming feeling of ‘too much fashion’ swept the recent SS20 runways in New York London, Paris and Milan, the pressing issue of sustainability and the questions arising linked to fashion’s detrimental ecological impact giving rise to a wave of streamlined collections of non-trends and versatile wardrobe staples. Slimane’s return to Celine’s non-fashion origins back in spring seemed to be in some ways a reflection of this same message, at once an homage to the quintessential French bourgeois woman’s wardrobe and an appreciation of timeless staple pieces embedded with a glamorous yet wonderfully wearable allure. And no less than 18 of the looks that graced the runway featured some form of tweed or check-patterned clothing, the majority of them essentially a slightly differentiated take on a singular uniform built upon a foundation of a country-check pleated midi skirt, accessorised with printed silk foulards, glossy knee-high boots and horse-bit belts.

The beauty of trends and prints from previous decades making a comeback is that you don’t need to buy or consume anything new to wear them. You’ll find a plethora of checked blazers and skirts in charity shops and vintage stores

The seventies Parisian bourgeois-meets-British countryside aesthetic renaissance headed by Celine also swept the AW19 catwalks at Tory Burch, Chloé and Max Mara. Its ubiquity on the runways and consequent pervasion into high street stores arguably makes checked clothing a trend, but its pulling power lies in its nostalgic history – an ode to a time before trends became the swift one-in, one-out cycle that they are today, – as a timeless classic that works season after season. It slides perfectly into the broader 70s revival alongside conventional country-inspired accessories among the likes of equestrian-style boots and belts, vintage-luxe-inspired gold chain jewellery and classic tailoring.

The beauty of trends and prints from previous decades making a comeback is that you don’t need to buy or consume anything new to wear them. You’ll find a plethora of checked blazers and skirts in charity shops and vintage stores – my work colleague found a £6 vintage St Michael’s (Marks and Spencer’s old clothing brand) tweed blazer that I’m insanely jealous of in a charity shop, while I invested in a second-hand Miu Miu checked A-line skirt in a resale store in Paris.

Some of the trends we see on the runways can seem too unwearable, too niche or too out of reach for the everyday, but checks are an ode to the quotidien, the perfect source of office-dressing inspiration. A checked overcoat or blazer with gold toggle hardware is the perfect subtle yet trendy addition to a monochrome office ensemble, paired with polished pearls and loafers that look as if they’ve been plucked from a Parisian boutique. A tweed skirt with an over-the-knee hemline works wonders with a satin blouse, silk scarf and a pair of mid-heels. Warm and neutral colour palettes, dominated by brown and beige hues, mean they fit effortlessly into winter- and workwear-wardrobes that, even if they seem to be having a particular moment right now, never tire year after year.

Words by Ruby McAuliffe

Graphics by Katie Janes

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The post Check Mate: Celine, Countryside Tweed And The 70s Bourgeois French Girl appeared first on Voir Fashion.

We’ve selected some of our favourites from Milan Fashion Week that have given us some great ideas for Spring/Summer 2019. Let’s begin!

Alberto Zambelli’s Spring/Summer 19 show was inspired by an Italian sculptor Antonio Canova which was evident throughout the collection. Dresses with visuals of stone sculptures, combined with the exploration of how white mutates into a plethora of shades made for an interesting show. Silver ruffles, iridescent layers and silky fabrics draped over the models made them look as if they were beautifully carved marble creations themselves. This collection overall has provided us with an elegant direction for spring and we’re truly inspired.

Albino Teodoro gave us some extremely on trend prints: tartan and stripes paired with bold navy blue, deep red with dashes of pastels made for a simple but extremely wearable collection. The ruffles gave us aesthetic design details, some silhouettes voluminous but elegant and contemporary. This stylish take on spring gave us beautifully tailored suits and a wonderful colour palette, showing us florals aren’t always the way to go and that spring can hold bold shades just as well as any other season.

A concoction of warm earthy tones, denim and embroidered flower dresses hit the runway at Fendi. We were presented with transparent PVC garments with brown detailing, orange decals sporting the Fendi logo were perfectly placed on sports-like shorts and bras. Pleated skirts and graceful floral spring time dresses provided a perfect balance of stylish street wear and elegant touches.

A beautiful springtime colour palette of blues, yellows, whites and a hint of black showed us that pastels paired with darker tones creates a highly wearable range of garments. Jil Sander came through with a collection of woollen dresses, oversized shirts and pleated skirts, spring has never looked so classically stylish. Looking for a sleek, contemporary look for spring 19? Jil Sander has it in the bag.

Max Mara gave us coats, coats and more coats…and we loved it! A plethora of different styles of trench coat wondered the runway: in bright yellow, brown, navy and white we got another colour scheme that we’re obsessed with. Avant-garde sleeves gave interesting silhouettes to some of the collections coats, whilst others were nipped in at the waist and the sleeves pulled up to the elbow offering a flattering silhouette. Classy and effortlessly stylish, Max Mara has come through with another wonderful collection.

Edgy and chic: N°21 showed a collection that would surely have heads turning. Opaque PVC and patent leather fabrics in the form of dresses and coats were complimented with harnesses of diamonds giving us a rich luxe feel. Along with black, white and beige this collection boasted bright pinks and deep emerald greens. Coats that had interest in their silhouettes were complimented with classy dresses over the top of white t-shirts giving us an edgy 90’s vibe which we’re subscribing to.

Alberta Ferretti showed a collection of flouncy spring dresses, looks that mimicked a relaxed explorer vibe. Cropped jackets, sandals and cargo-style trousers gave us casual but stylish looks. Ferretti’s spring dresses had an air of elegance about them: in a variety of colours they floated down the runway, the pastel ones giving off spring day vibes, whilst the black sheer dresses ooze sex appeal. This collection gives us a lot to choose from and we’re loving the choice.

Stay tuned for more appraisals.

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The post Milan Fashion Week: An Appraisal appeared first on Voir Fashion.