Icy winds; crashing waves; perilous terrains: Saint Laurent’s Icelandic setting screams ‘winter’. Fundamentally, Anthony Vaccarello likens the collection to ‘the idea of a girl in a landscape where she doesn’t belong’. Yet the juxtaposition between the wintry backdrop and isolated models speaks to more. Having taken inspiration from his setting, Vaccarello seems to reference our human disposition in the world, the fragile contingency between our power and the power of nature, that despite our boldness, we will always be unmatched by our natural wonders. By pairing such a vast, natural backdrop with their rock-chick, fierce 2021 collection, YSL truly highlight the daring precision woven into their ‘atelier’ and ‘savoir faire’ roots.

Inspired partially by Peaches’ 90s wardrobe and partially by the 60s Parisian parties, the collection is a fascinating merge between minimalist short cuts, and maximalist indulgent accessorising. In the words of Vaccarello: we see ‘the shapes of the ‘60s with the colours of the ‘80s.’ Orienting around contemporary tailoring, we see barely-there silhouettes, short, hemmed skirts layered beneath equal length blazars. There is a thrilling lack of predictability in each look, as we are given low, sweeping necklines coupled with blunt cuffed sleeves and sharp, metal-tipped pointed shoes. The combined effect is a daring, yet effortless, recklessness. A raw mix of texture and colour, a contrast between extravagance and simplicity.

And texture and colour certainly have been ignored, they hold the starring roles in the campaign. Electric blue; rich gold; metallic silver; hot pink; lime green; turquoise; an endless list of colours. An abundance of faux fur; chandelier earrings dripping in diamantes; tweed boucle; the return of the four-leaf clover. Saint Laurent’s winter collection has channelled a rich vibrancy.

Returning to his motive, the idea of a girl where she doesn’t belong, Vaccarello welcomes an uncharacteristic winter wardrobe. Despite the bitter coldness, the relentless biting Icelandic winter, fashion and expression must go on. In true YSL fashion, luxury and abstract have been blended, simplicity and boldness sit together, and – for us – we must fight against the odds of belonging, both metaphorically and aesthetically

Words By Hannah Emery

The post Braving The Cold: Saint Laurent’s Fall 2021 Ready To Wear Collection appeared first on Voir Fashion.

We tend to look at fashion as a reflection of constant change, a stylistic evolution following trends and cultural development. But we forget that this is not always the case, the beauty of fashion sometimes simply relies on its roots, on the history behind certain brands and their designers.

KENZO’s Fall-Winter 2021 collection is the embodiment of this, the demonstration that reimagining and honouring ones’ past can be as exciting and moving away from it.

Current creative director Felipe Oliveira Baptista decided to pay homage to the late founder Kenzo Takada, who passed away last October due to Covid-19 complications, through the latest FW collection. The collection was presented in the format of a live fashion film titled ‘KENZO Always’ and captured the vivid character of the late Paris-based Japanese designer, reminding us of his cross-cultural references, innovative silhouettes and “visionary spirit”.

Baptista had already demonstrated his impressive artistic direction in his first show for KENZO’s FW20, ‘Going Places, by maintaining alive the energetic approach to fashion cherished by Tekada and his designs. Yet he succeeded to surprise us once again with the ‘KENZO Always’ immersive collection and complementary virtual show.

The virtual show directed by Oliver Hadlee Pearch, choreographed by Jordan Robson, and accompanied by Planningtorock’s music was a reflection of Tekada’s freedom through eccentric and convenient fashion.

As explained by the Portuguese designer himself in a recent interview with Vogue, the collection was driven by his will to depict the “movement, comfort and freedom” that clothes can give you, while maintaining the eye-catching style of KENZO. Such as done with its folkloric garments and vibrant colour palette. The oversize choices, the textured materials and their neon colours redimension the essence of this brand, showcasing a series of dynamic looks that remind us of old KENZO shows but adapted to our ‘now’.

A now that relates to the idea of movement and comfort in our current state, to the lockdown and its limiting circumstances. The Kenzo FW21 collection feels almost like a translation of our current times into clothing, presenting a sort of duality that incorporates both Baptista’s time-relevant designs and KENZO’s timeless genes.

Words By Chiara Ferrari

The post KENZO Always – Fall/Winter 2021 Collection appeared first on Voir Fashion.