Karoline Vitto

Known for celebrating the natural female form in the most thoughtful way possible, Karoline Vitto has continued to celebrate curves and accentuate folds in her LWF show. While some designers dress plus size models as an afterthought, Karoline Vitto has always had curvy queens at the heart of her label, designing clothes to empower every woman and every body type as a rebellion to the restrictive beauty standards of ‘90s Brazil, where she grew up. Placing the body at the centre of the design process, these SS25 designs for LFW are bold, unforgettable, and unapologetic in their celebration of curvy and plus size models, really showcasing how beautiful their runway is.

Encapsulating an earth tone palette with pops of pink and red scattered throughout, what sets Karoline Vitto apart is the ambitious cut-outs in the pieces, utilising the body itself as an integral piece of the design. Often seen accompanying the cut outs are pops of silver wiring, highlighting and drawing attention to the skin, daring you to look away, and knowing you can’t.

Influencer and plus size model Felicity Hayward has also expressed her love for Karoline Vitto this LFW, seen wearing a gifted dress by the designer to attend the show, and taking to Instagram to express how emotional she is to see

the front row full of plus size guests, explaining ‘do you know how important this is for us?’ and thanking Karoline Vitto for ‘making [her] feel seen’.

Chet Lo

With ambitious texture at its core, Chet Lo has again been showcasing his extensive knitwear knowledge through his SS25 show at LFW. The 3D textured spikes in knitted fabrics take centre-stage in a grey-scale colour palette accompanied by pops of blue, teal, and duck egg in a perfect homage to a pastel spring season in 2025.

But the fashion isn’t all we’re praising Chet Lo for this September, with the designer revolutionising fashion shows for the blind and visually impaired. Previously, visually impaired fashion fans have been an afterthought with runways being such a visual expereince. But working with non-profit Hair & Care, an organisation supporting visually impaired women care for their hair, Chet Lo was able to develop a third runway show, featuring a prerecorded audio description of the garments along with a tactile tour of the collection 30 minutes prior to the show commencing, to allow guests to take in and digest the information before providing textured fabric swatches to experience during the show. 20 blind / visually impaired guests were invited to the show and expressed their love and gratitude to Chet Lo for this unforgettable experience. Having always been very inclusive with the casting, Chet Lo explained that the show “felt like a natural extension to that”.

HARRI

Breaking the mould both socially and literally is HARRI with bold new silhouettes in their signature black latex stealing the show at LFW. The bold dom style is all about expressing innovative takes on structure and form, creating a visually explorative catwalk seeking to revolutionise conventional body shape in a celebration of the weird and wonderful. Awarded the Practical

Intelligent Genius Foundation prize, the Indian born artist behind the label has once again showed that style knows no bounds in the SS25 show.

From Harri’s passion for bodybuilding his experimental take on form takes shape and illustrates how one’s form should be highlighted and accentuated as a pledge to non-conformity.

Nensi Dojaka

Bringing sexy back is the exceptional Nensi Dojaka, who has been perfecting her craft since the label’s debut in 2019, with her LFW SS25 catwalk. Specialising in intricate strap work and use of sheer fabrics, pieces expertly portray how lingerie washed in luxury can empower the wearer and expertly showcase the feminine form. In a balance of strength and delicacy, the runway was hot with nude tones, earthy burgundies, and subtle pinks to celebrate nudity in their collaboration with design powerhouse, Calvin Klein. Dojaka’s signature juxtaposition of delicate fabrics, muted colours, and daring silhouettes can be seen on their runway this fashion week

Nensi Dojaka’s background in architecture is more apparent than ever in her designs this week through the use of geometric strap work, casting shapes and shadows across chest and torso in a labyrinth of sensuality. Dojaka has also been outspoken in her advocacy for inclusion, with “the idea of putting [the pieces] on women of different backgrounds and different shapes” being imperative to decision making, and the image of the campaign.

Di Petsa

Aphrodite was born of the seafoam, rising out of the water on the shore of Cyprus, and Greek designer Dimitra Petsa knows the birth of beauty herself all too well. In the bold exploration of an ecofeminist relationship between women and water, design powerhouse Di Petsa has shown London what it means to live on Olympus this LFW. The brand’s ethos is the careful combination of

traditional craftsmanship, sustainable textile development, and drapery techniques with performance, art, and film to build timeless, ethereal pieces that last the test of time.

Their SS25 collection, showed at LFW, takes their signature mermaid- esque look and combines it with a warmer colour palette to move their siren aesthetic toward a more goddess-centred look. Focusing on experimental cut- outs, gold accessories, warm tones, and denim Di Petsa are making waves with their new terrain while staying true to their wet roots and fluid fabric.

Stealing the show was influencer and plus size male model, James Corbin, who beautifully debuted Di Petsa’s male wear collection. Looking as though he rose from the sea foam himself, Corbin was draped in Di Petsa’s signature Wetlook fabric, coloured in a warm blend of orange, pink, and maroon tones exquisitely complimenting his rich skin tone. While runways have taken amazing strides in body inclusivity for women, plus size male models are unfortunately still a rarity, but there is no one better to lead the movement than James Corbin who so expertly took to the catwalk and walked for men everywhere.

Masha Popova

In their SS25 collection, Impulse, grunge experts Masha Popova have expertly combined sensuality with playful draping in an oxymoronic collection that is both elegant and care-free. Ukrainian designer Popova has fused fantasy with her Ukrainian roots in an homage to her childhood memories in a collage of modern high fashion and raw energy of the ‘90s and early 2000s. The SS25 collection was a masterclass in denim, tie-dye, and acid wash, using her signature faded denim textile and complementary muted colours in a beautifully retro aesthetic.

Sinead Gorey

School is in session, and we’re all invited to the LFW school disco which quickly became the talk of the cafeteria. In a runway situated in a sports hall lined with streamers and balloons, the class of SS25 graced the runway in pastels, stripes, and high tops in an aesthetic that can only be described as where preppy meets grunge. Inspired by party culture, Gorey shares her love for bold prints, extreme cutouts, and youthful colours in a rave aesthetic that reminds the audience that fashion is supposed to be fun! Her use of plaid, stripes, and laces are also reminiscent of our school days in a style that Avril Levine herself would be proud of.

And like so many others this LFW, Sinead Gorey understands the importance of body inclusion and has incorporated many body shapes and sizes into her runway. Remining the audience that there is no ‘one size fits all’ in creativity, we have all been invited to don our Converse and spike the punch bowl next spring / summer.

Completedworks

In a piece eloquently titled ‘A Stone is a Small Mountain’, Completedworks’ SS25 jewellery collection took centre stage in their runway that brought a timeless essence to a melancholy beauty. A tortured ballerina draped in pearls is the archetype for their collection, taking inspiration from hope for a better future in their mission for sustainability and responsibly sourced materials. This gothic coquette look is effortlessly Tim Burton meets Black Swan in a stunning exploration of form, with pieces that weave, flow, loop, twist, and expand in a bid to “explore the questions of the human condition, history, politics, language, and art”.

Tolu Coker

In her new collection for SS25, LFW has been teleported back to the ‘70s in a sentimental ode to her mother, Olapeju Coker. The name Olapeju means ‘wealth

gathers’ and Tolu Coker has taken this meaning to heart in her expression of the wealth of community and culture through her sustainable, luxury fashion. With the show space being transformed into her late father’s living room adorned with photographs of proud black women posing in puff sleeves and sculptured head wraps, Coker expresses her British-Nigerian heritage in her collection rooted in community, craftsmanship, and culture.

Founded in 2021, this label has always had powerful black women at its’ heart and has continued this legacy in LFW, casting black models in a beautiful runway carrying a notable ‘70s aesthetic through earth tones and vintage designs. The pops of vibrant green throughout the show add a pinch of the contemporary to the collection while paying homage to the Nigerian flag.

Mains London

At the forefront of the grime-scene is rapper, producer, and filmmaker, Skepta’s fashion venture Mains London. In a distinctive style he calls ‘hood luxury’, Skepta is taking on a new vibe for SS25 in an ‘Ivy League’ look that adds a preppy aesthetic to the primarily sportwear designs. Seen on their runway is shiny textures and fabrics this September, utilising leathers and latex to add this note to the looks which perfectly accompanies the ‘old money’ sense being portrayed. Hints of baggy and oversized silhouettes, which are very apparent in current runways and collections, have been spotted but in a subtle way, effortlessly adding to the nonchalant ease of the collection. Showcasing an all- American colour palette of red, white, blue, and beige, Mains London has managed to keep in tone with its’ sporty and streetwise essence through styling boxing shorts and trainers but has managed to move into a sophisticated and studious aesthetic in a natural way that makes sense for the brand.

KNWLS

Brains behind KNWLS, Charlotte Knowles, has showcased her SS25 collection, Haze, in an expert blend of femininity with a rebellious edge. The use of leather, floating fabrics, and barely-there mesh in a kaleidoscope of earth tones on her runway give a fierce and bold take on classically feminine silhouettes, fabrics, and patterns. Known for her acid wash finish on leather, Knowles has managed to encompass the bold and the demure in her looks, utilising soft pastel greens to soften the shiny leather fabric. The sheer, mesh fabric has been used for blocking in some pieces to create geometric designs while tassels, laces, and ribbons have become an overarching motif to her collection, adding a unique and distinctive movement to her pieces.

Richard Quinn

Effortlessly chic Richard Quinn has graced LFW in an SS25 runway that is as timeless and elegant as ever. Bold and emotive garments in striking black and white fabrics littered with 3D motifs to further enhance their iconic old money aesthetic have been showcased, highlighting Quinn’s meticulous attention to detail. Feathers, flowers, and 3D fabrics have redefined high fashion sensibility with a couture-inspired edge adding explorative texture to a black-tie dress code, while exaggerated, oversized silhouettes add a contemporary, modern flair to the collection. The Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design recipient has stayed true to their signature florals, evening silhouettes, and statement outerwear in this collection, combining enviable handcrafted skill with innovative fabrications in a truly iconic statement.

Natasha Zinko

Pioneer in the gender fluidity of fashion is designer Natasha Zinko, whose emphasis on sustainable, recycles materials, and open approach to ‘gendered’ clothing has redefined ‘unisex’. Unisex in fashion typically translates to the absence of gender in a garment, but in Zinko’s LFW collection, she has kept the

essence of typical feminine and masculine clothing in her unisex clothing, creating accessible pieces for all genders to explore without losing this essence that is so intrinsically linked to identity and expression.

In a collage of daring cutouts, floral prints, denim, and leather, the SS25 collection most notably features the innovative use of safety pins both in cut- outs and in the absence of fabric. Giving a new identity to recycled materials, this is perhaps the most ambitious definition of recycled material, but reward definitely comes with this risk as no one can take their eyes off of these pieces perfectly encompassing delicate and robust.

Words By Isobel O’Conner

The post 13 Designers You Need to Know About at London Fashion Week appeared first on Voir Fashion.

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LFW40 aims to highlight London’s unique creative communities, independent businesses, and its status as a leading cultural capital. This year’s schedule introduces exciting new talents and established names, promising a vibrant and diverse array of fashion presentations.

New designers on the schedule include:

• Harris Reed
• Patrick McDowell
• Standing Ground

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These newcomers will be presenting alongside Completedworks and EDELINE LEE, both of whom have been awarded coveted Catwalk slots. Additionally, Mithridate will join the schedule with a special Presentation format.

Returning Designers:

• Kent & Curwen
• Nensi Dojaka
• TOGA

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This season’s schedule is packed with noteworthy shows and presentations from renowned designers, including:

• 16Arlington
• Ahluwalia
• Burberry
• Chopova Lowena
• DAVID KOMA
• Dilara Findikoglu
• Emilia Wickstead
• ERDEM
• FASHION EAST
• KNWLS
• Richard Quinn
• ROKSANDA
• Simone Rocha
• TOVE

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A major highlight this season is the return of the BFC NEWGEN Show Space at the iconic 180 The Strand. This platform will feature both physical and digital activations from emerging designers.

Physically Presenting BFC NEWGEN Designers are:

• AARON ESH
• ANCUȚA SARCA
• Charlie Constantinou
• Chet Lo
• DI PETSA
• DERRICK
• HARRI
• Johanna Parv
• Karoline Vitto
• LUEDER
• MASHA POPOVA
• Paolo Carzana
• Pauline Dujancourt
• Sinéad O’Dwyer
• The Winter House
• TOLU COKER
• YAKU

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Digitally Presenting BFC NEWGEN Designers:

• Kazna Asker
• Leo Carlton
• Steve O Smith

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The final schedule, including specific timings and formats for each activation, will be released in August 2024. This comprehensive schedule will provide further details to ensure attendees can make the most of this landmark event.

The hybrid approach adopted by LFW September 2024 seeks to combine the best of both worlds. By offering both physical and digital presentations, the event maximizes accessibility and engagement while maintaining the irreplaceable experience of live fashion shows. This approach allows designers to reach wider audiences without sacrificing the intimate, impactful moments that define traditional runway shows.

As the fashion industry continues to adapt and innovate, the balance between physical and digital presentations will likely evolve, reflecting changes in technology, audience preferences, and global circumstances. For now, the hybrid model offers a dynamic and inclusive way to celebrate fashion, ensuring that creativity and innovation remain at the forefront.

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Accreditation for LFW September 2024 is now open. It is available to fashion industry professionals such as press, buyers, influencers, stylists, photographers, broadcasters, and sales agents. Interested parties can apply for accreditation here. 

Additionally, the LFW City Wide Celebration returns this season, offering a range of events and activations open to the public. This initiative aims to engage the broader community, making fashion accessible to everyone. As LFW40 approaches, the anticipation builds for a week filled with creativity, innovation, and celebration of London’s pivotal role in the fashion world. Stay tuned for more updates and prepare to witness fashion history in the making.

_{Written By Bethan Gwynne}

The post London Fashion Week September 2024: Celebrating 40 Years of Fashion Excellence appeared first on Voir Fashion.

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The campaign attempts to bring together Bridal, Swim, and Menswear in a romantic collection that uses DI PETSA’s signature wetlook drapery. Think of ancient Greek sculpture work as you take in this campaign, looking at the way the marble work of statues such as Aphrodite of Milos or Ermis of Samothraki reflects in the craftsmanship of the drapery of the fabric, the wetlook mirroring the marble clothing that adorns the statues. With these references, DI PETSA incorporates wedding rituals whilst also subverting traditional gender roles, exploring the male and female dynamic by showing a raw and unfiltered emotion in the models, with men aggressively reaching for bouquets of flowers as their tears merge with the fabric of their garments against a stark, black background whilst women appear in a much calmer, neutral manner as they move sensually and in harmony with each other. 

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The campaign was headed by photographer Louisa Vradi and art directed by Christos Petritzis (Ruins Agency), masterfully shooting, and interpreting the heightened emotional state of falling in love through a mythological lens. Through this interpretation, we see DI PETSA exploring the arena of menswear for the first time. The brand has previously specialised in womenswear, therefore this new chapter for DI PETSA presents an exciting vision through DI PETSA’s lens of how menswear can be interpreted. Their use of the wetlook drapery in clothing intended for male-use garments will hopefully leave room for wider interpretation of menswear for the brand, perhaps for their main SS25 collection. 

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This campaign, titled Wet Brides Act II – Eros in Pain, entails 20 looks – playing into bridalwear with all-white pieces, styled with gold accents via jewellery and chains. Shell-shaped pieces and healing moonstone crystals also feature throughout the collection. DI PETSA’s first venture in menswear in this collection saw a wetlook two-piece trouser set with carefully draped, full length trousers and a cropped shirt with a peak of collarbone.

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Draped, white shirts and tiny, lace-up swim shorts also appeared in the menswear selection, igniting a sense of femininity amongst the womenswear we also see throughout the campaign. Beautiful, white dresses and bikinis allude to the bridalwear that lies at the heart of the collection, with strong references to Aphrodite and her fountain via the wetlook drapery and silhouettes of the dresses that appear akin to the dresses worn in Greek scripture and drawings of ancient Greek gods and goddesses.

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The womenswear is intricately adorned with clear, crystal embroidery and held together with gold jewellery chains, beautifully creating a sense of ethereality, and narrating a story of transformative love and desire where vulnerability meets strength in men’s and womenswear. 

DI PETSA invites you to experience “the pain and transformative power of love” which dresses but also undresses emotions, making visible the invisible currents between us, clothes soaked in emotion. 

The film campaign can be found here. 

_{Written By Bethan Gwynne}

The post Eros Unveiled: DI PETSA’s New Collection Debuts At London Fashion Week appeared first on Voir Fashion.

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BFC Chief Executive, Caroline Rush, shares her thoughts on LFW40: “As we continue our celebrations of LFW40, we are thrilled to share a new concept for LFW June which will amplify our designers and promote the diverse menswear businesses, from streetwear to Savile Row, as well as retail in the city. We will celebrate and pay homage to some of the cultures which contribute so much to the UK fashion industry, the aim is to build on this with different cultures each year.“

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She goes on to say “The new format is a direct result of the conversations we are continuously having with the BFC community (designers, media, UK, and international retailers). We want to ensure we are recognising the business needs of our designers and providing them with a global showcasing platform which is both relevant and beneficial. This iteration of LFW is a really exciting opportunity to future proof and innovate the UK’s fashion showcasing capabilities and highlight the city’s point of difference during Men’s fashion month.” 

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On the first day, 7^th June, the BFC will take over the Institute of Contemporary Arts (ICA) with a triple-threat of guest curators aimed to create a cultural programme of events that will celebrate three of the cultures that have made a rich and significant contribution to the British fashion industry. LFW40 will be centred around and informed by three cultures this year: Black culture concentrating on self-love; South Asian culture focusing on pattern, textile, and craftsmanship; and queer culture spotlighting young creative voices from the trans community. British brands and designers will aim to tell the stories of the communities within these cultures, with LFW40 providing a platform for the members of those communities to tell personal stories and give perspectives on what their culture means to them.

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The programme of curated cultural events will consist of a myriad of activities including three events by special guest curators:

• Afternoon “T” – “You make this place beautiful” hosted by poet, model, consultant, and visibility activist Kai-Isaiah Jamal
• Conversations: A dinner celebrating South Asian impact on British fashion hosted by writer and creative, Simran Randhawa
• Sound & Harmony: Spotlighting Black artists hosted by award winning radio and television broadcaster, Clara Amfo. 
• All photographed and exhibited by photographers Dani D’Ingeo, Stephen Akinyemi, and Tami Aftab 

As well as a celebration of culture, the weekend also marks the 40^th anniversary of LFW June. The BFC will celebrate the breadth of British menswear with a ’40 for 40’ programme in honour of LFW40. This programme will include a bill of 40 activations hosted by British brands and designers across London. From Savile Row to sportswear, the event will consist of catwalk shows, presentations, and events that will provide designers and their brands with a powerful activation space allowing them to showcase their talents in menswear creation. 

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The ’40 for 40’ programme will include:

• Designers scheduled include LOVERBOY, denzilpatrick, Charles Jeffrey, HARRI, and QASIMI.
• The announcement of the winner of the BFC/GQ Designer Fashion Fund 
• Intro to Savile Row with clothsurgeon, Gieves & Hawkes, Richard James, The Deck and more
• Run Clubs with LABRUM Run Club Powered by Adidas and 247 by Represent
• Designer showcase at the Groucho Club with CARLOTA BARRERA, denzilpatrick, DERRICK, HARRI, KYLE HO, LUEDER, Paolo Carzana, and ROKER

On Saturday 8^th June, the BFC will open up to give us ‘Consumer Day.’ This will open LFW to a consumer audience, inviting guests to observe the cultural programmes at the ICA. In addition, 1664 Blanc will host an activation titled ‘Explorations in Blue’ which entails four exclusive panels discussing key issues that face the industry with experts including Charles Jeffrey, Munroe Bergdorf, and Rejina Pyo. Tickets can be found here.

_{Written By Bethan Gwynne}

The post London Fashion Week’s 40th Anniversary Celebrates Culture appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Di Petsa

Greek designer Di Petsa channelled her recent heartbreak into one of the most talked about collections for the week. The collection took inspiration from the designers own Greek Orthadox upbringing and with Greece just finally legalizing same sex marriage, the collection was a fitting display of love.

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With high profile models like Cindy Kimberly, Duckie and Jessie Jo Stark dripping in bells – the show definitely impressed. The collection encapsulated the overall goddess theme of the Di Petsa brand, with a display of Venus being birthed on the runway mixed with their signature wet look, trompe-l’oeil illusion dresses.

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Sinead O’Dwyer

Last Season, Irish designer Sinead O’Dwyer hosted her show at her alma matter – The London Royal College of Art MA classroom. The designer chatted with a journalist as her models walked and displayed her pieces. It was a refreshing change for attendees and set excitement for her proceeding shows. 

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This year, the show was hosted at the Old Selfridges hotel, pivoting to a far more central focal point, which was a theme that seemed to extend to the clothes. The designer went back to the brands basics and expressed she focussed her design on body shape, “I design for a diverse body, that’s the thing that drives the brand.” Which we can completely identify with here at VOIR. “From the very beginning of every design, I’m thinking about those body shapes, what sort of garments they might want to wear and how I can interpret things.”

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Simone Rocha

After a jaw dropping display of mature elegance at Paris Haute Couture fashion week, Simone Rocha is riding the wave right into London. The Irish born designer seems to be on an ever-proceeding incline to becoming one of the biggest names in fashion after taking over the Jean Paul Gautier show and receiving praise from the designer himself.

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Her London Collection took a far more playful, childlike approach with models carrying stuffed animal toys as accessories. She also took the opportunity to announce yet another Rocha x Crocs collaboration, which worked perfectly with the youthful vibe of the collection. 

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JW Anderson

JW Anderson put a charming womenswear spin on the eclectic Grandpa trend that’s been circulating for the last few months. They did this by utilising chunky knits, thick wool coats, tweed, English style under garments and lots of slippers.

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Anderson cited Last of the Summer Wine, a British sit com based around old age pensioners in Yorkshire, as one of his key inspirations.  He captured this Northern aesthetic perfectly and the collection offered itself as a comfortable slice of British nostalgia.

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Dilara Findikoglu

Turkish-british Dilara Fındıkoğlu has become one of the most anticipated collections, not down to but aided by her recent success dressing Margot Robbie for the Barbie premiere after party. The designer chose to host her show in a church, which she sees as a “safe space”. 

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The much-awaited collection consisted of corsets, bodices, bright reds and deconstructed under garments. The idea behind the collection was to “destroy the corporate man “and rebel against male-built society. “I am really into the female form and as a female designer, I just need to celebrate the body,” Fındıkoğlu was reported saying.

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Dreaming Eli

Dreaming Eli is one of the designers to watch, founded by the incredibly talented Elisa Trombatore, who graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2021 with an MA in Fashion. The brand aims to empower women and fight against stereotypes through it’s designs, encouraging power in femininity as well as balancing it with power and danger. 

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Her SS24 collection was titled “Wild Hearts Bleed” and the entire collection encapsulates her the strength and beauty of femininity. The designer achieved this by using boned corsets with hard structured silhouettes, and pairing them with soft colours and delicate fabrics.

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_{Written By Lauren Dickson}

The post LFW40: Whilst Celebrating 40 Years Of London Fashion Week, Who Stole The Show? appeared first on Voir Fashion.

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Explore the provisional schedule here _{https://londonfashionweek.co.uk/schedule}

The British Fashion Council (BFC) is delighted to release the provisional schedule for London Fashion Week (LFW) February 2024 as it celebrates the event’s 40th anniversary. Taking place from Friday 16th to Tuesday 20th February, the schedule is a digital-physical hybrid. LFW40 will spotlight London’s unique creative communities and its position as a world leading cultural capital.

The BFC is pleased to announce that from 2024 fur is banned from the LFW schedule. The requirement was implemented for the 2024 application process. The schedule features both menswear and womenswear designers, with highlights including iconic British luxury brand Burberry, as well as 16Arlington, Alhuwalia, DAVID KOMA, Dilara Findikoglu, dunhill, Emilia Wickstead, ERDEM, Eudon Choi, FASHION EAST, JW Anderson, KNWLS, Marques’Almeida, Molly Goddard, Richard Quinn, ROKSANDA, and Simone Rocha.

This season, the BFC NEWGEN Show Space will return to The Old Selfridges Hotel, thanks to the generous support of Selfridges. BFC NEWGEN designers on schedule include AARON ESH, ANCUȚA SARCA, Chet Lo, Conner Ives, DERRICK, DI PETSA, FEBEN, HARRI, HELEN KIRKUM, Kazna Asker, LABRUM London, Leo Carlton, MASHA POPOVA, Paolo Carzana, ROBYN LYNCH, SAUL NASH, Sinéad O’Dwyer, The Winter House, TOLU COKER and yuhan wang.

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The final physical and digital schedule will be released in January 2024 and will include further updates and specific information regarding the format and timings of each activation.

Accreditation for LFW February 2024 is now open. Accreditation is reserved for fashion industry professionals attending the event in a work capacity (press, buyers, influencers, stylists, photographers, broadcasters, sales agents). Apply for accreditation here.

Returning this season is the LFW City Wide Celebration, a programme of events and activations open to the public over LFW.

_{Written By Voir Editorial Team}

_{Header Image: @LondonFashionWeek Instagram}

The post The British Fashion Council Announces London Fashion Week February 2024 Provisional Schedule As It Celebrates Its 40th Anniversary appeared first on Voir Fashion.

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Di Petsa

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First up, London’s opening act: Di Petsa. Her SS24 collection ‘Reflections of Venus’ was inspired by the Greek Goddess of love. The show took us on a journey of womanhood filled with symbolism toward the deity, creating an ethereal dream of eroticism. Nude and ivory loose dresses depicted feminine purity, followed by references to sensual awakenings through revealing and tight-fitting silhouettes.

What followed was an embrace of dark femininity with long sheer, black gowns, and a woman holding an ancient jug to her belly, as if pregnant, to represent motherhood. But perhaps the most jaw-drawing moment was the show’s start: a naked model was surrounded by women who, led by Petsa herself, caressed and danced around her before she emerged in a metallic gold gown. Birth of Venus, indeed.

Some garments had Swarovski healing crystals as a nod to self-love, and the closing look was reminiscent of a wedding dress which, to some, is the culmination of love. The Greek designer masterfully weaved references to the birth of Venus myth, with colours tones of sea foam sculpted bikinis, and her now infamous wet-look conveying (quite literally) the goddess’ emergence from the sea. Despite her show last year making a splash, it’s her storytelling and embrace of the divine feminine this year that makes Di Petsa a must-watch name in our list.

Mowalola

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NSFW graphic tees, hentai emblazoned polos, micro belt skirts, and barely-there undies, alongside makeup fetishising a car crash. Who else could create such a scandalous and carnal collection other than the dark-humoured Mowalola Ogunlesi?

But the Nigerian-born designer has a reason for it: she stumbled upon the 1995 erotic thriller ‘Crash’ and was instantly inspired.Thus the collection was filled with skin-bearing designs and clothes that spiked an uproar. Of course, she filled the runway with an array of political criticisms and jabs to the elite too; hats, cycling dresses, and leather skirts were filled with distressed Union Jacks and Japanese or Chinese flags, all while Donald Trump screamed ‘China, Chins, China’ in the background.

There was even a direct stab at the late Karl Lagerfeld, as two models conjoined at the arms walked in an oversized version of his ‘only4slim people’ micro tee. Other models walked in twos as well, in a way that Mowalola says “is giving twin-personality”.

With Irina Shayk opening the show in a metallic silver dress and Kanye West (a.k.a. Ye) and his new wife Bianca Censori watching from the front row Mowalola has certified itself as the IT-brand in popular culture.

Natasha Zinko

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London-based designer Natasha Zinko is another designer that stole the show on day one, debuting her SS24 collection ‘THE CAMP’. She took the camping theme for a streetwear-esque spin, with meldingutilitarian and gorpcore aesthetics decorating models fiercely stomped down the runway.

As well as referencing camping on holiday, Zinko also referenced the lifestyle through the journey of humans nomad origins to present day. All about cropped hoodies, wide sweatpants, caps, and cargo pants, the concept is also a nod to the war in her home country of Ukraine, present in the backpacks that doubled as vests, distressed textiles, and nylon reminiscent of tents’ material. Zinko transformed Soho Square into an emo campsite, even gathering a crowd of curious onlookers outside.

But what we loved the most about the show was her desire to normalize underwear. She said: “In a polarised world, one thing that unites us is underwear. We all wear it; we all travel with it, stuff it in suitcases; so why do we hide it?.”

Sinead Gorey

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It doesn’t get more British than Sinead Gorey’s ‘Summer of Love’ collection. For her debut show, she paid ode to her London roots and teenage rave years by creating the ultimate clubwear collection, charged with references to her Britishness. Described in her own words as, “That’s Sarcasm, pubs, unpredictable weather, and a love of partying.”

Punk, rave, and Britpop themes were present in the acid bright colours, weed graphics, wool two pieces, and lacy biker shorts.There were even explicit references to UK culture, with patch worked stripes nodding at Kate Moss’ legendary 2005 picture at Glastonbury and Ginger Spice’s iconic Union Jacks boots.

The show also debuted her collab with Buffallo, showing off the studded leather mules and bondage platforms. With her signature playfulness and bright colors, Gorey is soon to become a staple for British party girls everywhere.

SRVC

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For his debut at LFW, Ricky Wesley Harriott honed in on a feeling we all know and love to hate: FOMO. The appropriately named ‘Wish I Were Here’ collection exposes how the perfection of the holiday getaways we see on social media is false, distorting clothes in a way that calls out that infamous digital face tune.

Think distorted blazers, upside-down knitwear, and cropped hoodies accentuating to-tiny waists. The Tottenham-born designer also stayed true to his signature style, showcasing transformable clothes that can be worn from the office straight to the club. From cargo pants with adjustable waistbands to leather jackets with removable sleeves, SRVC focused on melding a sci-fi utilitarian aesthetic with elevated quality. With the brand finally launching in big retailers like Selfridges this year, Harriot is the newcomer to watch.

KNWLS

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Is there anything more iconic than having Mia Khalifa close your show? We don’t think so, it’s been an exciting two weeks for the South London-based brand Knwls, debuting their collab with Gaultier at NYFW just before having a LFW show that ended in hoots and hollers. For their ‘Petrol’ SS24 collection, designers Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault stuck to their staples– but that didn’t mean it wasn’t innovative.

Brand superfans will recognize the signature corsets and broken leather jackets strutting down the runway, only this time they came with a rebellious twist. Feminine silhouettes contrasted with jagged spikes, scratched-out camo, and new denim washes, elevated the classics to match the theme. Inspired by a ‘need for speed’, the pair stirred up looks that seem to be fresh out of the races– and as scandalously muddy and dirty as this would expect. After partnering with a titan like Gaultier, there’s no doubt that the cult label Knwls is soon to be thrown into a stardom.

Ahluwalia

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For her SS24 show titled ‘Acknowledgements’, designer Priya Ahluwalia focused on just that: acknowledging history’s unspoken heroes. Appropriately hosted at the cultural hub that is the British Library, the collection was filled with references to iconic figures such as Marsha P.Johnson, the 60s LGBTQ activist and drag queen.

‘Illusion knitwear’ predominated, challenging viewers to take a closer look at the clothes (and history). But what’s been causing waves post-show has been her blend of occasion wear, as she styled tracksuits under slinky party tops and beach skirts with buttons up. There’s no doubt that those double-breasted suits with neon blue striping on the sides will be everywhere in 2024.

Label signatures like the saturated orange, green, and brown colors were seen on trendy items like football shirts, flowing gowns, and varsity jackets. Zebra prints, floral motifs, and graphics of indigenous sculptures paid homage to the Ahluwalia’s African heritage, while the ‘A’ emblem seen embroidered throughout the collection directly referenced her initial. With a standing ovation as she came out at the end of the show, Ahluwalia’s success is just getting started.

^{Words by Alexia De Las Heras}

^{Header Image by @mowalola}

The post Everything You Need To Know About LFW 2023! appeared first on Voir Fashion.

London Fashion Week each year showcases a global range of talented designers that amplify creativity, culture and commerciality and this year is no different. September’s London Fashion Week will feature a whole load of new and talented creatives such as Denzilpatrick, Frolov, Holzweiler and many more. As part of ‘Support Ukranian Fashion’ London Fashion Week and Ukrainian Fashion Week have also teamed up to present three Ukanian Designers; Elenvareva, Kseniaschnaider and Nadya Dzyak, this initiative launched by Ukrainian Fashion Week in order to support designers in Ukraine.

As well as many new designers you can also expect to see favourites such as trend setter Chet Lo, Dilara Findikoglu who’s runways are always an exciting event and well loved Classic British brands such as Burberry plus many others.

_{https://www.instagram.com/londonfashionweek/?hl=en}

After British Fashion Councils 30th anniversary of its internationally applauded BFC NEWGEN initiative, LFW is set to continue the year-long celebrations. “Highlighting the scheme’s illustrious history and alumni, and London’s legacy in nurturing emerging talent and the next generation of visionary creatives”, as quoted on the London Fashion Weeks Instagram. Make sure you don’t miss this fashion extravaganza full of creative genius and explore the full schedule through this link.

https://londonfashionweek.co.uk/schedule

For more information on this huge event, visit the LFW website or instagram as well as the British Fashion Council Website.

_{Written By Mia Washbrook}

^{Header Image By London Fashion Week}

The post What to Expect From London Fashion Weeks September 2023 Schedule appeared first on Voir Fashion.

The Wednesday Addams Effect

Ever since the hit Netflix show Wednesday graced our screens at the end of 2022, pop culture has gone wild for anything Wednesday related. At the fashion weeks, we saw a resemblance in the make-up looks that were styled on the catwalk to the aesthetics seen on the Netflix show. 

In New York, Rodarte styled bold blocked eyeliner, like the eyeliner that celebs such as Julia Fox have been pictured rocking in recent months. The gothic glam look is one that is clearly sticking around as it continues to gain popularity. Rodarte paired their eyeliner art with black lipstick to finish off this goth glam look. They used Nars products to create these killer looks; so we recommend using the Nars Lipstick in shade Heroine Red. This lipstick has a matte finish so we also recommend adding gloss on top to create that wet look that the model styled. To top it off, we think that the Nars High-Pigment Longwear Eyeliner would be perfect for creating those daring eyes. 

In London, it was Bora Aksu, Chet Lo and Simone Rocha that were honouring the gothic glam on their catwalk debuts. Bora Aksu’s looks looked like they had just stepped off the set of Wednesday, with their black lips and minimal eye makeup. Simone Roger had a unique twist to her looks that simulated the gothic glam aesthetic by having bows on the cheeks of her models as part of an accessory. Chet Lo incorporated the gothic glam by styling black bows and bow-like hairstyles, alongside black creative eyeliner and dark lips. These looks from London are all abbreviations of the gothic glam make-up trend that we’re all so obsessed with right now. 

The beauty of the gothic glam trend is that the base makeup is very minimal; it honours natural-looking skin and therefore you do not need full coverage products on your face to create this look. Using a good moisturiser and primer with minimal concealer and maybe some highlighter would be enough makeup needed to create the dewy skin look. 

When it comes down to styling some of the gothic glam looks, black lips and bold black eyeliner are our go-to. The Elf Cosmetics Expert Liquid Eyeliner or the Mac Brushstroke Liner would be the perfect products to use if you were thinking about going for the bold eyeliner aesthetic. The Lottie London Glitter Fix Bomb Face and Body Adhesive is an ideal product to use if you fancy copying Simone Rocha’s Face bows and need some glue to attach them.

In Milan, Etro and GCDS emphasised a softer take on the gothic glam look. They focused more on styling subtle smokey eyes or simply rocking basic black eyeliner. Out of all the looks, these ones are the most wearable for day-to-day looks. The Simpsons mini eyeshadow palette by Revolution has a lovely selection of shimmery black eyeshadows that would look perfect for a black smokey eye. The Dior Mono Couleur Couture eyeshadow in shade Black Bow is a matte black eyeshadow that will give your eyes intense colour and be perfect for a dramatic and well pigmented smokey eye look.

£ 23

NARS Lipstick, Heroine Red

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£ 19

NARS High-Pigment Longwear Eyeliner

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£ 3

e.l.f. Liquid Liner Jet Black

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£ 28.50

DIOR Mono Couleur Couture eyeshadow

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£ 10

Revolution X The Simpsons Mini Shadow Palette Raven Bart

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Shades of Shimmer 

The next theme that we noticed in New York and London Fashion Week was the shimmery starlike aesthetic that included sparkles across the eyes in a range of different styles.

In New York, Thom Browne created a masterpiece of the planets in his design which continued within the make-up and hairstyle that were created for his models. One of his models styled an updo that resembled a planet-like shape and was dyed white to look translucent by nature. 

He continued the theme of translucent white across the eyes by creating a white block shape that resembled a sort of eye mask on the model’s face. On top of the white base, the model-styled glittery Silver Stars dotted around the cheekbones and by the eyebrows. This portrayed the stars in the sky and is one of the most creative looks that we saw on the runway. Thom also dressed the model in long curly white nails to finish off this incredible look. For this look, we recommend using a combination of white eye shadow, white concealer or white face paint to help build up a pigmented base that the model. 

Using either white concealer or white face paint as a base and adding in eye shadow on top means that you will have higher coverage and a smoother look to the make-up look and won’t have to use as much eye shadow to help build up pigment. The Cosmetics Camo Concealer in a white shade is a full coverage concealer that would be perfect as a base for this look. The Depixym Cosmetic Emulsion in shade Bright White is another alternative product that you can use to help build up a pigmented white base. This product is a multi-use cream that is suitable for your eyes, lips, and cheeks. It has a lovely matte finish and is super blendable, so it is perfect for this look. Once you have a pigmented base, you can then go in with a powdery eye shadow for that finishing touch to create that smokey, dusty finish. 

The Mac eyeshadow or the Creator Revolution SFX White Base Matte Powder are two eyeshadow options that would suit this look well. For the glittering stars, we recommend using glitter eyeliner to create the stars on your face. The OPV Beauty Metal and Glitter Liner is a super pigmented glitter eyeliner that has a water base so it won’t smudge. 

Altuzarra was also present at NYC Fashion Week and styled a goddess-like vision on the runway with gold eyeliner designs across the model’s eyes. This makeup look is a different sort of shimmer compared to the other look that we saw in NYC fashion week. The one by Altuzarra is enchanting and mystical as it resembles a sort of Aphrodite aesthetic. The Kiko gold liquid eyeliner or the Dior eyeliner in shade Gold and Pearly Bronze would be perfect for this enchanting look. 

At London fashion week Conner Rives had a shimmery blue eyeshadow look that also resembled a mystical siren gaze, that was extremely flattering on the model and one that we are obsessed with. The shimmery blue levels up this look, making it dressy and seductive. Victoria Beckham’s Lid Lustre eyeshadow matches the one that Conner Rives’ model styles closely and therefore would be perfect to use.  A liquid eyeshadow would also be a good option for this look to create the pigmented and shiny aesthetic that Conner has gone for. The Sephora Collection of Colourful Special Effect Liquid eye shadow it’s a perfect product to use if you want a wet glossy look to this glittery eyeshadow style. 

£ 6

e.l.f Liquid Camo Concealer

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£ 18

DEPIXYM Cosmetic Emulsion – Deep White

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£ 6

OPV Beauty Metal & Glitter Liner

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£ 9.99

Sephora Collection Colorful Liquid Eyeshadow

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Old Hollywood Glamour 

One thing about beauty and fashion is that classic looks will always be relevant. One of the most staple pieces that the beauty industry has ever come across is the iconic red lip. This look is timeless and over the years we have seen many alterations. 

In New York, Christian Siriano created one of the sexiest and most sophisticated looks that we have seen on the runways this year. His model styled a-line coat and an elegant hat that covered her upper face revealing only her pouty red lips. She looked just like old Hollywood, glamourous, sexy and alluring. She had next to nothing underneath her coat as the only pop of colour being seen were her sultry red lips. The Dior Rouge Refillable lipstick is a lovely velvety lipstick that has good pigment and is irresistibly alluring. Alternatively, the Nars Audacious lipstick is a lovely cherry red and looks fun as well as sexy. 

To achieve that perfect pout a trusted lip liner will be an asset. The NYX Professional Makeup Suede Matte Liner in the shade Spicy it’s a lovely, coloured lip liner that would accentuate your lips beautifully and be a perfect base colour for a variety of red lipsticks that you can place on top. 

In London, Roksanda Ilincic created an adaptation to the timeless red lipstick look. The lips on her model had a more burgundy base to them creating a modern spin on this timeless classic. Her lips were moodier and mature, perfect for a variety of settings that you may need to pop out a dramatic lip look. For this look, they used products from Isamaya Beauty so we recommend using the suede lip liner in shade outlaw to line your lips for this look alongside the NYX Professional Makeup Shout Loud Hydrating Satin in shade Opinionated. 

£ 26

NARS Audacious Lipstick Rita

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£ 4

NYX Suede Matte Liner Spicy

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£ 8

NYX Shout Loud Hydrating Satin Lipstick – Opinionated

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Natural and Dewy

One theme that we saw across all three shows was the natural, dewy makeup look that sees minimal-to-no base makeup and a simple lip tint which allows natural features to shine through effortlessly. The key to this look is having a good skincare routine pattern down so that your skin looks hydrated and flawless.

In New York, Michael Kors and Proenza Schouler rocked very natural makeup looks with very minimal makeup on the models. When recreating natural makeup looks, we recommend using a trusted moisturiser, hyaluronic acid as a serum, a vitamin c serum and either a lip tint or lip balm on the lips. You’re going to want a very hydrating skincare routine so that your skin looks healthy and plump. We recommend using the Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Cream as this two-in-one formula will give moisture to your face as well as have the same activities that a serum would encourage. Therefore, using this product will allow you to add vitamin C to your routine which will help brighten your skin’s complexion. Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster Vitamin C serum contains 15% of vitamin C which will give your skin a brighter and younger complexion. 

Swapping your lipstick or lip gloss for a skin tint or lip balm will keep your lips looking natural but the dash of colour will make your face look alive. The Benefit Benetint Rose-Tinted Lip and Cheeks Lip Tint is that a beautiful lip tint would be ideal if you’re wanting to keep a natural chic makeup look that appears effortless.

In London and Milan, similar looks were followed with designers such as Nensi Dojka, Ahluwalia and Blumarine all rocking very natural makeup looks. Their model’s skin was well moisturised and therefore appeared shiny and, in some places, highlighted thanks to the well-equipped skincare routine. To achieve that super glossy finish that we saw in London and Milan we recommend using the Glossier Futuredew Serum Hybrid or the Bobbi Brown Extra Illuminating Balm, which is a mix of a rich moisturiser and primer.

£ 19

Glow Recipe Plum Plum Hyaluronic Cream

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£ 52

PAULA’S CHOICE C15 SUPER BOOSTER

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£ 15.50

Benefit Bene Tint Rose Tinted Lip & Cheek Stain

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£ 21

Glossier Futuredew

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Alternative Pops of Colour

The final set of beauty looks that we fell in love with at the various fashion weeks was a group of looks that had alternative takes on adding colour to their model’s faces. These are some of the more creative styles that we saw on the runways and ones that would be ideal for party events or festivals in the spring and summer. 

In London, Chet Lo had a pop of colour on her model faces in the middle of their eyebrows and on the sides of their eyes that resembled an explosion of colour. Pink, green and purple were spotted, and it helped make the looks appear fun and quirky on the runway. The Beauty Bay Bright Matte 42 colour palette is an amazing palette that has extremely pigmented colours in a variety of shades and would be perfect for an explosion of colour on your face like the one seen on the Chet Lo runway.

In Milan, Prada blew us away with the alternative-coloured lashes they styled in a variety of shades, which brought an added spice to the model’s makeup looks which were very natural apart from their lashes. 

When recreating this look, using coloured mascara is your best bet. Barry M does a lovely purple mascara, Revolution does a volumized blue mascara and Dior does a captivating red. Colourful lashes are a fun and unique way to dress up any makeup look and make it seem super creative. If you are not sold on the coloured mascara, but you’re still after a product that can give you the looks seen on the Prada runway, why not try coloured false lashes instead? You can get individual lashes or sets of lashes to wear with a variety of colours. You can also use individual-coloured lashes mixed in with the black lash set for that dash of colour that you desire.

£ 25

Beauty Bay Bright Matte 42 Colour Palette

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£ 5

Barry M Rebel Lash Coloured Mascara – Purple

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£ 31

DIORSHOW Iconic Overcurl – Brique

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£ 7.99

Eylure 117 Pride Inspired Lash

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^{Words by: Sophia-fai Roche}

^{Header Image: Thom Browne}

The post From New York, London to Milan; The major beauty moments caught on the runway are a must-see! appeared first on Voir Fashion.

LFW hosted 47 catwalk shows and 127 brands over the 5-day event, and so there was a lot of fashion to consume this past week. But don’t you worry, we’ve done all the leg work for you and put our favourite collections in this one convenient article for you. So just keep reading to see everything you need to from this London Fashion Week. 

Sinéad O’Dwyer

Sinéad O’Dwyer is putting the rest of the fashion industry to shame. Her inclusive fashion shows prove how easy it is to diversity the catwalk, showing us that if brands wanted to, they would. O’Dwyer champions designing clothes for everyone, and when you design for everyone, they are modelled by everyone, proving that other brands are simply not pulling their weight in terms of inclusivity. For Sinéad O’Dwyer diversifying her casting call is not a publicity stunt or a way to gain brownie-points among Gen-Z, it is simply fulfilling the purpose of a catwalk; demonstrating how the clothes will be worn to a consumer. This attitude to diversity may seem like a no-brainer, of course you would model clothes on a variety of bodies because there is no one type of body that will be wearing them, but unfortunately in the fashion industry this outlook is a breath of fresh air. Designers like Sinéad O’Dwyer are restoring our faith in the fashion industry and our next generation of designers who will hopefully champion inclusivity in an attempt to undo the damaging exclusion that has occurred across the history of fashion. 

The collection was a tribute to Sinéad’s late grandmother, Rita O’Dwyer, titled Dúil, an Irish word meaning ‘desire’. The collection featured looks inspired from the 1940s cinematic glamour that her grandmother loved including the array of vintage-inspired halter neck gowns that took to the runway.  

The collection came with Sinéad’s signature stretched knits; a technique that has become a distinct style associated with her brand. We saw the cobweb-style knitwork across dresses and bodysuits, to leggings and vests, demonstrating the versatility of both the technique and Sinéad’s designs.  

_{Photo Credits: Sinéad O’Dwyer}

Di Petsa 

Di Petsa’s AW23 show was inspired by Dimitra Petsa’s Greek heritage. Greek mythology, particularly the story of Persephone, was central to the collection. Persephone, daughter of Demeter and Zeus, was abducted by Hades and became queen of the underworld. The catwalk acted as a representation of Persephone’s journey to the underworld while Dimitra narrated the voyage from the centre of the catwalk.  

The collection was inspired by the iconography associated with Greek goddesses through the flowy silhouettes and delicately draped gowns, but perhaps the most prominent exploration of Persephone’s story was through the theme of fertility. Not only were maternity looks worn by pregnant models across the runway, but there were designs that mimicked the pregnant body throughout the collection. Whether these designs were padded belts that were ripped off mid-walk or rigid, protruding structures built into the looks, this collection celebrated the pregnant body. 

_{Photo Credits: Di Petsa}

Sinead Gorey

Sinead Gorey saw Cowboy-core and took it clubbing. The cool-girl brand that has taken over London’s nightlife is now taking over London Fashion Week with their debut solo show. But this was not the only debut that Sinead Gorey had in store for us this LFW, the collection also presented their first boot collaboration with Kickers, which was very on brand for the Wild West theme. 

The collection featured an array of rave-worthy looks spanning from the iconic body-print dresses to lace catsuits. While the collection was expansive and offered a variety of looks for the London clubbing scene, one thing remained consistent throughout the collection: female empowerment. The brand, the collection and the show itself all have this notion at its heart. ‘Sinead’s Saloon’ became a space that symbolised a woman’s right to have fun and take up space. Sinead successfully moved women from being the side-characters of old Western films and placed them centre stage.  

_{Photo Credits: Sinead Gorey}

Ahluwalia

Music influences our everyday lives, from what we think about, how we feel and even to what we wear. The extent to which music influences our fashion choices is a phenomenon that has only increased over time; we personally feel like we deserve a qualification for our ability to recognise a Tyler, The Creator, Taylor Swift or Harry Styles fan with a simple glance at their outfit. In the age of TikTok aesthetics we see a constant linking between style decisions and music as we see a montage of ‘streetwear inspiration’ videos soundtracked to MF DOOM. Similarly, we have seen the ’rockstar girlfriend’ become almost synonymous with Arctic Monkeys fans. It is this relationship that exists between music and style that Ahluwalia explores in their Autumn/Winter 2023 collection ‘Symphony’.  

This collection was influenced by the soundtrack of Priya Ahluwalia’s childhood, predominately 90s hip-hop and Bollywood tracks. These influences are clear in the designs, the purple and red fur coat would fit in perfectly in a Snoop Dog music video, whereas the more casual layered looks could have passed as a Lauryn Hill look. However, the music influences do not end there, Alhuwalia took it one step further and actually had the soundwaves from some of her favourite songs made into prints for the collection. 

_{Photo Credits: Ahluwalia}

Mark Fast

Mark Fast’s designs are far from the jumper or scarf that you may expect from a self-proclaimed knitwear designer. His Autumn/Winter 2023 collection is home to perfect party looks and everything you could want for city nightlife. From neon accents to cut-out LBDs the show had it all.   

The use of both male and female models marked the designer’s first foray into menswear and this collection felt like the perfect place for him to do so. The androgyny of rave-wear is certainly prominent in this collection with many of the looks playing with notions of masculinity and femininity. This created the perfect environment for Mark Fast to step into Menswear as the looks were not necessarily gendered. 

Chet Lo

Chet Lo teased their upcoming collection on Instagram at the start of the month with videos of hands and feet being dipped into luminescent water. They’ve had us excited for weeks since and on Saturday we finally got to see the collection.  

The show got off to a shocking start; from what we know of Chet Lo’s vibrant collections in the past combined with the bioluminescent teaser, it was safe to say that nobody expected an entirely black look to open the show. However, Chet Lo did just that. The show was inspired by the designer’s battle with depression, with the bioluminescent algae that brightens the otherwise pitch-black ocean symbolising Lo finding light in the darkness of this time.  

This journey was visible in the collection, with ink-black looks that featured a vibrant pop of blue or red making up the majority of the show. However, even when exploring such important and serious themes, the designer remained playful. As the models strutted their way down the runway, they turned their heads to the audience and stuck out their tongues to reveal the bright colours that would incriminate even the sneakiest of children. This light-hearted touch reinforced the message that light can be found in the darkness.  

_{Photo Credits: Chet Lo}

Fashion East

Fashion East is Lulu Kennedy’s non-profit “talent incubator” for new designers. This London Fashion Week they presented designs from Michael Stewart’s Standing Ground, Johanna Parv and Karoline Vitto. Each designer had their distinct style, but the show remained impeccably cohesive through shared colour palettes. Standing Ground featured some light blues and greys as well as red tones that were also seen in Johanna Parv’s collection. These reds were then continued all the way into Karoline Vitto’s segment of the show where we also saw some bright pinks that circled back to Michael Stewart’s designs at the beginning of the show. 

Michael Stewart’s designs favoured simplicity, focusing on clean-cut lines and classic silhouettes. These structural designs were carefully and purposefully constructed, every pleat was wisely placed and every corset perfected. These designs offer a gimmick-free look at luxurious womenswear, where designs are thoughtful yet minimalist.  

Johanna Parv’s looks starkly contrasted that of Standing Ground’s presenting a more utilitarian collection that prioritised practicality in womenswear, a cause that has often been neglected. Inspired by women commuters the collection seeks to combat the image of women who are hectic, frazzled and struggling with their bags. The athleisure appropriate looks combine chic designs with practicality, a genre of dress that has traditionally been monopolised by men; Parv is opening this world up to women everywhere. Johanna has since been named one of the semi-finalists for the coveted LVMHPrize for her practical yet luxurious designs. 

Karoline Vitto also used her collection to empower women, focusing on championing the folds and curves that make up women’s bodies. A design choice that was particularly compelling was the integration of metal into the looks. As we know, silver is the thing in fashion right now, but we have mainly been seeing it used as a colour, rather than a metal. Vitto, however, used bent silver as a structural element in her looks. It held skirts together, constructed necklines and filled in gaps or slits, bringing a whole new, and well appreciated, perspective on the silver trend.  

_{Photo Credits: Fashion East}

Nensi Dojaka

Nensi Dojaka is famous for her ‘naked dresses’ and has a long list of celebrity fans including Emily Ratajkowski, Bella Hadid, Zendaya and Rihanna. This collection was full of the usual dainty tulle and sheer looks that we know and love from the designer. However, for Autumn/Winter 2023 Dojaka utilised some heavier materials such as velvet. Despite the more substantial material, these designs were not without their usual lingerie inspired details such as exposed bra-cups or lace trims.  

_{Photo Credits: Nensi Dojaka}

Julien Macdonald

Julien Macdonald just made his return to the runway after almost four years. Macdonald rose to fashion stardom in the 1990s; changing the way that we look at knitwear with his ‘cobweb’ designs. Working everywhere from Chanel to Givenchy, it is safe to say that he has been severely missed in recent years; and he certainly came back with a bang. 

Macdonald has been known to dress the biggest names in show-business including Beyoncé and Jennifer Lopez, and we all remember Paris Hilton’s 21^st birthday dress that was designed by no other than Julien. With knowledge of Macdonald’s clientele, it was no surprise that this collection was filled with glamorous looks fit for the stars. The collection ranged from bodysuits made for a popstar, sparkling gowns and even dresses that seemed reminiscent of Paris Hilton’s iconic 21^st birthday look. It safe to say that the star-studded audience made a lot of sense at this show. 

16Arlington

16Arlington’s Autumn/Winter 2023 collection ’Wake’ took on a double meaning. While the floor of the venue was dusted with coffee grounds and the teaser posted on Instagram ahead of the show was a short clip of a pupil dilating, the ritual of waking up was not the only theme of the collection. Following the passing of 16Arlington’s co-founder and Marco Capaldo’s romantic partner Kikka Cavenati in 2021, the term ‘Wake’ takes on a whole new meaning.  

Capaldo was inspired by witchcraft when designing this collection, recognising both the powerful imagery associated with the image of witches but also the historic prejudice that women have experienced. This influence was evident throughout the collection which played with light and dark, sparkling sequins and delicate lace, flowing dresses and structured suits. The looks explored the push and pull of the power yet vulnerability of femininity. 

The collection also marked 16Arlington’s debut in Menswear. The structured suits, lace-up knits and fur coats held their own next to the Women’s dazzling gowns, which is an impressive feat. The impeccable tailoring served as the perfect transitional pieces, trousers could be taken from day to night and from smart to casual with something as simple as the addition of a blazer or swapping a jumper for a sparkly top. 

_{Photo Credits: 16Arlington}

Yuhan Wang

With a title like ‘The Women Who Came Back’ there was no way to not be excited about Yuhan Wang’s latest collection. The show celebrated female resilience and was heavily inspired by the Quentin Tarantino film Kill Bill. In the spirit of this the collection celebrated femininity with just a hint of danger, balancing the delicate with the deadly as she paired ribbons and bows with katana swords.  

The hyper-feminine dresses were slashed and cut as if the model had just stepped out of a brawl, trousers and jackets were tied in knots and lace-up shoes sat just below the knee in a Tomb Raider-esque fashion. These outfits perfectly represented the powerfully feminine and slightly dangerous characters that we have known and loved across cinema for decades; and we can confidently say that they were looks that Beatrix Kiddo would’ve loved.  

_{Photo Credits: Yuhan Wang}

Mowalola

So, we all knew that low-rise jeans were back in fashion, we just didn’t expect them to go that low. Mowalola just debuted their ‘Dark Web’ collection and among a sea of looks all we can think about are those jeans. We are less tempted to call them ‘low rise jeans’ and think they should be technically classified as ‘knee high jeans’ instead. Inspired by New York streetstyle, Mowalola took the skater/hip-hop look of low-hanging baggy jeans to the extreme by having their trousers sit just above the knee. While maybe somewhat impractical, the same could be said about the increasing trend of not wearing trousers at all, and we are loving that at the moment, and so with that in mind I think this is a genius step in re-invigorating denim for a ‘pant-less’ generation.  

However, the collection was so much more than just one style of jeans; inspired by an apocalyptic society where technology is rampant, the show fed into the latest tend of ‘dystopian dressing’. These are the designs that Mowalola Ogunlesi imagines us wearing when we are fighting our last battle against the ever-expanding world of tech.  

_{Photo Credits: Mowalola}

DILARA

Dilara Findikoglu is a designer of Turkish heritage. In light of the recent earthquake that has had disastrous consequences in Tukey and Syria, Dilara used her Fashion Week spotlight to platform the disaster and urge the public to make donations to relief campaigns. But this was not the only way that Dilara used her voice this London Fashion Week, the collection titled ‘Not a Man’s Territory’ had feminism at its core.  

Each look contributed to the story of women reclaiming their lives, bodies and fashion choices in a world that has been dominated and dictated by men. Inspired by the protests that followed the death of Mahsa Amini in Iran last November, the collection fights back against the treatment of women’s bodies as location for discourse; why should a woman’s decision on what to do with or put on her body be open to discussion? The answer is simple, it shouldn’t.  

_{Photo credits: DILARA}

^{Words by: Amelia Gregory}

^{Header Image: British Fashion Council}

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