Haute Couture continues and we are freaking obsessed. The most eccentric and whimsical looks come to life during Haute Couture week, creating a surrealist dream-like environment that we can dip in and out of when we please. It provides a distraction from our ordinary lives and allows us to live theatrically through our screens. The Parisian expression of fashion that echoes throughout the city in these four spectacular days is inspiring, exhilarating and stimulating.
The jam-packed schedule for the week has come to an end, which means, we have another round-up to share with you.
Mugler
Mugler made an extravagant return with their series of Haute Couture looks on Thursday. Paris was ready to welcome back the iconic fashion house and so were we. Creative director, Casey Cadwallander, had taken a three-year break from the live runways and so showing on Thursday at Haute Couture week was a monumental moment of the season. His first live show since the passing of founder, Thierry Mugler, was a success as he managed to stay true to the brand’s core style and vision. The staging and performance were perfect for a Mugler show. High fashion wrapped in a dark and dramatic atmosphere was suspenseful and exhilarating, a great way to mark their return.
The show freshened up the use of the conventional runway template by wheeling models in on a moving platform. Models got free reign with movement and expression whilst on the platform as well maintaining a unique style of movement during their walk. The wind machine placed at the end of the walk created an editorial style finish. The show captured the surrealist nature and weirdness of Mugler, avoiding anything too ordinary. The freedom of the models’ movements could be enjoyed by front row attendees such as drag sensation, Tayce, and music legend, Kylie Minogue.
The looks gave us new insights and yet, at the same time, classic Mugler. We were obsessing over the playful and sensual use of a-symmetry within the collection. Some designs featured a full leg or arm reveal, while the partner limb was fully-covered. The famous catsuit styles Mugler are well recognised for made appearances, our favourites appeared in red and black lace. Leather looks and full black fits dominated the spectrum of hand crafted ensembles.
Mugler knows how to make aesthetically pleasing designs which show the form of the female body modestly. Form-fitting bodices contrasted with the extenuated styles of trousers and sleeves. The common futuristic and SCI-FY influences Mugler express in their collections was once again evident in their series of Haute Couture looks. We hope Mugler will continue to return, year after year, with more incredible avant-garde designs.
Elie Saab
Saab has outdone himself with the SS23 Haute Couture collection he showcased on Wednesday, in the fashion capital. Chairs were filled with Elie Saab enthusiasts eager to see his latest interpretations of the upcoming seasons trends. The vast room sat in darkness with the clientele and industry professionals perched on the edges of seats. The light emerged, relaxing music flooded the room, then the magic began. The event was a simple layout, which was perfect for the designs to captivate the floor and attention of all present.
All the designs carried a regal feel. The collection which featured 69 runway looks was truly spellbinding. Elie Saab is known for his delicate craftsmanship and attention to detail and he undoubtably continued to create this legacy in his latest collection. The reign of his embellished and sequined designs not only survived, but thrived. Pieces were hand-crafted in creams and light pastel colours, creating an overall airy and feminine feel. Luxurious and lavish, the garments encrusted with pearls and crystals reflected the light in an opulent manner. The elegance of the feminine silhouettes and maximalism constructed a utopian fantasy of moving runway looks. Mermaid gowns, silk opera coats, capes, and gowns with corseted bodices were reoccurring styles for the designer.
Accessorized with over-sized neck bows, exaggerated trains and feathers, the looks were dramatic. Abstract Asian design motifs appeared in a whimsical presence and inspiration taken from foliage, florals and nature was evident throughout many of the looks. Most designs emphasised symmetry with a few exceptions using asymmetrical cuts in a playful manner.
Valentino
The collection which wrapped up Wednesday’s full-on line-up was Valentino. Valentino’s Haute Couture was a show which was highly anticipated, and rightly so. Behind the clothing was a theme to get excited about as, Pierpaolo Piccioli, states he took great influence from the club scene of the 1980s. Where he focuses on inclusivity, the atmospheres of the famous 80s clubs such as ‘The Taboo’ and ‘Studio 54’ were perfect sources of inspiration. Spaces where ‘gender-bending’ and ‘gender-fluidity’ were expressed but hidden behind closed doors, allowed fashion expression to flourish. Piccioli wanted to re-capture this man-made utopia for self-expression in his SS23 Haute Couture line.
Keeping the classic runway set-up to display his garments, however, creative director, Pierpaolo Piccioli, chose to show under the famous Pont Alexandre iii bridge. The collection was a lavish ensemble of pieces. Multiple garments in Valentino pink transcended the runway, which, obviously gained the hype of those spectating. An incredible array of 89 looks expressed the inclusivity and de-construction of gendered dressing which was influencing the collection. Enormous bows and long trains trailed the ground as models strutted past. Opaque tights got their fair share of the spotlight at the show as various patterned and colours emerged down the runway.
Lot’s of slinky, black sheer fits appeared. Intricately cut designs also caught our eyes, which played with sensuality and flirtation. Looks were accessorized with long black sexy gloves which showed the elegance and sophistication of the designs. Dramatic ruffles constructed on multiple pieces of attire were super eye-catching and eccentric. Micro-minis remain on the scene for Valentino’s SS23 and shirts and skinny ties were partnered up with them for a chic fit.
Zuhair Murad
A designer created for those who live and breathe fashion. Not just any fashion… we are speaking about maximalist, eccentric, head-turning style. The designer spoke out on his inspiration behind the collection coming from the French Riviera and glamorous parties of the Circa 1970s. Glamour was undoubtedly prioritised and that is exactly what Zuhair Murad has done in the creation of his 49 looks this season.
The looks were dripping in sparkles and sequins. Natural cut-out shapes featured in bodysuits, blazer jackets and gowns. Loving the sunset colours of the Mediterranean coast, the shades were very prevalent in the set of looks. Gorgeous tangerines, pinks and greens shimmered on the luxurious fabrics used. Silk hooded gowns with floor-length trails traipsed behind the models. Fabrics were elegantly draped across the bodices of the wearers with embellishments adding little hints of charm.
The netted pieces were intricately crafted very natural looking. The silhouettes looked ultra-feminine, as cinched waists revealed cures of the wearer. Very soft and elegant shapes constructed the forms of dresses. Floral and butterfly motifs and shapes appeared in multiple of Zuhair’s designs, which were stunning. All the designs were extremely enchanting and alluring. Zuhair Murad knows exactly how to put together a Haute Couture show.
Words By Erin Wilson
