Celebrating their heritage is what inspired many designers at Saturday’s London Fashion Week shows. From Columbia to Nigeria, designers took us on a journey back to their roots (as far or close to the show’s London location as that may be).

With odes to the glamour of Bollywood through glittering embellishments or vintage sweaters tipping the hat to Camden in the late 20th century, designers showed us that what we wear is influenced by where we come from.

Nensi Dojaka

No womenswear designer provides females with the freedom to express their bodies like Nensi Dojaka. Breaking the stigma around women wearing revealing garments, Albanian designer Dojaka brought her iconic clothing characterised by sheer material, clean silhouettes, and revealing cut-outs to London Fashion Week.

With the memo that underwear can be outerwear, Dojaka sent slinky dresses and two-piece blazer sets with a provocative twist down the runway- reflecting the daring attitude of the modern woman. The clothing was featured in an array of peachy autumnal hues, perfectly imitating the colours of the season the collection is prepared for.

It wasn’t just the clothing that emphasised Dojaka’s message that any woman can and should be able to reveal their body how they wish, as models at the London show were from a range of backgrounds and had differing body shapes, but looked equally fabulous in the garments, bringing female empowerment and inclusivity to the forefront of the fearless show.

Eudon Choi

The source of your endorphin hit this week? Eudon Choi’s Autumn/ Winter 2022 show, where Korean designer Choi used tonal layers and an extensive colour palette to bring a message of ‘optimism for the future through his riveting collection.

Inspired by director Antonioni’s first coloured film, the show began with monochromatic looks in flaming red hues, before Choi layered multiple tones to produce a colour palette with an ‘aura of fantasy’. The style of the clothing channelled the swinging 60s, as Choi confirmed the trending micro-mini skirt isn’t going anywhere soon. Choi styled the looks with 1960s-esque colourful headbands and short boxy jackets. Playing on all of our emotions; the show was a journey through colour and creation.

Ahluwalia

Wittily named ‘Bollywood to Nollywood’, Ahluwalia first-ever runway show saw a fusion of Nigerian and Indian inspired garments to celebrate designer Priya Ahluwalia’s Nigerian/ Indian heritage.

With glimmering embellishments, clashing textures, and bright colours, the Vogue and I-D approved designer’s garments were an ode to old and new Bollywood/ Nollywood. Some garments were an obvious reference, with fluorescent tees featuring graphics of Bollywood movie posters, while others incorporated colourful Nigerian-style-colourful prints into

contemporary silk two-pieces; representing the brand’s vision of creating a hybrid of the past, present, and future through their designs.

Richard Quinn

From giant boxy dresses with top hats to high-shine dominatrix attire, when it came to Quinns show, it was impossible to predict what would emerge from the wings of the runway next. But his creativity and knack for surprise mean even the most fashion-forward crowd has always been astonished by the outlandish designs of Richard Quinn. Quinn’s innovative and emotive craftsmanship cultivates garments that are unique; each telling its own dramatic story.

Combining classic designs like floral prints with modern styles like oversized silhouettes, Quinn’s show was a true highlight of 2022 London Fashion Week.

Molly Goddard

Revelling in the joy of dressing up, Molly Goddard- a label known for extravagant ballgowns- brought all the frills and froth imaginable this London Fashion Week. Looking to Camden in the 80s for inspiration, Molly paired vintage-style sweaters with puffy skirts, bringing an air of 18th-century opulence to modern dressing. The London based designer’s collection saw mood-boosting colours and uniquely detailed textiles.

After Goddard admitted she wore a dress every day of the pandemic, it comes as no surprise her AW22 collection was more extra than imaginable. Ultra-platform shoes, bright shades, and intrepid gowns were showcased; reflecting the designer’s day-to-day memo that there is no such thing as overdressing.

Labrum

Paying homage to his West African heritage while incorporating the craftsmanship of his London fashion career, designer Dumbaya brought clean in cut suits embellished with floral and leather prints to the London runway.

Deemed the ‘Poetics of Movement’, the collection was yet another reference to the hardships of migration. When speaking about his collection, Dumbaya said moving to another country can ‘feel like your culture is being stripped away, explaining why the designer chose to bring a touch of West African culture to his new London home through abstract embroidery and bright coloured textiles.

Anciela

Dancing to the words of Adriann Ramirez’s poetry; Latin- British models emerged in segregated boxes; bringing human issues to the forefront of Anciela’s digital show. The collection was filled with clothing resembling traditional Columbian attire, including ruffled shoulders, sculptural dresses, and pinstripe suits.

The show was a gesture to Anciela owner Jennifer Drouett’s Columbian home, the set and garments were adorned with flowers to reminisce The Columbian Flower Festival. The show portrayed how the weight of beauty changes in a different environment. The dimmed lighting indicated the struggles of moving countries as a migrant, so did the dark clothing contrasting the happy sunlight yellow-hued garments when the models were at home. Anciela brought sharp tailoring with an important message relevant to the ongoing migrant crisis to London Fashion Week.

Halpern

Keeping it silky, sultry and sleek, Micheal Halpern used brick fringing to cultivate a

collection of charming evening wear garments for the elegant modern woman. Tweed

suits, silk dresses, and outlandish bridal looks all gave the collection a timeless and

classic aura- reminiscent of the wardrobes of old Hollywood actresses like Audrey

The timeless pieces were given a modern twist with shortened hemlines and material

cutouts, bringing old Hollywood to the 2020s.

Words By Olivia Booth

The post Day 2 LFW Shows Celebrate Culture and Couture appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Bold and statement worthy, the volume trend has marked its territory for the upcoming season. Amongst the numerous trends spotted in the Autumn/Winter 2020 collections, the volumized look has most definitely caught our attention. Who can blame us when this trend screams the classic go big or go home!

Voluminous sleeves

It was only a matter of time before voluminous sleeves returned to the forefront, claiming its place yet again as a stylish go-to. In the Autumn/Winter 2020 show, voluminous sleeves made a strong appearance amongst many of the collections. Roksanda’s orange maxi with oversized ruffle sleeves is one of our favourites along with Richard Quinn’s bulbous sleeved dresses which rock that nostalgic 80’s feel. If you dare for more extravagance, Viktor and Rolfe display a sculptural pink dress that is sure to turn some heads. A bulging sleeve is asymmetrically paired with one of contrasting size, offering a playful approach to volume.

Bubble up

As the colder months approach, this trend offers a practical yet stylish option for the upcoming season. The catwalk featured an array of enveloping garments with outerwear and dresses offering a bubble-like protective layer. This was a strong look in J.W. Anderson’s collection consisting of spherical silhouettes inclusively wrapping around the body. At Halpern, a dress of explosive colour engulfs the wearer, leaving only the front of the legs visible. Marine Serre took the inclusive look even further with black puffy outwear that conceals around the head; practicality at its best.

Exaggerate the Hip

The Autumn/Winter shows saw an extreme exaggeration of the hips; Area and Moschino being two of the houses that utilize the look. To say that Area’s jackets and dresses accentuate from the waist would be an understatement. Area has pushed hip volume to the extreme with a bulging heart shape that protrudes from a nipped waist. Moschino similarly presents an array of long-sleeved dresses that encompass an umbrella effect around the hip. Paired with knee-high boots, we love how Moschino has merged the traditional with a modern 2020 twist.

Ruffled Volume and Tulle

When we think of tulle it is almost impossible for the words ‘puffy’ ‘big’ and ‘Molly Goddard’ not to spring to mind. We can always rely on Goddard to present some extravagant tulle pieces on the catwalk and for Autumn/Winter 2020 they are voluminous and bold yet still retain that delicate quality. A red dress consisting of ruffled tulle expands outwards and is layered over a jumper for a more casual look. We love how Goddard has paired a sense of volume and extravagance with a staple jumper. At Louis Vuitton, ruffles can also be seen amongst skirts and dresses, the sheerness of the fabric lending itself to layering. Ruffled skirts and dresses can be paired with a sheer trouser as seen in Louis Vuitton or with a checked trouser from Molly Goddard, creating a subtle layered look that is versatile for every season. Words by Brooke Savino

Graphics by Georgia Walters

The post How Volume Hit the A/W 2020 Catwalk appeared first on Voir Fashion.

With another season of fashion weeks drawing to a close, and despite the somewhat sombre mood that swept the fashion capitals from New York to Paris, the Autumn/Winter 2020 catwalks offered plenty of food for thought on how to get dressed come next autumn, with a wealth of trends unfolding fresh off the runway.

Leather

Leather is a winter wardrobe mainstay season after season, but a plethora of AW20 collections explored new styles and silhouettes. Coach offered a lesson is layering leather, with colour-blocked leather culottes, midi-skirts and button-down shirts worn under pastel cardigans, oversized trench coats and shearling jackets. Hermès horse-jumping-inspired show featured supple leather ensembles in buttery shades, while Gabriela Hearst’s foray into leather came in the form of a caramel-coloured puff-sleeve leather dress.

Fringing

Fringing appeared in generous measures on the catwalks at all four fashion weeks but was particularly prevalent in Milan, where pleats were chopped up into fringe at Prada and Salvatore Ferragamo coated black dresses with golden trimmings, while Boss and Jil Sander sent iterations of silk-fringed evening dresses down their respective runways. At Bottega Veneta, Daniel Lee – arguably the most celebrated designer in the industry today – unveiled myriad shredded designs, with dresses finished with acidic lime green tassels and an updated take on the brand’s coveted woven pouch bag featuring exaggerated fringe.

Capes

The outerwear option du jour, billowing capes were ubiquitous across the four cities, with generously-cut shapes bringing a sense of sartorial drama to the catwalks. Michael Kors championed blanket dressing with an abundance of cashgora cape coats served up in cosy fabrics and warming winter colour palettes, while at JW Anderson knitted capes and layers of tinsel-trimming belled out from the shoulders of dresses.

Checks

The collective infatuation among designers for checks was unfading this season, manifesting itself in abundant iterations of tartan, gingham and heritage checks. In New York, Claudia Li’s translucent vinyl pleated-midi and blazer combination came in punchy pink gingham, while Monse dipped into mismatched tartan with skirts secured by safety pins and worn with punkish lace-up boots. Across the Atlantic at London Fashion Week, Burberry returned to its roots with remixed heritage checks in innovative cuts, and Shrimps gave the print a regal touch in a potent orange, pink and green colourway.

Chocolate Brown

Brown is the new black – at least according to the AW20 runways. Chocolatey shades are solidifying their place in the sartorial stratosphere, firmly entrenching their place in the palette of neutrals that have dominated the catwalks and streets for the past few seasons. Chocolate-coloured outerwear seems to be emerging as an autumn/winter wardrobe essential, tackled with aplomb at Victoria Beckham and Emilia Wickstead, while A.W.A.K.E Mode offered a quilted velvet version with an exaggerated collar. At Jil Sander, a bell-sleeved leather shirt with matching pants was rendered head-to-toe in the shade, while Christopher Kane swathed a pleated bra-dress from the chest down in the sweet hue.

Equestrian Trappings

An affluent array of designers paid homage to equestrian style and turning out bourgeois tailoring this season, with Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s show for Hermès plunging into the brand’s heritage for a show centred entirely around the sport. Elsewhere, Hedi Slimane continued his three-season-running ode to the ‘70s bourgeois French girl at Celine, in the form of equestrian-style knee-high boots, horse-bit belts and gold-chain accessories, this time injected with a bohemian edge, meanwhile Shrimps’ regal-inspired show was populated with tartan Victorian jackets worn with riding pants and silk foulards.

Gothic Glam

A certain darkness hung over the collections at Valentino – where floods of black replaced last season’s explosions of colour – and Anna Sui – whose horror film-inspired collection gave way to burnout velvet and vampire-esque leather – as if to reflect the sombre shadow over fashion week of the Coronavirus crisis and the ongoing conversation around fashion’s negative impact on the environment. Showgoers at Paco Rabanne witnessed a procession of decadent embellishment, ornate tapestry dresses and a play on dress as armour in the form of chain-mail dresses in a collection that explored medieval dress codes. At Rodarte, gothic glam met romanticism in eerily beautiful silhouettes that married dark energy with delicate details from puff sleeves and tiered ruffles to floral-print silks and embroidery.

Iridescence

The runways were equally awash iridescence and sparkling ensembles to lift the winter mood and see us through the party season. Rejina Pyo gave high-sheen glamour an office-attire twist, pairing a pearly puff-shouldered blouse with a sleek wool midi-skirt and knee-high boots. Others presented an inundation of red carpet-appropriate attire and party-ready bedazzled ball gowns – Julien Dossena reinterpreted Paco Rabanne’s signature chain-mail silhouette with a thread of fantastical glamour; Erdem injected a dose of 1920s glam into a silver dress decorated with tiered embroidery; and Halpern wrapped models in shimmering metallics with statement sleeves.

Words by Ruby McAuliffe

Graphics by Katie Janes

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The post AW20 Trend Analysis appeared first on Voir Fashion.

We are now knee-deep in Autumn/winter 2020 ‘fashion month’, and the future of fashion is being laid out before us. But what about the future fashions of the small yet powerful things on the end of our fingers that allow us to express who we are 24/7; also known as our NAILS?

The Blonds

From The Blonds AW20 Collection and nails inspired by this trend

Matt Black base with gold foil. The Blonds Channelled ‘goth turned god’ vibes; for us, this nail look is the perfect mix of good and evil.

Rodarte

From the Rodarte AW20 Collection

Red whimsical flames; a statement and subtle at the same time.

Monse

From the Monse AW20 Collection

Nail Rings. You’ve heard of an earring, you’ve heard of a nose ring, let us introduce to you… the nail ring. Practicality; debateable, but it looks so cool that it’s not up for debate.

Halpern

From the Halpern AW20 Collection

The ‘coffin’ shape makeover. It turns out that this season at Halpern, Length does matter.

Laquan Smith

From the Laquan Smith AW20 Collection

Blank canvas nails. It’s the ‘nude’ for people who just can’t bring themselves to have plain nails. Handy, and we love it!

Words by Ella Winfield

Graphics by Katie Janes

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The post AW20 Nail Trends: Who’s Nailed It So Far? appeared first on Voir Fashion.

An overwhelming divide between two camps swept the Autumn/Winter 19 runways earlier this year, with many of the collections that graced the catwalks falling firmly into one of two sartorial categories: minimalism and maximalism.

For the minimalists, Tory Burch and Céline unveiled a plethora of back-to-basic bourgeois essentials, Alexander Wang featured understated supple leather, while neutral hues dominated at Victoria Beckham and The Row. At the other end of the spectrum, volume, drama, rich colours and embellishment – in other words, a maximalist’s dream – reigned supreme, with no shortage of seasonal sparkle. With December fast approaching and party season on the horizon, look to the runways for the key ingredients to scoring the perfect festive party look – warning, you’ll be spoilt for choice.

High on glamour, the holiday season is as good an excuse as any to load up on sparkle. With the season’s mantra that ‘more is more’, nothing is too extra when it comes to the party pieces to get you noticed. Imitate the high-shine styles found on the AW19 catwalks, with options abound for glittering looks that’ll slide effortlessly into your party season wardrobe. Seek blinding seasonal sparkle at Michael Kors, where matching feather boas offered the perfect accoutrement to plunging purple halter-necks and royal azure cut-out glitter dresses. Make a festive statement in a black and silver sequin mini dress with a giant outlandish bow, as donned by Kaia Gerber on the Saint Laurent runway. Or, if you’re looking for something a little less OTT, pair a silk shirt with high-waisted sequin trousers that’ll work hard to uplift a winter soirée, as seen at Paco Rabanne, or an all-over glitter blouse with ombre flares and chunky silver heels as demonstrated by Halpern. A little black dress is a fail-safe number for the office Christmas do – add a layer of edge and swathe yourself in sequins with a glittering black blazer dress inspired by Saint Laurent.

Catch the light in disco metallics, which held sway at Altuzurra in the form of a golden pleated tier dress. At Gucci, shimmering leopard print midi skirts were paired with lace blouses and emerald green mermaid pleats took form in a balloon-sleeve blouse worn with opulent lace red tights. Speaking of which, tights are the accessory du jour. From fishnets to polka dots and diamantée embellishment, a pair of tights adds the perfect finishing touch to a luxurious party look.

Have a penchant for roaring 20s Gatsby glam? A jewel-encrusted mini dress serves as the perfect +1 to accompany you to an upcoming Christmas party – add diamond tassel earrings for an extra dose of glamour as seen as Paco Rabanne, or black studded accessories at Balmain for a flapper-meets-90s grunge look. Take inspiration from Michael Kors and go tonal with a copper fringe dress, matching heels and a (faux) fur coat for that extra layer of warmth – the perfect pick-me-up for dark winter nights. Black-tie occasion? Plunge into luxurious plumage inspired by Marc Jacobs’ decadent ball gowns. Feather trimmings were equally plentiful, with feather-lined shoes worn with sparkling hot pants and a fur shawl at Saint Laurent, and a feather-hemmed black blazer dress unveiled at Balmain. Alternatively, opt for an evening tuxedo as the go-to alternative to a dress – but not without a dose of opulence in the form of rich, jewel-toned puff sleeves as seen at Alexander McQueen.

For the minimalists, there’s still plenty of inspiration to be had, with an abundance of classic all-black silhouettes to imitate. Whether you’re looking for a glittering ensemble, disco brights or luxe textures, there’s no shortage of options to help you solve your festive party outfit conundrum.

Words by Ruby McAuliffe

Graphics by Katie Janes

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The post ‘Tis The Season: AW19 Party Outfit Inspiration appeared first on Voir Fashion.

We’ve brought you the freshest trends to come out of New York Fashion Week but now it’s London’s turn to shine. LFW brings together some of the most talented designers in the UK and commenced this year on September 13th. In our roundup, Voir has handpicked some of the most exciting and inspiring looks which deserve illumination. From Ashish to Fashion East here are our favourites so far.

Ashish pays homage to home

The Ashish collection was perhaps one of the most highly anticipated LFW shows. The designer’s previous work is represented by gowns saturated with sequins and ornate hand-embellishments. His pieces are iconic for the way they infuse Western silhouettes with Indian fabrics in a way to represent both his cultural backgrounds.

Though his SS20 collection differed from his usual heavy sequin use, it nonetheless did not disappoint, and instead featured kaleidoscopic embroidered fabric adorned with reflective circle mirrors. Rather than using the fabric for its purpose – traditional Indian dresses –Ashish created slips, bomber jackets and draw-string shorts. His mesh of East and West – India and Britain, strikes a chord with Gen Z, the most diverse generation up-to-date.

Fashion East sheers it out

Fashion East gave us an assortment of looks at LFW20. This fashion collective had designers Gareth Wrighton and Yuhan Wang showcasing their experimentations with colour and texture. Wrighton’s emphasis was on bold and grungy looks – knee high socks, tussled hair and layered animal print. Wang however experimented more with sheer fabric, lacey-draped dresses – showcasing “beauty with weirdness” as Wang categorises it.

Emelia Wickstead and exaggerated shapes

Wickstead takes a contemporary spin on classic Victorian-styled dresses in her SS20 collection. Wickstead took elegant, feminine silhouette and pushed in to an extreme. Candy-coloured pink and orange ruched sleeves, bubble-gum purple blouses and a staple baby-pink dress that resembles a cross between cotton-candy and a cloud were sure to turn heads.

Halperns’s glistening gowns

In every shot of Halpern’s SS20 runway, jumbo chandeliers grace the backdrop and sets the scene for the glitzy dresses crafted by Halpern. Liquid gold gowns and pastel-blue sequin encrusted dresses were standouts. Each piece glistened down the runway and reflected enough light to illuminate the audiences’ faces.

Molly Goddard’s taste for tulle

Goddard’s layered tulle skirts and dresses were some of our (and the world’s) favourites.Each piece has a life of its own down the runway – her iconicity stems from the way she celebrates tea-party dresses and smocks in all their puffiness. Her work has been worn by the likes of Rihanna and has even been featured in hit-show Killing Eve. Goddard continues to experiment with frou-frou style and chiffon fabric remains her go-to material to put on show. Each layering of the fabric demonstrates Molly Goddard’s unquestionable talent on the world stage.

Written by Hena Sharma

Graphics by Aamir Potrick

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