On December 2nd, Demna Gvasalia chose to showcase their pre-fall collection for Balenciaga on the sunny streets of Los Angeles. The star-studded crowds were seated along a closed-off street in the incredibly beautiful and wealthy, Windsor Square neighbourhood of LA, surrounded by palm trees, awaiting a collection they were bound to relate to. The collection screams Demna’s ability to not just capture the zeitgeist but also the artifice of it all.
Demna’s first-ever show in Los Angeles does not feel out of place. Balenciaga is right at home with its long history of celebrity clientele and nowhere else in the world better encapsulates the whirlwind of Western celebrity than Hollywood itself. Demna approaches this collection with the inspiration clear as day. They remarked on their want to return to “cinematic shows” with a narrative. The designer spoke of how influenced they were by everyday LA culture—people walking out of the gas station, out of restaurants, on the streets and the result is fascinating.
The collection that is born out of it feels like the undercurrent of LA celeb culture. It is not what it seems like, almost an abject version of a combination of the early 2000s and paparazzi shots that grace our Instagram screens more often than we’d like them to. From the obvious ode to Paris Hilton’s luxe athleisure, Juicy Couture days to the XL trainers that are sure to appeal to the hype-beasts as well as a collection of beautifully structured gowns that encapsulate Hollywood glamour and the cheek in tongue Erewhon totes—the collection is an uncanny look at the fragility of celebrity but also the eternal fascination the public has with it.
The attendees were nothing less than Hollywood royalty. Balenciaga’s newest brand ambassador, Nicole Kidman; long-time Demna muse, Kim Kardashian along with Kendall Jenner, who belongs to a family which represents the epitome of what the collection is about; Brooklyn and Nicola Peltz-Beckham; Ashley Graham was among the few of a long list of celebrities that were granted invites to the front row. Cardi B made a surprise appearance as she walked for Balenciaga along with iconic 80s model Brigitte Nielsen making her return to the runway. The show itself stood for more than the collection alone. It was satire, it was an ode and it was done with heart.
THE COLLECTION-
https://www.instagram.com/p/C0YO-Mrsk_c/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Model: Stella
Look: Lace Thong, Low Waist Tracksuit Pants, Fitted Tracksuit Jacket, Alaska Fur Boots On Heel, Panther Mask Sunglasses, Boot, 9 AM Clutch, 24/7 Tote
The model radiates the era when LA was dotted with palm trees and Juicy Couture. The hyper-pink ensemble fits into the Barbie craze from earlier this year but also the feminist reclamation of the feminine “bimbo” aesthetic.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C0YOtv1MARV/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Models left to right: Khadim, Celeste
Look: Thong, Baggy Sweatpants, Slim Fit Zip-Up Hoodie, Alaska Fur Boots, Panther Mask Sunglasses, 24/7 Tote | Cycling Shorts, Outerwear Shirt, Alaska Fur Boots on Heel, Panther Mask Sunglasses, Le Cagole Tote XL Plus
Though regarded as one of the most glamourous places to be in the world, LA is in stark contrast to other culturally important cities because of its casual, “laid-back” approach to fashion especially in comparison to New York. While at New York fashion weeks the models adopt the stiff-upper-lip version of the walk, with harsher gaits, LA is when the fun, young, “bouncy” walks come out to capture the energy of the city. Balenciaga’s take on the Uggs is their attempt at capturing the many stylishly laid-back celebrity paparazzi shots of them exiting the many cafés across the city.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C0YPRkqM88z/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
https://www.instagram.com/p/C0YPPIPsRJs/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Models from left to right: Simone, Marius
Looks Sports Bra, Foot Leggings, Runner Cat sunglasses, 9 AM Clutch, Rodeo Top Handle | Over The Knee Socks, Scarf Zip-Up Hoodie, Large Shorts, 10XL Sneaker, Pitbull Necklace, Panther Mask Sunglasses, Erewhon Tote
When we think LA, we think hiking, yoga on the beach, an exorbitant green smoothie and fitness influencers. In the words of Tom Wambsgans from Succession, “the ludicrously capacious” 10 XL sneakers are an excellent remark on the “all-natural”, “organic”, and “sustainability” pushing fitness influencer we see in the wild in LA. They sport and encourage lifestyles we all vicariously enjoy but, seldom afford. It is in our face but at the same time not the centre of the look, a distraction from the athletic wear that is touted to be the focal point.
4.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C0YK8ufMu49/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
https://www.instagram.com/p/C0YNCvEs6Po/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Models left to right: Cardi B, Brigitte Nielsen
Looks: Faux Fur Off Shoulder Coat, Bustier Pantabodysuit, Rock Stud Earrings, Diamant Chain Necklace, Diamant Typo Ring | Turtleneck, Low Waist Seamless Pants, Sunset Cuissarde, Rodeo Top Handle
Singer and rapper, Cardi B and 80’s supermodel, Brigitte Nielsen were the star power the runway lacked. Their celebrity almost legitimised the commentary being made by Demna’s work.
5.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C0YK3tcMLWZ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
https://www.instagram.com/p/C0YKYOlME5K/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Models left to right: Krystal, Minttu
Looks: Bustier Knot Dress, Honey Pantaleggings, Palazzo Cat Sunglasses, 9 AM Clutch | High Collar Dress, Honey Pump, Shoe Clutch Knife
Looking at both these exquisitely structured gowns one could not help but theorise what they represented. The black latex creation with the coffee-shaped clutch almost felt a little on the nose about “trashy” celebrity culture and the public’s obsession with it. The beautifully structured white satin gown almost begged for privacy with the high collar but, the outrageous nature of the dress couldn’t help but attract the eyes of everyone present. It’s a dichotomy of what LA is.
6.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C0YNNAOM4qP/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
https://www.instagram.com/p/C0YMwd_syWm/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Models left to right: Cole, Bibi
Looks: Shrunk Coat, Fifty-Fifty Pants, Hotel Mule, Panther Mask Sunglasses, Erewhon Tote, Explorer Sling Pouch | Seamless Tank Top, Midi Skirt, Cropped Cardigan, Stocking Pantaleggings, Pitbull Belt, 9 AM Clutch, Rodeo Top Handle, Palazzo Cat Sunglasses
This part of the collection was reminiscent of old money, Beverly Hills housewives paralleled to a younger generation of the same milieu. The inspiration from 90’s Versace gold embellishments that plagued Rodeo Drive with the clean pencil skirts is distinct from the equally luxe but casual animal print coat paired with Balenciaga bedroom slippers that are generously named mules.
THE ATTENDEES
All attendees were dressed in Balenciaga
Brand Ambassador, Nicole Kidman wears custom Balenciaga Couture.
Muse Kim Kardashian wears the lace Pantaleggings and Erewhon tote.
Musician Teyana Taylor attends in A trailing leather trench coat, thigh-high embellished boots and a casual jersey maxi dress embodying peak LA.
Model Ashley Graham wears a black bodysuit with a black trench. The look is completed with a black leather shoulder bag.
Actress Eva Longoria and model Kendall Jenner both wearing black maxi dresses.
Brooklyn Peltz Beckham wore black cargo pants paired with an oversized hoodie, a staple of Balenciaga with white sneakers. Nicola Peltz Beckham wore a black mini dress paired with black platform pumps.
Model Vittoria Ceretti was dressed in an oversized grey ensemble with an XL double-breasted coat on top. paired with a skirt and black pumps.
Words By Indra Gupta
