As social media yearns for the aesthetics of Quiet Luxury and as celebrities, influenced by the emerging it-girl status of Nicole Richie-Grainge, adapt to this sudden shift, certain brands have remained loyal to their flashy, bold, and statement-making pieces. With a subversive and innovative nature, these brands are renowned trailblazers and unconventional. 

Nothing quiet to see here, the following brands stand out loudly, leaving an indelible mark on the fashion industry due to their daring and avant-garde styles.

Marine Serre

In the realm of contemporary fashion, one designer stands out for her audacious, game-changing approach to aesthetics: Marine Serre. With a vision that seamlessly blends the radical and the disruptive, Serre’s designs encapsulate a fusion of feminine sensibilities, hybrid identities, and cultural inspirations. Blending vividly colourful patterned tapestries, jacquards, and brocades into patchwork outfits, her brand is synonym with revolutionary.

The distinctive Crescent logo, founding leggings, balaclavas, tops, and stockings, is part of the mix and match of colours, textures, and prints that define the brand’s visual language and create a striking visual impact. Each design exudes a spirit of rebellion, imagination, and creativity, contrasting with the minimalist nature of Quiet luxury. 

Rick Owens

 Rick Owens is enigmatic, visionary, and edgy. He defies the stablished with grunge clothing, and an aesthetics that is both daring and glamorous. His design ethos, fuelled by unbridled imagination and unwavering innovation, pulsates with the raw energy of rock ‘n’ roll rebellion. At the heart of his creations an unwavering commitment to pushing boundaries. From his signature platform black leather boots, to sequins, embellishments, and big proportions, his unique vision resonates with his rebellious spirit. 

Rick Owens emerges as a disrupt or/and a provocateur whose aesthetic is an ode to the rule-breakers and the risk-takers. There is nothing quiet about his fashion, instead his loud taste and grunge spirit are epitome of eccentricity and individuality. 

Self-Portrait

Least outrageous than the last, Self-Portrait is sophisticated but innovative and modern. Feminine and glamorous, the brand masters’ embellishments with refinement and class. Intricate details such as fishnet, embroidered with beads and sequins, add an element of luxury and opulence to the designs. Far from being classic, Self-Portrait charm lies in an inherent understanding of the feminine silhouette, creating designs that celebrate confidence and sensuality. 

Colours and textures take the centre stage in the creations. From energetic hues to muted tones, Self-Portrait’s colour choices are deliberate and strategic, contributing to the brand’s ability to create pieces that are timeless and bold. 

Vivienne Westwood

Once a provocateur, always a provocateur. Dame Vivienne Westwood created a brand based on her values: rebellion, wildness, and unapologetic political incorrectness.Today, the brand keeps her legacy of defiance by pushing aesthetic boundaries. With a trailblazing spirit deeply rooted in punk ideology, the textures and silhouettes are provoking and captivating, embodying a spirit of chaos and authenticity.

Checkered fabrics and the emblematic tartan, daring animal prints, mixed with other fun and unusual motifs are testament of the heterogeneous and playful exploration that embodies the punk spirit, and the audacious nature of this brand. A captivating mix of colours, prints, and styles, create an avant-garde wardrobe rooted in its creator’s loud stands. 

Versace

Versace reigns supreme as a beacon of subversive style, celebrated for its audacious embrace of unapologetic seduction. The hallmark of Versace’s aesthetic lies in its unwavering dedication to opulent excess. From golden accessories, such as chains and buttons, to floral embellishments and crystals, Versace crafts a narrative that is at once bold and alluring, embodying a distinctive fusion of Italian elegance and unabashed sensuality.

Its maximalism is sumptuous and daring, elegant and provocative. Since its debut, the brand has remained faithful to its codes, becoming one of the most recognisable in the industry.

_{Written By  By Carolina Benjumea} 

^{Header Image By Mia Washbrook}

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The Fashion Industry is full to the brim of incredible innovators, creators and boundary breakers. Celebrating International Women’s Day, Voir Fashion pays homage to the fresh, bold, daring women that are powerfully leading the industry. The catalysts of progression, these women are making great strides, raising the standards and breaking through ceilings. From the architects of punk fashion to the authors of a new, re-defined femininity, there’s a lot to be celebrated.

Marine Serre

Blurring the lines between sportswear and high fashion, enter Marine Serre. In 2017, Serre became the youngest designer at the time to pick up an LVMH Award. Serre debuted at Paris Fashion Week in 2018, consistently appearing since and often using recycled fabrics for her silhouettes. This is really an embodiment of Serre’s futuristic vision, as the forward-thinking, environmentally conscious designs in Serre’s ‘Green Line’ collection were comprised of 50% recycled materials including bedsheets and jeans. In addition, Serre’s work is never shy of making a social or political statement. Serre’s ‘emblem’, the crescent moon, was featured in her winning LVMH collection (titled ‘Radical Call for Love’), and is a commentary on a fast-metamorphosing Europe, migration, immigration, and national identity – the crescent moon is drawn from the Turkish and old Soviet flags. Notable designs from Serre’s past collections include a key fob embellished black opera coat (Spring 2019), and the frayed hem dress constructed of Byzantine floral patterns, paired with a crescent brooch atop a black headband (Spring 2018), and, of course, the celestial patterned nude bodysuit featured in the 2021 Fall Collection. 

Aurora James

Even ‘progressive’ or ‘influential’ doesn’t quite cover the impact made by Aurora James yet. James is the founder and creative director of Brother Vellies, which handcrafts handbags and shoes in Ethiopia, South Africa, Morocco and Kenya. The label was founded in 2013, and strives to retain and maintain traditional African crafting techniques in each beautiful collection. James founded the 15 Percent Pledge, which encourages companies to dedicate at least 15% of their shelf space to Black-owned businesses, given that 15% of the US’s population is made up of Black people. This was a hugely progressive step, as Sephora became the first publicly announced company to join the pledge. For James, Brother Vellies was based on taking the ‘Vellie’ shoe, which is a traditional African shoe, (described by James as the ‘prototypical desert boot’) and to add a contemporary twist. This vision of James’ has, however, vastly grown, as Brother Vellies has expanded into creating heels and sandals, loafers, mules, and even a Bodega of home and lifestyle products. James’ designs make use of natural materials to create fanciful flourishes such as madras bows and pompoms. Brother Vellies’ designs are often adorned in bright pinks, yellows, oranges, and silvers, an artistic celebration of James’ crafters. Favourites from Brother Vellies designs include the 2020 Boots featuring a dark brown and cream shearing which display a Yin Yang symbol – a reminder of the good still yet to come despite the bad in 2020. Another favourite, Brother Vellies’ signature billfold bag, the Lijadu Billfold, named after the Lijadu sisters.

Natasha Zinko

Free-spirited femininity composed of deadstock fabrics, tartan, tulle, and leathers is Natasha Zinko’s brand, and it works. The eclectic collections of Zinko have made waves in the industry. From the ragtag brightly coloured Spring 2020 collections to the Marie Antoinette-derived Fall 2021 collection, Zinko’s designs are hard to define and yet addictive to look at. A previous law student turned Jewellery maker turned Fashion designer, Zinko’s collections often take inspiration from her home country, Ukraine as well as Pretty Woman, Lady Diana, and a make-do-and-mend attitude. Zinko’s fashion inspiration comes from Rei Kawakubo, Lady Diana, and Azzedine Alaia. This blend of hugely alternative styles really defines Zinko’s collections. Minimalism is non-existent in Zinko’s designs, as folkloric patterns, bold silhouettes, and historical periods all blend into one. The Spring 2020 collection featured multi-coloured vintage bandanas and explored gender fluidity alongside sustainability (the collection was partially made up of recycled materials). Ever the progressive, Zinko has even worked with local authorities in her hometown of Odessa to create and distribute recycling facilities. Though all of Zinko’s designs deserve a thorough gaze and analysis, highlights include the patchwork ruffled denim suit from the Fall 2021 collection and the asymmetric ruffled vintage handkerchief dress from Spring 2020. 

Simone Rocha

Victorian romance, Perspex furniture, and femininity all come to mind when discussing Simone Rocha. The Irish International designer made waves in the industry as early as her graduation.  Rocha launched her graduate collection at the Tate Modern and in London Fashion Week in 2010. Since then, Rocha’s journey has been anything but quiet. Rocha’s designs, in all their amorous and eldritch femininity have consistently walked in Fashion Week and have on multiple occasions attracted awards and accolades for Rocha. The collections have caught the eye of renowned retailers, such as the Dover Street Market, Matchesfashion, Ikram, I.T, Bergdorf Goodman, and Saks Fifth Avenue. In addition, Rocha has picked up various awards such as the British Fashion Awards ‘Emerging Talent, Ready-to-Wear’ in 2013 and the Fashion Award’s ‘British Womenswear Designer Award’ in 2016 –  to name a few. It is unsurprising that Simone Rocha has caught the attention of many in the industry, however. Rocha’s designs are often influenced by literature (among many other things), nature, and history. For us, a creation by Rocha that effortlessly captures the essence of Rocha’s brand – a window display in Rocha’s Mount Street London store in 2015 named ‘Flowers and Cars’. The display featured a car completely filled with flowers – a perfect allegory of the manufactured meets mother nature trope that Rocha’s designs so heavily exude.

Vivienne Westwood

It would be hard to compile a list of influential women designers in the industry and not mention Vivienne Westwood. A designer whose work remains just as impactful today as it was in the 70s, the punk fashion architect has always produced collections that are an artistic expression of her own values. In the late ‘60s, Westwood and Malcolm McLaren were fascinated by ‘50s clothing and culture and combining it with youth rebellion. It’s fair to say that this element has always had a quiet presence in Westwood’s designs. In the ‘70s, Westwood turned her attention to leather, zips, studs, and biker style designs. Westwood’s inspiration and creations continued to evolve, summarised with the transition from the iconic ‘80s ‘Pirate Collection’ with all of its romantic undertones to the late ‘80s early ‘90s Harris Tweed collections inspired by the ‘Tatler’ girls, and finally to the 2000s collections which focused on the dimensions of the fabric itself, rather than historicism. Westwood’s political and social activism has always been prevalent in both her designs and personal life, from an ambassador for clean energy for Trillion Fund to PETA ad campaigns to Tatler front covers emblazoned ‘This Woman was once a Punk’ whilst dressed as Margaret Thatcher. Whilst there are too many highlights to cover, the cheesecloth t-shirt with ‘Destroy’ printed across the front that Westwood herself sported in the ‘70s during the punk renaissance will forever be engrained in our minds.

Words By Megan Selway, Graphics By Victoria Zhao

The post International Women’s Day: Our Homage To The Influential Female Designers Of The Moment appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Bold and statement worthy, the volume trend has marked its territory for the upcoming season. Amongst the numerous trends spotted in the Autumn/Winter 2020 collections, the volumized look has most definitely caught our attention. Who can blame us when this trend screams the classic go big or go home!

Voluminous sleeves

It was only a matter of time before voluminous sleeves returned to the forefront, claiming its place yet again as a stylish go-to. In the Autumn/Winter 2020 show, voluminous sleeves made a strong appearance amongst many of the collections. Roksanda’s orange maxi with oversized ruffle sleeves is one of our favourites along with Richard Quinn’s bulbous sleeved dresses which rock that nostalgic 80’s feel. If you dare for more extravagance, Viktor and Rolfe display a sculptural pink dress that is sure to turn some heads. A bulging sleeve is asymmetrically paired with one of contrasting size, offering a playful approach to volume.

Bubble up

As the colder months approach, this trend offers a practical yet stylish option for the upcoming season. The catwalk featured an array of enveloping garments with outerwear and dresses offering a bubble-like protective layer. This was a strong look in J.W. Anderson’s collection consisting of spherical silhouettes inclusively wrapping around the body. At Halpern, a dress of explosive colour engulfs the wearer, leaving only the front of the legs visible. Marine Serre took the inclusive look even further with black puffy outwear that conceals around the head; practicality at its best.

Exaggerate the Hip

The Autumn/Winter shows saw an extreme exaggeration of the hips; Area and Moschino being two of the houses that utilize the look. To say that Area’s jackets and dresses accentuate from the waist would be an understatement. Area has pushed hip volume to the extreme with a bulging heart shape that protrudes from a nipped waist. Moschino similarly presents an array of long-sleeved dresses that encompass an umbrella effect around the hip. Paired with knee-high boots, we love how Moschino has merged the traditional with a modern 2020 twist.

Ruffled Volume and Tulle

When we think of tulle it is almost impossible for the words ‘puffy’ ‘big’ and ‘Molly Goddard’ not to spring to mind. We can always rely on Goddard to present some extravagant tulle pieces on the catwalk and for Autumn/Winter 2020 they are voluminous and bold yet still retain that delicate quality. A red dress consisting of ruffled tulle expands outwards and is layered over a jumper for a more casual look. We love how Goddard has paired a sense of volume and extravagance with a staple jumper. At Louis Vuitton, ruffles can also be seen amongst skirts and dresses, the sheerness of the fabric lending itself to layering. Ruffled skirts and dresses can be paired with a sheer trouser as seen in Louis Vuitton or with a checked trouser from Molly Goddard, creating a subtle layered look that is versatile for every season. Words by Brooke Savino

Graphics by Georgia Walters

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When your signature print has been sported by Dua Lipa for her ‘Future Nostalgia’ album shoot and Instagram-ed by the likes of Beyoncé and Kylie Jenner, you know it has achieved cult status. And 28-year-old Marine Serre’s instantly recognisable moon crescent logo has done just that – her staple designs featuring the signature motif have become a must-have among A-listers and a new generation of fashion-savvy fans.

But Serre’s eponymous brand is much more than hyped-up printed catsuits with a substantial list of celebrity followers. The French designer is part of an up-and-coming generation of innovative fashion visionaries looking to make their mark on the industry while setting a blueprint for a new way of making clothes that are quietly embedded with sustainable values.

Serre’s brand has become emblematized by the moon crescent icon, whose eclectic spiritual symbolism represents freedom, fluidity and femininity. Each season fresh iterations are sent down the runway, in varying unapologetic colour combinations and innovative styles. Futuristic shapewear silhouettes, head-to-toe bodysuits, tights, and dresses are emblazoned with the print, offering a cocktail of the ​sportif and luxury, with sportswear shapes speaking to the youth of today, though never sacrificing on femininity. This is exactly what Marine Serre envisions and what her clothes represent – strong, armoured women in touch with their femininity and playfulness.

Her ability to capture contemporary culture through hybrid garments with eclectic references won Serre the LVMH Young Designer Award in 2017, just a year after graduating from fashion school, from which she went onto present her first runway collection in Paris in 2018. Her rapid success can be attributed to her strong vision, one that she established from the off and conveys through each of her collections, moulding the codes of her brand’s identity to each new season’s offerings.

Sustainability and inclusivity are at the forefront of Serre’s brand ethos, will models of all ages, sexes, races, and shapes gracing her runways each season, meanwhile her forward-thinking textiles show a commitment to upcycling that sets a powerful example for how the industry can shift towards a more sustainable future. Recycled plastic raincoats, upcycled denim, dresses crafted from deadstock material, or patchworked from vintage scarves are all examples of how Serre has weaved sustainable values into her brand without compromising her vision. Serre’s couture is one that is synonymous with care. She’s got plenty of other tools up her sleeve, too – a mastery of tailoring and intricately cut shapes, and subtle nods to haute couture in the form of dramatic silhouettes and evening gowns.

The clothes take on political meaning set against the backdrop of her apocalyptic runway shows, with collections entitled ‘Radiation’ or ‘Marée Noire’ – translating to ‘oil spill’ or ‘black tide’ – depicting dystopias in which humans have destroyed everything on Earth. Her Autumn/Winter 2019 runway saw fleets of warrior-like figures from the future emerging from the darkness of an underground wine cellar in Paris, a post-apocalyptic vision of a subterranean community creating a new world. It’s a powerful motif, one that reflects her brand ethos and the way she sees the future of fashion – unflinchingly confronting what’s going on in the world and the dangers our planet faces, but never losing her sense of optimism and hope. Her boundary-pushing shows are an apt encapsulation of this special savvy for merging reality and fantasy in a way that’s reflective about how fashion can find its place in today’s world, and in the future, and what it should stand for. Words by Ruby McAuliffe

Graphics by Georgia Walters

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“There is too much value placed on stability greatness can only be found through rebellion.”

These women have achieved greatness in their prospective industries by rebelling against the norm and rewriting the rules.

Lizzo

Lizzo an American pop artist who gained mainstream success when she released her number one single ‘truth hurts’ the singer-songwriter made waves with her unapologetic. Confidence in her body despite societal views. She continues to push the envelope with her fashion, music, live shows and recently as she twerked at a basketball game in a thong peeping through the hole cut at the back of her shirt. Time and time again Lizzo has proved she is 100% that bitch.

Billie Eilish

Billie Eilish an American singer and songwriter first broke out on the scene in 2016 with her single “Ocean Eyes”. The teenager’s dark and unsettling tonal songs seem to relate to all the experience of the gen Z proven as she swept the board recently with five Grammys. Billie Eilish seems to have re-written what it means to be a pop star from her music to a neon oversized and animated sense of fashion, she continues to contradict and pave her own path.

Phoebe Waller-Bridge

Screenwriter and actress Phoebe Waller-Bridge is known for writing tv hits like Fleabag and Killing Eve continues to entertain us with unique female characters. In the tv comedy Fleabag, she presents a female character with mental issues, a failing business and a difficult family navigating life and still made us laugh. In Killing Eve, she presents two opposite females: one an erratic female assassin and the other an obsessive ambitious investigator who chase each other around the world. Her works Present wholesome female characters with realistic three-dimensional personalities

Marine Serre

Futuristic Upcycled and hybrid are just a few words that describe the French brand Marine Serre. Marine Serre is a French designer founded the brand after working under fashion biggest names like Demna Gvasalia. She has gained an occult following for her blurring the lines between ready-to-wear, couture, tailoring and sportswear. Her garments are easily identifiable by her iconic crescent moon shape and also the by use of upcycled materials to create hybrid garments. Her creations are a view of a sustainable future of fashion.

Phoebe Philo

Philophile a term coined for the fan base of the former creative director of Céline (accent on the e) British designer Phoebe Philo. The former creative director amassed great support from fans during her time in Céline. For the first-time women felt that the designer wasn’t guessing what women would like she just knew it. Philo a mother of three presented clothes that featured realistic femininity. Her designs featured aspects of functionality and wearability that seemed to relate with many. Her less is more strategy in early 2010 gave birth to today’s minimalism in women’s fashion. In summary, her work presented women femininity from a female perspective.

Words by Precious Njoki

Graphics by Séverine Denis-Lessard

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