Maria Grazia Chiuri has had a long-standing partnership with Chanakya, a Mumbai-based atelier and home of the Chanakya School of Craft. The non-profit school for women was founded in 2017 and states its mission is to “provide women from low income communities with high-quality education in hand embroidery, enabling them to maximize their potential and enhance their lives.” With such an important message behind it, it is obvious why fashion’s number one feminist Maria Grazia Chiuri would want to work alongside this organisation. 

Dior has collaborated with Chanakya multiple times in the past. In 2020, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Judy Chicago worked with the Chanakya School of Craft to create 22 hand embroidered panels to be featured in their Spring Couture show. This partnership continued in 2021 when Dior worked with artist Eva Jospin for their Autumn/Winter show presented at the Rodin Museum.

The backdrop for this show was a forty-meter gallery that was entirely embroidered by those at Chanakya. However, for the upcoming collection, Chanakya is not limited to the backdrop of the show as some of the actual pieces will feature their embroidery. The collection is also said to include other traditional Indian influences such as sari-inspired pieces and silk dresses. 

_{^{Photo Credit: Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2022 Haute Couture}}  

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s spotlighting of Chanakya has been heavily praised within the media, as many designers utilise India’s embroidery and other garment techniques in their production but don’t advertise this fact. By locating the show in Mumbai, Chiuri is centring Indian artistry at the core of this collection, she took to Instagram to share:

“^{I have worked with the Chanakya Atelier for over 20 years, developing a close friendship and working relationship with its directors and founders Nehal and Karishma.
 
The relationship with Karishma, Nehal and all the artisans in their ateliers in Mumbai has been fundamental for my personal and professional growth. 
 
It was through this relationship with Chanakya that I was able to learn so much about the artisanal embroidery techniques, which are still found in each and every Indian region, and the unique ability of the Chanakya Atelier to put them in dialogue with the fashion industry. 
 
I personally wanted to celebrate and showcase the incredible knowledge India offers to the international world of fashion in the field of embroidery, the mastery of the artisans who continue to work on this craft, and the commitment of Chanakya’s founders to preserving India’s history and culture, portrayed by each embroidery technique.} “

This post highlighted something else that is at the core of this show, community, but more specifically a community of women. We all know that Chiuri is a proud feminist and that she injects this into her work. In fact, her first ever show for Dior in 2016 saw the iconic “We should all be feminists” t-shirt take to the runway, setting gender-equality at the centre of her vision from the very beginning. With this in mind, it is not surprising that Chiuri wants to take this opportunity to spotlight and celebrate the Chanakya’s community of women and the positive work that the non-profit does. Chiuri shared on Instagram:

“^{The opening of the Chanakya School of Craft in 2016 consolidated our mutual commitment to women’s emancipation. Karishma created a place for women to learn how to embroider, a place of exchange, of study and of emancipation. 
 
I was so touched to meet the women at the school and to hear first-hand how the school has impacted their lives and helped them on their journey to personal and professional independence.  
 
It is for these many reasons that I am so proud, so emotional, and so incredibly happy that I will be joining my dear friends in Mumbai and that the @dior Fall 2023 show will take place there. 
I just can’t wait.}”

This show is set to be much more than a celebration of artistry, it is also a celebration of the community behind it, and we cannot wait to see it.

_{Words by: Amelia Gregory}

^{Header Image: Dior Couture Autumn/Winter 2021-2022}

The post Why Dior’s ‘Gateway of India’ Show is Putting Women Artisans at The Forefront of Haute Couture. appeared first on Voir Fashion.

‘From the New Look to the New Era’

Dior’s signature silhouettes – Maison Dior will always hold a special place in the French capital. It is here that the ‘New Look’ was born, a set of romantic, hyperfeminine- fin de siècle- silhouettes that evoke the clothes worn by Christian Dior’s mother. The development of structured heavy-wear fabrics led to a particular post-war fashion period for women. 

Since becoming Dior’s first female creative director in 2016, Maria Grazia Chiuri has continuously pushed the sartorial envelope for the House, best known for its nip-waist accentuated busts. Chiuri has now unveiled a fresh ready-to-wear collection that reflects on the conditioning of women throughout history.

This creative director is bringing Dior’s New Look into ‘The Next Era- Chiuri made a point of only hiring female photographers for this campaign. The AW22/23 ready-to-wear campaign features portraits of women amidst a dramatic red backdrop.

Chiuri’s collections are situated on the cusp of Dior’s history. The garments and accessories take inspiration from women’s fashion past and present- pieces that blend the classic Dior aesthetics with a modern flair. 

This show’s title comes from Mariella Bettineschi, in which the Italian artist showcased large-scale portraits of women in paintings dating from the 16th to the 19th century.

Embracing Bettineshi’s male gaze reversal, the ardent feminist Chiuri has utilized Dior’s antique aesthetic as a reminder of the truth about women’s struggle throughout history, and the modernisation of the classic Dior silhouette featured on this year’s runway signifies the milestones made in women’s suffrage history. 

Models América González, Maryel Uchida, Steinberg, and Philyne Mercedes are featured in the campaign, styled by Elin Svahn.

^{Images taken from DIOR, Photography by Brigitte Niedermair}

The cut, stark eyes that face the camera symbolise the questioning of the conditions that have condemned women past and present. The gaze is reversed to suggest a different interpretation of art history. Through the artistic arrangement, materials, and silhouettes, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s concepts come to life through Niedermair’s photography. Chiuri reconstructs the relationship between body and garment in a performative manner.

^{Images taken from DIOR, Photography by Brigitte Niedermair}

Dior’s iconic Bar jacket was reimagined in structure and tech innovation, regulating the body’s temperature and warming or cooling it as needed. An illuminated criss-cross bodysuit also followed, which controlled its wearer’s body temperature.

The iconic Roger Vivier for Dior pump was reimagined in Fall/Winter 2022, using technical fabric instead of leather. Several items, such as belts and corsets, were used, giving everyday wear a futuristic and versatile twist.

^{Images taken from DIOR, Photography by Brigitte Niedermair}

A collection of skirts and dresses exhibited Chirui’s recognizable touch from a new perspective. An elevated approach was achieved by reinventing pleated skirts like the Grisaille from men’s clothing; technical knitwear featured embroidery on waterproof materials, gloves, Moto jackets, and bright stockings reminiscent of biker accessories were paired with gowns.

^{Images taken from DIOR, Photography by Brigitte Niedermair}

As a nod to Chiuri’s rebellious yet respectful nature, she used a print from a backdrop of a portrait of Christian Dior to create a new print, seen on an oversized coat with couture gloves.

Words By Chanelle Jassim

^{Header Image: DIOR, Photography by Brigitte Niedermair}

The post An Ode to Every Woman – Dior’s Next Era appeared first on Voir Fashion.

_{Photo Credit: Dior}

For fans of Taylor-Joy, this partnership will come as no surprise since Anya has sported several designs and creations courtesy of the Dior House during her recent red carpet and award show appearances. One of her most memorable looks was from her Critics Choice appearance, with Dior branding Anya as ‘the epitome of modern elegance’ as she wore a purple draped macramé-detailed tulle gown from the SS20 Collection.

So far, the designs presented by Anya have showcased the creations of Women’s Creative Director, Maria Grazia Chiuri. This collaboration will continue throughout the partnership, and will also see Anya work with Creative and Image Director of Makeup, Peter Philips. 

This partnership will bring us an exciting string of designs and creations, whilst celebrating Dior’s iconic culture. For Anya, being Brand Ambassador for one of the best fashion houses in the world proves she is a force to be reckoned with on and off-screen, and we can’t wait to see the next Dior and Anya creation brought to life. 

Words by Nadia Clasper

_{Photo Credit: Dior}

The post Anya Taylor-Joy Becomes New Global Ambassador For Dior appeared first on Voir Fashion.