Business Attire

 The Autumn/Winter 2023 season embraces business attire with a renewed sense of elegance and power. Precision-cut tailoring takes centre stage as designers adopt a pared-back approach, favouring clean lines and classic silhouettes. The focus lies in creating an authoritative yet refined look. The ’80s make a comeback through exaggerated shoulders and exaggerated silhouettes. Classic styles, like plain black suits, blazers, pencil skirts, and shirts, are elevated with subtle twists, while the black tie captures timeless sophistication as well as embracing a modern edge.

Bows

The ballet core trend gets its fashion treatment showcasing ribbons delicately positioned to evoke an air of grace and charm. From mini feminine bows to XXL, they emerge as a key embellishment, adorning tops, dresses, bags, and shoes. In different materials like satin and vinyl, they are as elegant as avant-garde and capable of elevating any ensemble to its fullest potential.

Tartan

This timeless pattern, traditional from Scotland, and then adopted by Punk subcultures, undergoes a reinvention this season with a strikingly vibrant colour palette. Unconventional colour combinations imbue a contemporary flair into the traditional design. Displayed across diverse garments such as capes, oversized coats, tube skirts, and necklaces, the tartan trend harmonizes tradition with modernity, presenting a rejuvenated approach to a timeless motif.

Black Lace

Sensuality and femininity take the lead this Autumn-Winter season. Black lace emerges as a key trend, portraying an edgy yet refined aesthetic. Whether adorning full dresses or adding delicate accents, for evening elegance or casual chic, this trend seamlessly blends the classic with the avant-garde, delivering sophistication at its core.

Florals

 Florals? For Autumn? Groundbreaking! Gothic Florals? Even better! Neither girly nor romantic; they emanate a gothic aura with moody-hued blooms juxtaposed against deep colours such as black or charcoal grey. This fresh interpretation of Spring florals draws inspiration from grey skies and long nights, presenting a poetic and subtly darker allure.

Feathers

Feathers were recurrent in collections, adding glamour and opulence to various ensembles. This dramatic trend surprisingly finds its place in both minimalistic garments and extravagant dresses and coats, showcasing its remarkable versatility. Ranging from playful ornamentation to flamboyant aesthetics, this trend imbues looks with an opulent dimension and a creative twist.

Sheer Fabrics

Not entirely certain if it’s the most fitting choice for wintertime, but sheer fabrics have endured for quite some time, emerging as the quintessential indoor “wow” element. Creating an intriguing play of opacity and transparency, this trend is sexy and combined with the right accessories is sophisticated and elegant.

Christmas Red

Head-to-toe red ensembles take the spotlight this season. Evoking memories of Christmas time, this shade is poised to establish itself as a holiday essential. Bold, chic, and audacious, a complete red outfit makes a statement of individuality and confidence.

Metallics

As every year, metallic hues are summoned for the holiday season. Perhaps it’s their resemblance to Christmas lights or the backdrop of dark winter nights, but the realm of fashion remains unwilling to let it go. Nevertheless, every season witnesses the reinvention of this trend, offering a fresh perspective on the holiday wardrobe. Traditionally dominated by gold, this year, silver takes centre stage as a prominent metallic shade. It is characterised by high shine finishes that introduce a touch of opulence. Glittering sequins, molten lamé fabrics, and plush metallic coats infuse a sense of glamour into the festive season.

Black And Whites

This classic combination exudes timeless elegance, providing a versatile canvas for an array of styles and aesthetics. Infusing a sense of refinement and sophistication, this trend harmonises with the season’s pursuit of understated yet luxurious looks.

_{Written By Carolina Benjumea}

^{Header Image By Mia Washbrook}

The post Autumn/Winter 23 Trends Are Anything But Austere appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Perhaps the most surprising thing so far has been the important role that animals have played in the collections. The animal kingdom appears to have inspired designers across the board for NYFW, from zoomorphic models to butterfly wing prints. So, without further ado, here is our rundown of everything you need to know about New York Fashion Week so far.

Collina Strada

We may have already seen hyper-realistic animal outfits take to the catwalk this year with Schiaparelli’s taxidermy-inspired looks causing quite the stir at Paris Fashion Week last month. However, Collina Strada’s zoomorphic collection could not have been more different. Collina Strada’s enthusiasm for environmentalism has been clear for a very long time, but their latest ‘Please Don’t Eat My Friends’ Campaign solidified this position even further. In AW21, creative director Hillary Taymour explored the “Animorphs” theme digitally where looks were paralleled with correlating animal images. The AW23 collection, however, took this motif to a new level where the models now physically morphed into animals using incredibly detailed facial prosthetics.

The collection was another of Collina Strada’s sustainable ranges and followed some of their trademark styling decisions including extreme layering of sheer or lace pieces, oversized silhouettes that skimmed the body, and the pairing of dresses and trousers in the same look. The show also featured Collina Strada’s recent collaboration with Vans, a vibrant and playful collection that brings childhood nostalgia to your adult wardrobe.

^{Photo Credit: Courtesy of Collina Strada}

Anna Sui 

Anna Sui’s ‘Heaven Can Wait’ show was not only intimate in terms of size, with only about 80 guests in the Peppermint Lounge, but also in its designs. Channelling inspiration from the 90s and 2000s; the slip dress was at the core of this collection. Anna Sui shared on Instagram “I wanted little dresses to dance in. Slip dresses in satin or chiffon with lingerie lace trim plus beautiful blouses and jackets with the same treatment.” This tied the intimacy of dressing to the intimacy of the bar and, of course, to New York City nightlife. 

The collection explored the looks of the 90s and 2000s in a youthful way that was inspired by nightlife. The models took to a small stage and danced in front of the crowd of onlookers before treating the bar as their catwalk. The collection was not only reminiscent in the sense that the looks took inspiration from the 90s, 2000s and even 60s but also because Anna Sui brought back items from her earlier collections for this show. To celebrate the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Rabbit, Sui brought back her bunny ear hats from her 1998 collection as well as crochet hats from 1993. 

Dion Lee 

Skin is often a focus of Dion Lee’s work, usually playing with the binary between what is and isn’t on show. However, this collection took a slightly different look at the concept of skin, focusing instead on the skin shedding experienced by reptiles. The collection featured an array of looks inspired by reptilian scales including snake and crocodile prints but also the warping of other materials and incorporation of Dion Lee’s trademark cut-outs in order to create textures reminiscent of a reptile. 

The play on the notion of skin continued beyond the prints at hand as Lee focused heavily on silhouettes and textures in order to depict the moment of skin being shed. This included a variety of distressed materials, including wool and denim, as well as a focus on outerwear, all playing into the idea of layering and a ‘second skin’.

_{^{Photo Credit: Courtesy of Dion Lee}}

Heron Preston 

Heron Preston just made a monumental New York Fashion Week debut. The San Franciscan designer usually showcases his collections at Paris Fashion Week and so treated this debut as a fashion homecoming, paying homage to the city that Preston has called home for the past 15 years. The show opened with a group of individuals wearing utility-inspired vests, in Heron’s trademark vibrant orange, spray-painting the concrete floor with directions that the models would later follow. This set the scene for a collection that was sure to celebrate city-life by painting a literal street for the streetwear collection to make its debut.  

As a designer that predominantly champions streetwear influences, the show was full of utilitarian-inspired looks, however, they did not come without that New York fashion-scene flair. Utility jackets were cropped and paired with skirts over trousers or sheer bodysuits, leather jackets were paired with chainmail hoods, and tracksuits were paired with furry boots. This combined the fun of New York City fashion with streetwear basics, in a perfect love letter to the city and community that was being honoured. 

Prabal Gurung 

Prabal Gurung’s ‘Anichya’ (Impermanence) collection continued the nature-inspired theme that we have been seeing throughout New York Fashion week so far as it celebrated metamorphosis through a butterfly wing motif. The pattern was central to the collection, appearing not only on several of the opening looks from the show but also as the background for promotional images posted on Instagram.  

As the show went on the print itself undertook a metamorphosis as the pattern became less prominent and instead intricately appliqued organza took centre stage. However, even as the butterfly wing pattern faded out of the collection, its inspiration remained clear. Instead, the flowing silks and sheer dresses mimicked the nature of the butterfly wings and we are reminded of the theme of impermanence as we are thrust between the juxtaposition of light and dark, of the delicate and the durable. 

^{Photo Credit: Courtesy of Prabal Gurung}

Words By Amelia Gregory

_{Header Image: Heron Preston, Dion Lee, Prabal Gurung}

The post An Animalistic Start to New York Fashion Week appeared first on Voir Fashion.

“you did it first. always. incredible style with brilliant and meaningful substance. 

I continue to learn from your words, and, all of your extraordinary creations. I will always remember the night we bonded over our mutual love for Yves Saint Laurent. You never failed to surprise and to shock. I am grateful for the moments I got to share with you and Andreas. 

Rest in Peace dear Vivienne, although, somehow peace seems like the wrong word to use.

my deepest sympathies to Andreas and your family.”

But this heartfelt post, is not where Jacobs’ tribute ended, his latest collection was full of punk influences, highlighting Westwood’s impact on the industry and proved the perfect collection to pay homage to her and her work. The show was aptly titled “Heroes”, with a quote from Westwood featured in the show notes:

“Fashion is life-enhancing, and I think it’s a lovely, generous thing to do for other people.”

Kiki Boots

The show was full of Marc Jacobs’ iconic Kiki Boots. The sky-high platform boots were recently re-issued through Jacobs’ Heaven line and were worn in every look in the collection. The boots are reminiscent of Vivienne Westwood’s iconic Gillie platform shoes from the 1993 ‘Anglomania’ collection (yes, the ones responsible for Naomi Campbell’s famous fall at Paris Fashion Week).

Not only did the Kiki boot pay homage to Vivienne Westwood but it also highlighted her influence on the fashion industry as we were reminded of the role she played in popularising the trend that has dominated red-carpets for the past couple of years. 

^{Image Credits: Marc Jacobs}

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Billowing Silhouttes

One of Vivienne Westwood’s trademarks was her use of billowing silhouettes. Fitted corsets and bustiers were often paired with voluptuous ruched skirts to create elaborate silhouettes full of volume and texture. These designs were replicated by Marc Jacobs through the delicate ruching and folding of fabrics to create flamboyant silhouettes inspired by the punk trend.

^{Image Credits: Marc Jacobs}

“Tit Tops”

In 1981 Vivienne Westwood turned heads when her Pirate collection featured “tit tops”. As the name may give away, these were tops that had twisted fabric on the bust to imitate nipples. Marc Jacobs took inspiration from this in the AW23 collection which featured various looks with heavily structured busts in its tops and dresses. 

_{^{Image Credits: Marc Jacobs}}

Layering

ivienne Westwood may just be the blueprint for successful layering. Her shows always offered an abundance of textures and patterns, proving that more truly is more. Marc Jacobs took this in his stride for the AW23 collection which offered a masterclass in layering. Whether it was a short jacket or floor-length coat, many of the looks in the show advocated for layering, some featured jackets tied around models’ waists, or draped over their arms, but whether they were being worn traditionally or not, the layers were there.

^{Image Credits: Marc Jacobs}

Words By Amelia Gregory

^{Header Image: Marc Jacobs}

The post Marc Jacobs Honours Vivienne Westwood In AW23 Show appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Yves Saint Laurent 

Expectations were high, expectations were met. The French luxury house once again showed the world why they maintain their premium status. To say YSL understood the assignment for menswear AW23 would be an understatement. The chic eveningwear line featured long trench coats, white shirts, and high necklines.

_{Image Credit: Yves Saint Laurent}

The whole collection, which brought the first day of the fashion week to a close, was sleek and clean-cut. Intimidating and smart, full monochromatic looks were emphasized with up-turned collars and pointed boots. Strong fabrics constructed robust coats which contrasted with satin oversized bows, giving a softness to the collection. One thing is for sure, sleek fashion was placed at the forefront of their AW23.  

Valette Studio 

Founded in 2020, we present the designer brand who are responsible for the collection that had us gasping. Designer Pierre-François Valette creates an aesthetic of ‘Casual Couture’ for both menswear and womenswear. The menswear, which showcased on day one, conveyed a hybrid of streetstyle and formalwear. Comfort is a key influence in their suit design process as well as the use of patterns and colour. New collections take new influences from art and culture in our society, expressing modern life. 

Similar to YSL, most of the looks were sleek and chic. An overarching theme of elegance is hovering over men’s AW23 looks so far. Sharp tailoring and classic pieces of menswear were given a revamp for a modern aesthetic, pushing the everyday societal fashion.  

Kidill  

‘Enfant Terrible’ by Kidill was a show to remember. The clothing debuted on skaters who rolled their way through the concrete building in front of stunned spectators. If the clothing wasn’t classed as cool enough, it certainly was after skaters performed tricks on rails and blocks. The performance gave life to the collection and captured the childlike playfulness which they harnessed during the design process.  

_{Image Credit: Isidore Montag}

The clothing itself was super cool. Super casual styles of oversized t-shirts and baggy matching sets. Edgy pieces with punk influence featured during the performance, which is signature to the brand’s style. Tartan patterns, badged jackets and bandanas- the collection was a skater’s dream come true.  

Egon Lab 

More punk styles have emerged for menswear AW23 as Egon Lab’s latest show has proved their punk influences are giving hardcore 2023 fashion trend. An edgy rooted brand, Egon Lab has the punk subculture running through its veins. Blending the genders in their collections as well as societies predetermined juxtapositions such as romance and rebellion.  

The show starred favourites such as Tayce and Palaye Royale, strutting down the runway in the designs of the French label. Huge exaggerated shoulders featured on boxy over-sized jackets, while other jackets were fully fur covered. Retro floral, tartan and gingham prints made re-occurring appearances on the runway giving flairs of the past in a modern light. Layers showed off conflicting patterns of skinny scarves and shirts on top of long-sleeved t-shirts.  

_{Words By Erin Wilson}

The post Breaking Down Paris Men’s Fashion Week For You. appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Namilia

The hype for Namilia was crazy. We were waiting for spectacular design executions, and honey, they killed it. Aligning with our beliefs of feminism and female empowerment, we knew the show was going to seize the moment and embrace the best of female fashion. Namilia is a hot name right now and we are an established diehard fan, along with one of our favourite girls, Rosalia.

The atmosphere was electric, and the fashion was eccentric. Channelling the rave culture of Berlin, Namilia went full-out for their debut. A strong green light emerged before the show began, symbolizing this show was going to be something spectacular. Lights flashed, the rave music began and the tension built to a climatic point. Bursting through the pent-up anticipation, models appeared dramatically striding down the runway. Everything was insane. Floor length extensions and wet looks dominated the hairstyles, while bleached brows, prosthetics and graphic liners ruled the make-up looks. A size-inclusive show which featured none other than fashion legend, Tayce, to close the show, what a performance.

_{Images Courtesy of Berlin Fashion Council}

Namilia outdid themselves and we were obsessed with the looks. In true Namilia fashion, studs, chains and unnatural exaggerated silhouettes appeared down the runway. Their signature style of full-blown leather outfits made up of trench coats and biker jackets showed the brand’s evolved style from last season. The bulk of the futuristic and experimental collection was white and black fits, but they are bringing back the neons as green and orange flares were popular in their set. The presence of continuing trends- sheer, faux fur and biker looks- have proved they will enter our AW23, and we spotted flares and belts as upcomers. We couldn’t get enough of the slouchy boots and the collection as a whole got us hyped for the Berlin club scene.

Litkovska

Lilia Litkovska, a renowned Ukrainian fashion designer showed her inspired collection for women’s AW23 fashion. Evidently, fashion is in her DNA as she comes from a long-line of tailors. Her furiousness to preserve classic and traditional Ukrainian craftsmanship shines through her strong designs.

An incredibly touching show was served by Litkovska. Her collection, ‘Vesniankas’, beautifully took inspiration from her upbringing within Ukraine and the country’s heritage. The ensemble of looks contained deep meaning which gave the whole show a sentimental atmosphere. ‘Vesniankas’ are songs which celebrate the emergence of Spring and have been performed in Ukraine for thousands of years. Litkovska was inspired by the symbolism Spring holds for new beginnings. Her hopeful spirit holds optimism for the people of Ukraine and this collection is a tribute to a hopeful new beginning for the nation.

_{Images Courtesy of Berlin Fashion Council}

Walking to the sound of traditional ‘Vesniankas’, the show was impactful, to say the least. Litkovska designs a radically realistic wardrobe for the modern woman, where traits of freedom and fragility can co-exist. The collection shown fitted her brief to a tee, and stood out as charismatically charming. Masculine tailored styles contrasted with soft feminine aesthetics. Light fringe dresses in bohemian fabrics brought a soft elegance to the collection and elaborately embroidered designs were striking. The whole collection conveyed a faint sensual desire and embodied the mix of youthful energy and sophistication.

Fassbender

‘Beauty From Within’ inspires the Hamburg designer Christina Fassbender. She likes to re-imagine classic and staple pieces which are versatile and can serve every woman. The beauty of her work speaks for itself as cuts are clean and sophisticated. Nature commonly inspires the designer as she believes the Fassbender Woman appreciates the natural beauty in her surrounding landscape.

A gorgeous and delicate scene was set for viewing her latest work for AW23, which aligned with the themes and aesthetics of her designs. Focusing on comfort in her designs, it was fitting that we sat at a lovely set table, able to review the collection in a relaxed and effortless manner. A theatrical live art demonstration kicked off the show which showed a dress being painted live with whimsical patterns. The beautiful runway display finished up with the model in the painted dress closing. Post-walk, a vegetarian meal was served before us allowing us to soak up the atmosphere and marvel at the collection.

_{Images Courtesy of Berlin Fashion Council}

The designs within ‘Identity’ broke free from Fassbender’s mind as she contemplated her own identity and sense of self. In a time of self-reflection and soul-searching, she was unaware that the moments of clarity would be the very thing to inspire her next collection. 30 looks capture the evolution of her identity, as the collection shows a youthful traditional sense of her spirit transform into more mature styles. Grungy checks and English tweed defined parts of the collection as well as straight tailoring. Deconstructed blazers and boxy silhouettes featured as menswear influenced the designer profusely. Key aspects which abundantly appeared during the show were metallic silver pieces, full-length silhouettes and pops of pastel blue and fuchsia. The cuts were super clean and chic and the whole event was beautifully executed. Being a collection formed from recycled and/or recyclable materials, we have respect for the brand’s responsibility and future direction.

DZHUS

Award winning designer, Irina Dzhus, is an inspiration who we are proud to say levelled up at BFW. The designer had to flee Ukraine as war broke out and has been taking refuge in multiple cities across Europe. Her visions of fashion focus on transformation which she incorporated brilliantly into her conceptual collection which showcased on Wednesday. Described as utilitarian, however, avant-garde, the collection intertwines the best of practicality and creativity. As a designer she puts political issues at the centre of her work which gives her designs great importance and will be historically significant of the time.

Dzhus created a striking atmosphere which was really powerful to be a part of. The music of chilling voices and clashing orchestra instruments emphasized the severity and weight of meaning the collection held. Models walked eerily slow until they halted in the middle of the runway. Standing face-to-face with Dzhus… the transformation process began. Tension had built, but quickly released as new looks appeared in front of us with an air of amazement, as if by magic.

_{Images Courtesy of Berlin Fashion Council}

The ten individual looks were multi-functional and embraced the importance of sustainable choices. Designs constructed of bag pockets took influence from Dzhus’s personal experience of fleeing her country, capturing the sense of uprooting your life and your lifetime of belongings with you. We thought these designs were spectacularly powerful and purposeful. The collection adopted a neutral monochromatic palette which increased the impact of the designs.

Lou De Bètoly 

This French designer has a hold on us and we cannot seem to escape. The tangible creations influenced by surrealist and dreamlike states can’t hook us enough. Her designs are unique and incomparable which made the anticipation for her show sky-high. The edginess of Berlin shines through her delicate Parisian aesthetic, and if you didn’t already know, we love a hybrid style. This brand is thriving right now with the likes of style icon, Dua Lipa, appearing again and again in Lou De Bètoly designs.

The stakes were high in the Casino for Lou de Bètoly on Wednesday, and may we say, they got dealt a royal flush. Taking place in a Berlin Casino, the show started dark and smoky, with heavy breathing amplifying through the speakers. The atmosphere created was dramatic and moody…everyone was gripping to the edges of their seats at what was away to come. Down the flower furnished stairs strutted model after model who began descending their dramatic entwining journeys throughout our tables.

_{Images Courtesy of Berlin Fashion Council}

The collection for AW23 Lou de Bètoly created was stunning. Her punk, surrealist influences were abundantly clear in the designs, and yet the garments created an overall delicate and whimsical aesthetic. Lots of floral detailing featured in her latest looks, in a deconstructed, almost chaotic sense. The dismantled petals strategically covered the model’s modesty as they perched on top of sheer dresses. A lighter Spring palette was evident in her range of looks, which added to the airy and ethereal nature of the collection. We could not take our eyes off of the lace embroidered looks which dripped down the models. A Voir favourite was the netted crochet rose dress. The pink and red crocheted into each other very naturally and created a graceful look. Major trends of bodice cut-outs, veils and fringing also made their way into the set of AW23 looks.

LML Studio

Hauntingly gorgeous. The LML Studio gave us a chilling experience which we can’t shake. The genius designer behind the LML Studio looks, Lucas Meyer-Leclère, has an array of experience across the fashion industry. The product of all this valuable insight and knowledge over the years, is, of course, LML Studio. Having previously worked for major brands such as Chanel and Jimmy Choo, in 2017 he set up LML Studio and started building his own legacy.

Deciding to show his collection in the church which is home to his atelier, he built up a cool essence of mystique around the collection. This was therefore a significant location for the designer as the vision, construction and release of the full collection all took place under the very roof. It was also a creative decision which symbolized the collection’s theme as song of ascent, ‘Nisi Dominus’, from the Bible is the collection’s number one inspiration. As the organ played, models wandered and cameras flashed. The show was theatrical and very performative. Midway through the collection’s presentation, a transgender bride appeared down the aisle, which brought the whole experience to life. As an experience it captured surrealism as well as sentiment.

_{Images Courtesy of Berlin Fashion Council}

The looks were sleek. Men dressed in sophisticated, well-tailored styles slowly made their way down the church aisles. LML Studio’s take on AW23 let gender constraints melt away as feminine inspirations and techniques were brought into menswear. The designer believes letting the identity of the wearer be seen through the clothing. Hand-woven tweeds and fabrics were displayed in an elegant, contemporary fashion. The use of silk braids and recycled organic yarns gave a unique perspective of fashion’s future. The over 30-piece collection was elaborate and in our opinion a stroke of genius.

_{Words By Erin Wilson}

^{Header Graphics Image By Mia Washbrook}

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