Bold and statement worthy, the volume trend has marked its territory for the upcoming season. Amongst the numerous trends spotted in the Autumn/Winter 2020 collections, the volumized look has most definitely caught our attention. Who can blame us when this trend screams the classic go big or go home!

Voluminous sleeves

It was only a matter of time before voluminous sleeves returned to the forefront, claiming its place yet again as a stylish go-to. In the Autumn/Winter 2020 show, voluminous sleeves made a strong appearance amongst many of the collections. Roksanda’s orange maxi with oversized ruffle sleeves is one of our favourites along with Richard Quinn’s bulbous sleeved dresses which rock that nostalgic 80’s feel. If you dare for more extravagance, Viktor and Rolfe display a sculptural pink dress that is sure to turn some heads. A bulging sleeve is asymmetrically paired with one of contrasting size, offering a playful approach to volume.

Bubble up

As the colder months approach, this trend offers a practical yet stylish option for the upcoming season. The catwalk featured an array of enveloping garments with outerwear and dresses offering a bubble-like protective layer. This was a strong look in J.W. Anderson’s collection consisting of spherical silhouettes inclusively wrapping around the body. At Halpern, a dress of explosive colour engulfs the wearer, leaving only the front of the legs visible. Marine Serre took the inclusive look even further with black puffy outwear that conceals around the head; practicality at its best.

Exaggerate the Hip

The Autumn/Winter shows saw an extreme exaggeration of the hips; Area and Moschino being two of the houses that utilize the look. To say that Area’s jackets and dresses accentuate from the waist would be an understatement. Area has pushed hip volume to the extreme with a bulging heart shape that protrudes from a nipped waist. Moschino similarly presents an array of long-sleeved dresses that encompass an umbrella effect around the hip. Paired with knee-high boots, we love how Moschino has merged the traditional with a modern 2020 twist.

Ruffled Volume and Tulle

When we think of tulle it is almost impossible for the words ‘puffy’ ‘big’ and ‘Molly Goddard’ not to spring to mind. We can always rely on Goddard to present some extravagant tulle pieces on the catwalk and for Autumn/Winter 2020 they are voluminous and bold yet still retain that delicate quality. A red dress consisting of ruffled tulle expands outwards and is layered over a jumper for a more casual look. We love how Goddard has paired a sense of volume and extravagance with a staple jumper. At Louis Vuitton, ruffles can also be seen amongst skirts and dresses, the sheerness of the fabric lending itself to layering. Ruffled skirts and dresses can be paired with a sheer trouser as seen in Louis Vuitton or with a checked trouser from Molly Goddard, creating a subtle layered look that is versatile for every season. Words by Brooke Savino

Graphics by Georgia Walters

The post How Volume Hit the A/W 2020 Catwalk appeared first on Voir Fashion.

In 2018 Moncler introduced The Genius Project. The Genius Project is the collaboration of the French Brand Moncler with genius fashion designers to release monthly collections. The project at first was deemed too ambitious for the brand as it is the first of its kind, but has since proved to be not only genius but ahead of its time. Under the slogan one house different voices, Moncler continues to expand their rosters of collaborations with today’s leading designers like Pierpaolo Piccioli, Simone Rocha and Richard queen.

During the recent Milan fashion week, we witnessed the third instalment of this project. The show seemed to blow the previous 2019 show out of the water, with even more collaborations and better art installations. The show featured 11 collaborators from great designers like to Richard Queen J W Anderson, Rick Owens to the luggage company Rimowa.

MONCLER JW ANDERSON

Moncler JW Anderson AW2020 Collection

JW Anderson the new kid on the Moncler block brings us in Moncler fashion inflation and unlike the economy, we approve. The designer recreated his archival pieces puffed up with puffer hats and scarves modelled to the tune of Claire de Lune.

MONCLER RICHARD QUINN

Moncler Richard Quinn AW2020 Collection

Richard Quinn combines the future and past with sci-fi fashion and designs of the ’60s. With his own distinct aesthetic, to produce stunning pieces that presented as a space odyssey in the 60s.

MONCLER SIMONE ROCHA

Moncler Simone Rocha AW2020 Collection

With ruffle bottoms and tulle, Simon Rocha introduces femininity to Moncler’s structured technical and functional designs.

The brand also featured with accessory brands like Rimowa, Mate.Bike and Poldo Dog Couture with incredible art installations of a bike mountain, a dog grooming salon and a wall of luggage by Rimowa.

From the shows Moncler Rimowa, Moncler Poldo Dog Couture , Moncler Simone Rocha, Moncler Mate.Bike, Moncler Hiroshi Fujiwara and Moncler Grenoble Collaborations

The Genius project was purposed as a brand to keep up with the speed of the internet age and Instagram society. The red sands of the Moncler 1952 to the horizontal modelling stage in Moncler Grenoble has provided excellent visuals for the brand to continuously stay present in the minds and social media feeds off its consumers.

Words by Precious Njoki

Graphics by Katie Janes

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Burberry, Dilara Findikoglu, David Koma, Matty Bovan, Richard Quinn, Halpern, Ashley Williams, Simone Rocha and JW Anderson AW20 Collections

As London Fashion Week draws to an end, we reflect and give you a round-up of our favourite looks and collections.

Ashley Williams

Ashley Williams AW20 Collection

Ranging from a layered green fur coat, to a satin pink gown covered in bows, Williams leaves nothing to the imagination as this collection employs a perfect combination of youthful spirit and a tongue in cheek approach to fashion.

Burberry

Burberry AW20 Collection

From leopard print and bright power suits to puffer jackets and checked corsets, Burberry’s AW20 collection has everything we need for the season, including a selection of fur trimmed coats and deconstructed rugby shirts that bring more of a new edge as Burberry also brings back its traditional print that everyone knows and loves.

David Koma

David Koma AW20 Collection

Bringing a bit of bling to the runways, David Koma captures the seemingly glamorous side of London life. Filling the room with sparkles, layered leather and velvet-boned corsets, Koma dazzles the audience with a powerfully embellished minidress that beautifully illustrates all things London, including the iconic ‘Gherkin’ building.

Dilara Findikoglu

Dilara Findikoglu AW20 Collection

Dilara Findikoglu’s AW20 collection is anything but ordinary with a hooped-skirt metallic gown covered in structured flowers, satin genie pants and various corsets paired with tights. One of her designs consisted of 3-D floral harness climbing up to the torso of the model and one was aided by a model carrying an actual cat in her arms as she descended the runway.

Erdem

Erdem AW20 Collection

From delicately beaded sheer feminine pieces, to androgynously shaped suits Erdem Moralioglu and Cecil Beaton brought a version of strong elegance to the runway accompanied by feathered head dresses and pops of turquoise and lime green.

JW Anderson

JW Anderson AW20 Collection

Jonathon Anderson brings an element of the 1920s into his AW2020 collection, with bead work, tinsel-covered garments, iridescent translucent fabrics and mirrored metallic tassels. His leather shawl-collared black over-sized suit juxtaposed the delicacy of the tinsel perfectly with such a strong silhouette.

Matty Bovan

Matty Bovan AW20 Collection

Matty Bovan’s AW20 collection pushes the boundaries on socially acceptable fashion, through his hanging curtains and hair-covered head dresses.True to form, Bovan creates a collection of weird and wonderful designs, that have no obvious narrative or order but bring a whirlwind of colour, shape and excitement to the runway this season.

Richard Quinn

Richard Quinn AW20 Collection

One of the most powerful piece form Richard Quinn’s AW20 collection is the jewelled head-to-toe armoured ensemble that reads “God Save The Quinn” across the skirt – a clear homage to Britain. The rest of the collection is a kaleidoscope of extravagantly silhouetted gowns, feathered head dresses and the iconic Quinn power shoulders.

Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha AW20 Collection

Throughout Simone Rocha’s show you see a collection of pure light streaming down the runway, consisting of cream satin, tule and wool layers. As the show progresses, darker more romantic tones begin to enter, covered in florals with rich blue, purple and red colours bleeding into the collection.

Temperley London

Temperley London AW20 Collection

Alice Temperley’s collection which was shown in her Bruton Street store was intended to bring an element of fun to London Fashion Week. Her pieces ranged from feminine vintage-style dresses, to stronger leather suits with a music-inspired print featuring multiple times throughout the collection.

Halpern

Halpern AW20 Collection

Bringing back some 80s vibes, Halpern’s AW20 collection consists of a multitude of detailed textures and prints, ranging from burnout velvet and green snake print leather to 3-D floral colours and fringed tiger print. Many of the looks were accompanied by knee-high boots and intricate face decoration.

Words by Katie Janes

Graphics by Katie Janes

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The post Our AW20 London Fashion Week Round-Up appeared first on Voir Fashion.

The fashion crowd flocked to the capital of Scandi-chic this week for Copenhagen Fashion Week, where cult brands such as Cecilie Bahnsen and Ganni unveiled their Autumn/Winter 2020 collections. From statement prints and candy colours to neutral tones and minimalist silhouettes, take a look at the most covetable collections showcased in the Danish capital.

Selam Fessahaye

Swedish-Eritrean designer Selam Fessahaye used her AW20 show as a platform to champion diversity, as the only black designer at CPHFW, sending models of different races down the runway for one of the most diversely casted shows in the history of the city’s fashion week. The show opened with a barefoot model waltzing down the catwalk in a voluminous floor-filling taffeta skirt and matching bralet with a single puff sleeve, her hair adorned with traditional Eritrean golden headpieces in in tribute to Fessahaye’s Eritrean heritage. Myriad prints from leopard to baroque florals took form in exaggerated silhouettes and textures, with everything from an oversized kiwi print two-piece to a trailing maxi dress made up of waves of pleated tulle. Later on, a trench coat-cum-gown was printed with kaleidoscopic images of a woman holding a machine gun, symbolising women fighting for the liberation of Eritrea and reinforcing the show’s striking message of female strength.

Helmstedt

Emile Helmstedt’s AW20 collection drew inspiration from the designer’s fantasy world of elegant tea parties and French Pâtisserie, suitably showcased in Copenhagen’s French Embassy. The show was an explosion of colour and print, both of which drive the universe of Helmstedt’s unique hand-painted garments, inspired by the Copenhagen-born designer’s dreams and childhood nostalgia. Statement dresses and two-piece suits resembled pyjama and nightgown silhouettes with a whimsical sensibility, playfully embellished with crockery and tableware.

Cecilie Bahnsen

Since her debut in 2015, Cecilie Bahnsen has become one of Copenhagen’s most celebrated designers, recognised for her architectural volumes and sculptural silhouettes. Each of her collections has offered a contemporary take on femininity through juxtapositions of softness and structure and minimal and maximalist proportions – her AW20 collection is no exception. What resembled billows of clouds floated down the runway in the form of fluttering minidresses constructed in snow white silk organza. Bahnsen offered a visual feast of romantic silhouettes, wedded to neutral hues and monochrome colour palettes with injections of duck-egg blue and creamy chocolate brown. Subtle doses of florals were woven through the collection, alongside plentiful frills, covetable textured knitwear and a foray into tailoring in the shape of form-fitting blazers layered over wisping dresses.

Stine Goya

Copenhagen-based label Stine Goya’s flair for colour offers a vibrant injection to the minimalist palettes embodied by many of the brands on the Scandinavian fashion scene, with hand-painted and -drawn prints infusing unique and quirky details into each garment. For the brand’s AW20 collection, saturated shades of lime green, lavender and hot pink dominated, and a plethora of prints swept the runway, from zebra prints and blown-up polka dots paired with print-clashing tights, to playful suiting, each completed with a pair of platform flip-flops. One of the most covetable pieces of the entire week was a dreamy belted teddy coat in Neapolitan pastels that’s bound to end up in every Scandi fashion girl’s wardrobe.

STAND STUDIO

Stuck in a winter outerwear conundrum? Look no further than STAND STUDIO’s AW20 collection, with options abound for statement styles, from chessboard print faux fur to mock croc leather. Interspersed between overcoats and jackets were shimmering lamé suits and supple leather skirt-and-shirt combinations, infused with a layer of edge in the form of studded belts and cuffs. The collection championed a streak of wildness, with plentiful animal prints from snakeskin mini dresses to tiger-print faux fur. Creative director Nellie Kamras succeeded once again in crafting a collection filled at once with effortlessness and eccentricity.

Ganni

Arguably the most hotly anticipated show of the week was cult brand Ganni. After Copenhagen Fashion Week unveiled its Sustainability Action Plan 2020-2022, Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup, at the helm of the label, renewed their focus on working towards creating a fully sustainable label. A Copenhagen skatepark served as host for Ganni’s forward-thinking AW20 collection, as the brand partnered with 20 female artists to create garments from upcycled materials, including a coat woven from discarded wool samples. Fewer prints made way for moodier colour palettes and grungy undertones, with the occasional flash of golden dark florals and punkish leopard print. Leather and denim pilgrim collars in blown-up proportions added an extra layer of intrigue to pared-back silhouettes. Crochet berets were the accessory du jour, completing slouchy suits, khaki quilted coats and leather two-pieces with a dose of nonchalance.

Words by Ruby McAuliffe

Graphics by Katie Janes

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