From hair and makeup, to skincare, accessories, and nail extensions, when it comes to the notions, trimmings and hand-made embellishments that make up the intricacies of haute couture, attention to detail is irrefutably, vital. When these little elements of beauty are taken advantage of, it’s clear that there’s no better way to elevate when it comes to sophistication. After all, isn’t that what haute couture is defined by? 

This month, a series of beauty trends inevitably made an appearance on the runway. Fendi, Dior and Elie Saab glazed their models’ skin in gloss and glitter, an ethereal take on the glassy skin trend that proves perfect for the summertime. Swiftly followed by the prominence of the classic red lip at Schiaparelli, as well as slick space-buns at Iris Van Herpen and pigmented eyeshadow at Viktor & Rolf, this year’s beauty moments most certainly didn’t disappoint. 

Below, you’ll find all the best beauty moments that are worthy of your attention – whether that be on the catwalk, or the front row. 

Jean Paul Gaultier 

As the latest guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier, Olivier Rousteing, Creative Director of Balmain, honoured the brand’s roots through a series of nostalgic references. When it came to accessories, there were dramatic beaded necklaces, chains, cone-bras, and platforms, making the perfect partner for glass garments and tin-can inspired skirts. 

Models’ wrists were adorned in chunky silver bangles and large pearls, whilst fingertips were topped with extensions reminiscent of silver graters that drew industrial parallels with the classic acrylic manicure. Paired with ears that were laced with piercings, whether they be hanging bucket earrings or industrial bars, Jean Paul Gaultier’s show didn’t shy away from extravagance and exceptional attention to detail. 

Luckily, the show got even more exciting when the attention was shifted from the runway to the side-lines. Attendees such as Kim Kardashian stirred a media frenzy when arriving on the front row, accompanied by daughter North West, in a pinstriped beret, black shades, metallic cuff bracelets and a silver nose ring that connected to the ears before draping across the chest like a necklace. Wearing large chokers and a subtle nude lip, the duo’s all black outfits were brought to life by their accessories. 

Vetements 

Whilst last season, faces were obscured with masks, this season, in Gvasalia’s first physical show for Vetements, there were an array of diverse characters that graced the runway. Whilst of every age, gender, ethnicity and background, their hair most certainly took centre stage, drawing our attention (albeit momentarily) away from fashion and onto the importance of beauty when making a statement. 

Hairstylists Pablo Kuemin and Jody Taylor met with each of the models individually in the lead up to the show to discuss what their hair look would be, making clever references to famous movie stars, distinct street styles and the British punk scene. From neon buzz cuts to liberty spikes, the show told stories of Gvasalia’s earliest experiences with fashion, alluding to distinct childhood memories that, by extension, couldn’t help but make you burst with nostalgia. 

Iris Van Herpen 

Iris Van Herpen’s 15th-anniversary collection at this year’s Paris Haute Couture Week celebrated beauty in all its ethereal glory, centring around the metaverse and the ultimate impact that virtual fashion will have on the way we dress. As a designer whose niche is characterised by the analysis of modern technologies and how they will alter our approach to our attire, there’s no one quite like Iris Van Herpen to carve out a collection where each beauty look is just as transformative and hyperreal as the clothes themselves. 

Created by nail artist Tomoya Nakagawa, the multidimensional collection was complimented by 3D, translucent nails that twisted and turned upon each fingertip, and when it came to makeup, MUA Chiao Li Hsu’s work was just as exciting. The models’ eyes were surrounded with eyeshadow that was reminiscent of gold and silver leaves, whilst bleached eyebrows, the trend that has undoubtedly infiltrated the beauty industry as of late, stood in stark contrast to a natural, dewy base. 

Space buns have been a favourite for years, but stylists Olivier Schawalder and Björn Axén took them to the next level at Iris Van Herpen’s show. With slick, tail-like braids that crept along the scalp and over the models’ faces, each hairstyle was sure to impress, channelling that of a mythological creature that had been elegantly swept across the ocean floor. 

Schiaparelli 

At Schiaparelli’s show, British makeup artist Pat Mcgrath orchestrated beauty looks that struck the perfect balance between drama and sophistication, with contoured cheekbones, red-lips, and winged smoky eyes heightening the effect of Roseberry’s timeless designs. In terms of hair, stylist Guido Palau similarly yet subtly revealed his artistry through simplistic up-dos, often masked by large hats to allow the geometric nature of Roseberry’s collection to bask under the limelight. 

Attendees such as Rina Sawayama wore a black mini dress featuring a gilded brass jewellery harness in the shape of a mouth, whilst Hunter Schafer wore a black mini dress with a corset effect bustier and horn neckline. Rina’s eyes were coated in glitter whilst Hunter’s golden eyeshadow matched her golden surrealist earrings perfectly. 

Viktor & Rolf 

Viktor and Rolf’s show had a distinct 80’s feel that could be seen consistently, whether that be through the clothes, or the makeup. With exaggerated blazers and graphic stripes to captivate your attention, a multicoloured palette of pink, blue, red and even aubergine was gently painted across the models’ eyes, lips, and cheeks to take our admiration that one step further. 

Lashes were either coated in a fluorescent orange or navy, suggesting that coloured mascara is the next trend set to re-emerge. For those who aren’t so into eye makeup, mirrored aviators appeared an ideal alternative. 

Whilst ahead of the curve in terms of makeup, Viktor and Rolf kept it simple when it came to hair. Sleek and glossy, the models’ hair was often brushed back into a coif so that the eye makeup could do the talking. 

Words by Gracie Eastwood

^{Header image: @tomonyan55}

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While the day four Haute Couture shows were the last of the cultivating collections, they were far from least. Designers from Julie de Libran to Fendi treated us to one last day of inspiring collections before we say goodbye to Haute Couture Week for another year.

This time the theme of the looks was an ode to the ancient. From the tunics of Rome to creatures of mythology, day four designers chose to look a thousand years backwards for artistic inspiration.

Fendi

Fendi’s Spring Couture Show saw garments fit for an empress. The Italian Fashion House looked to almighty Ancient Rome for this collection’s inspiration. From silk tunic-style dresses to pieces featuring graphics of emperors. The garments were as scandalous and powerful as the period.

Despite the historical nature of the garments, the show’s setting was surprisingly futuristic. Bright white graphics emulated the shape of a Roman Palace, as models emerged from thick grey smog, adding to the danger and excitement of the show. Those on the front row included Madelaine Petsch, her background starring in thrillers like Riverdale mean she’s no beginner when it comes to all things dark and sultry, making her a perfect witness for the sinful show.

Julie de Libran

French fashion designer Julie De Libran brought an elegant flair to everyday workwear during day four of Haute Couture Week. Her collection sees classic day-to-day pieces like blazers and trenchcoats reimagined with fur trims and glitter. The collection was described by De Libran as ‘comfort but with beauty.

The old-money style garments resemble those worn in the Y2K show Gossip Girl; perfect for the office by day, party by night kind of woman.

Christophe Josse

French designer Josse stuck to his label’s DNA of creating delicate and airy garments with his ‘Villégiature’ collection. The nude collection was a peaceful and light take on the usual loud couture attire. Heavenly shirts with puff silk sleeves and lace gowns made the collection fit for a goddess.

In his video showcase, the designer made the unique decision of featuring just one model: Zuleica Eliana. The stunning Cape Verde model’s elegance and charm was the perfect addition to the angelic collection.

Yuima Nakazato

After the dullness of the past two years, Tokyo born designer Nakazato chose to look to the sky as a vision of bright hope for the inspiration behind his ‘Liminal’ Collection. The collection’s colour palette featured the hues of the sunset in burnt orange and ginger.

The inspiration from the above was confirmed by models in garments of royal blue, red, and orange, perfectly emulating the wings of a parrot.

The designer’s fascination with the mythical and ancient legends was also a large inspiration behind the collection. Garments were showcased in an abandoned church said to be an ode to the Chimera, a four-legged ancient creature.

Yanina Couture

Exploding with colour and vibrancy; Yanina Couture’s electrifying rainbow looks were a show stopping way to end the fabulous week of Haute Couture Shows. The first look to emerge on the white runway was a mini dress with a colossal off the shoulder jacket in every colour conceivable. Each look that followed burst with more creative colour combinations in psychedelic patterns.

While designer Yulia Yanina was the only new addition to the group of high fashion designers able to showcase their looks at Haute Couture Week, she cultivated garments as joy- evoking as any other designer this season; a testament to the hard work and steady craftsmanship that she and her team put into the collection.

_{Photo Credit: Gerasim Kutsarov}

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Jean Paul Gaultier

“A celebration of Gaultier” is how the collection’s designer Glenn Martens chose to describe the wonders of pinstripes, zebra prints, and gothic bridal looks that graced Jean Paul Gaultier’s runway last night. The collection featured unyielding 3D illusion- style black and white gowns which were said to be inspired by the “pure diva goddess” garments Jean Paul Gaultier created in the 1980s.

As the show continued the gowns became more reminiscent of 16th Century gowns fit for a queen. Dresses in royal colours of moss green and purple with enormous ruched skirts were a highlight of the collection. Front row guests of the show like musician Bilal Hassani said they were “in awe of the amazing collection” (and so are we).

Photography: Arnaud Lajeunie

Franck Sorbier

Sorbier’s video showcase began in the dusky setting of an old Parisian backstreet. A male voice mused in French as the scene dissolved to a series of blue textures and hues, inspired by the movement of the ocean.

In a dream-like scene, dancer Adele Borde stood in an ethereal gown, made of feathers, as graphics of water and flowers washed over her. The dress emulates the zestful hues of the sunset as feathers in burnt orange and lemon swung from the dancer’s petite frame.

Furthering the fairytale collection, Sorbier showcased a lime green dress, which evoked memories of magical Tinkerbelle costumes worn by children playing dress-up. The show’s playful spirit was emphasised by the doll-like movement the dancer exhibited. Sorbier’s show ended with a quote from Eleanor Roosevelt: “The future belongs to those who believe in their dreams.” It is safe to say Sorbier’s fantastical collection will be in our dreams tonight.

Photography: Grégoire Vallet

Zuhair Murad

Walking the plank or walking the runway? Zuhair Murad’s pirate-inspired collection ensures you’ll look breathtaking either way. Model’s on the Lebanese designer’s runway sported pirate-style hats and colourful jewels embellished into garments, reminiscent of those found in a pirate’s treasure chest.

When speaking of his inspiration behind the collection, the designer said that pirates represent bravery and confidence, something he believes people need after the turbulence of the past two years.

Photography: Isidore Montag

Valentino

Pier Paolo Piccioli’s ‘Anatomy of Couture’ Collection dissects couture and what it means for our bodies to be in rhythm with the garments we dress them in. The Italian Fashion House showcased floral ball gowns and sheer sequined shirts replicating that of a knight’s armour. Piccioli played with a vast array of materials from velvet to snakeskin to cultivate a collection celebrating the beauty of differences.

In his bid to rewrite the meaning of couture, Piccioli dressed models of all ethnicities, body types, ages, and genders. The collection demonstrates clothing’s ability to perfectly mould to anyone’s body regardless of shape or background.

Guests of the show had to stick to an all-black dress scheme to allow Valentino’s colourful garments to stand out among the crowd. But this wasn’t an issue for bloggers attending the show like Lena Mahfouf who said black was her confident colour anyway

Watch Valentino’s Haute Couture runway here.

Photography: Alessandro Lucioni

Viktor & Rolf

There wasn’t a shoulder insight at Viktor&Rolf’s Spring Couture show. Each model’s upper body was enveloped in gothic-chic garments inspired by old Dracula films. With shoulder pads that towered over the body, the collection stayed faithful to the brand’s ethos of taking an ‘unconventional approach to fashion.’ The eerie garments matched the model’s burgundy lips and talon length nails.

Guests who attended the show like Fashion Expert Zadrian Smith deemed it ‘intense, otherworldly drama’ and we can’t think of a better way to describe a collection straight from a Tim Burton movie.

Watch Viktor & Rolf’s Haute Couture runway here.

Photography: Alessandro Lucioni

Elie Saab

Saab took the bridal chic look to the next level with his princess-inspired Spring Couture Collection. The collection was an ode to the Mediterranean, so gowns in peach and arctic blue were made to represent the colours of the ocean. Some dresses were submerged in glitter, others featured hundreds of pieces of folded material, creating the enchanting illusion that butterflies had flocked to nestle on model’s skirts.

As the show drew to a close, the lighting dimmed to an intimate amber hue and a show-stopping dress emerged from the curtains. Those on the front row, like Micheal Coste, dashed to snap a picture of the final look: a glorious mermaid-style gown, complete with intricate lace detail, a long veil, and a train that followed the model around the runway.

Photography: Filippo Fior

Rahul Mishra

Indian designer Mishra’s ‘The Enchanted’ collection lives up to its name. The video show was an alluring vision of fantasy from start to finish. Set in an enchanted forest, models Gunjan and Laxmi wore garments bursting with colour and floral patterns. Butterflies rested on the ruched material of the pixie-inspired garments. When talking about the show, Mishra described his collection as a ‘work of fantasy’, distorting the lines between reality and dreams.

Photography courtesy of Rahul Mishra

Words by Olivia Booth

^{Header graphics: Jean Paul Gaultier, Zuhair Murad, Valentino, Elie Saab}

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Stephane Rolland

Classical music sang in the air, raising the audience’s already willing anticipation created by the dimly-lit runway of Stephane Rolland’s 2022 Haute Couture show. The music was slowly exchanged for timeless ballads by Barbara Streisand as the lighting moulded into a clinical white light. Models like Nieves Alvarez drifted into the scene, covered from head to toe in silk garments. Dramatic silhouette dresses in sage and silver were enveloped by flowing capes, representing the heroic and divine feminine energy of Rolland’s collection. The collection’s luxury and dramatic spirit were bolstered by the oversized gemstones nestled on the chest and forearms of models.

Allowing women to feel flair and ease while wearing timeless gowns was the clear inspiration behind Rolland’s Haute Couture SS22 collection- marvellously representing the brand DNA of “combining luxury with modern lifestyle.”

Chanel

Chanel’s Haute SS22 Couture Collection, featuring 20s style relaxed fits, sequin and feather embellished dresses brought Chanel back to its roots as a pioneer of the 1920s fashion revolution.

Chanel’s status as a leader of runway trends remains a century on, as the Parisian fashion house made the daring decision to open their show with a horse for the first time in fashion history. Grace Kelly’s granddaughter, Charlotte Casiraghi, was a vision of elegance as she strode the runway on horseback, sporting an all-black equestrian ensemble to impress eager audience members like Anders Christian Madsen and Margot Robbie.

While the fashion house mixed things up this season, Chanel’s Creative Director Virginie Viard ensured the classic Chanel vision was not lost as the world-renown Chanel tweed skirt-suit featured multiple times in the collection. The suit was displayed in fresh hues of pastel peach and lime, perfect for the summer season.

Alexis Mabille

Peaceful tones of beige and taupe gave model’s on French designer Alexis Mabille’s runway an air of serenity. Gliding along the off-white runway to the sounds of soft french songs was lengthy, flowing dresses and maxi- skirts which added to the relaxing atmosphere of Mabillie’s Couture Collection, named ‘desire’ by the fashion house.

While the collection may appear minimal upon first look, the fine details of lace and silk bows added a touch of intricacy to the collection. An all-black suit with a lace headpiece provided a sombre finish in contrast to the tranquillity of the show before a gleaming Mabille entered the runway to receive his deserved praise from the audience.

Ronald van der Kemp

A work of art is the only way to describe Ronald van der Kemp’s SS22 Haute Couture Collection. The 8-year-old label opened and closed its virtual show with 71-year-old model Pat Cleveland; one of the first African American models to ever break into the fashion industry. Her flair and perky energy was a perfect match for the flamboyant artistic collection created by Dutch designer Van Der Kemp.

Picasso style skirts gave the illusion of stained glass, and flamingo-pink dresses invited a magical fairytale aura to the masterpiece collection. Each piece showcased was impressively handcrafted from recycled material or eco- felt, sticking to the label’s sustainable ethos as they pioneer the change to earth-friendly high fashion.

Alexandre Vauthier

The roaring 20s met the roar of the jungle in Alexandre Vauthier’s SS22 Couture Collection. Sequined gowns with fur trims, leopard print on leopard print, and two-toned fur coats graced the runway adding a modern twist to the current 1920s evening wear trend. The garments were worn by the industry’s top models from Africa Garcia to Effie Steinburg.

The show was set in an open, ballroom-style Parisian location; the perfect surroundings for a collection as luxurious and exuberant as Vauthiers.

Words By Olivia Booth

_{Photo Credit : Alessandro Lucioni}

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Schiaparelli

A chapel-style setting complete with flaunting figures of angels dancing along the ceiling was the perfect precursor to Schiaparelli’s surrealist Spring 2022 Couture Collection. Sticking to the outlandish style that Schiaparelli has been praised for since its establishment in the 1930s, Daniel Rosebury- the designer of the collection- said he looked to galaxies far away for inspiration, even deeming the collection ‘Planet Schiaparelli’. The gold metal heads for handbags and the futuristic spaceship-style earrings were reminiscent of recent Sci-Fi cinema, such as Denis Villeneuve’s Dune.

While the entire show was equally exuberant and eccentric, there was one medusa-style attire that had everyone talking. The outfit looked as though it came straight from a Sci-Fi movie, as it created the illusion that the model was growing luxurious gold tree branches, encrusted in colourful gemstones, from her body.

The futuristic allure of the show wasn’t exclusive to the runway, however. As the show’s front row guest, Kanye West, understood Schiaparelli’s memo of mystery as he hid behind an all-black mask hiding his face entirely.

Dior

Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s current creative director, made the beauty of human creation and connection the message behind her Haute Couture SS22 collection. The hand-embroidered sequined tights, waistcoats and gowns worn by models from Chloe Oh to Rachel Marx were made to represent the teamwork behind the carefully detailed garments.

Dior’s eveningwear collection saw glamorous black ball gowns perfect for a modern princess. But, not only was Dior’s collection fit for royalty, it was witnessed by royalty, as Lady Amelia Windsor and Beatrice Borromeo sat along the front row of Dior’s Haute Couture show beside fashion royalty Cara Delevinge.

Chiuri’s ode to human creation and togetherness didn’t stop at her garments. The models who walked the show were illuminated by the colourful artwork surrounding them in the show’s setting of a reinvented gallery, showcasing works by Madhvi and Manu Parekh. Demonstrating the amazement of human ability and creation in all of its forms.

Azzaro

Opening Azzaro’s live stream show, both male and female models such as America Gonzalez and Jules Baco emerged from a curious outdoor setting where trees were replaced with white bollards and a paved runway slithered between uncut grass.

The mysterious setting complimented designer Olivier Theysken’s mystifying collection, which saw evening wear like suits and gowns reimagined in liquid silver silk and dripping in sequins. The designer admitted his love for all things shiny and his Haute Couture SS22 show was the epitome of this love.

Ulyana Sergeenko

It may be the 2020s, but the 1920s have made a return in Russian designer Ulyana Sergeenko’s Spring 2022 Couture Collection. With flapper dresses dazzling in sequined art-deco and feather embellishments. The collection was copied and pasted from Fitzgerald’s Great Gatsby.

The digital show setting saw models illuminated by a single spotlight against a cherry red catwalk, as the show began with a model blowing a whistle to signify the show’s commencement. Sergeenko ensured a fun and playful start to the year with models peering behind the curtain showcasing sequined headpieces, encapsulating the playful energy of the 1920s.

Words By Olivia Booth

_{Photo Credit : Schiaparelli & Fillipo Fior}

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