Today, in memoriam of the great Issey Miyake, we look back at his life and legacy; the beauty and joy he bought to so many around him.

Issey Miyake 1994

In 1993, Issey Miyake released his iconic line ‘Pleats Please’. One of his most innovative moments, this line was created with a patented process by the name of ‘garment pleating’ wherein the clothes were pleated instead of the textiles. This allowed for fun, origami-like designs that allowed and even encouraged movement. The above photo shot by Irving Penn for Miyake’s 1994 spring/summer collection shows this vivacious and fluid spirit.

Grace Jones

Sometime in the 70s, when Japanese fashion designers were having a heyday, Club kid Grace jones and Issey Miyake met and thus was born a prolific, artistic relationship. She became his muse, regularly sporting his visionary designs and walking in shows for him such as ‘12 Black Women’ in 1976. She credits him with boosting her career and introducing her to kabuki stances, allowing her to exude power with little movement – the quintessential Jones look.

Steve Jobs

Not many people might know this, but the man behind Steve Jobs’ iconic black turtleneck is actually Miyake. Jobs and Miyake were close friends and Miyake created ‘hundreds’ of sets of the top for him, officially retiring them in 2011 when he passed. Here, pictured in Palo Alto in 2005, Steve Job’s wearing his classic mock black turtleneck, Levis and New balance kicks, something he wore almost religiously.

Issey Miyake 1999

The above piece is from the finale of his 1999 spring/summer women’s collection called ‘Le Feu’. APOC, otherwise known as ‘A Piece Of Cloth’, was the simple basis for this piece that went on to be both a complete piece of clothing as well as just fabric. The beauty and boldness behind this look, as well as the level of design that went into it, is archetypal Miyake and shows he goes far beyond the realm of fashion designer and well into the realm of artist and innovator. He himself claimed he was ‘not a fashion designer’.

Mary-Kate Olsen

Miyake’s designs are loved by a wide variety of people and it’s undeniable his designs touched many. Here, we have Mary-Kate Olsen stepping out in a chic Miyake Gown for the 2013 CFDA Awards. This piece really shows the diversity of his capabilities, he could make fun, unorthodox, bright designs and just as well make a classic black gown.

Issey Miyake 2020

Issey Miyake officially retired in 1997, but his designs and brand have continued to be a prolific part of fashion. The above video shows, in classic Miyake style, the beauty and joy he set out to give embodied in free-flowing and geometric pieces. The brain behind the SS20 show was Satoshi Kondo, who embodied Miyake style perfectly, and we look forward to what else the Issey Miyake brand shall henceforth create.

It is certainly a tragic day for fashion; however, Miyake’s legacy has lived on and will continue to do so. In fact, I defy you to find me one east London fashion girly not reeling from the loss in a pleats please skirt today.

Words By Giuliana Zamudio-Lopez

^{Header Image: Issey Miyake}

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From Virgil Abloh’s figures of speech and tags that are apparent in his designs, to the more subtle tailoring of fashion houses like Dior, Givenchy and Azzedine Alaia, sculpture in fashion reveals the more architectural aspect of fashion, reflects symbolism in garments and gives clothes different meanings.

There are instances where fashion goes beyond the department stores and shows, and becomes wearable art and although sculptural fashion isn’t always worn everyday there are some more wearable styles that are appearing in recent fashion season’s today. For example, the sculptural designs of Demna Gvsalia’s Balenciaga.

Masks

A symbol of an anonymity, a known trope of Margiela along with the iconic tabi ‘hoof’ shoe.

Whether it be for protection, entertainment or even religious ritual the mask is just as theatrical as it is used for disguise.

The enigmatic face covering has inspired designers and artists like Alexander McQueen, Raf Simons and Kanye West.

£ 65

ZADIG&VOLTAIRE Graphic-print cotton face covering

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£ 370

AREA crystal-embellished face mask

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£ 120

MARINE SERRE Moon-print recycled-polyamide face covering

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Pleats

_{Photo Credit: Iris Van Herpen}

Issey Miyake launched a line in 1988 that featured pleats. The light, wrinkle proof garments proved versatile for everyday wear while also having movement and creating a beautiful fluidity.

This unique technology and way of making garments that have influenced the like of Christopher Kane, Jil Sander and Loewe to name a few.

Iris Van Herpen’s 2021 collection also featured that pleats that incorporated pleating in a way that resembled the gills of a mushroom.

Light fabrics and pleated designs can be a great addition to the summer wardrobe. Here are some options:

£ 390

Issey Miyake Komo Pleated Woven Top

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£ 532

Issey Miyake Pleated Long Vest

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£ 693

Sacai Pleated Mini Skirt

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£ 525

Valentino Pleated Midi Skirt in Red

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£ 1390

Valentino Pleated Midi Skirt in Purple

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Tags/Logos

Virgil Abloh acknowledges architecture with his designs, even his tags on his shoes are intentional.

His quotation marks on his garments reflect a naivety and irony. With so much logomania in clothing today and the constant advertisement of brand identity, the clothes are a refreshing take on streetwear. From his colorations with Nike, to his tenant at Louis Vuitton, everything Abloh imagines is with functionality – a modern functionality.

£ 350

OFF-WHITE C/O VIRGIL ABLOH Low-top Leather Trainers

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£ 830

OFF-WHITE C/O VIRGIL ABLOH Leather Top Handle Bag

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Oversized Coat

This oversized voluminous look is apparent in Vetement designer Demna Gvsalia’s aesthetics. Gvsalia who spent several years working at the Margiela maison often makes reference to this in his oversized proportions.

£ 3105

MAISON MARGIELA Quilted oversized shell coat

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£ 1750

BALENCIAGA Brand-print high-neck shell hooded raincoat

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Words by Hannah Fenelon

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Emanual Ungaro

Emanual Ungaro’s Spring Summer 2021 collection is the epitome of both a fresh summer afternoon and the brand’s roots in fashion. Indulging in print, each piece speaks to Ungaro’s ‘sensual obsessive’ nature: his obsession with colours and pattern, his daring to be different and his attention to detail. The collection orients around three patterns: a multi-coloured floral, a monochrome floral and a monochrome spot. The effect of this is that in isolation each piece is impactful, demonstrating the ‘clashes of bright colours and prints’ that the Maison prides itself on. In combination, however, the pieces manage to create a simultaneity of energies. Emanual Ungaro’s Spring Summer 2021 collection is an effortless yet intentional fashion statement, embodying both the calm breeze of a summer day and the power of fashion.

Leonard Paris

Titled ‘Silky Wave’, Leonard Paris’ ready to wear Spring Summer 2021 collection is an indulgent romance with colour. Filmed against the ocean, the presentation emits freedom, the wave acting as a metaphor for the power of our soul and our dreams, the strength we all hold within us. This is directly spoken for through the centrality of the orchid throughout the brand and the pieces, a flower “without geometric limits”. With the Hawaiian shirt being each piece’s commonality, there is an optimism which speaks to the collection’s artistic intention: being ‘a true ode to freedom found’. The vibrancy of each pattern, the fine line between harmony and discord, creates an energy which is evidently steeped in the brand’s roots in Chinese art. The richness of colour, combined with the luxe of silk, creates a buoyancy which perfectly embodies the sun-soaked summer days which winter dreams of.

@leonardparis Instagram

Loewe

The Spring 2021 ready-to-wear collection (titled ‘fantasies and realities’) is experimentation, and subsequent manipulation, of the silhouette. Described by Jonathan Anderson, creative director, as ‘a story of dramatic silhouettes exploring the craft of pattern making’, the collection voyages into both clothing and bags, the common thread being an exploration of our past, the new present, and the unpredictable future in relation to the art of fashion. There is an emphasis on detail in Loewe’s ready-to-wear pieces: hand-embroidered, hand-woven and hand-made forming the foundation of each piece. There is a movement to the collection, an accentuation of angles and shapes which is referenced by the house as ‘a sculptural extremization of fashion’. The collaging of material textures with tailoring demonstrates this greatly: the knotting of a highly sequined ball gown manifests as a glamourous ballgown, a relationship both unexpected yet perfect. It is the essence of the unexpected, which Loewe has incorporated so well, also building it into their new bag collection. A re-modelling of their adored classics, the bags have merged history with shape and texture; this is apparent in the Shell Bag, inspired by nineteenth-century clay work.

Loewe SS21 Collection images via Vogue Runway

Issey Miyake

Labeled ‘UNPACK THE COMPACT’, Issey Miyake’s Spring Summer 2021 collection is divided into five different concepts: FORM BODY, TO GO, OUT A PIECE, SPONGY AND TEMPORARY ROOM. Each part of the collection places emphasis on the joy of unpacking, intending to demonstrate the transportability – and thus the universality – of their clothing. This links strongly with the house’s core attitude toward fashion, seeking to demonstrate the relationship between the body and the cloth, the concept, and joy behind ‘a piece of cloth’. ‘Form Body’ sees moulded and minimalistic vests which are dissectable by the sole zip feature; ‘To Go’ uses water repellent material and is focussed on the compactness of its pieces, said to reflect and suit active people; ‘Out A Piece’ again centres around the zip and universality, presenting simultaneously angled and rounded silhouette; ‘Spongy’ is a stretchable compactable knit collection which seamlessly and effortlessly lines the body; ‘Temporary Room’ imitates artwork and painting, the pieces being a collage of fragments from a picture of a living room. The dynamics of Issey Miyake’s Spring Summer 2021 collection create a movement to cloth and fabric which is often overlooked by designers. Consequently, the house has both reinstalled and reinstated the joy of cloth and the power of clothing in relation to our living body.

Issey Miyake SS21 Collection images via Vogue Runway

@isseymiyakeoffical Instagram

Nina Ricci

Nina Ricci’s Spring 2021 ready-to-wear is inspired by their perfume ‘L’Air du Temps: a fragrance created after the second world war and representing ‘hope, optimism, and revival’. This concept is reflected in the fluidity of the collection’s pieces, their use of material being loose fitted and flowing as opposed to their traditional form-fitting and tailored structure. Whilst still true to their feminine, lady-like foundations, there is a playfulness to the collection’s interpretation of Spring fashion. Its incorporation of hats, alongside varying inclusions of colour and pattern, creates a beautiful blend between material and movement. The lack of severity to each piece, the enjoyment in cuts and fabrics, creates a truly gorgeous collection.

NINA RICCI – Spring/Summer 2021

Nina Ricci SS21 Collection images via Vogue Runway

Words by Hannah Emmery

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The biggest Ooh La La moments at Paris Fashion Week

Paris Fashion Week concluded yesterday and it’s safe to say we have been wowed. New York, London and Milan have passed us by and in turn paved way for the ‘City of Lights’ to shine. From jacquard ball-gowns to floating tulle clouds we’re giving the low-down on perhaps the most vibrant quarter of Fashion Week this season.

Noir Kei Ninomiya’s collection was a fan-favourite for the Avant Garde style portrayed within the show. The designers signature aesthetic was clearly established through the use of in-your-face tulle and sculptural botanical headpieces consisting of succulents and leaves. A standout of the collection was undeniably the floating tulle dress which mirrored a passing cloud in frame and form. The theme for this show was ‘Beginnings’ and the pieces served as a metaphor for the broader leitmotif of ‘Creation’ by largely referencing nature.

Ninomiya’s architectural collection pushed the boundaries of Avant Garde that Japanese designers are so known for. The green moss-covered coat evoked images of trees found in a rainforest and the white dress with pearls protruding from thin wires really brought Ninomiya’s vision into full bloom.

Issey Miyake also had heads turning with their SS20 collection, ‘A Sense of Joy’. Performance art replaced a catwalk down the runway and models were dressed by brightly coloured hoops which lowered down in front of the audience. The brands new lead designer, Satoshi Kondo, continued Miyake’s maximalist approach managed to pay homage to female joy – models skid past the audience on skateboards and frolicked on stage showcasing the flamboyant fluidity of the dresses.

Whilst it is common to see exciting pieces down the runways – Noir’s collection irrefutably showcased this – it is rare to see models excited and having fun. The show displayed the quintessential art of fashion and Kondo stated with the collection he wanted to “look into the relationship between the human body and the clothes, and to express the joy of wearing the clothes and of movement” which he definitely pulled off.

Saint Laurent impressed with their highly adorned frocks which irrefutably harked back to the Boho-chic aesthetic we knew all too well in ‘05. Laurent met the mid-2000 fashion trend, however, with elegance and finesse – embellishing slip dresses with paisley sequinned patterns and pairing it with slouchy metallic boots – Mary Kate & Ashley and Sienna Miller would approve.

Glittered embroidery of every colour on black chiffon reminded us of fireworks exploding cross a night sky and the hippie glam theme was continued through the collection with knee high maroon boots, teal suede shorts and glistening fabric bonnets. Though we thought the fashion industry was still recovering from the trends of the 2000’s, it appears certain designers have now recuperated.

Comme de Garçons effortlessly pulled off grandeur and extravagance in their SS20 collection. Luminescent jacquard, Elizabethan hair and 3D flowers graced the runway and demonstrated just how ‘anti-fashion’ the brand can go. CDG’s commitment to deviating from traditional silhouettes was undeniably seen in Look 9 which featured a skirt which jut out on either side of the model’s waist. Highly bejewelled silk gowns featuring glistening gold brocade made it look as though the model walked out of an art nouveau painting and straight onto the catwalk.

Graphics by Fiona Campbell

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Facetasm was amongst the first group of designers to kick off Paris Fashion Week. They played around with layers and classic styles that took on a contemporary look with the use of bright colours that popped against the darker shades.

Issey Miyake Men’s clean aesthetic was lifted by the garments being exaggerated by shape and texture. The garments were bunched and tied together to create fluidity with the fabrics yet still showed shape to the models figures creating a clean and modern look.

Balenciaga’s S/S18 collection certainly turned heads and split some opinions with it’s third menswear collection designed by Demna Gvasalia. The show was set in the grounds of the Bois de Boulogne park which created a forest like environment with chairs stretching down the long catwalk. The choice of models certainly got people talking, the inspiration for the shoot was based on dads on their day off and to further portray this concept, they had actual families walking in the show. Some of the models had their kids walking along side them also dressed in Balenciaga garments with slogans that emphasised hope, which beautifully represent the younger generations.

Lemaire showed us how to work a colour palette and wear it well. Bright colours were balanced out with softer darker tones. Their garments were elegant with a causal feel. Mixing matte with lustre fabrics to add some real luxurious personality.

A bold contemporary art inspired collection was brought to the catwalk by Walter Van Bierendonck. Colourful Picasso style artwork popped against dark colours and garments were oversized and gave us a futuristic glance into a cartoon world of optical illusions where art meets fashion.

Check out some more picks of Paris Mens Fashion Week…

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