The designs of De Carvalho emerged from his exploration of museums, fine art, and his own self-discovery. 

The collection by Brian De Carvalho was heavily influenced by his fascination with 18th-century fashion. Carvalho’s interest in macabre influences and styles aids in a collection that explores the various torture methods used in this eclectic period. A classic 18th-century silhouette is always what Carvalho uses, but always with a darker twist- using moments from history such as the Ripper Murders but also drawing inspiration from his own personal life. His designs are walking artworks that play with elements of darkness and despair. 

Struggles for emancipation are a theme prevalent within Carvalho’s collection. In each silhouette, the juxtaposition of freedom and being trapped is omnipresent. Starting with his desired silhouettes, the designer looked into corsets and how restrictive they can be, as well as the lengths women went to look beautiful. Carvalho saw the resemblance between the oppression of women in the 1800s and what queer people go through nowadays. Each garment is carefully made to appear delicate yet imposing, with each piece having to overcome some form of restriction: of course with that in mind, the collection is based entirely on a “false sense of freedom”. 

From an instrument of constriction for the body and representation of minority status for the female gender; to a celebration of the wearer’s figure: In what ways does your new collection reinterpret traditional corsetry?

My pieces have always been about extremes, whether it be extreme silhouette to extreme discomfort. The corset/stay was meant to be a shaping product/piece—an item of clothing to give off the desired silhouette for women back in the 1800s onwards.

Obviously, as society evolves past these beauty ideals and necessities, my pieces serve to create wearable dramatic art! Having elongated horns sticking out the front/top to frame the face or being made from materials that we wouldn’t dare hide or cover up. It’s about being strong, visible, and proud.

The 18th century birthed the neo-classicism movement. Do any of your pieces draw inspiration from this movement? 

I think all of my pieces, in general, have very classical inspiration behind them; I tend to mostly pull either from the 1800s or the 1950’s tiny, cinched waists as opposed to massive, large skirts. I find myself toying with the gentleness of “femininity” and the brutalism of “masculinity”.

I love that your collection relates historical themes to modern-day queer issues, can you elaborate on this

The entire collection is based on a false sense of freedom which I believe, we all in one way or another can relate to, you can obviously see that I took one of my favourite childhood movies (The Matrix Series) as a way to display that, this idea that we are able to be who we are and that we are free to make our own choices, but actually, we have many constraints working against us, whether it be a large draping skirt that allows you to run freely or a cinched corset that restricts your breathing let alone allow any movement to be made.

Of course, Here in London we may not notice it as much, or see it as much but there are thousands of people who aren’t permitted to live their true authentic selves, whether it be our Trans brothers and sisters or anyone else who falls within the spectrum.

We have all heard about the challenges women have faced over the decades but only now are we starting to hear the faint cry of the struggles the queer community face and have faced show up in mainstream media.

What is your brand philosophy?

Our Brand Philosophy is “By Any Means Necessary” and what that means is that we will make a mark no matter what and we will push this message as much as we can, we don’t create these elaborate excessive garments simply because we want to (even though it is very fun) but we do it because attention needs to be brought to these people and their messages. We want to be seen; we want to be heard … like everyone does.

Your garments honour both female and male silhouettes. How would you describe the relationship between the body and your designs? 

I find my pieces are either in constant battle with the human form or beautifully synchronised with it, my garments either repel the human form almost to shape the body into becoming otherworldly, or it caresses the human form to display it, it its most organic form. And I believe we need both. To accept what we are but also explore what we could become.

Can you explain how your reflective hi-vis corset works? Or what materials are involved in making this piece? 

Hhahah the Reflective Serena Corset was a fun idea I randomly had! I was trying to piece together this random string of ideas I had one night, and I was extremely focused on “being seen/visible” but I didn’t want to work on massive silhouettes that would take up the whole room.

Instead, I thought, if I was in a dark room full of people how would I Shine my light elegantly, discreetly calling the attention of everyone around.

Immediately I thought of the nightlife where queer bodies and the outcast are left to roam and shine-free, Then the Reflective Hi-Vis Serena Corset was born. 

However, I guess it’s quite comical that I used a fabric that most fascist/homophobic men (construction workers usually) wear to adorn queer bodies.

I always somehow end up highlighting the opposing forces.

There’s often a sculpture-like approach to your garments; what’s your creative process like?

Ohhh yes! 100%, I have a fine art background- so I wasn’t really taught how to think like a fashion designer, I spent 3 years in university trying to justify that what I was doing was a form of art, and I found myself referencing sculpture a lot.

A lot of the time I think about the shape of the piece before I truly make any further decisions on it. I think about how I want it to sit on the body, how much space I’m wanting to take up, and how it’ll make the person feel, power is always at the heart of what we do.

You mentioned that the juxtaposition between freedom and being trapped is a theme within your new collection, is there a piece that best displays this contrast? 

I think the pieces that easily display this is the Trinity Dress and the Esmeralda Dress, both have my signature corseted bodices (with a new little twist) but then have these exuberant skirts that allow complete freedom of movement, The Trinity however is still extremely heavy so, in theory, you have the space to be free, but you need to find the strength to truly move and become free.

The Esmeralda is completely lightweight and airy, the true emotion of what it means to own who you are and move freely within the space you’ve created for yourself.

Last question, what’s next for Brian De Carvalho?

Well, it’s hard to say, this is the very first time we have ever been able to release or even make a collection, we have always been a one-off/ custom business so it’s very exciting that we are able to grow in this way. I hope this collection allows people to see that we are trying to elevate what we do and truly become the brand we want to be.

Words by Chanelle Jassim

^{Header image courtesy of Brian De Carvalho}

The post Interview with Brian De Carvalho: Capturing the Movement Within the Constrained appeared first on Voir Fashion.

What you see before you is an imagination far beyond anything you’ve scrolled past, visualised in the most captivating form of drag. This visual insanity you see before you is Hungry, known as @isshehungry on Instagram.Through her artistic creations you see an alternate reality: explained on her website as a reality where ‘a human body was forced to adapt to new surroundings’ therefore humanity has adapted a new visual identity. No longer human, but at the same time still holding onto humanity, Hungry creates believable illusions of self titled ‘distorted drag’.

Over 4 years ago Hungry started her journey to the stars, creating a name for herself as an intergalactic individual who expresses herself through various types of performance such as; make up, photography, modelling, stage performance and more. Her talents and imagination surpass many who claim the word individuality as their own, reminding us to not be afraid to express who we are.

She has amassed a large following on social media of people who are captivated by her dramatic and otherworldly creations. Next time you think your blue eyeshadow is too much, be sure to remind yourself that this Berlin-based artist would tell you to go for it. Listening to the ill will of the negatives is something we’re sure Hungry wouldn’t pay attention to. Collaborating with Bjork on her album ‘Utopia’, Hungry is continuing to rise with her talents, creating a successful career from her creativity.

Hungry is a beacon of the strange and unusual but beautiful that this world needs: for all the creative kids out there debating whether to unleash their thoughts onto themselves visually: to start painting a character on their face or to discard gender norms. Hungry gives off an aura of rebellion and excitement: ‘Drag is a megaphone. It’s not only a voice, it’s an echo that will get you heard’. (www.isshehungry.com/interview)

Hungry has reminded us to stay creative, stay individual and stay fierce.

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The post We’re Hungry For Hungry: A Drag Queen From Another World appeared first on Voir Fashion.

The line between fashion and art has officially blurred into oblivion after New York Fashion Week. The most important week in NYC erupted with applause and adoration after the House of Velour took the opening ceremonies to a whole new level.

The spectacular Sasha Velour and her court of queens put on a cabaret composed entirely of LGBTQIA+ individuals. From the heights of glamour to the most minimal, models and queens brought their own unique identity to the runway. Velour has been a loud and proud supporter to the New York community that has shaped her. “My drag was born in a community full of trans women, trans men, and gender non-conforming folks doing drag. That’s the real world of drag, like it or not. I think it’s fabulous and I will fight my entire life to protect and uplift it.” From her monthly cabaret show “Nightgowns” to winning season 9 of RuPaul’s Drag Race, she has strived to create a platform for queens and queers to express themselves.

Sasha wasn’t the only queen strutting her stuff for Fashion Week. The surreal artist Hungry and Patrick Starr both walked in the over-the-top The Blonds show. You couldn’t find two totally different people walking on the same runway. Patrick Starr’s fierce femininity and voluptuous figure couldn’t do Ursula the Sea Witch more justice, while Hungry’s otherworldly makeup and haunting beauty brought us chills. To top it off Dominique T.A.R Jackson absolutely SERVED us Maleficent realness.

The Marco Marco show featured an all-trans cast of models, the first NYFW show to do so.“It became apparent to me that trans and non-binary people’s presence was often overshadowed by cis gay men or cis gay men in drag. I wanted to create a space to celebrate trans bodies.” Marco Marco has taken inspiration from the LGBTQA+ community and featured queer icons such as Sasha Velour and Dominique T.A.R Jackson.

It seemed as though one of the most major fashion queens was missing from the front rows of NYFW. The one and only Violet Chachki was far to busy on tour to grace New York with her presence. She did, however, make a splash at Milan Fashion week at the Marni show in her signature raven hair paired with a sleek green PVC coat. After being a staple of the NYC fashion scene, she’s spread her wings to fashion weeks all over the globe. We’re excited to see where she lands next.

What can we say, it’s an epidemic! The queens and queers are taking over to make the world a more strange and spectacular place. Representation of all walks of life is needed now more than ever, especially in fashion. If NYFW was a taste of what’s to come, we at Voir are ready to be served a full course.

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It is important that we communicate a unique brand of fashion, beauty, trends and lifestyle to you on a regular basis, all we ask is that you share our content, and subscribe to receive even more exciting updates and competitions directly to your inbox.

The post Queens of New York: Fashion Week’s Takeover appeared first on Voir Fashion.