Arguably, one of the most awaited fashion moments of this season was presented on the second to last day of Paris Fashion Week. Matthew Williams made his debut as the new creative director of Givenchy during the Paris Fashion Week with his Spring 2021 ready-to-wear collection.

The 34 years old Californian designer is often considered as a modernist, which is undeniable due his past collaborations with Kanye West and his own label Alyx. However, even if his modern touch and futuristic outlook are noticeable in his work for Givenchy, he managed to create a balanced interdependence between the old and the new, respecting and honouring the work of its founder and past creative directors.

Givenchy SS21 Collection images via Vogue Runway

This collection made it clear that however modern and diverse Williams’ style may be it won’t discard the history and iconic elements of the French brand. As noticeable in every single one of the 54 looks, he incorporates hints of the past in his casual yet groundbreaking creations, as for example the open backs that clearly reference Hubert de Givenchy’s signature style and distinctive patterns reminding us of Lee Alexander McQueen’s work.

Givenchy SS21 Collection images via Vogue Runway

The main inspiration, as explained by Williams himself, was “hardware” which represents both elegance and pragmatism. The strong accessories, oversized bags, and structured staples were inspired by the idea of the “Lover’s Lock” that can be found in Paris. The stronger details incorporated by the American designer can be compared to the keys that overwhelm the famous “Pont des Arts” and that complement the river Seine, which have become a modern urban symbol that now forms part of a long-lasting history. Quite like this new collection.

Givenchy SS21 Collection images via Vogue Runway

It wasn’t just any other collection, it was a sample for everything that’s about to come. This new creative input was judged by many, but we at Voir have nothing but love and admiration for the new designs. They represent a challenging new path for Givenchy, they represent trust in younger generations and this is something that many brands are starting to demonstrate.

Another curious aspect particular to this collection was its delivery; a digital lookbook made of 54 still images taken by photographer Heji Shin. At first, you may think that it lacks that human connection present at a live show, but it’s the contrary. As explained by the designer himself it allows to transmit the essence of the people wearing the clothes, since according to him that’s what makes it so special. “Never forgetting the reality of the person who will wear it and bring it to life. The women and men should be powerful and effortless, equal and joyful, a reflection of who they really are – only more so. It’s about finding humanity in luxury.” Words by Chiara Ferrari

Graphics by Frances Scott

The post Matthew Williams Honours the Old and New Through his Givenchy SS21 Ready-to-Wear Collection appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Presenting a diversified collection, the fashion house is almost reinventing itself through playfulness but also self-awareness. Today, we were delighted to see yet again the word “vote” re-appear in a fashion show and new, innovative pieces on the runway. Here are our top five takes from the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2021 collection:

1. The collection was showcased on the top floor of the La Samaritaine building (a large department store from Paris). Here, Louis Vuitton brought modernity to the monument’s Art Deco architecture and Art Nouveau frescoes, by projecting images, evoking a long-lost Hollywood glamour on the green screens decorating the runway. Videos showing solitude or a serene sleep were by far the most powerful – a hint to positivity and calmness in a world led by chaos.

Louis Vuitton SS21 Collection images via Vogue Runway

2. The projections were not only all around the runway, they could also be spotted on the bags. Featuring the Blade Clutch (a fresh, new, and modern bag from Louis Vuitton) or the re-invented Carrousel bag, Nicholas Ghesquiere has proved once again the chameleonic character of the Louis Vuitton bag. While the ‘LV’ monogram is still very much present on the runway, we could not help but notice that the all-monogram look is not as favoured as it used to be.

3. Inspired by positive injunctions (such as “Vote”, “Tickle”, “Take Over”, “Climb”), the collection featured cartoonish prints on the most unexpected garments. Opening with the “Vote” fine-knit jumper, the fashion house (like many others) completely caught our attention and shed light on the real conversations within today’s pop culture. The “Reach” and “Drive” sequined loose-fit tops were by far our favourites.

Louis Vuitton SS21 Collection images via Vogue Runway

4. Louis Vuitton left behind tie-dye and introduced the marble effect as the pattern for Spring/Summer 2021. Loose fit, long trousers with metallic inserts or a suit built in the same style were the stars of the show. These glamorous pieces create a paradox between femininity and masculinity, with options for both day and night.

Louis Vuitton SS21 Images via Vogue Runway

5. While the messaging on the clothing, metallic effects, and sequinned garments were to be expected from a Spring/Summer collection, the ongoing use of neutrals and icy tones came as a surprise. Showing resistance in their gloomy tones, these pieces provide a more subtle hint to today’s reality. The trench coat has been reinvented in a different season, in a dusty beige with a bomber jacket-inspired structure and mix of fabric inserts. We were completely amazed by the all-neutral outerwear presented at the show.

Louis Vuitton SS21 images via Vogue Runway

Words by Emilia Roman

The post Louis Vuitton Transforms Positivity and Hope into it’s S/S21 Collection: 5 Things You Should Know appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Givenchy

Givenchy SS21 Collection via Vogue Runway

Givenchy’s SS21 collection is electric. This collection was Matthew M William’s debut with the house – a 34-year-old urban wear designer whose role at the house marks a new age of creative ingenuity for Givenchy. William’s has been grouped with designers like Virgil Abloh and Kim Jones, and looking at the collection you can understand the comparison. The designs amalgamate the elegant and the relaxed, with pieces nodding to the house’s style but infusing it with the new dynamic of streetwear.

William is obsessed with texture which is very apparent looking at the collection. Standout pieces included huge oversized bags and blazers with exaggerated silhouettes, not to mention the half-nude outfits – Dressed in tiny briefs, oversized jackets, and tiny handbags that bear a level of detail that is equal parts precision and genius, boldly exaggerating the silhouette and drawing attention to the models’ bare skin.

Givenchy SS21 images via Vogue Runway

The collection also bore ingenious takes on some of this year’s biggest trends. Of course, there was an abundance of leather, and mesh designs, adding a sense of SNM chic. There were also futuristic notes: tops in a box shape, ranging from plain tonal black to brown croc leather, this added a Star Trek but chic element to the collection.

Corsets were also front and centre, with designs in leather accompanied with billowing trousers, there was a level of edge added to the phenomenon of naked dressing.

Gabriela Hearst

Gabriela Hearst ss21 Collection via Vogue Runway

Last month, Hearst was named CFDa’s Womenswear Designer of the Year: she is the fist woman to win the prize in five years. In line with that success, her collection for SS21 is a considerable achievement. Hearst’s effort surrounding sustainability this season are also of note – offsetting the Carbon footprint of the show by donating to an NGO that protects the Amazon rainforest, she also continues to use upcylced materials and deadstocks in her collections. Hearst’s collection was inspired by a shell bracelet from Easter Island – leading her to explore sacred geometry, pointing to spirituality and a kinship to God as a geometer of the world.

Gabriela Hearst ss21 Collection via Vogue Runway

The collection is a masterclass in chicness and minimalism. The majority of the designs were in black and white, with the occasional interjection of colour in reds, oranges and purples. Dresses in silks and leather, with simple silhouettes that lend an air of effortless glamour to the collection. The most ambitious designs were the ponchos – oversized and billowing in vertical stripes and leather dresses with puff sleeves and tiny, sinching waist lines.

Gabriela Hearst ss21 Collection via Vogue Runway

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood SS21 Collection via Vogue Runway

This collection is exactly what you would expect from the mother of punk. Energetic, edgy and ingenious, Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood injected a much-needed jolt of life into the bleak landscape we are currently in, proving once again that fashion is a mirage of hope and optimism right now. One of the things I find most exciting about this shoot is the minimal approach the house took, shot by Kronthaler with only four models, this approach is nothing if not proof of the new age of fashion that we are moving into. The designs are confrontational – loud tartans, Edwardian Esque ruffles, metallic dresses and eccentric headdresses, this collection is completely archetypal of the Westwood brand and reminds us that even in the darkest of times, Westwood is there to inject life, disrupt expectations and dismantle the status quo.

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood SS21 Collection via Vogue Runway

Hermes

Hermes SS21 Collection via Vogue Runway

If you were to distill the essence of a French girl chic into a collection, it would be Hermes SS21. This collection was all over Instagram this past weekend and for good reason. Think nonchalant sensuality, enduring style and a total sense of je ne sais quo, with fishnet dresses and aprons in rigid lines lent the collection an air of fetish, an essence of desire swims through the collection. The designs are timeless and seductive and embody the kind of style that most mortals can only hope to someday replicate. Emily in Paris could never.

Hermes | Spring Summer 2021 | Full Show via FF Channel via Vogue Runway

Balenciaga

Balenciaga SS21 Collection via Vogue Runway

Think modern glamour, but then think again because Balenciaga just reinvented it. Balenciaga decided to debut their SS21 collection with a music video, drawing inspiration from an 80s track by Corey Heart which sings the line – ‘I wear my sunglasses at night’. Encapsulate that and you’re in the mood for this show. The collection continued Balenciaga’s pledged to be more sustainable – 93.5% of the plain materials are certified sustainable or upcycled and 100% of the pint bases have sustainable certifications. As collections become more sustainable, there is a sense that something different is happening, a new energy being distilled into vibrant new pieces and this Balenciaga show completely reflects that.

Balenciaga SS21 Collection via Vogue Runway

Demna Gvasalia, the creative director of Balenciaga was dedicated not only to making the collection sustainable but uni everything from sex to size. This new approach marks a new age for both the house and for fashion, as we move toward a new inclusive and kinder industry, this new energy is felt throughout the collection. The designs are simple and elegant, long silhouettes oversized coats and fringing, with notes of streetwear from puffer jackets to logos and chunky trainers. Vibrant, engaging and innovative, this collection is truly something to be excited about.

Words by Marni Rose McFall

Graphics by Frances Scott

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If day 4 of Paris Fashion Week had one recurring theme, it was the focus around how the pandemic has altered the way we think about fashion. From transforming dresses in Y/Projects ss21 collection, to metallic dungarees and studded leather pants in Isabel Marant’s disco-infused collection, we were reminded of the past and future and how the pandemic has changed and evolved the face of fashion.

Chloe SS21 took us on a walk through reality

Chloe SS21 images via Filippo Fior, Vogue Runway

Presented outside the Palais de Tokyo, the Chloe spring/summer SS21 show, titled “A Season In Hope”, effortlessly reminded us of what everyday life used to look and feel like. Creative Director Ramsay Levi was in search of normality. Leaving models to ponder around the streets of Paris, walking along the Seine, and smoking a Cigarette, the fronting theme of optimism perfectly embodied the Parisian inspired coverage of the show; to walk and watch. As the models were broadcasted on screens outside the Palais de Tokyo, the unique collection personified a moment where our worries were free and where women can embrace their power and strength. Married by the French feeling of chic street style moments and nonchalantly strolling the lanes of Paris, the show was a blissful and carefree presentation of the SS21 collection.

Chloe SS21 Collection video via Fashion Feed

Influenced by watercolor, multi-layered tones took centre stage. Pleated ‘arsenic’ dresses, camisoles, delicate lacework, prints, and knits; the incorporation of mixed media pieces added depth and dimension to the clothes. Juxtaposing pieces such as silk wools paired with ruffled shoulders added a playfulness to the pieces, not to mention the accessories. Sculptured and structured bags and jewellery contrasted the freedom seen throughout the clothes and added a sense of rigidity to the collection.

Y/Project defined ‘Day to Night’

Y/Project SS21 Collection

Y/PROJECT SS21 MAIN / HOW TO WEAR

2020 has been about reinvention and adaption to new ways of life. A statement that can be perfectly compared to Glenn Martens Y/Project Spring/summer 2021 collection. Where floral dress can be un-fastened and transformed into a ruched top and pencil skirt, or an office pinstripe shirt dress re-worked into a backless, ruffled mini dress. Alteration and change really are the key motifs through this collection, giving us inspiration and food for thought in the way we think about fashion. Going from day to night looks in a matter of minutes, their SS21 collection proves to us that fashion is ours to own. And that there is no excuse for missing post-work drinks.

Y/Project SS21 Collection

Rick Owens showcased the influence of the pandemic

Rick Owens SS21 Collection

If you asked what the face of fashion would look like in October 2020, one look at Rick Owens SS21 collection and all your questions would be answered. Presented in the Piazza outside the Lido Casino his collection is a true reflection of how the pandemic has influenced French fashion. Asymmetrical suits, power shoulders, platform knee-high heels, all finished off with standout face masks, the collection is equally as dark as it is enlightening. A real testament to how the pandemic has shaped and strengthened our minds to adapt. As Owens said in an interview with Vogue “In the face of adversity, we have to pull ourselves up”.

Rick Owens SS21 Full show via FF Channel

Rick Owens SS21 Collection

Isabel Marant took us back to the dancefloor

Isabel Marant SS21

Extravagant ruffles, miniskirts, off the shoulder tops and stud adorned leather jumpsuits, Isabel Marant reminded us of a world we so dearly miss since the coronavirus pandemic. Models walked the SS21 runway on Thursday night striving in metallic hot-pants, oversized jewellery, and killer heels. The list could go on. Reminding us of the good times, Isabel’s SS21 collection injected a dose of optimism and hope to the return of pre-COVID life.

Isabel Marant SS21

Words by Clare Stephenson

Graphic by Clare Stephenson

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