Moments

Expected fashion icons such as Anna Wintour are of course in attendance at the shows, as well as special celebrity guests. So far we have seen Doja Cat embroidered head-to-toe in crystals and Kylie Jenner in a fierce faux fur. Doja was glistening at every angle as she showed her allegiance with Schiaparelli. A moment constructed of 30,000 Swarovski crystals and red body paint, the surrealist beauty of the look was undeniably iconic.

Kylie Jenner also gave us all a moment to discuss in her Haute Couture Schiaparelli. The lion head which was sculpted from foam, silk faux fur and wool, will definitely be going down in fashion history.

Schiaparelli

A fierce show was put on by the legendary French house, Schiaparelli. No surprise, Schiaparelli’s show has given us the biggest moment of the Haute Couture Week… so far. In the early days of the brand’s legacy, controversial and surrealist designs pushed fashion attitudes to develop and modernise. Daniel Roseberry, creative director of the Haute Couture house took this in his stride and got the crowds wild with his fake taxidermy pieces.

Shining a light on the controversial use of fur in the fashion industry, he certainly made a talking piece in the media with his ensemble of wild animals going down the runway. Not only did spectators see the incredibly high fashion lion dress on model Irina Shayk, but also on front row attendee, Kylie Jenner. A moment which has already gone viral on various platforms, the spectacle got everyone talking about Schiaparelli. However, not in the ways they intended. Controversy arose as animal lovers labelled the brand as ‘promoting poaching and animal cruelty’. As Roseberry defended his faux fashion pieces as ‘celebrations of nature’, PETA stepped in to support the fashion looks and their symbolism.

_{Images Courtesy of Schiaparelli}

The collection, of course, consisted of more than the iconic trio- the lion, the leopard and the wolf. Hyper-feminine silhouettes which were adapted from traditional menswear was a strong theme running throughout the collection. The extremely low v-cut tuxedo and glamorous black gowns were signature Schiaparelli style. Roseberry has managed to effortlessly capture the brand’s elegant and luxurious origins even in the 21st Century.

_{Images Courtesy of Schiaparelli}

Iris Van Herpen

Designer, Iris Van Herpen, envisioned a sensationally touching and proactive display, which was executed magnificently. The SS23 Haute Couture collection, Carte Blanche, was divinely inspired and came to life in collaboration with French creative Julie Gautier. The film was a feminist masterpiece, which tried to shed light on the global strength of women, especially the ongoing resilience of Iranian women. Choosing to show the clothing submerged in deep water was a powerful creative choice which symbolized the external struggles women face in their existence. Water also takes away the voice and ability to hear those consumed under the surface, which is another reference to women’s protest and suffering. The performance was beautifully breath-taking on the surface, however, understanding the meaning behind, transformed the film into a stunningly poignant and touching piece of work.

Known for fluidly constructed designs the Haute Couture collection evolved beautifully from the previous, Meta Morphism, collection. The slow movements of the models brought the clothing to life as it swirled and danced in the motions of the water. The fantastical and SCI-FY nature of the clothing was emphasized in the foreign and unnatural landscape of the film. The beautiful and hyper-feminine styles were captivating as they moved through the water like they belonged, like a mythical and majestic sea creature. The gorgeous organic silk fabrics entangled the dancers, which embraced the restraints and confinements imposed on women. The red corset design worn by Julie Gautier featured red synthetic and real human hair as an emblem of freedom.

_{Images Courtesy of Iris Van Herpen}

Chanel

A Parisian favourite managing to keep on top of the game, ahead of the trends and in the forefronts of our minds. As relevant as they were when they started their sensational journey in the 20th century, Chanel returns every year to showcase their Haute Couture in their home city. The atmosphere of a Chanel show is exclusive and chic. This year for their SS23 Haute Couture, expectations slowly built as soft music began to play. In a circus styled layout, large wooden animal statues were wheeled out. The curiosity blossomed as Camels, elephants and mice all appeared in the form of the overbearing sculptures.

Not was all it seemed for spectators. Grand entrances erupted as one by one, runway models emerged from the wooden sculptures, in true Troy essence. However, these gifts gave us attacks of fashion as opposed to the attack of soldiers. Adhering to the subtle circus themes underlying the collection, the first look to step foot on the runway was suggestive of a ringleader. Kitted in a top-hat and white military parade jacket, the look set the scene for what was to come. Styles incorporated the charming playfulness of circus bowties and majorette silhouettes. This being said, the collection was distinctively Chanel. Classic Chanel styles, black-tipped shoes and tweeds, featured within the SS23 set of looks, importantly reinforcing the roots and heritage of the house. Other classic Chanel distinctions were transformed for the collection to embody the sign of the times. A-line bodices were enriched with tulle ruffles, suit jackets were paired with miniature skirts and styled with bowties and top hats. Embroidered pieces and pearls made their way on to the runway as well, which we were glad to see as they are a symbol of the late designer.

_{Images Courtesy of Chanel}

_{Words By Erin Wilson}

_{Graphic Header Image By Mia Washbrook}

The post Blazing Haute: Feminism, Faux Furs and French Fashion are The Major Moments of Haute Couture Week So Far appeared first on Voir Fashion.

From Virgil Abloh’s figures of speech and tags that are apparent in his designs, to the more subtle tailoring of fashion houses like Dior, Givenchy and Azzedine Alaia, sculpture in fashion reveals the more architectural aspect of fashion, reflects symbolism in garments and gives clothes different meanings.

There are instances where fashion goes beyond the department stores and shows, and becomes wearable art and although sculptural fashion isn’t always worn everyday there are some more wearable styles that are appearing in recent fashion season’s today. For example, the sculptural designs of Demna Gvsalia’s Balenciaga.

Masks

A symbol of an anonymity, a known trope of Margiela along with the iconic tabi ‘hoof’ shoe.

Whether it be for protection, entertainment or even religious ritual the mask is just as theatrical as it is used for disguise.

The enigmatic face covering has inspired designers and artists like Alexander McQueen, Raf Simons and Kanye West.

£ 65

ZADIG&VOLTAIRE Graphic-print cotton face covering

Read article Shop

£ 370

AREA crystal-embellished face mask

Read article Shop

£ 120

MARINE SERRE Moon-print recycled-polyamide face covering

Read article Shop

Pleats

_{Photo Credit: Iris Van Herpen}

Issey Miyake launched a line in 1988 that featured pleats. The light, wrinkle proof garments proved versatile for everyday wear while also having movement and creating a beautiful fluidity.

This unique technology and way of making garments that have influenced the like of Christopher Kane, Jil Sander and Loewe to name a few.

Iris Van Herpen’s 2021 collection also featured that pleats that incorporated pleating in a way that resembled the gills of a mushroom.

Light fabrics and pleated designs can be a great addition to the summer wardrobe. Here are some options:

£ 390

Issey Miyake Komo Pleated Woven Top

Read article Shop

£ 532

Issey Miyake Pleated Long Vest

Read article Shop

£ 693

Sacai Pleated Mini Skirt

Read article Shop

£ 525

Valentino Pleated Midi Skirt in Red

Read article Shop

£ 1390

Valentino Pleated Midi Skirt in Purple

Read article Shop

Tags/Logos

Virgil Abloh acknowledges architecture with his designs, even his tags on his shoes are intentional.

His quotation marks on his garments reflect a naivety and irony. With so much logomania in clothing today and the constant advertisement of brand identity, the clothes are a refreshing take on streetwear. From his colorations with Nike, to his tenant at Louis Vuitton, everything Abloh imagines is with functionality – a modern functionality.

£ 350

OFF-WHITE C/O VIRGIL ABLOH Low-top Leather Trainers

Read article Shop

£ 830

OFF-WHITE C/O VIRGIL ABLOH Leather Top Handle Bag

Read article Shop

Oversized Coat

This oversized voluminous look is apparent in Vetement designer Demna Gvsalia’s aesthetics. Gvsalia who spent several years working at the Margiela maison often makes reference to this in his oversized proportions.

£ 3105

MAISON MARGIELA Quilted oversized shell coat

Read article Shop

£ 1750

BALENCIAGA Brand-print high-neck shell hooded raincoat

Read article Shop

Words by Hannah Fenelon

The post Is Sculptural Fashion Wearable Fashion? appeared first on Voir Fashion.

As Haute Couture week goes digital for the first time, Dutch Designer Iris Van Herpen has responded with her singular Transmotion Dress and accompanying Film. Recognized for her inventive approach to design which largely utilizes digital methods including 3D printing and laser cutting, it seems the designer is already immersed in the Digital world.

It is safe to say that Van Herpen has produced some artistically driven masterpieces and for Autumn/Winter 2020 we are not let down, despite there being only one dress to admire. Enveloped with conceptual meaning, Transmotion is a true work of art that stands alone.

Van Herpen’s work has that timeless quality with its strong inspiration from nature. Poetically capturing new beginnings, the brand’s site depicts the dress as having “seed – like crystals” and “black branches”. Delicately hand-stitched to the centre of the dress, its intricate linework of branches weaves an organic language of life. Embellished seeds of black Swarovski crystals flourish into pure layers of pleated silk organza. Encasing the upper body, we are reminded of the uncontrollable nature of growth and its relationship to movement and change.

In an interview with Vogue, Van Herpen delves deeper into the meaning of the anatomical design stating how the “core and the beadwork [represent] growth, [which itself contains the idea] of strong, feminine empowerment”. She also shares the reason she chose Game of Thrones star, Carice Van Houten to feature in the film, describing how she was inspired by the “dichotomy between strength and fragility [that is] very prominent in her acting, and it corresponded well with what [she] had in mind”.

Through the juxtaposition of strong black detailing against the fragility of sheer and freeing silk, we can see why Carice Van Houten was the perfect fit. The Transmotion Film captures these details beautifully, with the actress moving delicately amongst beams of light. She is controlled in her movement. There is a sense of strength and stillness.

Iris Van Herpen, Official Youtube Channel

The symmetrical nature of Transmotion is enchanting. Taking inspiration from the work of M. C. Escher, a Dutch artist who challenged the way we perceive, Van Herpen’s Transmotion attracts a double-take. Captivating with detail from every angle, the dress is essentially the same from front to back and top to bottom. In the accompanying Film, altered perception is drawn upon further. Glass panels obscure the natural landscape and Carice Van Houten is illusively doubled against mirrors. Van Herpen’s site shares how this idea of perception has been important “amidst an era when polarising ideologies are heightened”.

Amidst layers of silk organza, we can find a complex array of meaning. Transmotion is a piece of wearable art and a stunning encapsulation of important themes that we hope to see expand into a larger collection. We hope you will join us in celebrating the talent of Iris Van Herpen as both an Artist and Fashion Designer.

Words by Brooke Savino

Graphics by Latisha Fleckenstein

The post Introducing the ‘Transmotion Dress’ for 2020 Fall Couture appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Haute Couture Fashion Week is a chance to take a step back from consumerism and reevaluate the meaning of fashion as an art form, in the context of the impeccable craftsmanship and thousands of hours of work it takes to create an haute couture collection. From aquatic-inspired silhouettes and blooming floral ball gowns to a euphoric farewell extravaganza, take a look at the most breathtaking couture creations to grace the runway in Paris this week.

Iris Van Herpen

Iris Van Herpen Spring Couture 2020

Iris Van Herpen’s scientific fascinations once again served as the focal point for her spring haute couture runway show, her ‘Sensory Seas’ collection intertwining references to deep-sea hydrozoa and the illustrations of 19th-century neuroscientist and pathologist Santiago Ramón y Cajal. The show opened with a black gown whose leather corset was laser-cut to resemble the neural pathways mapped out by the neuroscientist in his illustrations. Later on, Van Herpen sent models down the runway in otherworldly silhouettes that seemed to blend into their skin as they swished around like marine animals in hand-cut glass organza dresses and gowns ornamented with 3D embellishments, with bursts of purple, red and blue running through the collection. An ethereal manifestation of her ability to truly bring her clothes to life.

Christian Dior

Christian Dior Spring Couture 2020

Since her debut at Dior in 2016, Maria Grazia Chiuri, the brand’s first female artistic director in its 73-year history, has triumphantly woven feminist philosophy into the iconic fashion house’s identity through her collections. Her SS20 couture runway show, inspired by the American feminist artist Judy Chicago, continued that legacy through an exploration of the concept of divine femininity. In the garden of Paris’ Musée Rodin, the runway was erected within the dramatic setting of a tented structure entitled ‘The Female Divine’, with richly embroidered tapestries hanging from the ceiling posing the question “What if women ruled the world?” Drawing inspiration from the classical world, the concept of divine femininity and ancient goddesses took shape in liquid gold gowns, gilded power suits with hints of Grecian draping and delicate jacquard shorts veiled beneath diaphanous one-shouldered chiffon. Fleets of Hellenic-inspired gowns populated the runway in metallic colour palettes with swathes of gold fringing, completed with golden headbands and pearl-drop earrings. Classical symbolisms were embedded throughout in the form of tiaras and earrings adorned with golden ears of wheat, a symbol of luck, wealth and prosperity, and peacock feathers embroidered onto an evening gown to symbolise the creative power of women, with the combined effect of reinforcing the show’s powerful message of femininity.

Giambattista Valli

Giambattista Valli Spring Couture 2020

Rather than staging an haute couture show, a fleeting 20-minute exclusive experience, Giambattista Valli opened up his spring collection to the public in an exhibition, inviting visitors to linger over his mastery of eccentric extravagance at the Jeu de Paume on Monday evening. Exaggerated shapes and volumes abounded, with asymmetrical, feathered, fringed and ornate ballgowns skillfully decorated with precious flower embroideries. Influenced by the blooming landscapes of the Amalfi Coast, saturated Mediterranian colour palettes evoked Italian lemon gardens and floral cornucopia, with vibrant sherbety yellows, fuschia frills and blush tulle trains.

Givenchy

Givenchy Couture 2020

Claire Waight Keller wrote a sartorial love letter to nature through her haute couture collection for Givenchy, suitably entitled “Une Lettre d’Amour”, paying homage to her native England’s Sissinghurst Castle Gardens in Kent and Hubert de Givenchy’s Le Clos Fiorentina. What resembled bouquets of blooming pansies, irises and marigolds waltzed down the runway in the form of cloche-shaped skirts and bell-cut silhouettes, with acres of tulle and floor-filling lace, completed with enveloping umbrella headpieces. Adut Akech carried a wisping organza grey blouse paired with white silk pants down the catwalk, while Kaia Gerber was the queen of the orchids in a lace bridal dress adorned with finely embroidered flowers. A glittering rose-gold and silver gown evoked the morning dew delicately cascading onto the model’s shoulders and the sun’s rays transforming into dazzling drop-sequins.

Valentino

Valentino Spring Couture 2020

Inspired by the works of Carl Jung surrounding ideas of dreams and the subconscious, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s spring 2020 Valentino couture show fittingly paid tribute to the Swiss psychoanalyst who coined the term ‘extrovert’. The collection was a maximalist dream, a flamboyant celebration of exaggerated proportions and textures – feathers, fishtails, ruffles, sequins, organza and tulle. Piccioli replicated Valentino’s traditional codes and cuts, but with unexpected twists, injecting the fishtail gown with contemporary elegance in the form of cobalt-blue sequins, cut-out florals and even adding a hint of modern practically with pockets. A series of colour explosions took to the runway, with crimson red ruffles, bubblegum pink ostrich feathers sprouting from waistlines, and acid yellow ball gowns finished with ruffled XXL opera gloves.

Jean-Paul Gaultier

Jean-Paul Gaultier Spring Couture 2020

An all-star lineup of supermodels and celebrities came together at the Theatre du Châtelet to bid a warm farewell to Jean-Paul Gaultier at his 50th-anniversary show, which the iconic designer announced just a few days before would be his haute couture swan song. With 200 plus eclectic looks gracing the catwalk, from corsets and naked bodysuits to his signature breton stripe, and a plethora of ensembles crafted from upcycled fabrics, the show was a truly spectacular culmination of five decades as one of fashion’s greatest visionaries.

Words by Ruby McAuliffe

Graphics by Séverine Denis-Lessard

The post The Best of Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week SS20 appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Yesterday from the Beverly Hilton Hotel in Beverly Hills, The Golden Globe Awards honoured the best of the best in film and American television of 2019, and today we honour the best dressed at number 77 of the annual award show.

Two years on from the all-black dress code of the 2018 awards, showing the industries support and solidarity for the movement, this year’s red carpet was a carnival of vivid block colours, gleaming metallics, and opulent embellishments.

From Winnie Harlow’s understated slinky navy number with waterfalls of black beaded tassels which cascaded down the model’s slender figure and a high leg slit which oozed sexiness to ‘The Politician’ Actress Zoey Deutch’s Vibrant Yellow maxi-flared jumpsuit with the on-trend statement puff-ball sleeves. The amount of fabric was balanced out with a cheekily low plunging neckline which revealed a contrasting blue necklace that is enough to rival The Titanic’s Heart of the ocean (Sorry Kate!). The industry’s elite flexed their frocks in front of the cameras as they sashayed down the prestigious red carpet.

Here are our favourite looks that left us wanting more…

Lucy Boynton: Wearing a Louis Vuitton dress with hair by Jenny Cho and make up by Jo Baker

Zuri Hall: Hair by cosmowithcandi and Kymm’s Creations

Winnie Harlow: Wearing a Laquan Smith dress with Christian Louboutin shoes, Lorraine Schwartz jewellery, make up by Adam Burrell and hair by Alexander Armand

Kristin Cavallari: Wearing a Cristina Ottaviano dress with Stuart Weitzman shoes, Ash K Holm make up and hair by Justine Marjan

Joey King: Wearing an Iris Van Herpen dress with Jimmy Choo shoes, make up by Allan Avendaño and Dimitris hair

Erin Lim: Styled by Roberto Cardenaz with Lark & Berry jewellery, The Brown Sisters hair and make up by María Vargas-Guzman

Priyanka Chopra Jonas: Wearing a Cristina Ottaviano dress with Christian Louboutin shoes and Bulgari jewellery, hair by Christian Wood and Mary Phillips make up

Zoey Deutch: Wearing a Fendi dress with hair by Gregory Russel and Fiona Stiles make up

Scarlett Johanson: Wearing a Vera Wang dress with hair by Jenny Cho and Frankie Boyd make up

Words by Ella Winfield

Graphics by Séverine Denis-Lessard

, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

The post Top 10 Best Dressed at The Golden Globe Awards 2020 appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Iris Van Herpen

Ralph & Russo

Christian Dior

Giambattista Valli

Credit: Vogue

The post Paris Haute Couture Highlights: Day 2 appeared first on Voir Fashion.