Vêtements: Urban Chic Meets Nostalgic References

Vêtements lived up to its reputation for embracing chaos and culture with its “Time to Clean Up the Mess” collection. The star-studded runway opened with Travis Scott, who strode down the runway in a striking black lacquered moto suit that set the tone for the rest of the show. Anok Yai, in a mini black dress, followed closely behind, radiating confidence as she embodied the brand’s raw edge.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Gigi Hadid turned heads on the runway in a striking outfit reminiscent of Kim Kardashian’s iconic Balenciaga look. The collection, featuring a playful interpretation of urban style, included elements like packing-tape yellow ensembles adorned with DHL logos.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Marcia Cross, best known from Desperate Housewives, made a surprise appearance in a head- to-toe black ensemble, commanding the runway with poise.

The show almost ended in dramatic fashion as Anok Yai returned to close the show in a fluffy wedding dress, contrasting with the predominantly dark palette that preceded it.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Rick Owens: A Hollywood Fantasy

Rick Owens brought a cinematic flair to his SS25 collection, transforming the Palais de Tokyo into a stage for high drama. As the rain poured outside, the sun miraculously broke through, creating a fitting backdrop for Owens’ exploration of old Hollywood glamour.

This season, he invited students from Paris design schools to model, promoting inclusivity and diversity on the runway.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Owens’ collection showcased flowing silhouettes, combining ethereal elements with avant- garde designs. The models walked gracefully, despite the slippery conditions, embodying the freedom that Owens champions. From denim cutoffs to inflatable boots, the collection balanced high fashion with a spirit of rebellion, capturing the essence of Owens’ artistic vision, seen with black lentils.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Mugler: A Dark Floral Fantasy

Casey Cadwallader’s Mugler collection offered a striking contrast to the pastoral themes of previous seasons. Drawing inspiration from his gardening experiences, Cadwallader infused the collection with a sense of menace and complexity.

Cadwallader’s designs featured sharp tailoring, with sculptural details around the hips and shoulders, mimicking the bloom of a flower in a distinctly Mugler fashion.

A standout piece was a black dress that burst into a vibrant turquoise flower made from layers of organza. This season marked a return to Mugler’s roots, balancing drama with sleek, futuristic tailoring while maintaining a darkly romantic edge.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

The collection was a visual feast, emphasizing the importance of silhouette and structure while remaining true to Mugler’s roots. With a blend of elegance and edge, Cadwallader proved his ability to recontextualize the house’s legacy while paving the way for the future.

Valentino: The Return of Maximalism

Alessandro Michele‘s return to Valentino after a two-year hiatus was met with excitement and enthusiasm. The show, held at the Dojo de Paris, featured an extravagant array of looks that celebrated the designer’s flair for maximalism. The collection was a vibrant display of colors, textures, and embellishments, reminiscent of Valentino’s iconic style.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Michele drew inspiration from the house’s archives, blending references from the 60s and 80s while adding his unique twist. With an emphasis on ruffles, bows, and luxurious fabrics, the collection exuded a sense of joy and extravagance. The finale featured models adorned with statement accessories, showcasing Valentino’s commitment to a glamorous and whimsical aesthetic.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Balmain: Embracing Individuality

Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain SS25 show was a love letter to the brand’s legacy, with a focus on beauty, craftsmanship, and inclusivity. Rousteing, who has been at the helm of Balmain for over a decade, showcased his commitment to broadening fashion’s spectrum with a cast that included women of all generations. Something that definitely retentisse inside us, at Voir Magazine.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

The highlight of the show was the introduction of Balmain Beauty, with dresses and jackets adorned with hand-embroidered pearls and textures that mirrored the brand’s new fragrance bottles. This celebration of beauty was a defining moment for the brand, signaling its expansion into a broader luxury category.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Cecilie Bahnsen: Blending Nature and Whimsy

Cecilie Bahnsen‘s latest collection embraced the outdoors, featuring elements inspired by her love of nature. Collaborating with Japanese artist Takashi Homma, The North Face and Asics, Bahnsen infused her designs with a sense of whimsy and functionality while upping w-cultural references. The collection included garments that seamlessly merged fashion with practicality, showcasing a playful yet elegant aesthetic.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

The collection also featured drawstrings, technical buckles, and 3D floral motifs, adding a sense of practicality to her otherwise romantic designs. Bahnsen’s use of recycled nylon and organza showed her commitment to sustainable fashion, making this collection both beautiful and responsible.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Saint Laurent: A Tribute to Classic Elegance
Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent SS25 collection paid homage to Yves Saint Laurent

himself, drawing inspiration from the designer’s personal style.

Bella Hadid made her much-anticipated return to the runway in a sharp, double-breasted black suit, complete with a tie and thick-rimmed glasses—a clear nod to the late designer’s own style.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Impeccable tailoring, oversized aviator jackets, and bold accessories dominated the runway, with each look exuding power and precision.

Vaccarello’s ability to blend masculine tailoring with feminine details created a collection that felt strong yet elegant. The use of vibrant colors like fuchsia, kingfisher blue, and daffodil yellow added a playful touch to the otherwise structured silhouettes.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

As Paris Fashion Week SS25 comes to a close, these collections showcase the incredible diversity and creativity of today’s top designers. From Mugler’s dark romance to Valentino’s joyful maximalism, the runways were alive with innovation and individuality. Each collection left its mark, reminding us that fashion is not just about clothing—it’s about storytelling, identity, and self-expression.

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YSL – The Incorporation Of Sheer, Transparent Dresses And Tops

 Anthony Vaccarello’s latest show for Saint Laurent redefines the essence of fashion through the artistic use of transparency. Garments crafted from soft, sheer fabrics emphasise the body as the ultimate accessory, with close-fitting silk dresses and tops that resemble delicate undergarments. This contrast of modesty and nudity challenges conventional notions of allure. Transparency in this collection represents confidence and celebrates the feminine form as a work of art. The collection elegantly blends sensuality and sophistication, embracing Saint Laurent’s distinctive aesthetic with a modern twist. 

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 This bold exploration of intimacy and transparency not only captivates the audience but also sets a precedent for the evolution of haute couture, cementing YSL’s position at the forefront of fashion innovation. 

Leopard Print’s At Dior

The presence of leopard print undoubtedly captured the spotlight at the Dior fashion show. From sleek trench coats to chic hats and statement bags, the runway was adorned with this timeless pattern, injecting a fierce yet sophisticated edge into the collection. 

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Each outfit emitted boldness and confidence, with the classic print flawlessly incorporated into Dior’s typical elegance. The contrast of traditional designs with the bold appeal of leopard print created a captivating visual narrative, elevating the runway collection to new heights of luxury and style. 

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Celebrity Appearances

The Dior fashion show featured a number of notable celebrity appearances. Amongst the renowned guests was actress Elizabeth Debicki, well known for her portrayal of Princess Diana in the famous Netflix series “The Crown,” graced the occasion with her elegant demeanour, reflecting the perfect example of regal sophistication. Also, singer Rosalia’s made an appearance as well as Caroline Trentini, a supermodel and house friend adding to the show’s extravagant environment. Their presence not only added to the excitement of the runway show, but also highlighted Dior’s lasting appeal in a variety of entertainment and cultural contexts. 

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Grapes Take Centre Stage At Balmain

At the heart of the Balmain fashion show was the incorporation of grape designs adorning skirts, corsets, bodysuits, and dresses. This unexpected motif gave the collection a unique and stylish charm, offering a new take on classic designs. From beautifully designed corsets to flowing skirts and form-fitting bodysuits, each garment exemplified Olivier Rousteing’s amazing ability to combine innovation and timeless appeal. 

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The incorporation of grape motifs throughout Balmain’s Paris Fashion Week show is a subtle reference to France’s rich cultural heritage, best known for their wines and vineyards. By weaving grape motifs into skirts, corsets, bodysuits, and dresses, Balmain pays homage to this quintessential aspect of French culture, infusing the runway with a sense of national pride and heritage. 

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Furthermore, the grapes’ link with luxury and refinement is consistent with the grace and grandeur that define Parisian fashion. Therefore, beyond the aesthetic appeal, the grape patterns serve as a reminder of France’s cultural richness and lasting influence within fashion. 

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Elegance Reimagined: The Schiaparelli Ready-To-Wear Collection

In a masterful showcase at Paris Fashion Week, Schiaparelli unveiled its Ready-to-Wear collection, featuring a range of textures, bold silhouettes, and a blend of tradition and innovation. The collection was a tribute to luxury with a modern twist, featuring lush materials and a colour palette that ranged from pristine whites and rich browns and classic plaids. 

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One could feel the luxurious vibe emanating from a full-length white coat, adorned with golden buttons, and paired with tan boots, capturing a winter fantasy of pure elegance. In contrast, a head-to-toe glossy brown outfit with a quilted texture and matching boots spoke to the brand’s penchant for making a statement with monochromatic sophistication. 

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The collection also played with structure and volume, as seen in a black coat with an exaggerated collar and gold buttons, juxtaposed with a striking striped pattern that added a graphic edge. Plaid made a distinguished appearance, crafted into a timeless double-breasted coat, invoking a sense of heritage yet felt thoroughly contemporary with its tailored fit and accessorized with a touch of gold. 

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Schiaparelli’s Ready-to-Wear collection at Paris Fashion Week was a testament to the brand’s vision of modern-day couture, where each piece told a story of luxury and avant-garde design, all while maintaining wearable artistry. The vibe was one of understated drama, where every detail was a whisper of fashion’s future rooted in the richness of its past. 

Soft Detailed Draped Dresses At Cecilie Bahnsen

The Cecilie Bahnsen fashion show was a stunning event, with soft, intricate draped dresses that floated down the catwalk with ethereal grace. These outfits were a highlight of the show, encapsulating the essence of Bahnsen’s signature designs, which combines femininity with sculptural precision. 

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The dresses were made of delicate fabrics and had intricate flower patterns, as well as frills and ties, giving the collection a touch of whimsy and romance. The soft flow of the fabrics contrasted perfectly with the structural bows on the shoulders, resulting in a balance of form and fluidity. 

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The colour palette was subdued, allowing the textures and layers to take centre stage, while the incorporation of sheer elements played with the notions of reveal and conceal. This design choice was a key moment within the show, showcasing Bahnsen’s talent for crafting garments that are at once timeless and modern, with a sense of quiet luxury that resonates with the viewer. 

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The collection stood out as a celebration of softness and strength, with each dress embodying a serene confidence. It was a key moment that left a lasting impression, highlighting the brand’s unique aesthetic and mastery of detail. 

Cowboy Aesthetic At Chloé

At the Chloé fashion show during Paris Fashion Week, a distinct cowboy aesthetic was woven throughout the collection, serving as a key moment of thematic expression. This Western motif was captured through the use of fringe, leather, and relaxed yet structured silhouettes. 

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Another outfit showcased a more direct Western influence with a fringed leather jacket, cinched at the waist with a large belt, paired with a short skirt. The combination of the leather’s texture and the fringe’s dynamism channelled the energy of the Wild West while retaining a sense of contemporary fashion sensibility. 

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The inclusion of wide-brimmed hats and tailored coats with fur accents further embraced the cowboy theme, while lace and patterned fabrics introduced a delicate counterpoint, suggesting the merging of frontier ruggedness with feminine grace. This thematic choice was not only a nod to the past but also a statement on the versatility and appeal of cowboy-inspired attire in contemporary women’s fashion. 

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Shaded Sophistication: The Diverse Sunglasses Of Casa Blanca

The Casa Blanca show at Paris Fashion Week showcased a stunning array of sunglasses, each exuding its own unique charm and character. From oversized aviators to sleek thinner frames, the collection represented a wide spectrum of designs, signifying a celebration of individualism and personal expression. 

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The bright and inventive designs were a standout moment in the show, displaying Casa Blanca’s dedication to pushing the limits of conventional fashion. Casa Blanca’s runway show featured an eclectic mix of sunglasses, which not only improved the overall aesthetic but also highlighted the transformational power of accessories in defining a look. Whether retro-inspired or cutting-edge, each pair of sunglasses exuded refinement and flair, creating a powerful statement on the runway and beyond.

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Vibrant Elegance: Exploring Rabanne’s Spirited Collection At Paris Fashion Week

The Rabanne collection radiated a joyful energy, effortlessly combining fabrics, designs, and eras. one of the outfits was a sequinned tank top teamed with an asymmetrical skirt adorned with vibrant designs, finished with star-patterned tights and boots, creating a dynamic contrast of elegance and edginess. 

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Moving into a more bohemian realm, another outfit featured a patchwork of patterns, with a draped, poncho-like top flowing over a contrasting print skirt, conveying a sense of carefree elegance. The use of earthy tones and flexible materials gave a sense of nostalgia combined with contemporary flair. 

The collection also explored a modern interpretation of florals, as seen in a sleek black ensemble layered on top of a vivid flowery dress. The translucent, textured turtleneck worn under a sleeveless dress created a subtle layering effect that played with silhouette and form. 

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Overall, the Rabanne collection at Paris Fashion Week appealed to a confident, vibrant lady who values a dynamic wardrobe that is as daring and adventurous as it is fashionable. It was a celebration of originality and the art of combining pieces that might not normally go together, resulting in a fresh and unique collection. 

Isabel Marant’s Western-Inspired Elegance

Isabel Marant’s latest collection at Paris Fashion Week was a celebration of rugged elegance, channelling a Western-inspired aesthetic that felt both fresh and familiar. The garments were a rich tapestry of texture and earthy tones, with fringe details, suede, and snakeskin prints taking centre stage. 

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Each piece told a story of strength and femininity, such as a suede fringed jacket over a bold snakeskin print, cinched at the waist with a leather belt to create a silhouette that was both powerful and polished. The use of layering was prominent, with oversized ponchos draped effortlessly overflowing dresses. Leather and suede were complemented by softer textures, adding a touch of Parisian chic to the Western narrative. The footwear, slouchy and buckled boots, grounded the looks with a sense of practicality and adventure. 

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Through this collection, Isabel Marant paid tribute to the free-spirited independence of the cowgirl while maintaining the brand’s signature sophistication, crafting a narrative that spoke to the contemporary woman’s desire for fashion that is both daring and wearable. The vibe was one of an adventurous spirit meeting modern luxury, a key moment that captured the essence of the designer’s vision for the season. 

Futuristic Minimalism: Courrèges’ Pocketed Precision

At the Courrèges show during Paris Fashion Week, the collection was a nod to the future of fashion with its stark minimalism and clean lines. The clothing exuded a vibe of futuristic chic, underscored by a palette of neutral tones and stark black, embodying the brand’s reputation for pioneering space-age attire. 

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A key moment in the show was the introduction of a middle front pocket on a sleek, beige sheath dress. This functional element was a standout detail that harmonized with the collection’s practical aesthetic. It wasn’t just a pocket; it was a statement about the integration of utility into high fashion. The models were also accessorised in streamlined sunglasses, the simplicity of the designs was elevated by this feature, which added both visual interest and practicality. 

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The Courrèges collection presented a vision of the future where functionality meets style. The middle front pocket stood as a testament to the brand’s commitment to innovation, making it a key moment that encapsulated the essence of the show. 

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_{Written By Gabriella Neocleous}

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The fashion crowd flocked to the capital of Scandi-chic this week for Copenhagen Fashion Week, where cult brands such as Cecilie Bahnsen and Ganni unveiled their Autumn/Winter 2020 collections. From statement prints and candy colours to neutral tones and minimalist silhouettes, take a look at the most covetable collections showcased in the Danish capital.

Selam Fessahaye

Swedish-Eritrean designer Selam Fessahaye used her AW20 show as a platform to champion diversity, as the only black designer at CPHFW, sending models of different races down the runway for one of the most diversely casted shows in the history of the city’s fashion week. The show opened with a barefoot model waltzing down the catwalk in a voluminous floor-filling taffeta skirt and matching bralet with a single puff sleeve, her hair adorned with traditional Eritrean golden headpieces in in tribute to Fessahaye’s Eritrean heritage. Myriad prints from leopard to baroque florals took form in exaggerated silhouettes and textures, with everything from an oversized kiwi print two-piece to a trailing maxi dress made up of waves of pleated tulle. Later on, a trench coat-cum-gown was printed with kaleidoscopic images of a woman holding a machine gun, symbolising women fighting for the liberation of Eritrea and reinforcing the show’s striking message of female strength.

Helmstedt

Emile Helmstedt’s AW20 collection drew inspiration from the designer’s fantasy world of elegant tea parties and French Pâtisserie, suitably showcased in Copenhagen’s French Embassy. The show was an explosion of colour and print, both of which drive the universe of Helmstedt’s unique hand-painted garments, inspired by the Copenhagen-born designer’s dreams and childhood nostalgia. Statement dresses and two-piece suits resembled pyjama and nightgown silhouettes with a whimsical sensibility, playfully embellished with crockery and tableware.

Cecilie Bahnsen

Since her debut in 2015, Cecilie Bahnsen has become one of Copenhagen’s most celebrated designers, recognised for her architectural volumes and sculptural silhouettes. Each of her collections has offered a contemporary take on femininity through juxtapositions of softness and structure and minimal and maximalist proportions – her AW20 collection is no exception. What resembled billows of clouds floated down the runway in the form of fluttering minidresses constructed in snow white silk organza. Bahnsen offered a visual feast of romantic silhouettes, wedded to neutral hues and monochrome colour palettes with injections of duck-egg blue and creamy chocolate brown. Subtle doses of florals were woven through the collection, alongside plentiful frills, covetable textured knitwear and a foray into tailoring in the shape of form-fitting blazers layered over wisping dresses.

Stine Goya

Copenhagen-based label Stine Goya’s flair for colour offers a vibrant injection to the minimalist palettes embodied by many of the brands on the Scandinavian fashion scene, with hand-painted and -drawn prints infusing unique and quirky details into each garment. For the brand’s AW20 collection, saturated shades of lime green, lavender and hot pink dominated, and a plethora of prints swept the runway, from zebra prints and blown-up polka dots paired with print-clashing tights, to playful suiting, each completed with a pair of platform flip-flops. One of the most covetable pieces of the entire week was a dreamy belted teddy coat in Neapolitan pastels that’s bound to end up in every Scandi fashion girl’s wardrobe.

STAND STUDIO

Stuck in a winter outerwear conundrum? Look no further than STAND STUDIO’s AW20 collection, with options abound for statement styles, from chessboard print faux fur to mock croc leather. Interspersed between overcoats and jackets were shimmering lamé suits and supple leather skirt-and-shirt combinations, infused with a layer of edge in the form of studded belts and cuffs. The collection championed a streak of wildness, with plentiful animal prints from snakeskin mini dresses to tiger-print faux fur. Creative director Nellie Kamras succeeded once again in crafting a collection filled at once with effortlessness and eccentricity.

Ganni

Arguably the most hotly anticipated show of the week was cult brand Ganni. After Copenhagen Fashion Week unveiled its Sustainability Action Plan 2020-2022, Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup, at the helm of the label, renewed their focus on working towards creating a fully sustainable label. A Copenhagen skatepark served as host for Ganni’s forward-thinking AW20 collection, as the brand partnered with 20 female artists to create garments from upcycled materials, including a coat woven from discarded wool samples. Fewer prints made way for moodier colour palettes and grungy undertones, with the occasional flash of golden dark florals and punkish leopard print. Leather and denim pilgrim collars in blown-up proportions added an extra layer of intrigue to pared-back silhouettes. Crochet berets were the accessory du jour, completing slouchy suits, khaki quilted coats and leather two-pieces with a dose of nonchalance.

Words by Ruby McAuliffe

Graphics by Katie Janes

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