The early collaborations between Kanye and Demna surprisingly trace back to 2015, with Demna aiding the design process of the first YEEZY collection. From their early partnerships, both designers have a shared influenced from streetwear, irony, and anonymity. Most significantly, Kanye and Demna share an obsession with the infamous Martin Margiela. Margiela popularised deconstructed garments, reworked vintage pieces, oversized silhouettes and overall upset the hegemony of Parisian high fashion during the 1990s.

The pairings connection to Margiela is exemplified in Kanye’s DONDA merch (available here https://shop.kanyewest.com/) described as ‘engineered by Balenciaga’. A plain black face mask references the Margiela masks and Balenciaga face coverings seen on Kanye recently, and the anonymity Margiela sought to create. Again, the simple screen-printed, long-sleeve shirts and black hat reading ‘DONDA’ would not be viewed the same way if it was not for the waves of 1990s minimalist fashion. The merch designs are simplistic and have faced criticism online for being overpriced. Possibly the number one thing shared between Kanye West and Demna’s Balenciaga is controversy – remember the £1600 Balenciaga Ikea tote bag?

However, Kanye and Demna have also proved they are both capable of creating impeccable art. Kanye’s albums hold critical acclaim, particularly My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy, 808s & Heartbreak, and Late Registration, not to mention his unwavering support from a cult following. Demna has also proved himself, most recently in Balenciaga’s exquisite return to couture for Fall 2021. 

The DONDA album releases have become stages for Kanye music and inspirations to blend with Demna’s creative vision and designs for Balenciaga. Rarely seen steering away from his own brand YEEZY, Kanye for DONDA has been wearing head-to-toe Balenciaga. Wearing a wild, spiky, and hedgehog-like jacket from Fall/Winter 2020, Kanye played his album for the second time publicly. Also, the last listening party before the album’s release showcased Kim Kardashian, appearing angel-like, in the Balenciaga couture wedding gown.

The primary source of inspiration for DONDA is Kanye’s self-reflection on his mother’s death, with the album opening by repeatedly chanting her name. The album develops out of Kanye’s personal life experiences, specifically those of extremity, as his on-stage events exhibited – funerals, levitation, church services, fire, and finally Kimye’s reenactment of their wedding vows were all included in the performances. Through the abilities of Demna’s creative direction, these moments between a few people onstage can be transformed into dramatic performances and beautiful moments. Whilst Kanye and Demna’s creative collaboration accumulated in DONDA, we think it’s safe to say this is not the end of their partnership.

Words by Caitlin Sahin

The post Kanye West’s New Album, DONDA, Is What Everyone Is Talking About: What Has Balenciaga Got To Do With It? appeared first on Voir Fashion.

_{Photo Credit: Donda Album Art by Kanye West}

Motionless, emotive, and still: Kanye West played snippets of his long-awaited tenth studio album, DONDA, to 42,000 fans in Atlanta – releasing on the 6th August. Dressed in a sheer, beige ski mask (recently a signature of West’s style) and a red, monochromatic YEEZY Gap round jacket and vinyl pants, West participated in what can only be compared to performance art. He did not address the crowd or interact directly with the music – he stood still or dropped to his knees or solemnly paced. Though impending divorce, Kanye’s ex-wife Kim Kardashian attended in support, matching the rapper in an all-red Rick Owen’s jumpsuit.

The DONDA-era aesthetic seems to return to 2016/2017 Kanye: oversized puffy jackets, with baggy jeans, and layered hoodies. While Kanye’s streetwear includes bold colours, the DONDA merch (exclusively available at the listening party but available on reselling sites) is earth-toned and a classic long-sleeved shirt, the typical silhouette of Kanye’s album merch. In the centre is the Mercedes-Benz logo (the namesake of the Atlanta stadium) and on the back is a childhood image of West’s late mother whom the album is named after. 

Kanye consistently integrates art, fashion, and music. His creativity is recognised in extending from music to designing for YEEZY and collaborating with renowned contemporary artists.

DONDA is no different to Kanye’s history of artistic influence: a reconstructed Louise Bourgeois drawing adorns the most recent cover. Bourgeois repeatedly considered the mother’s role and famously created Maman (1999), which she explained to Tate as ‘an ode to my mother’. Kanye and Bourgeois both had close relationships with their mothers which impacted their future creations, from Kanye’s ‘Hey Mama’ on Late Registration to Bourgeois’ six subsequent sculptures of the large-scale spider.

From Kanye’s early albums, his artwork adopts a biographical approach. The College Dropout, Late Registration, and Graduation followthe symbolic ‘Dropout Bear’: Kanye’s mascot which shares his decision to drop out of college to pursue music. 

Blending contemporary art, recognisable merchandise, and musical production is an aspect of Kanye’s album release process. Kaws’ cover for 808s & Heartbreak snaps a deflated balloon heart, pulling it apart by cartoonish, white, gloved hands. George Condo for My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy merged aggression, shock, and creativity for a series of nine interchangeable covers. In a desert red, long-sleeve shirt reading in an Old English font, ‘I feel like Pablo’, Kanye first played The Life of Pablo at Madison Square Garden. The iconic emblem came to not only be associated with an album, but also with a moment significant to his fanbase. He incorporates his merchandise to become part of the album’s era, as a counterpart to the music.

Kanye West is one of the least predictable people currently in the celebrity eye. His album art constantly changes in anticipation of album releases, but once released, it maintains coherence with the music. For DONDA, we can expect Kanye’s consistent meticulousness in creating an album with an encompassing aesthetic from production to artwork, to clothing

Shop Kanye:

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Kanye West ‘Jesus is king’ Detroit crew neck sweatshirt

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Kanye West Wyoming print T-shirt

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Kanye West Houston Pablo Pop-Up We Young And We Alive L/S Tee

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Kids See Ghosts Lucky Me Crewneck Sweatshirt

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Words by Caitlin Sahin

The post Kanye West and His Relationship with Art: From The College Dropout to Donda appeared first on Voir Fashion.