The biggest Ooh La La moments at Paris Fashion Week
Paris Fashion Week concluded yesterday and it’s safe to say we have been wowed. New York, London and Milan have passed us by and in turn paved way for the ‘City of Lights’ to shine. From jacquard ball-gowns to floating tulle clouds we’re giving the low-down on perhaps the most vibrant quarter of Fashion Week this season.
Noir Kei Ninomiya’s collection was a fan-favourite for the Avant Garde style portrayed within the show. The designers signature aesthetic was clearly established through the use of in-your-face tulle and sculptural botanical headpieces consisting of succulents and leaves. A standout of the collection was undeniably the floating tulle dress which mirrored a passing cloud in frame and form. The theme for this show was ‘Beginnings’ and the pieces served as a metaphor for the broader leitmotif of ‘Creation’ by largely referencing nature.
Ninomiya’s architectural collection pushed the boundaries of Avant Garde that Japanese designers are so known for. The green moss-covered coat evoked images of trees found in a rainforest and the white dress with pearls protruding from thin wires really brought Ninomiya’s vision into full bloom.
Issey Miyake also had heads turning with their SS20 collection, ‘A Sense of Joy’. Performance art replaced a catwalk down the runway and models were dressed by brightly coloured hoops which lowered down in front of the audience. The brands new lead designer, Satoshi Kondo, continued Miyake’s maximalist approach managed to pay homage to female joy – models skid past the audience on skateboards and frolicked on stage showcasing the flamboyant fluidity of the dresses.
Whilst it is common to see exciting pieces down the runways – Noir’s collection irrefutably showcased this – it is rare to see models excited and having fun. The show displayed the quintessential art of fashion and Kondo stated with the collection he wanted to “look into the relationship between the human body and the clothes, and to express the joy of wearing the clothes and of movement” which he definitely pulled off.
Saint Laurent impressed with their highly adorned frocks which irrefutably harked back to the Boho-chic aesthetic we knew all too well in ‘05. Laurent met the mid-2000 fashion trend, however, with elegance and finesse – embellishing slip dresses with paisley sequinned patterns and pairing it with slouchy metallic boots – Mary Kate & Ashley and Sienna Miller would approve.
Glittered embroidery of every colour on black chiffon reminded us of fireworks exploding cross a night sky and the hippie glam theme was continued through the collection with knee high maroon boots, teal suede shorts and glistening fabric bonnets. Though we thought the fashion industry was still recovering from the trends of the 2000’s, it appears certain designers have now recuperated.
Comme de Garçons effortlessly pulled off grandeur and extravagance in their SS20 collection. Luminescent jacquard, Elizabethan hair and 3D flowers graced the runway and demonstrated just how ‘anti-fashion’ the brand can go. CDG’s commitment to deviating from traditional silhouettes was undeniably seen in Look 9 which featured a skirt which jut out on either side of the model’s waist. Highly bejewelled silk gowns featuring glistening gold brocade made it look as though the model walked out of an art nouveau painting and straight onto the catwalk.
Graphics by Fiona Campbell
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