London Fashion Week officially wrapped up this week, closing another season defined by bold casting, emotional storytelling and a renewed focus on craftsmanship. As the final guests departed show venues on Monday evening, the energy across the capital felt clear — AW26 marked a turning point for British fashion.

Over five days, London transformed into a moving runway. Editors rushed between venues, street style photographers crowded entrances, and designers delivered collections that reflected both the realities of modern dressing and fashion’s enduring need for spectacle.

From Burberry’s star-powered finale to Simone Rocha’s redefining of femininity, here’s what stood out from the shows that shaped London Fashion Week AW26.

Burberry Closed the Week

Closing the schedule, Burberry delivered one of the week’s most talked-about moments. Outside the venue, crowds gathered hours before showtime, signalling the anticipation surrounding Daniel Lee’s latest vision for the British house.

This season shifted Burberry firmly into city territory. Oversized trench coats, textured shearling and deep-toned leather outerwear reflected London after dark — practical yet unmistakably polished.

Midway through the show, attention turned as Romeo Beckham appeared on the runway, reinforcing the brand’s connection to contemporary British culture. Later, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley brought cinematic glamour, her walk drawing audible reactions from the audience.

The collection felt confident, grounded and unmistakably London.

Simone Rocha Redefined Modern Femininity

Simone Rocha presented one of the most emotionally resonant shows of the week. Her continued exploration of softness collided with athletic practicality, as delicate tulles and pearl embellishments met sportswear silhouettes.

Layered tutus worn over track trousers captured the mood perfectly — romance adapted for movement and reality. Rocha’s AW26 woman felt protected rather than fragile, signalling a broader shift seen across London’s runways.

Erdem Marked Twenty Years of Design
Celebrating two decades of the brand, Erdem’s collection reflected on past muses while pushing forward. The atmosphere inside the show carried a quiet reverence as layered textiles, floral embroidery and historical silhouettes moved down the runway.

Rather than nostalgia, the collection functioned as evolution — demonstrating how heritage can continuously reshape itself within contemporary fashion.

Richard Quinn Delivered Pure Runway Theatre

Richard Quinn once again embraced spectacle. Voluminous gowns, high-impact florals and sculptural eveningwear transformed the runway into couture fantasy.

In a season dominated by practicality, Quinn’s commitment to glamour felt intentional — reminding audiences that fashion still thrives on drama and escapism.

Conner Ives Brought Intimacy to the Schedule

Presented at Claridge’s, Conner Ives’ show stood in contrast to larger productions. Guests sat close enough to observe reconstructed fabrics and hand-finished details, reinforcing the designer’s commitment to sustainability through storytelling.

Upcycled textiles were elevated into refined eveningwear, proving conscious design continues to shape London’s creative identity.

Patrick McDowell Championing Responsible Luxury

Patrick McDowell’s presentation highlighted craftsmanship and collaboration. Structured tailoring merged with repurposed materials, positioning sustainability not as limitation but innovation.

The atmosphere reflected London’s growing emphasis on community-led fashion practices.

Di Petsa Celebrated the Body

Di Petsa closed her presentation with signature wet-look draping that moved like liquid across the body. The collection explored sensuality through empowerment, celebrating natural form and emotional vulnerability.

After London Fashion Week

Now that London Fashion Week AW26 has wrapped up, the season leaves behind a clear message: British fashion is entering a period of confidence and reflection. Designers balanced heritage with experimentation, proving London remains the industry’s most fearless creative platform.

As the show spaces empty and the city returns to normal pace, the influence of this week’s collections is only just beginning.

Words by Jyoti Matoo

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This year marks the culmination of LFW’s 40th-anniversary celebrations, and to commemorate the milestone, the BFC will host a series of exciting activations and events that highlight the global impact of LFW and showcase the creativity of the fashion community. 

LFW40 Celebrations & 180 The Strand Highlights 

This year’s edition celebrates LFW’s 40th anniversary with a series of unique events at 180 The Strand. Key highlights include: 

• LFW40 Retrospective & ‘Le Journal Bleu’: At 180 The Strand, a retrospective will be curated by Sarah Mower MBE, Chief Critic at Vogue Runway, and Robin Derrick, Creative Director. Visitors will journey through LFW’s rich history, from its beginnings at Olympia to the present day. To commemorate the anniversary, the BFC has partnered with 1664 Blanc to produce Le Journal Bleu, a limited-edition takeaway newspaper featuring designer interviews, memorable shows, iconic looks, and more. 
• LFW40 Bookstore: The BFC will showcase over 150 rare and unique books focusing on fashion, culture, and creativity. Curated by Reference Point & Record28, the bookstore highlights the resilience of the fashion industry over the decades, emphasizing its ability to adapt to shifting political landscapes. 
• alo OASIS at 180 The Strand: As the official Wellness Partner of LFW, alo invites attendees to its wellness hub at 180 Health Club, where guests can participate in daily yoga classes, cryotherapy, soundbaths, and meditation sessions. 
• TONI&GUY at 180 The Strand: The Official Hair Care Partner of LFW, TONI&GUY will host a salon station offering attendees styling advice, touch-ups, and expert hair care tips. 
• LFW40 10 Downing Street Event: The Prime Minister will host a 10 Downing Street reception for the LFW40 celebrations. This prestigious event will bring together the BFC, key figures from the fashion industry, and government officials, providing a platform to introduce industry priorities and foster new opportunities within British fashion. 
• LFW40 Icons Party: In collaboration with Burberry and 1664 Blanc, the BFC will host an unforgettable Icons Party to close the week, featuring legendary designers, industry titans, and influential figures from the past, present, and future. Burberry will curate the 

• -night-only appearance. 

Schedule & Designer Highlights 

With 72 designers and 48 catwalk shows on the schedule, this season promises to be one of the most exciting yet. Key moments include: 

• S.S. DALEY & On x FKA twigs: Making their runway debut. 
• LABRUM London: Now rescheduled to Monday, September 16th, at 14:30. 
• BFC NEWGEN Designers: Charlie Constantinou, Karoline Vitto, and more are set to make their runway debuts. 
• Hu Bing Celebrates 10 Years: The BFC Ambassador for China, Hu Bing, will present “Hu Bing Selects,” showcasing emerging Chinese designers like CONSISTENCE. 

• DiscoveryLAB: Featuring five up-and-coming designers: Francesca Lake, Kinks Lab, Nicole Zisman, Nina Doroushi, and OIZA. 

Citywide Celebrations 

For the first time, LFW’s City Wide Celebration will extend beyond London to Manchester and Newcastle, offering over 1,000 unique experiences and activities across multiple cities. Some highlights include: 

• 1664 Blanc ‘Explorations in Blue’ at Covent Garden: Guests can enjoy limited-edition prints from BFC NEWGEN designer Tolu Coker while sipping a refreshing 1664 Blanc and capturing moments with a professional photographer. 

• 0181 Studios x DJ Workshops: A creative hub for DJs, musicians, and designers, founded by KISS FM’s Dixon Brothers, will offer workshops within the Throwley Yard Cinema. 
• Raeburn Retrospective: Curated by Harris Elliott, the exhibition charts 15 years of the RÆBURN brand’s impact on fashion. 
• London Creates Music x LFW: In partnership with City Hall, Music Venue Trust, and Rough Trade, this initiative celebrates the relationship between grassroots fashion and music, offering a series of low-cost gigs across London. 
• London Mural Festival: Returning this September, the festival will showcase over 100 murals by renowned street artists, appearing in neighbourhoods across London from Brixton to Walthamstow. 

A Fashion Celebration Like No Other 

LFW40 is set to be one of the most memorable celebrations of fashion, culture, and creativity yet. With an expanded digital presence and citywide celebrations for all to enjoy, this year’s London Fashion Week is an event not to be missed. For more, explore the official schedule on the LFW Digital Hub 

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Poster Girl

With clothing featuring Barbie approved pink hues, heart-shaped cutouts, and a myriad of fun colours and textiles, Francesca Capper and Natasha Somerville brought a debut runway show that was straight from a 2000s chick flick.

The label played on current trends like the micro mini skirt while cultivating joyful accessories perfect for the winter like oversized ski boots and fur neck covers. While it was the label’s first-ever catwalk show, the collection was far from novice and it’s no surprise since the London taught designers have been leading the way in celebrity style after dressing big names like Kylie Jenner and Maya Jama. The brand combined street-style inspired garments with couture contoured silhouettes to present a collection that was both playful and stylish; perfectly emulating the energy of the modern woman’s wardrobe.

Mark Fast

Tassels, tight-fitting silhouettes, and traditional trench coats encapsulated the aspirational and uninhibited energy of Mark Fast’s clothing. Fast sought up a collection that brought energy and life to everyday wear; matching the brand’s ethos of cultivating exciting pieces that simultaneously provide comfort and luxury.

While most of his pieces featured in nude tones of taupe and peach, Fast brought them to life with unconventional designs and tight-fitting styles. The Central Saint Martins graduate also drew inspiration from the Y2K punk rock scene, as models wore spiky hairstyles and dark smoky eye-looks to match their skin-tight clothing.

Jack Irving

Looking underwater for inspiration; Jack Irving’s London show was like nothing seen before. Inflatable purple tentacles, plexiglass corsets, and metallic bralettes were just some of the sea life-inspired garments that Irving sent down the runway. The pieces were brought to life through the raging electronic music and the enthusiasm of the diverse cohort of models who broke free from the inflatable wear to showcase the metal underwear that hid beneath.

When speaking about the show, the Blackpool-born designer, said he ‘sees the underwater goddess alien, a woman that is incredibly powerful’, demonstrating Jack’s allegiance to women and his ability to showcase the divine energy of femininity through his weird and wonderful designs.

Women weren’t the only ones Irving’s AW22 collection paid homage to, however, as the tight-fitting corsets and solid materials used were resemblant of late fashion designer Thierry Mugler’s work.

Saul Nash

Urban sportswear met high fashion at Saul Nash’s AW22 show, named ‘RITUAL’. The 29-year-old designer celebrated movement, London- inspired style, and individuality through his fluid menswear. Models danced and walked the runway in colourful garments, some were inventively coloured with a blended mesh of the hues from the Guyana flag, to celebrate the designer’s Guyanese heritage.

In true London style, the video promo for the show saw models dancing in downtown barber shops, adorned with colourful sportswear, which was impressively made with sustainable, Primaloft material. The unsuspecting setting was chosen based on the collection’s message of community and togetherness- and what better place to celebrate this community spirit than urban London?

Matty Bovan

On the day of one of the worst storms in the history of the country, Matty Bovan stepped into LFW with his rather aptly titled collection Cyclone. Serving as an homage to America, the collection was wild and exuberant featuring chaotic energy that has come to be a great staple of Bovan’s work. The rebellion was another strong theme present, noted by the vast array of loud, chaotic prints adorned across tattered coats and dramatically oversized capes, huge shoulder pads which call back to the classic rebellious movements of the past such as punk, and messaging that leaves us with a sense of hope for the future.

These looks aren’t generally the kind suited to everyday use heading to the shops, but they make bold, powerful statements and epitomize the kind of creativity and attitude that the fashion industry is all about.

Conner Ives

New York-born designer Conner Ives made his catwalk debut on Day 1 and, oh my, what a debut it was. Ives has garnered a reputation for his more sustainable approach to designer fashion by consistently reworking and restyling vintage clothes in an effort to give them new and prolonged life. This much was evident in his debut as a number of iconic Y2K staples were present throughout the show, not least with the abundance of plastic gemstones and loose, low-rise jeans.

The show carried a casual, yet still graceful, aura with a lot of attitude to boot. This seamless blend of casual elegance and refined edge gave the show lashings of personality which truly made it stand apart from the other shows present. Eras from the aforementioned Y2K through to 70s vintage were combined creating a glorious melting pot of looks that were both extremely familiar yet wondrously fresh at the same time.

Bora Aksu

Speaking of different eras and vintage clothing Bora Aksu took LFW all the way back to the 14^th Century for his collection. Can you really get more vintage than that? Set in the 19^th Century church in Pimlico, Bora Aksu’s collection served as a tribute to the Italian poet, writer and historian Christine de Pizan whose works have come to be regarded as some of the world’s earliest feminist writings. This is, of course, all evident in the clothes as the collection which was led by some gloriously Victorian-era dresses adorned with huge, puffy sleeves, neckties and ribbons, and plenty of lace material.

The show didn’t purely focus on the Victorian though as it also combined a number of 90s grunge elements too. Speaking to Vogue Runway, Bora Aksu said “We wanted to take Christine and bring her into the 1990s” continuing “We took that early Renaissance look and toughened it up a bit.” A glorious time warp of a collection!

Edward Crutchley

Heralded as exploring the intersection between the Gothic and the queer Edward Crutchley’s extravaganza kept its promise and delivered a fabulously dark and dramatic spectacle. Whilst there were only 21 looks on show, with some even having digital variants ready to go, each one was dripping with the 80s tinged personality with a combination of gothic, more subdued monochromatic pieces starring alongside exuberant gowns and jumpsuits in a stunning array of luscious pinks, purples, and blues.

Taking inspiration from an eclectic mix of Rick Owens, Giorgio Armani, and Romeo Gigli the collection was also not afraid of being sensual with some looks featuring more skin than actual clothing but done so tastefully and incredibly playfully. Combine all of this with a collection of accessories with just the right balance of subtle and extravagant, such as ludicrously long pink nails and shimmering tiaras, and you have a collection bold, beautiful and boundary-breaking. Strike a pose!

Words by

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As audiences have already gathered, the digital landscape has offered designers the chance to branch out into more conceptual modes of storytelling when it comes to the presentation of collections. Virtual reality, 360-degree interactive videos, and short films provide an exciting audience experience that rivals the standard in-person show.

With London’s shows now wrapping up, we’d like to look through some of the highlights from the past few days. From APUJAN’s dreamscape storytelling to Edeline Lee’s Gothic showcase, the looks on show do not disappoint.

MONDAY

Mithridate

During the pandemic, Guangzhou-based designer Demon Lee decided to use her experience of isolation as an opportunity to explore the inner self through creative media. The resulting collection, ‘Automatiste’, builds on these themes of self-reflection and uncertainty while incorporating Mithridate’s signature approach to fashion as a multi-sensory artform. The collection has a central focus on tailored silhouettes and glittering accents, including jewels, beads, and metallic threads. Transitioning from black and red, to brown, and finally to grey and white, the collection also exhibits a muted colour palette that accentuates the structure of the clothes and their detailing. A clever approach to the ongoing trend of floral patterning was the isolation of natural forms in metallic beading, creating thorns and flowers in red, silver, and gold. Key features of ‘Automatiste’ include shoulder pads, suit tailoring, leather accents, and oversized coats.

OSMAN

Osman Yousefzada aims to bring together the former East Indies and West Indies in his AW21 Collection, highlighting social values such as community and environment to enable meaningful connections. These themes saturate much of Yousefzada’s work, influencing his use of organic and Last Yards fabrics. Warm tones, including reds, pinks, purples, and golds, dominate the visual landscape of the OSMAN collection and its accompanying video. Focusing on the creation of dramatic silhouettes and colourful patterns, the collection in particular highlights the use of puffed sleeves and shoulder pads. Oversized accessories such as chandelier earrings, chunky necklaces, and gold headbands accentuate the sophisticated extravagance of the collection. The use of colourful patches, large circular sequins, and abstract patterns rounded out the collection with a fun aesthetic that paralleled an optimism for the coming year.

Emilia Wickstead

Characterised by timeless clothing that embodies modern femininity, the Emilia Wickstead brand intertwines classic lines and shapes with modern trends. Cut-outs in particular appear to be a staple of the collection, with open backs and sides giving each look a contemporary edge. Another noticeable feature which Wickstead often refers back to is the use of coordinated sets, in particular maxi skirt and cropped shirts. Slit skirts are also prominent within the collection, although Wickstead moves beyond the traditional side-split to incorporate a full pleat of slits that extend the skirt’s length. Outerwear is dominated by full-length coats with large collars and pocket details, as well as textured patterns like tartan. The colour palette is minimal in its use of monochrome but does incorporate splashes of gold, purple, red, and blue throughout the collection.

ROKSANDA

A collection centring around female perspective and celebration, ROKSANDA’s AW21 Collection uses its accompanying short film to highlight “a series of tender and fleeting moments” between three generations of women in the same family. Set against the countryside in which these women lived during lockdown, the collection plays on the parallels between colour, fluidity, and form that lie between home and the natural world. As such, the colour palette of the collection incorporates colours with feminine associations, including pinks, lilacs, and yellows. Silky fabrics are used to highlight the flow of movement and light on natural curves, and shapes on the upper part of the body are exaggerated; shoulders are padded out, sleeves puffed, and collars ruffled. A key component of the collection is the attention paid to the female form, which is incorporated in the patterns used in some of the fabrics – look out for the larger-than-life purple dress covered in women’s faces.

Edeline Lee

Edeline Lee is known for creating collections with “the Future Lady” in mind, examining transformations in female identity. The AW21 Collection presents a short story, ‘Memory of a Dress’, in which the intimacies of how meanings and memories attached to clothing are explored. Edeline Lee commented in the video description: “I wanted to contemplate how memory and nostalgia can be held by a piece of clothing…how the soul of a dress can inherently give the wearer a sense of stability, confidence, and power.” The collection is based on a minimal colour palette of malachite, mustard, brown, white, and black. A romanticism flows through the collection, as expressed by the incorporation of full-length skirts and flowing balloon sleeves. However, these are also blended with current trends such as capes, cut outs, and shoulder pads. Relaxed fits and layering are also a defining feature of the collection, in particular wide leg trousers, joggers, and loose shirts.

Natasha Zinko x DUO ltd

Natasha Zinko x DUOltd continue to push for gender fluidity in their collections, with the focus on “girls wearing boys and boys wearing girls” remaining unchanged in their AW21

offerings. Gothic visuals permeate the entire collection, which sits itself comfortably on the line between costume and high-end couture. Lace in particular is used generously, accenting necklines and aprons, and used to create sheer dresses. A notable feature is the use of an exaggerated peter pan collar, where frills give a feminine edge to more masculine fits. Flared jeans and trousers are also highlighted and decked out in an array of patterns (including sheep). Layering is crucial to some of the more complex looks in terms of their exploration of gendered shapes; hoodies and oversized shorts are nearly dwarfed by layers of jackets and coats.

TUESDAY

APUJAN

APUJAN’s AW21 Collection has an emphasis on story-telling that combines mystery, science fiction, and fantasy. The video presentation follows an insomniac detective who is able to travel through dreams and is put on the case of finding out why several young women are unable to wake up. The space in which the detective travels through is a simulation of the brand’s fashion show. APUJAN stay true to their signature style with the inclusion of traditional and oriental elements, such as the cheongsam-style dress, although these are combined with global contemporary trends. Cut outs featured prominently in the collection, creating rows of neat, open squares that left the remaining material to create a blocky check pattern. As with previous APUJAN collections, this one also used knit techniques to give the collection a greater textural dimension; skirts, crop tops, and hats could be seen in coral and reddish-brown knits. Pattern, in particular variations of stripes, were also spotlighted as a means of introducing more intense colours into the monochromatic palette.

Accidental Cutting

For their new collection, Accidental Cutting present ‘KONSUM aw 21/22 Apocalypse the New Reality II’, an exploration into the possibilities of virtual reality following the economic catastrophes caused by the Coronavirus pandemic. Seeking to answer questions about the future of fashion and its means of adapting to current lifestyles, the collection blends athleisure staples with more event-ready items; dramatic, full-length skirts are seen alongside hoodies, jogging bottoms, and other outdoor sportswear. Long sleeves remain consistent among all the looks on show, with arm warmers also being layered on top of select outfits. Full-length coats are also prominent, often emphasising the structure of the shoulder with shoulder pads and cutouts on the upper arm. A ribbon or sash with the Accidental Cutting logo is a detail that features consistently throughout the collection.

Susan Fang

‘AIR-TIME’ is an exploration of the subjective experience of time. Considering the past year, Susan Fang looked back at feelings of uncertainty and the anxieties we faced over not having  

control of our own time. When making her collection, Fang wanted to create a short film using an 1850 wet processing film technique that highlighted the process from start to finish, creating a layered story that mixed individual moments in time. The collection incorporates Fang’s signature bubble pieces, which she combines with fountain headpieces to create the impression of water splashes frozen in mid-air. Emphasising a look of soft airiness, the collection shifts between a light, pastel-hued colour palette and jewel tones. Additionally, tulle and ribbon are highlighted as key components, layered into flowing dresses that channel loose shapes and accentuate soft movements.

JENN LEE

JENN LEE presents ‘Love Planet’, which takes audiences to another world via a 360-degree virtual reality viewing experience. The collection features different character types, such as the ‘Explorer’, ‘Girl Raver’, and ‘Superstar’, in a colourfully experimental digital space. One of the more interactive shows of London Fashion Week, JENN LEE invites their audience to move around the space provided to view each look. Sporting a vibrant colour palette of lime green, orange, red, blue, and black, the collection is striking in its use of luminescent colour. Denim features heavily in many of the looks, styled with metal eyelets arranged in flowing bubble-like patterns. Zip detailing is also used on trousers, skirts, and jumpsuits to introduce line and structure, as well as emphasise flared shapes. Psychedelic patterns and asymmetrical hemlines give many of the looks a retro finish, with chunky platform trainers, boots, and shoes emphasising this aesthetic.

Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha’s AW21 Collection brings together themes of delicate femininity and practical strength, working on the image of the “fragile rebel”. The winter rose, noted for its ability to maintain its beauty while withstanding hostile conditions, is a central symbol running through the collection. Structured leather is intertwined with Rocha’s usual play on satin and tulle, with leather jackets, harnesses, and bralettes emphasising the unification of delicate textures and strong shapes. This highlights the collection’s emphasis of tailoring through its presentation of leather jackets and blazers. Sheer fabrics are also particularly prominent, used to create puffed sleeves or layered into full, doll-like skirts. The silky, see-through fabric is also used to construct trousers, which are layered under skirts like loose-fitting tights. Floral embroidering and beadwork are highlighted throughout the collection, incorporated into skirt hems and shirt collars. Another feature of note is the use of mixed patterns, which Rocha incorporates through layered patchwork and texture.

Daniel w. Fletcher

Debuting his first womenswear collection, Daniel w. Fletcher presents ‘Love Is A Stranger’. Rather than stick to the label of womenswear, Fletcher wanted to continue the narrative and styling of his current collections in a way that was also inclusive of the female body shape.

Using his menswear collections as a starting point, the AW21 Collection brings Fletcher’s signature tailoring, military decorations, and check print to the forefront. The collection also emphasises the outlining of seams and details in contrasting coloured thread, decorating jackets, coats, and trousers. The familiar structured suit, turtleneck, and collared shirt make an appearance, but so do the pleated skirt and backless dress, making the collection fluid in its presentation of women’s clothing. The layering of a cream pleated skirt over trousers in particular played on this narrative.

ERDEM

For their FW21 Collection, ERDEM locate the audience in the stage wings of a ballet performance. Taking inspiration from a collaboration with The Royal Ballet in 2018 and the career of ballet dancer Margot Fonteyn, ERDEM explores clothing worn by dancers off-stage and on-stage in an examination of the transition between performance and rest. The colour palette used consists of reds, pinks, black, and ecru. Costume elements such as feathers and beaded embroidery are highlighted alongside tulle underskirts and puff sleeves, creating dramatic silhouettes that reflect the glamour of performance. The collection also highlights full-length coats and tailored suits that open at the bottom to show a skirt, highlighting the narrative of the ballet mistress “rushing elsewhere at the end of the performance with no time to change.” A notable feature in ERDEM’s collection is the use of pleats, seen in skirts, dresses, and on the back of coats, which again relate to the contemporary styles of the period Fonteyn danced in during the mid-twentieth century.

Words By Charlie Colville, Graphics By Victoria Zhao

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