LUAR: The Infusion Of Leather And Fur

 The LUAR fashion show for New York Fashion Week 2024, under the creative direction of Raul Lopez, clearly presented a bold narrative with its collection, showcasing a unique interplay of texture, silhouette, and a distinct flare for drama. The clothes combined leather with soft fur, producing a visually and texturally appealing contrast. One of the more eye-catching pieces is a voluminous leather coat with exaggerated shoulders. The coat’s soft fur lapels and cuffs lend a touch of luxury and extravagance. 

 Raul Lopez’s artistry is evident in the meticulous attention to detail and precision with which each piece is constructed. The use of zippers and the tailored fit of the leather garments demonstrate a high level of skill and craftsmanship, implying that each piece is both a fashion statement and a work of art. 

Raul Lopez’s LUAR collection for NYFW 2024 might be interpreted as a celebration of strength and softness past and future, tradition, and rebellion, all woven together into a seamless story that speaks to the adventurous spirit of contemporary fashion. This interplay of contrasts, both in materials and aesthetics, establishes a tone that is likely to be felt throughout the fashion industry, marking LUAR as a brand unafraid to defy traditions and redefine luxury. 

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AREA Collection: Exploring The Interplay Of Eyes, Cut-Outs And Embellishments

At the recent AREA fashion show, designers Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk redefined contemporary glamour with their bold silhouettes and innovative use of embellishments. 

Their collection showcased an unconventional approach to fashion, with each piece telling its own unique narrative through the intricate detailing. One outstanding piece was a dress with a variety of oversized, circular cut-outs, each framed by a shimmering outline that played with the concepts of reveal and conceal. This garment blurred the distinction between clothing and art, creating a compelling visual narrative that was both avant-garde and wearable. 

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Another astonishing piece had a classic white dress that served as a canvas for black and white ‘eye’ embellishments, resulting in a three-dimensional look similar to optical art. The meticulous positioning of each embellishment revealed Fogg and Panszczyk’s attention to detail and commitment to pushing the limits of textile manipulation. The show also featured a suit that defied traditional tailoring with its bold cut-outs and rich, crystalline embellishments. This sculpture demonstrated AREA’s ability to convert traditional forms into modern masterpieces through the use of detail and embellishment. 

Each look in the collection exemplified AREA’s unique blend of high fashion and haute couture techniques, cementing Fogg and Panszczyk’s reputation as fashion industry innovators. The designers’ talent for spectacular presentations and dedication to craftsmanship were visible in every stitch and sequin, making the AREA fashion show a highlight of New York Fashion Week and a glimpse into the future of fashion. 

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Jason Wu: Crinkle Dresses

At the Jason Wu fashion show for New York Fashion Week 2024, a notable highlight was the designer’s innovative take on crinkle dresses, which brought texture and movement to the forefront of his collection. These dresses are a testament to Wu’s attention to detail and his ability to transform fabric into a statement of elegance and sophistication. 

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The first dress in icy mint green featured a delicate crinkled texture that flowed gracefully down the length of the body, creating an ethereal silhouette. The high neckline and cap sleeves added a touch of structure, while the overall shimmer of the fabric captured the light with each step the model took down the runway. 

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A standout moment was the unveiling of a crinkled gold dress, which seemed to pour down the model’s form like liquid metal. The asymmetric shoulder added a modern twist to this otherwise sleek silhouette, resulting in a show-stopping piece that combined glamour with contemporary edge. 

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The collection also included a vibrant yellow crinkled dress, which juxtaposed the crumpled texture of the fabric with a sleek, fitted silhouette. The sheer panel at the neckline added a subtle hint of allure, contrasting with the vibrant, texturized body of the dress. 

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Gabriela Hearst: Infusion Of Gold And Black

During New York Fashion Week, Gabriela Hearst’s fashion show included a striking black and gold motif that flowed throughout the collection, creating a visual narrative of elegance and power. The first image shows a model wearing a sculptural gold satin top with a dramatic, single puff sleeve, paired with elegant black trousers. The contrast between the shiny gold fabric and the matte black produces an intriguing interplay of textures and colours. The top, with its architectural lines and luxurious material, stands out against the fitted simplicity of the trousers, demonstrating Hearst’s ability to strike a balance between grandeur and wearability. 

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A highlight of the show was a full-length golden gown that shimmered down the runway, reflecting light with each movement. The column dress, with its straight strapless neckline and crinkled texture, radiated timeless glamour, yet felt thoroughly modern in its execution. This piece, in particular, encapsulated the show’s theme, with gold serving as a symbol of luxury and celebration. 

Gabriela Hearst’s infusion of black and gold in her collection alluded to a notion of duality, placing the depth of black against the radiant opulence of gold. This combination was more than just a colour story; it was a story of contrasts: the ordinary blended with the extraordinary. 

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Coach: Motif Of Bows

At the recent Coach fashion show, the motif of bows emerged as a charming and consistent theme, woven throughout the collection with a sense of playfulness and nostalgia. 

The bow, a symbol often associated with femininity and whimsy, was woven into the designs in a manner that balanced sweetness with sophistication. The use of bows varied in execution from subtle to pronounced, ensuring each piece maintained a sense of individuality while contributing to the cohesive narrative of the collection. 

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One look featured a delicate black velvet camisole, where the bow served as a focal point, exaggerated in size, and draped across the torso to create a dramatic contrast against the streamlined silhouette of the garment. This design choice highlighted the bow as not just an adornment but as a structural component, redefining the garment’s shape and adding a sculptural quality to the look. 

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Another look showcased the bow in a more understated manner, with a bow-tied waistband on a pair of casual jeans. Here, the bow was a playful nod to traditional denim styling, offering a juxtaposition between the casual, everyday fabric and the traditionally more formal or decorative bow. 

Throughout the Coach show, the bows, whether as a bold statement or a subtle detail, added a touch of the romantic and the vintage to contemporary silhouettes, infusing the collection with a sense of joy and a nod to the past. 

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Carolina Herrera: Flower Power

At the Carolina Herrera fashion show, flowers took centre stage, telling a story of timeless elegance and vibrant femininity. Each garment, adorned with floral patterns, bloomed on the runway, reflecting the brand’s romantic and sophisticated style. 

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One of the dresses featured was a magnificent bloom of pastel peonies on a blush pink canvas. The gown’s voluminous skirt and fitted bodice allowed the floral print to take centre stage. The delicate balance between the grand silhouette and the softness of the floral print encapsulated Carolina Herrera’s signature style, infusing grandeur with grace. 

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Another gown, in deep purple colour, covered with layers of ruffles adorned with lighter floral prints, created a sense of movement and lightness. The choice of a strapless bodice highlighted the neck and shoulders, providing a clean line that contrasted beautifully with the gown’s playful ruffles. 

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The collection also included a yellow dress that draped gently around the body, it possessed a delicate floral pattern that brought a burst of sunshine, demonstrating how a powerful print can elevate a simple silhouette. Throughout the collection, the floral theme celebrated the beauty of nature and embodied the joy and femininity of wearing Carolina Herrera. Each flower-laden piece captured the essence of a life in full bloom. 

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Ludovic de Saint Sernin: Metal Mesh And Crystal Mesh Materiels Grace The Runway

Metal mesh and crystal mesh dominated the Ludovic de Saint Sernin fashion show, demonstrating the designer’s innovative power and exceptional ability of merging textures and shapes. These materials, both flexible and fluid, hugged the body to reveal and conceal.

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One standout piece was a dark red metal mesh dress, which draped over the body. The crystal incrustations added a layer of opulence to the outfit, catching the light and ensuring that the garment was as much a piece of jewellery as it was a piece of clothing. The deep cleavage cut introduced a daring element, perfectly balanced by the intricate detailing and craftsmanship. 

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Another striking item was a halter top made of dark red and black metal mesh. The piece embraces a more raw and edgy approach while retaining the beauty associated with Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s work. The halter neck’s asymmetry and colour contrast resulted in a visually striking piece that challenged typical evening wear concepts. The use of these metallic textiles makes a bold statement in the world of high fashion, displaying Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s ability to produce clothing that is both aesthetically beautiful and also forward-thinking. The metal mesh serves as both a garment and an accessory, sculpting the body in fluid lines and giving a futuristic touch to the collection. 

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Altuzarra Ready To Wear FW Collection – Mix And Match Prints

Altuzarra’s Ready-to-Wear FW Collection made a bold statement on the runway with its masterful mix-and-match print moments, embracing a vibrant narrative of patterns. The juxtaposition of fiery reds and yellows with more subdued earthy tones creates visual tension, showcasing Altuzarra’s print mixing ability. 

One of the looks is a dress consisting of stripes against a flowery explosion, playing with the concepts of order and chaos. The fluidity of the skirt’s print softens the top’s dramatic stripes, resulting in an ensemble that is both a piece of art and a fashion statement. 

Another look is a jumpsuit with a coherent blend of organic and geometric elements. The pattern change does not disrupt the flow of the garment, demonstrating how clashing prints may work together to produce a single, flowing piece that is both dynamic and elegant. 

Although Altuzarra’s collection was generally more casual ready to wear looks, these garments were the highlight of the show. the vibrant exploration of print on print demonstrates the combination of unexpected patterns to create outfits that are both unique and unforgettable. 

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_{Written By Gabriella Neocleous}

The post Highlights From New York Fashion Week appeared first on Voir Fashion.

With another season of fashion weeks drawing to a close, and despite the somewhat sombre mood that swept the fashion capitals from New York to Paris, the Autumn/Winter 2020 catwalks offered plenty of food for thought on how to get dressed come next autumn, with a wealth of trends unfolding fresh off the runway.

Leather

Leather is a winter wardrobe mainstay season after season, but a plethora of AW20 collections explored new styles and silhouettes. Coach offered a lesson is layering leather, with colour-blocked leather culottes, midi-skirts and button-down shirts worn under pastel cardigans, oversized trench coats and shearling jackets. Hermès horse-jumping-inspired show featured supple leather ensembles in buttery shades, while Gabriela Hearst’s foray into leather came in the form of a caramel-coloured puff-sleeve leather dress.

Fringing

Fringing appeared in generous measures on the catwalks at all four fashion weeks but was particularly prevalent in Milan, where pleats were chopped up into fringe at Prada and Salvatore Ferragamo coated black dresses with golden trimmings, while Boss and Jil Sander sent iterations of silk-fringed evening dresses down their respective runways. At Bottega Veneta, Daniel Lee – arguably the most celebrated designer in the industry today – unveiled myriad shredded designs, with dresses finished with acidic lime green tassels and an updated take on the brand’s coveted woven pouch bag featuring exaggerated fringe.

Capes

The outerwear option du jour, billowing capes were ubiquitous across the four cities, with generously-cut shapes bringing a sense of sartorial drama to the catwalks. Michael Kors championed blanket dressing with an abundance of cashgora cape coats served up in cosy fabrics and warming winter colour palettes, while at JW Anderson knitted capes and layers of tinsel-trimming belled out from the shoulders of dresses.

Checks

The collective infatuation among designers for checks was unfading this season, manifesting itself in abundant iterations of tartan, gingham and heritage checks. In New York, Claudia Li’s translucent vinyl pleated-midi and blazer combination came in punchy pink gingham, while Monse dipped into mismatched tartan with skirts secured by safety pins and worn with punkish lace-up boots. Across the Atlantic at London Fashion Week, Burberry returned to its roots with remixed heritage checks in innovative cuts, and Shrimps gave the print a regal touch in a potent orange, pink and green colourway.

Chocolate Brown

Brown is the new black – at least according to the AW20 runways. Chocolatey shades are solidifying their place in the sartorial stratosphere, firmly entrenching their place in the palette of neutrals that have dominated the catwalks and streets for the past few seasons. Chocolate-coloured outerwear seems to be emerging as an autumn/winter wardrobe essential, tackled with aplomb at Victoria Beckham and Emilia Wickstead, while A.W.A.K.E Mode offered a quilted velvet version with an exaggerated collar. At Jil Sander, a bell-sleeved leather shirt with matching pants was rendered head-to-toe in the shade, while Christopher Kane swathed a pleated bra-dress from the chest down in the sweet hue.

Equestrian Trappings

An affluent array of designers paid homage to equestrian style and turning out bourgeois tailoring this season, with Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s show for Hermès plunging into the brand’s heritage for a show centred entirely around the sport. Elsewhere, Hedi Slimane continued his three-season-running ode to the ‘70s bourgeois French girl at Celine, in the form of equestrian-style knee-high boots, horse-bit belts and gold-chain accessories, this time injected with a bohemian edge, meanwhile Shrimps’ regal-inspired show was populated with tartan Victorian jackets worn with riding pants and silk foulards.

Gothic Glam

A certain darkness hung over the collections at Valentino – where floods of black replaced last season’s explosions of colour – and Anna Sui – whose horror film-inspired collection gave way to burnout velvet and vampire-esque leather – as if to reflect the sombre shadow over fashion week of the Coronavirus crisis and the ongoing conversation around fashion’s negative impact on the environment. Showgoers at Paco Rabanne witnessed a procession of decadent embellishment, ornate tapestry dresses and a play on dress as armour in the form of chain-mail dresses in a collection that explored medieval dress codes. At Rodarte, gothic glam met romanticism in eerily beautiful silhouettes that married dark energy with delicate details from puff sleeves and tiered ruffles to floral-print silks and embroidery.

Iridescence

The runways were equally awash iridescence and sparkling ensembles to lift the winter mood and see us through the party season. Rejina Pyo gave high-sheen glamour an office-attire twist, pairing a pearly puff-shouldered blouse with a sleek wool midi-skirt and knee-high boots. Others presented an inundation of red carpet-appropriate attire and party-ready bedazzled ball gowns – Julien Dossena reinterpreted Paco Rabanne’s signature chain-mail silhouette with a thread of fantastical glamour; Erdem injected a dose of 1920s glam into a silver dress decorated with tiered embroidery; and Halpern wrapped models in shimmering metallics with statement sleeves.

Words by Ruby McAuliffe

Graphics by Katie Janes

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The post AW20 Trend Analysis appeared first on Voir Fashion.