Set to the rhythm of ‘Girls Just Wanna Have Fun,’ models confidently strutted down the runway, reminiscent of an 80’s disco club. The collection featured a mix of eccentric colors that complemented the dazzling spectacle and playful designs. A diverse range of garments, showcasing Philipp Plein’s commitment to pushing boundaries, made their way down the runway, creating an eccentric fashion showcase.

In this show, women exuded femininity, and men embraced masculinity, all while the vibrant colors and prints fostered a playful and charming atmosphere. Dramatic mini dresses and miniskirts dominated the runway, while graffiti prints and Swarovski-plastered platforms captured everyone’s attention. The roller disco dancers infused the event with a lively, electric, and fun atmosphere.

Cropped tailored jackets, tracksuits, sporty underwear, and biker pants in various colors added a touch of sobriety to the already dynamic and eye-catching collection. The lineup also included rainbow paillette dresses and bedazzled denim pieces, contributingto the disco theme and blending sensuality, playfulness, and boldness.

This collection embodies Philipp Plein’s philosophy and commitment to delivering well-crafted pieces while creating an eccentric universe around his brand. The colours, lighting, and glitter not only created a visually striking show but also conveyed Philipp’s vibrant artistic vision and created an eclectic display of joy.

To top of this high fashion spectacle, Plein Land was graced by Quavo to kick off the night, and Saweetie who performed her hit ‘Best Friend’ to close the show. And we think Saweetie was the perfect choice to celebrate this collection with.

_{Written By Carolina Benjumea}

^{Header Image: Phillip Plein}

The post Phillip Plein Between 80’s Disco And Feminine Allure appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Intergalactic Beauty

The 20s obsession with the beyond has been duly noted, and intergalactic beauty (from cyberpunk to extraterrestrial) has continued to make a huge impact on the runway. Maybe it’s the move away from looking snatched or just our obsession with that lobotomized stare, but light, airy makeup with a focus on ethereal blues, pinks, purples and greens is the simplest way to look out of this world this season. P.S if you have bleached brows you’re already halfway there! Don’t believe us? check out the many twins of Gucci’s MFW runway.

Goth Goddess

Punky, gothy aesthetics have been extremely popular online, and the fashion industry had definitely been drinking the Kool-Aid. Dark lips, spikey or slick hair, and Julia Fox ‘I did it myself’ eyes have been all the rage, and Versace just legitimised it. A sort of Mall Goth aesthetic has risen, with dark beauty looks that lean into deep pinks and purples were extremely popular, as well as just a touch of highlight on the inner corner. Our suggestions: invest in a liquid highlight, a dark lip and good Kohl liner – thank us later.

Bold Berry Lip

It feels as though dark, berry-toned lips were doomed to cheugyness just a second ago, and just as soon they’re back (in a big way). Time to rattle through your old makeup draw for your brownish or (god forbid) Burgandy matte lip. Spotted at Etro, Versace, Diesel, Antonio Marras and Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini, this is absolutely a staple for the upcoming season.

Ethereal Highlight

There are always two camps to a trend, the edgier side and the purer side, this is the purer side. Fairy aesthetics, much like intergalactic aesthetics, have been on the rise for some time. With the switch from hard contouring to strobing, it makes sense that the newest trend to look like a pixie this fall is to blend an iridescent highlight into your upper cheek and around your eye.

Copper locks

Copper hair has had the beauty industry in a complete chokehold for the past year and a half. It was almost 8 months ago now since Kendall Jenner debuted her copper tresses on the catwalk, and we haven’t gotten sick of it yet. Real gingers alongside artificial oranges in shades from ariel to bronze have been extremely popular, as seen at the Marco Rambaldi show.

Industrial Nails

Ama Quashie is the creme de la creme when it comes to nails right now and, in our humble opinion, she has yet to miss. Debuting some metallic, textured nails – a continuation of the chrome trend we saw at New York Fashion Week for Tommy Hilfiger – the biggest nail trend of the season comes in the form of something sparkly enough for the girly girls and edgy enough for the rest.

Old Hollywood

We knew Old Hollywood aesthetics were back when Christin Siriano debuted red lips and Hepburn-inspired buns, but it’s Moschino’s campy ‘inflatables but make it fashion’ SS23 runway that has solidified classic aesthetics as officially back in. Red lips, feline flicks and slicked-back hairstyles that won’t move an inch are all on the cards for those looking to look classy and just a little bit extra this fall.

Body Glitter

This season saw a real uptick in glitter, after a slight slump in favour of rawer aesthetics. Body Glitter was seen most notably at Diesel as models strutted the runway in head-to-toe glitter in different sheens of red, green and silver. If this look seems like a bit too much commitment for you, consider going the Sportmax route, and foregoing a mani completely just to replace it with a sweep of silver glitter on the hands.

Words by Giuliana Zamudio-Lopez

_{Header Image: @Etro}

The post The Hottest Beauty Trends From Milan Fashion Week 2022 appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Versace SS23

Gothic goddess seemed to be the reigning aesthetic at the Versace SS23 show with intense purples, pinks and blacks taking centre stage. The show featured flattering silhouettes and a diverse selection of textures such as leather fringe, lace. The models sported a variety of beauty looks from dark, smokey eye looks to purple lips. Star of The Simple Life and all-round1 socialite Paris Hilton closed the show in a glimmering pink dress with fingerless gloves and a veil – that’s hot.

_{Credit: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Dolce & Gabbana SS23

Kim Kardashian has had a torrid relationship with fashion, some live for her and some want her dead, but this fashion week Kim K has been elevated to muse as she was projected above the runway as the models walked down. Tight dresses, skirts and catsuits in blacks, silver and nude were strutted down the runway with several sheer elements that seemed to be very popular this season. Models wore the classic feline flick that D&G always go for.

_{Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com}

Diesel SS23

Diesel is back with their vaguely sexual blow-up humanoid dolls for another killer runway. Creative director Glenn Martens has made a name for himself as a boundary-pushing artist and this runway was no different. Featuring shredded maxi dresses, trench coats, everyone’s favourite new mini skirt and a ton of denim and leather, this collection has already started making waves online with the likes of Kanye West reposting it. Several models were painted completely in glitter whilst others appeared to have a little blood on them, a general grungy vibe influenced the beauty.

_{Credit: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Cavalli SS23

Models at the Roberto Cavalli show strutted down a glistening black stage wearing odes to old Hollywood. Whilst there was the use of animal print and catsuits, the majority of the collection featured hourglasses silhouettes in the form of shift dresses, silk slips, frilly blouses and geometric cuts.

_{Credit: Isidore Gorunway.com}

Boss SS23

Since the dawn of remote working, the question of what to wear to work has been a daunting one, but Boss’s newest collection has a few suggestions. Baggy trench coats, long blazers, oversized suit trousers and slicked hair were all featured, with a turn-of-the-century Patrick Batemen look appearing to be popular. Naomi Campbell and Future both walked the show, as Boss ambassadors alongside the likes of Kendall Jenner, Hailey Beiber, and Tik Tok star Khaby Lame

_{Credit:Isidore Montag/Gorunway.com}

Moschino SS23

Moschino’s newest collection is camp and glamour in equal measure. Large inflatables and wacky patterns and colours adorned classic silhouettes – this bubbly, retro collection is not one we will forget soon!

^{Credit:Isidore Montag/Gorunway.com}

Prada SS23

Prada newest runway has two main focuses, diversity and grunge as a record number of gender non-conforming models debuted at Prada. Models wore large black eyelashes that shadowed their face as they strutted down the simple catwalk in grey uniform-like dresses and catsuits, brown crumpled dresses, silver blues silk slips, and sheer dresses.

_{Credit: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Tod’s SS23

Tod’s newest collection is a very neutral one. Blacks, whites, browns, blacks and tans were the focal colours at the show as models wore sophisticated trenches, suits, dresses and baggy coats. Carla Bruni and Naomi Campbell closed the show in classic 80s supermodel manor, with drama!

_{Credit: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com}

Gucci SS23

At Gucci, this season’s biggest accessory was the twin. Identical models strutted down the catwalk holding hands in various designs from a classic tailored suit with stocking-inspired trousers to floral dresses with embellished sunglasses. Whilst the collection was diverse, it is clear that there are two features that’ll be very popular this season, and that’s futuristic sunglasses and a good suit.

_{Credit: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

DSquared2 SS23

Dsquared2 collection was very bright and fun, with models sporting clashing patterns and colours and lots of layering. Tailoring was also spotted as certain models sported striped colourful suits that played the line between smart and psychedelic.

Bluemarine SS23

Denim ruled at Bluemaries spring summer collection – and the rest of Milan fashion week… Flowing maxi dresses and tight, distressed denim were all spotted at the show as well as an insane denim cross top that we’re putting it in our wish list as we speak.

Cormio SS23

Cormio’s usual whimsy was personified in the young children that walked alongside models at their Milan fashion week show. Surrounded by books, toys and teddies, models wore colourful, frilly designs as playful jazz score played.

Avavav SS23

One model falling is a faux pas, all of them doing it is a fashion sensation. Models at the Avavav show donned futuristic glasses, furry boots, strapless one-pieces and lots of silver glitters and each took a turn falling on the catwalk.

Words by Giuliana Zamudio-Lopez

_{Graphics Header by Arundhati Das}

The post On Your Feet For The Milan Fashion Week SS23 Highlights appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Fendi

Kim Jones’ striking new collection for Fendi celebrated femininity at its core with the help of a groovy disco soundtrack that reflected the mood of the looks superbly. Through an amalgamation of striking colours and monotone looks, and with each shimmery fabric and flattering cut, each design dominated the catwalk and empowered women every step of the way. It was a party not to be missed!

_{Photo Credit: Filippo Fior}

Del Core

It was florals galore at the Del Core display but that wasn’t all. From dramatic ruffles and
maximalist head pieces to draping trains and head to toe metallics, each design offered a sense
of fluidity and sensuality in line with the inspiration for the collection. Del Core couldn’t have done
much more to make for an extravagant SS22 debut.

_{Photo Credit: Alessandro Lucioni}

Vivetta

With pinks, pastels, playful prints and a spot of ice skating, Vivetta’s digital presentation delivered from start to finish and we were not disappointed. With everything from fluffy sandals to jewel encrusted dresses, the show, titled ‘Moon Girls’, gave us a dreamy moonlit insight into the beautiful 60s inspired pieces the label has created for Spring/Summer.

_{Photo Credit: Courtesy of Vivetta}

Alberta Ferretti

It was all in the details for Alberta Ferretti’s Spring/Summer collection, which presented
contemporary, goddess-esque designs. Crochet and macramé were a prevalent theme running
throughout much of the collection, celebrating the handmade technique which has gained traction
over the past year and is set to be the style of the summer for 2022.

_{Photo Credit: Daniele Oberrauch}

Jil Sander

Showcasing an array of dynamic jacket and trouser sets, the Jil Sander collection radiated power
through boxy silhouettes and statement tailoring. We were teased with colours and prints which
were expertly used to brighten up the collection in the most subtle of ways.

_{Photo Credit: Alessandro Lucioni}

Roberto Cavalli

In a hard-to-miss spectacle of all things wild, Roberto Cavalli served up some major looks that donned head to toe animal print, tiger, cheetah, zebra – you name it! The ultra sexy display boasted floor length robes, cut-out minis and a cape style shirt which flung the face of a lion right into the audiences horizon. In true Cavalli style the collection was daring as ever.

_{Photo Credit: Filippo Fior} 

Max Mara

Defined as a ‘bourgeoisie rebel’, the Max Mara SS22 show presented effortlessly cool two pieces, statement jackets, and elegant dresses. The brands signature set of neutral shades were rampant to begin with, but as the show progressed naturals and nudes were transformed into a sunny hue of oranges and yellows, alongside seaside-inspired stripes. The emphasis was on the bag this season, with a distinctive new style parading down the runway in a variation of colours, sizes and materials.

_{Photo Credit: Alessandro Lucioni}

Emporio Armani

Presenting a fluid collection where both men’s and women’s designs overlapped, Emporio Armani’s Spring/Summer collection exuded that Metropolitan spirit that helped get the brand to where it is today. Successfully catering to the market of the youth, the brand gave us jackets, trousers, dresses and more, with each piece hanging so softly making for the ultimate ready to wear collection.

_{Photo Credit: Filippo Fior} 

Blumarine

Nothing says Noughties quite like the full body explosion of sequins and glitter that we saw on the Blumarine catwalk. Serving us an array of ultra cool, Y2K inspired looks, the SS22 show had low rise denim, studded shades and sheer mesh baby tees, not to mention almost every look boasted a butterfly fluttering down the runway in one way, shape or form, think belts, body chains, earrings and bags. Paris Hilton called and she wants her wardrobe back!

_{Photo Credit: Alessandro Lucioni}

MM6 Maison Margiela

The MM6 Maison Margiela SS22 debut was a rendezvous in celebration of life’s return back to normality. Revealing an extroverted checkerboard print plastered across the likes of denim jackets, trench coats and suits, the collection was not for the faint hearted. Quirky accessories topped off the looks and, keeping in line with the theme, we saw jester style collars and even a pair of yellow gloves resembling the Marigolds we used to wash up our dishes! As the bold and fulfilling show reached its climax there was truly nothing left to give. Checkmate!

_{Photo Credit: Filippo Fior} 

GCDS

Fun and flamboyant was the name of the game for the GCDS exhibit. Fit for an island getaway, an array of wide brim hats, neon bikinis and floral embellished knits were among stars of the show. Platformed heels also had their moment, accessorised with exaggerated prints, sequins aplenty and oversized logos, making for a show stopping stomp around.

_{Photo Credits: GCDS Spring Summer 2022/ gcds.it}

Prada

Prada never disappoints and this season was no different, a simultaneous display of their SS22
collection was shown in both Milan and Shanghai, celebrating the power of technology and
fashion’s ability to transcend borders. The show explored classics, blazers, leather jackets, mini
skirts and a whole lot of black. Though, when we were least expecting it, bursts of neon would
take over the runway. Alongside the classics, there were intricate details like boning, lace up and ribbonlike trains that danced across the catwalk floor.

_{Photo Credit: Courtesy of Prada}

Act No.1

In an artistic masterpiece by Act N°1, we got a taste of structured ball gowns, Rapunzel hair and cloud-like feathers. The collection came alive as models erupted from their outfits into complete new looks. A powdery blue took over the runway and we are certain this is going to be the colour of the summer.

_{Photo Credit: Courtesy of Act No.1}

Versace

From beginning to end Versace SS22 dished out look after look; from cut-outs and sparkles to latex and prints. From dresses to pantsuits, and two piece sets – Versace gave us all. With this latest collection aiming at the Tik Tok generation of now, Versace showed us a revival of vibrance and playfulness. What better way to end the mid-week MFW round up than with Dua Lipa strutting down the runway in a metallic pink number, fit for a queen, ready to close the show in nothing but style.

_{Photo Credit: Alessandro Lucioni}

Words by Ella Citron-Thompkins

_{Header Photo Credit: Fendi, Roberto Cavalli, Blumarine, Versace}

The post Milan Fashion Week Never Disappoints And This Season Is No Different! appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Yesterday we watched Italian fashion designers come together to present their Spring/Summer 2021 collections in day one of Milano Fashion Week Digital. We may be witnessing the events from home, but iconic brands [we’re talking Prada, Moschino, and Plan C] spoilt us with jaw-dropping collections. Today, Day Two of MFWD, the high continued. So, here is all you need to know to get caught up on Milan Fashion Week, the sequel.

LES HOMMES SS21: “The Essence of Contemporary Elegance”

Hybrid pieces sat at the forefront of this latest collection through the “unification of opposites” in seemingly contradictory looks. Creative directors, Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch, fused classic and corporate tailoring and casual sportswear to present a SS21 collection that is designed for every occasion. Their SS21 collection is best characterized by distinctive tailoring, strong silhouettes, combined with informal street style and cutting-edge accessories. Signature tailor-cut blazers, leather jackets, and camel trench coats balance out the contrasting style of biker boots, chained belts, and cargo vests to depict the title of the collection; “contemporary elegance.”

Les Hommes Spring/Summer 2021 from Menswear Youtube Channel

FABIO QUARANTA S/S21

Fabio Quaranta Spring/Summer 2021 from Menswear

The Italian Designer re-invented the traditional catwalk to present his SS21 collection in a utopian, space-age film. The neutral and muted colour palette of beige, yellow and brown presents a wearable and interchangeable aesthetic to the collection; all in all balancing out the archaic atmosphere of the film which incorporates elements of space, air, water, and fire.

Fabio Quaranta Spring/Summer 2021 collection

Quaranta incorporated an array of textures and fabrics to the collection, such as technical tweed and cotton, and to bring depth and durability to the ‘uniform’ motif expressed in the collection. Long trousers, short jackets, pocketed trousers, and vests are all paired with a statement headdress, not

M1992 : Brainwashhh

For their Spring/Summer 2021 collection, M1992 dropped a seven-look collection inspired by the notion of brainwashing, fake news, and the acceptance of manipulation in today’s society. Moving into a virtual society since the Covid-19 hardship, this season we have seen the ‘waist-up dress code’ take centre stage when styling ourselves for online skype meetings. Playing on this, their latest collection favors statement print shirts and daring jewellery that pushes boundaries. With a distinct colour palette of neon green, the collection is embellished with images of brains and washing machines to bring their ethos and brand culture to life. Ultimately highlighting their profound concern; that our brains are being washed out.

SUNNEI: Introducing SUNNEI Canva

Sunnei: Sunnei Canva from Menswear Youtube Channel

Since collections have been showcased using digital platforms amid Coronavirus, designers have taken creativity to a whole new level to share their SS21 collections. Sunnei being one. As the first part of the collection to be dropped, Sunnei merged reality with the virtual world to present their signature pieces redesigned in total white. The idea behind ‘blank canvas’ allows each item to be personably customized; encouraging consumers to explore their individual creativity and personal style within the Sunnei brand. Truly being a collection that suits all- the opportunities are endless.

Sunnei: Sunnei Canva SS21 Collection

SERDAR SS21: Men’s Short Film

Serdar SS21 Men’s Collection from Guitar PR & Communication Consultancy Youtube

Serdar sat down and introduced to us his Spring Summer 2021 collection as a part of Milano Fashion Week Digital. Speaking of the collection: “I’m inspired by everything I love. Nature, beauty, art, colours, music, dance, and especially David Bowie.” Blue, green, mint and beige are the core colours of this collection, embellished through hand-made bandanas and necklaces; another core element to this collection. A balance between sports luxe and chic apparel is expressed and allows flexibility through a mix of casual and nightwear looks. Tailored tracksuit sets, loose tee’s and distressed denim bring nonchalance to the line, while a reflective jacket, structured leather and printed silk shirts inject refinement and poise.

Dolce & Gabbana: Spring 2021 Collection

Being the last, but certainly not least, Italian brand to showcase their Spring 2021 menswear collection in day two of MFWD, Dolce & Gabbana paved the way for the future of physical post-COVID-19 designer shows in the first socially distanced, masked up fashion engagement event.

While other designers taking part in MFW complied with the new ‘digital show’ trend, as expected, Dolce and Gabbana pushed the boundaries to express positivity and unity that the fashion industry needs, especially in this era. Simply, D&G felt their show could not be substituted for an online show. The open-air show screamed ‘social distance’ as guests attended the catwalk wearing facemasks as models showcased the new collection, standing one meter apart.

Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2021 Menswear Collection

Distinguished from other Italian labels that took part in Milano Fashion Week Digital, Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana spoke out prior to the event regarding the emotional and physical hardship caused by coronavirus that has inflicted difficulties in presenting their Menswear show. Speaking of the collection, Domenico Dolce said: “I don’t like the ‘digital show’, the fashion show cannot be substituted with a screen display. Because fashion begins with people.” Especially with the essence of this show, the complexity and intracity of the clothes is unquestionably something that needs to be seen and appreciated with the raw eye.

The new collection is inspired by the colours of the Amalfi Coast and the surrounding sea focusing on cerulean, cobalt and light blue tones with neoclassical statutes embellished on the items. Silk sarongs, a rib-knit wetsuit, dressing gowns and Mediterranean style loose-fitting pants and shirts. Striking ceramic Italian patterns elegantly dressed the clothes, while distressed denim and patchwork injected a street, edgy feel. To say one thing, this surely was a collection we were glad to have experienced in the physical world. Patience really was a virtue and it paid off.

Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2021 Menswear Collection from Dolce & Gabbana Youtube Channel

Words by Clare Stephenson

Media from official collections

The post Milano Fashion Week Goes Digital: Everything You Need to Know About Day Two appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Milan greets us half-way through fashion month; an often welcomed sight after New York and London, as the fashion houses stage a delicate blend of commerciality and artisanal fashion. While brands such as Bottega Veneta, Max Mara and Maison Margiela are making minimalism more customary at Milan, we can always rely on Italian extravagance from the maisons.

Here is Voir’s Italian rundown – ‘è una bella vita’, as they say in Italy.

MAISON MARGIELA

Maison Margiela, known to many as the artisanal French fashion house, never fails to pull off a show that plays on deconstruction and avant-garde. And this year was no exception, as creative director John Galliano deconstructed the very concept of marriage. As frills and tulle cascaded over looks that varied from stereotypically bridal blushing plume dresses, femme white suits, to t-shirts embroidered with “Better half-ism” and “They’re two of a kind” – ultimately the message was: be your own ‘better half’. With look three, in particular, verging on a bridal superwoman look with a tulle cape, and Margiela’s logo printed gloves, Galliano created a bride less ‘runaway’, more autonomy.

It’s undoubtedly wedding season in Italy for SS20.

MAX MARA

Max Mara is adored by many a Scandi-style enthusiast for its definitive minimalism. Oddly enough creative director Ian Griffiths explained that this year’s Spring/Summer collection was inspired by Phoebe Waller-Bridge’s Killing Eve (of whom he is a massive fan).

The collection was less of women’s fashion to be the love interest in a spy thriller, more the protagonist of her own. Griffiths explained to Vogue Villanelle would have everything to choose from “car chase to the ball scene”.

The collection began with a sweep of business attire, as suits, trenches and blazers deployed down the runway in Prince of Wales grey checks, and slowly moving into evening attire as soft ruffles and volant-ed trousers blended into the utilitarian wear. While we saw the typical neutral hue of Max Mara, seen in camel, greys and whites, the soft pastel that picked up in speed as the evening wear premiered at the end of the show was a welcomed sight from the fashion house – we know Villanelle loves a pop of colour.

Tie-dyed prints, bohemian-silhouettes, patchwork denim, tasselled leather, turquoise accessories and a butterfly motif slip dress all screamed a ‘Summer of Love.’

ALBERTA FERRETTI

Alberta Ferretti was an added designer this season who felt an impulse for 1970’s fashion. Perhaps imagined under the guise of a brilliantly hot summer in Europe this past year, or inspired by Margot Robbie’s Sharon Tate, the collection was a perfect cascade of the zeitgeist of American fashion under Nixon. It was perhaps a comment by the designer for a similar call to action for unity in an era of Brexit and Trump.

Tie-dyed prints, bohemian-silhouettes, patchwork denim, tasselled leather, turquoise accessories and a butterfly motif slip dress all screamed a ‘Summer of Love.’ While the darkened hues of the evening wear may have seemed out of place in juxtaposition with the rest of the line, it gave the sequence of colour the illusion of an Italian sunset in the deep-heat of summer: pinks, oranges and violets of a departing sun kissing a skyline goodbye, paired with the turquoise greens, black and blues of a glistening Mediterranean Sea.

EMPORIO ARMANI

It seems that it wasn’t only Max Mara that had a preoccupation for pastels this Spring/Summer, as Emporio Armani’s collection led with a foundation of pastel pinks and blues, and muted olives to offset the striking velvet house blue that left audiences in awe. While we can agree that softened hues are no ground-breaking revelation for a SS collection, the metallic motif that ran throughout the show is certainly more thematic and expected of the latter half of the year. As sequined, silver slips concluded the show, and reflective wide-leg suit trousers scattered looks throughout, it’s clear that for this season Armani, much like Monet, dances with how light bounces off different textures.

No. 21

Baby brand, No. 21’s collection according to founder Alessandro Dell’Acqua was a play with sexuality. As the menswear explored non-conformist femininity (a continuing theme in the fashion stratosphere of late), the women’s moved between patterned floral suits to see-through tulle dresses. The collection came as no surprise as the brand itself was founded on an Italian love of the female form, and Dell’Acqua’s admiration for Yves Saint Laurent’s flirtation with eroticism in his work inspires him to this day.

Graphics by Aamir Potrick

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Dolce & Gabbana

“King’s Angels” is the name of such a period and royal collection made by Dolce & Gabbana. Famous names such as Cameron Dallas, Christian Combs and Austin Mahone, walked in a range of slim fitted striped trousers which were under glistening gold-brocaded tailcoats.

The influence of periods and menswear genres expanded as the collection revealed itself on the runway. Ultraviolet, to baby pink to emerald greens were the fitted large-lapel suits; which all came in an embroidered, striped, brocaded style. Some of which in all three. Luxurious embellished slip-ons and jacquard pants were combined with velvet jackets. The Dolce & Gabbana show also saw velvet and silk tracksuits which were layered with mosaic cross-stitches of heraldry.

Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv

Versace

Versace tartan which was dyed in every and any colour available; this was sliced into long and short fringed-edge strips on male coats, and used in kilts and thigh-highs for the women as well as splashed in vibrant red and blue on suiting. Teamed with the tartan was inspiration for the Animalia as there was sufficiently much tiger, leopard and zebra spread across the whole collection for both male and female from the Versace archives. Versace Casa – the everything but plain home collection was the largest source of influence for this outstanding A/W collection. Hooded sweaters for both men and women, panels printed and edged with fringing.

Photo: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv

Moschino

Glossy black patent textures automatically gave a high degree of kink and S&M to this A/W collection. Although text and words were often used to avoid an X rating and make it sellable. Much lace was used to define the back of a tailored coat; the blurred faces referencing Carlo Mollino. Much underwear was placed over suiting and short sleeve leisure that is influenced by Jean-Paul Gautier. Taking out the fetish and kinky attire, you’re left with many evening dresses, curb-appeal coats, and a black version of last year’s pink p***y hat. Closing the runway show was Season 7 Rupaul’s Drag Race Winner Violet Chachki in a dubbed “tandem tux”. The jacket tails twisted like a partial strip between a couple who were otherwise shirtless, although in such a way that breasts proved irrelevant.

Photo: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv

Palm Angels

Palm Angels models hid behind balaclavas growing nails and spikes, the clique marched around the showroom which was lit up by lasers revealing the classic tartan. Influenced by Grant Wood, the famous painting of an elderly rural couple was used as a print on shirts, trouser, skirts or big on dresses. This design was brave as a pair of jeans in which their faces wrapped around the models legs. Yet the rest of the collection got its cutting-edge style from mixing, matching and conflicting tartans.

Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv

Fendi

The runway was set as a long luggage carousel in an airport style set in front of a departures board which listed the next flights from FND; travelling to London, Zurich and Qatar. As the carousel transported a mix of vintage Fendi luggage and Fendi-stickered boxes and the occasional fur-clad Fendi baby pram. This collection was filled with logo fur bombers, clear transparent macs and umbrella hats were all covered in the Fendi F. Diagonal lines of browns and creams covered leather track jackets, raincoats, and fluffy fur coats that came worn over corduroys and big technical sneakers. Many of the Logocentric exterior pieces such as some of the fur bombers are reversible and have an inside which is less branded.

Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv

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Sparkle & Shine

It seems that glitter is a look for any season as it’s staying put for spring/summer next year. Glitter lids dominated the Topshop show, created by make-up artist Lynsey Alexander, the party scene of Soho inspired the electrified look. Some statement glitter lashes were hard to miss at Ryan Lo created by Isamaya Ffrench. Other looks included glistening gems at Jeremy Scott and Dries Van Noten.

Graphic Eyeliner

The eyeliner looks this year were made for the bold and the daring of us. Thick looks were sported at House of Holland, Fendi, Matty Bovan and Versus Versace created by Charlotte Tilbury, whose inspiration was the ever iconic Amy Winehouse for her thick, punky eyeliner style. More subtle looks were seen at Rochas and Eudon Choi created by Adam De Cruz.

Subtle Definition

Less is more is becoming more and more desirable at fashion weeks, with contour it seems, a dying trend! A dewy look at Bottega Veneta, Emilia Wickstead, Phillip Lim, Victoria Beckham and Issey Miyake, whose look was created by Alex Box. Isabel Marant went for a more softer, brushed brow approach. Pat McGrath created the look for Valentino by applying blush to the edge of the lids and bringing it down to the top of the cheeks for a really fresh and playful look.

Short Liberation

The androgynous short look was in abundance at many shows this year, making a real statement with Fendi’s clip in dyed fringes that just further emphasised the edgy look. Gigi Hadid makes another appearance here with her pixie cut for Moschino. Thom Browne gave us a short slick back with a difference, created by hair stylist Eugene Souleiman. A choppy look at Giorgio Armani created a contemporary 60’s look.

Held Into place

Hair accessories are going to be a big part of S/S ’18, with simple hairstyles easily jazzed up with a good hair piece. Headbands and scarves were seen at Anya Hindmarsh, Miu Miu, Molly Goddard and Temperely. Dolce & Gabbana accessorised hair with large clip in flowers that just scream spring/summer vibes. Hair clips made an appearance like never before with Simone Rocha and Versace beautifully demonstrating the subtle accessory. Guido Palau who created Versace’s look said that the garments were so detailed that they didn’t want to take away from that.

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There was something for everyone who is into Italian style. We saw colour tones, clashing patterns and clean cut suits that oozed Italian sophistication at Giorgio Armani.

Christian Pellizzati’s show gave us a glimpse into the historic city of Venice with the city’s lion symbol gracing some of the garments. His collection spoke romance and reflected a classical Italian lifestyle.

Philipp Plein whose 1950’s rebellious style collection brought a street style essence with nods to biker culture embellishments, tight leather and ripped denim.

Later in the week Palm Angels brought a raw urban contemporary vibe which added a refreshing layer to the mix with metallic bodysuits and repeat print tracksuits.

A 90’s revival from Versace showed us that the brands signature garden of Palazzo Versace print is a long way from dying out. The fashion house also treated us to a look at their vintage logo, a show that reflected on the past yet, paying homage to Gianni Versace as this year marked the 20th anniversary of his death.

Check out some more of our picks from Milan Men’s Fashion Week…

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