Paco Rabanne

Paris Fashion Week marked design house Paco Rabanne’s return to the runway since the passing of the founder himself. Paco Rabanne passed away just last month, making this show a particularly emotional one, as this show honoured his work and contributions to the industry. Julien Dossena decided to pay homage to the late designer by focusing on his friendship with Salvador Dali. This meant that the show featured an array of dresses with Dali’s paintings printed on them as well as some of his extravagant jewellery. 

While this may make it seem like a collection that honoured Salvador Dali more than Paco Rabanne, this was not the case. The show was unapologetically Paco, the sparkling metallic chainmail looks that have become synonymous with the brand closed the show, accentuating the late designers continuing influence on the industry. The sparkling archival looks reminded us of Paco Rabanne’s innovative designs and trademark looks, leaving the audience with this as their final thoughts from the collection.

Acne Studios

Acne Studios took the distressed look to a whole new level in their mystical show. The enchanted forest set the stage for a collection that celebrated the natural world and particularly Jonny Johansson’s childhood in Sweden. The distressed wool and crochet knits played into this natural influence along with the neutral colour palette. The ultimate manifestation of this theme came to light in the various leaf-like dresses that took to the catwalk, bringing the Swedish forest to the runway.

These natural elements and the mystical set up created a jarring juxtaposition with the distressed, almost-apocalyptic looks. The combination of these elements served to create a natural and earthy aesthetic that was far removed from the highly technological looks that we have been seeing as of late. One interesting way that this came to light was through the use of the body as a canvas, which Johansson stated was “a way to make them become a window onto nature”.

_{^{Photo Credits: Acne Studios}}

Hodakova

Hodakova’s “Conventional Collection 112303” was inspired by a humble household object, the spoon. Whether they were covering bags, dresses or creating the cups on bralettes the kitchen utensils were everywhere. Inspired by the Swedish folktale Nail Soup that tells the story of a (you guessed it) soup made from a nail, the collection celebrated ingenuity. In addition to spoons, fabric spikes covered punk-inspired skirts and dresses in a nail-like fashion.

Some of the non-spoon related looks featured elaborate tulle, sheer fabrics and intricate silhouettes. There were examples of exceptional tailoring as sleek suits took to the runway. And finally, the collection, of course, did not come without HODAKOVA’s signature buckle bags that have taken the fashion world by storm. 

Rick Owens

Rick Owens is known for the outrageous; this collection was no exception. From metallic pink puffers to sleek waist high leg slits, we saw it all in what can only be described as a maximalists’ dream. Each model took to the runway in sky-high platform boots that sagged around the leg in the way a loose-fitted trouser would; a shoe that we believe will be everywhere this Autumn/Winter. The predominantly black collection heavily played with textures and proportions creating extravagant silhouettes and shapes in the absence of colour.

While most of the looks were black, Owens injected some colour through the metallic pink and green looks in the collection that were anything but subtle. Refusing to sacrifice the playful and experimental aspects of these looks in the pursuit of colour, Rick Owens just decided to do it all. The pink sequin donut-like garments stole the show, and we cannot wait to see which celebrity is brave enough to wear one of these looks on the red carpet. 

_{^{Photo Credits: Rick Owens}}

Coperni

Coperni, always the master of a viral moment. The designer that brought us the iconic spray on dress, a moment that won Bella Hadid Model of the Year at the British Fashion Awards, has created yet another talkable moment. The show was inspired by Jean de la Fontaine’s fable ‘The Wolf and the Lamb’ fable, Coperni’s Instagram explained:

“Unlike the original fable written in the 17th century, which raises questions relating to the balance of power between the human groups that make up society, Coperni reinterprets the story and transposes it to the year of 2023 with a positive vision of the future.
The show presents Coperni’s vision which is that there is neither a dominant nor a dominated, but that mankind and machine can live in harmony.”

This inspiration was visible in the designs through the painted landscapes on jackets and the white fluffy pieces that likened the models to sheep. All in all, the collection placed a modern and urban twist on the pastoral tale. 

Even though the show featured models such as Adut Akech and Lila Moss, the star of the show was none other than Spot (or multiple Spots) the robotic dog. The Boston Dynamics robots took to the runway as aids in the storytelling, but they soon stole the show as one Spot interacted with model Rianne Van Rompaey. This particular Spot had an elongated robotic arm (or neck) that allowed the two to lock eyes before Spot began to undress the model, removing the thick blanket that wrapped around her shoulders and handing it back to her.

While critics may argue that this show along with the last were dependant on gimmicks, more concerned with going viral on social media than the clothes at hand, we feel that these moments at shows are integral in Coperni’s exploration of technology within both fashion and modern life. As Coperni said that this was a more relaxed moment following on from the magic of their spray on dress last season, we are very excited to see what they do next.

Ester Manas

Inspired by her upcoming wedding to Balthazar Delepierre, Ester Manas created a collection for the cool bride. The show took place in a church and was soundtracked by some of the most universally recognised love songs, a route that the couple will not be taking at their own wedding. The looks, however, were entirely non-traditional and non-conforming.

From two pieces to completely sheer gowns, these dresses were for the ‘it’ brides only. The diverse display of models seemed like the brides that you would be begging for a hen party invite from and you bet that we would be wearing one of the less bridal looks from the collection if we managed to bag an invite. 

_{^{Photo Credits: Ester Manas}}

Valentino

If you’re going to take one thing away from the Valentino show, let it be this: Go and buy a tie. Ties have been popping up in the fashion girls’ wardrobes for a hot minute now, but they are about to experience the Pierpaolo Piccioli effect. The collection, aptly named ‘Black Tie’, utilised the accessory on every look in some capacity. Some were styled classically, with the black tie set against a white shirt under a blazer while others were dresses with faux shirt collars and ‘ties’ that connected to the dress’ bodice. Whether a conventional depiction of the tie or not, this collection singlehandedly proved the versatility of the accessory that has often been associated with the constraints of a work or school uniform. So, go buy a tie. 

_{^{Photo Credits: Valentino}}

Zimmermann

19^th-Century Australian artist Rupert Bunny left Melbourne and settled in Paris when he married Jeanne Morel, a journey not dissimilar to Zimmermann’s. The Australian fashion house held its second show in Paris this season and drew on Bunny’s art as inspiration. The collection worked with the National Gallery of Victoria to incorporate the painter’s works into the looks through delicate prints and a romantic colour palette. Nicky Zimmermann explained: 

“For Fall I was inspired by the artwork of Rupert Bunny, an Australian artist from the turn of the last century. I was drawn to his use of colour and the romanticism of his work – the gentle and dreamy lifestyle scenes. There is a glow, warmth and optimism to his work that is really appealing to me.”

However, this is not where the melding of French and Australian fashion ends. The usual romantic eveningwear was prominent throughout the collection; however, this season featured a surprising guest, the humble denim jean. The delicate lace and florals that we are used to seeing from the design house were paired with loose fitting jeans in the perfect blending of the relaxed style we see in Australia and the romanticism of France. This collection served as a map of Zimmermann’s history as it honoured both its origin and current destination in one fell swoop.

_{^{Photo Credits: Zimmermann}}

_{Words by: Amelia Gregory}

^{Header Image: Valentino, Ester Manas, Paco Rabanne}

The post Robotic Dogs and Spoons as Garments? You Wouldn’t Want to Miss Our Paris Fashion Week Highlights! appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Off-White

The Off-White show this week served as a celebration of the life of former creative director and founder Virgil Abloh, who passed away last year. Abloh was one of the pioneers and great modern innovators of the fashion industry, and this collection followed suit, offering a glimpse into the space age and allowing everyone to dream of a bright future. A huge amount of variety was on show from minimalist streetwear inspired looks of oversized jumpers, puffer jackets and hoodies that are staples of the brand to high end couture, a pool in which Off-White has never really dipped its toe into.

It needn’t matter though, as the multitude of layered, oversized dresses, gloriously gigantic hats and bombastic prints and colours all felt completely effortless, as if the brand had always been a high-end couture behemoth. As one of Virgil’s final works before his passing this is one beautiful legacy to leave behind.

Vaquera

Themes of punk and rebellion ran through the DNA of this show and onto the catwalk too. Pretty much everything on show was oversized, creating a casual yet edgy feel that was a perfect blend of 80s and Y2K styles. Stone washed denim was paired with sleek leather for an ultimate grunge inspired look, and loud prints from leopard print to skulls to comic inspired art added an artistic edge to proceedings.

Nanushka

There was a quiet vulnerability and intimacy in Nanushka’s show. Foregoing the traditional catwalk of models walking up and down for mere seconds, the models of Nanushka’s show stepped onto spinning platforms and stood perfectly still for what felt like an age, inviting viewers to stare and really take in the atmosphere of the show and the craftsmanship of the clothes. This intimacy translated through into the clothes with a gentle sense of femininity running through the collection with pristinely cut suits with deep necks and flared trousers in light browns and baby blues being standout looks from the show.

Di Petsa

The theme of femininity continued with Di Petsa, whose show and collection centred around the themes of motherhood. With the runway thematically set with moody lighting, water on the floor and remnants of foliage making it appear the show was set in a Garden of Eden of sorts, clothes which embraced the raw nature of being a mother graced the runway. Gentle fabrics comprising of ruffles made up a bulk of the collection, putting an emphasis on comfort first and foremost. The raw nature of the show became even more apparent with models carrying babies down the runway as well as clips of mothers feeding their children spliced in between. The collection showcased the power and beauty of motherhood in a wonderfully real nature.

Christian Dior

The future is now. That was the message Christian Dior was sending this week. Set in an enormous room with the walls lined with classical portraits, you’d be forgiven for thinking the show would kick off with some classically designed haute couture. Instead, a glow in the dark bodysuit was the first piece on the runway and what followed were a barrage of futuristic looking pieces meshed with clothes from older ages. Slick high vis jackets were paired with flowing lace skirts, arm gloves that wouldn’t look out of place on the outfit of a racing driver accompanied sophisticated body-hugging dresses, and huge Matrix style glasses made models look as if they were wearing high-tech visors.

As the show carried on though, the looks gradually began to regress through time and the futuristic elements gradually faded away. The precise cuts of tailoring that have been so prevalent throughout the 20^th and 21^st Centuries took up the middle portion of the show, with elegant printed overcoats, velvet two-piece suits and shining maxi skirts bringing the room back to the present. Soon after, time regressed again with dramatic sweeping dresses made of lace, swaying elegantly around the models as they walked, transporting everyone back to the age of the ballroom, an age more befitting of the setting the show was housed in.

Christian Dior managed to combine the past, present and future in sublime fashion and in doing so celebrated the history of the craft whilst also looking forward to its future.

Ottolinger

Models made their way around a twisting padded maze for Ottolinger in a show that felt futuristic in a distinctively Y2K manner. Lashings of smooth velvet slinked around the maze along with puffer jackets and coats that didn’t look too dissimilar to the maze walls and a fantastically slick set of suits. Huge shoes finished off many of the outfits on display and enhanced the vintage otherworldly feel of the show, with the collection as a whole echoing the fashion of The Matrix. The only thing missing was an appearance from Keanu.

Saint Laurent

If there’s one thing that can always be guaranteed from a Saint Laurent show, it is extremely high glamour and extremely high sophistication and this show was no different. With a beautiful backdrop of an illuminated Eiffel Tower in the background, the glamour was only heightened even more. That unmistakable Saint Laurent style was present from the start with uniquely chic touches on blazers, giving them hugely oversized dropped shoulders, decadent fur coats and shimmering thigh high boots to add subtle levels of sensuality to proceedings.

It was a fantastically elegant high end display, the kind that has always come to be expected from Saint Laurent.

Didu

Rather than stage a traditional catwalk show Didu instead produced a short film showcasing their looks for the season and it’s safe to say it had a dystopian feel of sorts. With elements of neo noir with a futuristic biker riding down a moonlit highway, a fantastical overgrown forest and a rather unnerving last supper of sorts, the film was a journey through varying scenarios which showcased the diverse and rich nature of the brand.

Rochas

As smoke poured into the studio and a foreboding dance track began to play there was a somewhat sinister edge to the Rochas show. Not that that’s a bad thing though as the clothes on display also matched this eerie atmosphere by appearing quite dark and almost villain-like themselves. Dark, leather coats, dresses and hats were combined with dramatic make up and oversized nails creating looks that weren’t too far removed from the queen of evil herself: Maleficent.

Tailoring laden with jewels shimmered through the clouds of smoke and, combined with unique shoulder cuts which bloomed outwards like a blossoming flower, added a gentle touch amongst the smoke and dramatic music.

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten presented a dreamlike paradise to the fashion world this week. There was an astonishing array of fantastically vibrant prints spread across coats, tops, skirts and blazers, ranging from classic zebra and cow prints to much more psychedelic patterns meshing colours and swirling around the garments in hypnotically mesmerizing manners.

The insane levels of detail extended to accessories to with hand-stitched brooches in the shapes of crests being made up of vibrant colours swirling around each other like a kaleidoscope. Uniquely, the clothes themselves were also primarily displayed on mannequins rather than models and, taking things even further, the mannequins themselves were often patterned with the same prints as the clothes they were displaying. This created a blurring of lines of sorts between the clothes and the wearer.

Acne Studios

In a pristine white studio guests at this weeks Acne Studios show were sat in pits in the floor itself and watched as the models of the show slinked around them from above.

A particular highlight of the collection was its use of nightwear and loungewear inserted amongst the usual high-end pieces and looks. Massively oversized dressing gowns which drowned the models were paired up with equally oversized slippers creating an undoubtedly comfy look which stood at odds with the rest of the show. Who says extreme comfort can’t be extremely fashionable?

Balmain

Kicking the show off with a beautifully intimate dance routine before the models graced the runway, there was a tender atmosphere to Balmain’s presentation. Of course, this tenderness didn’t distract from the effortlessly cool styles that the fashion world has come to expect from Olivier Rousteing, whose love for distinct silhouettes, monochromatic palettes and sleek, modern theatricality was as present as ever.

A collection of the most pristine and purest whites led the show comprising of the unique tailoring structures that Rousteing has become known for, paired with flowing trousers, miniature bags and enormous boots that could have had their own gravitational pull.

These outfits had an almost angelic feel to them which wonderfully matched the gentle nature of the show’s opening performance. A bit of darker energy soon followed though with equally slick and futuristic black outfits fitted with metallic plates taking the audience from the skies to space and enormous coats of fur and that unique Olivier block colouring adding plenty of elegance and sophistication.

Coperni

Set in a spacious locker room with a soundtrack made to an emulate a radio broadcast there was a quiet sense of sexiness present in Coperni’s collection. There was plenty of flesh on display as thigh high boots and miniskirts exposed thighs, tops and dresses revealed shoulders and some uniquely cut blazers highlighted parts of the body. All of this was handled tastefully though and with a sense of sophistication showcasing a strong level of maturity.

Gauchere

Gauchere presented a mature and sophisticated collection this week. The French brand showcased traditionally cut tailoring in a variety of cool neutrals from brown to black to beige, giving the collection a fresh neutrality. Blazers and coats oozed sophistication whilst skirts flowed to mesmerizing degrees.

Paul Smith

One of the icons of British fashion, Paul Smith is still creating collections that are full of charm, whimsy and wonder. Continuing to showcase the signature prints and patterns that have become so synonymous with the brand and designer, with this collection having a particular affinity for zigzags and psychedelics, the clothes all have a distinctly British feel to them that only Paul Smith is capable of achieving. A lush array of colours please the eyes as well with deep, brooding purples, fresh greens and passionate, vibrant reds leading the way and adding bursts of personality to the collection. Paul Smith is, as always, timeless, elegant and infectiously fun.

Lecavalier

Taking place in a dramatically lit studio there was a tense atmosphere to the Lecavalier show. At times the presentation almost felt like a western standoff of sorts with models passing by each other trading tense stares and gazing into the cameras in a similar way at the audience. The drama was equally present in the clothes too with dramatic colour combinations, oversized jumpers consisting of patterns that, again, wouldn’t be too far removed from a western, and a stunning coat made up of incredibly intricate twists and knots.

Rick Owens

The king of gothic theatricality, Rick Owens, returned to Paris this week with undoubtedly one of the most breathtakingly stunning shows of the season, if not the year, so far. Atmosphere, as always with Rick Owens, was immersive from the start with smoke machines billowing smoke onto the runway and even models carrying their own miniature versions with them, creating a swirling cloud of mysterious wonder. A sweeping orchestral score only added to the spectacle, making the presentation feel more like a huge Broadway performance than a runway show.

Of course, the clothes were spectacular as well. The silhouettes of pointed shoulders, dragging capes, huge hairdos and swirling dresses matched the atmosphere of the stage perfectly with the collection looking like it had come straight from a beautiful yet slightly twisted fairytale. It could be easy for a collection rooted in such drama to lack a certain sense of reality and soul but that was absolutely not the case here. Despite the high dreamlike state there was a warmth and soul to the collection that brought the entire presentation back to reality.

Isabel Marant

With a packed audience in attendance and a live performance accommodating the show there was a very playful and uplifting vibe to Isabel Marant’s presentation. Models strutted with vigor and fierce attitude to the dreamy soundtrack of the show and presented a collection of clothes that was equally playful to the setting they were in. Fluffy jumpers with striking patterns looked comfy and inviting whilst a whole host of colourful garments added to that feeling of wonder and whimsy that was already present. A highly uplifting presentation indeed.

Alexandre Vauthier

There was a rough elegance on display from Alexandre Vauthier this week. The video presented by the brand had a DIY energy to it that also emitted a rebellious punk energy which translated through to the collection itself. Each piece exuded a confident amount of attitude, evoking feelings not too far removed from the British punk movement of the 80s. Coats were decked out in various animal prints and would feel right at home amongst the stylings of last years Cruella, whilst glamourous dresses had dramatic fur necklines that, again, wouldn’t feel out of place worn by the monochromatic menace herself.

Loewe

With the runway space painted floor to ceiling in a chocolate brown and with multiple huge pumpkins scattered across the room there was an immediately surrealist nature to Loewe’s presentation. This surreal vibe extended massively to the clothes as well, with the entire collection having an Alice in Wonderland feel due to the sheer amount of whimsical and straight up head-turning pieces on display. Dresses that started off in a typically standard manner at the neck extended downwards into the shapes of cars at the waist, whilst others were shaped into giant, puckering lips at the chest before flowing down into an elegant and flowing trail. There were heels accessorized with humongous bows at the ankle and, speaking of heels, some were even put into dresses themselves with the heels nearly piercing out of the fabrics.

Amongst all of this surrealist content there was also a wide array of shapes and cuts that would seemingly be thought to be impossible when it comes to making clothing. But Loewe managed it all and created a compellingly trippy show that pushed the boundaries both of what fashion is and what it is truly capable of.

Issey Miyake

Japanese brand issey Miyake also presented a fairly surreal take on its collection this week, though to a more minimalized degree. As ever with Miyake subtlety was a strong point and the collection had a refreshingly down to earth vibe whilst also still being creative and pushing forward some unique prints and designs. Jumpers looked uber soft and comfy to the touch coming in a nice variety of cool neutrals and brighter colours such as purple, whilst coats were adorned with artistic prints looking as though they had been brushed on with a giant paintbrush.

Nina Ricci

In a playful and energetic presentation Nina Ricci asked its participants what it is that they feel makes them their most authentic selves. The celebration of embracing one’s authentic self and not being hindered by other’s opinions or doubts was an uplifting message and felt empowering too. The clothes on display complimented this message being bright in colour, with cool pastel pinks and blues, and by featuring some playful prints which added some extra dimension to outfits.

Jitrois

There was a definite space-age vibe emitting from Jitrois’ presentation this week. In a glitchy and distorted video presentation models were seen sporting shining silver dresses and tailoring that looked fit for a grand space adventure. A red leather getup consisting of jacket and trousers, whilst being distinctly contemporary, also had an air of futurism about it and looked effortlessly cool to boot. Space-age styled futuristic clothing is always interesting to see and Jitrois delivered a slick and cool take on the aesthetic.

Lutz Huelle

Traditional glamour was at the forefront of the collection from Lutz Huelle. Glamorous sophisticated dresses in a rainbow of primary colours lit up the presentation, with some darker, checkered tailoring serving as a nice contrast to the array of colours. Patchwork denim tops and jeans added a touch of casual everyday wear to proceedings, whilst still feeling distinctly elegant in its own way. Outfits were also accessorized with some stunning crystal jewels in the forms of lavish necklaces and dangling earrings, hammering home that traditional glamour in a suitably stylish way.

Yohji Yamamoto

With the runway framed by multiple luxurious crystal chandeliers there was an immediate sense of gothic drama to Yohji Yamamoto’s presentation. Of course, gothic theatricality is a known staple of Yamamoto’s work so it should be no surprise that the collection presented this week leaned heavily into the theming in a beautiful, almost sorrowful manner.

Yamamoto’s signature use of black was ever present, casting a gloriously gothic glow over the room. Layered, billowing dresses that swayed beautifully as the models walked down the runway emitted a wonderful sense of drama, and the expert tailoring of blazer jackets and coats that are staples of Yohji’s work added a dark sense of sophistication to the show, as should be expected from Yamamoto’s work. Many of the outfits presented felt fairytale-like in nature which gave the collection a wonderful sense of whimsy that worked wonderfully with the gothic stylings. Yohji Yamamoto has proved once again why he is one of Japan’s most acclaimed and beloved designers.

Marine Serre

If there were an award for most sheer variety in a runway show this week then Marine Serre would be a very serious contender for the crown. Everything from abstract geometric prints, to Scottish inspired check, to satanic body suits, to skin-tight head to toe velvet extravaganzas was present. Yet, despite this insane amount of variety, the show never at any point felt inconsistent or had any tonal issues.

There was a definite surrealism surrounding the collection and many open interpretations ready to be taken. One absolute though is that this was one of the most unique shows of the season so far and did a wonderful job of balancing both the functionality of fashion with the spectacle and performance. A true work of art.

Words By Andrew Coyle

_{Photo Credit; Off White, Filippo Fior}

The post Paris Fashion Week Saw Much Anticipated Tributes and, Traditional Catwalks Traded for Modern Live Performances – Here’s Your Mid Week Rundown. appeared first on Voir Fashion.

If you are looking to experiment with your hair, there has never been a better time to do it. With enough recovery time to hide out, wait for the hair to grow out if it goes bad and a lot of Instagram attention to show off your new look if it goes well. Here are hair trends hot of the spring-summer 2020 trend book you could try to transform your look.

Straight Blunt Cut

One of the safer hair transformations on our list is a blunt cut. This style refers to when the hairstylist cuts straight across with the scissors. This hairstyle is best when you are looking to shape and frame your face. This hairstyle is also adaptable for both short and mid-length hair.

Androgynous Short

The androgynous short look is perfect for all those looking for a boyish look. The look consists of neck length hair slicked back or tucked behind the ears. Find out if your hair looks sexier pushed back.

Bowl Cuts

The bowl cut. No, I’m not referring to the one from your childhood hair traumas. This is the new fashionable bowl cut that comes in many forms from the 70s long bowl to the short-feathered bowl cut.

Micro Bangs

Micro bangs are extremely short bangs and often cover only half of your four or five head (let’s be honest, if you are considering bangs it may be a five head, no judgement.) When it comes to micro bangs you either look really cool or really bad there is no middle ground with micro bangs so before you try this be sure that you are ready, cross your fingers and hope you are part of the lucky few.

Modern-day Mullet

The mullet is one of the 80s rock and biker gang hair trends that we gladly put to rest. Business in the front, party in the back is the only description to give the mullet. But for the modern mullet think more Miley Cyrus than Billy Ray Cyrus. This mullet is a daring anti-fashion hairstyle suitable for a rebellious and edgy look.

Pixie Cut

This hairstyle is best if you are looking for a bold change. The hairstyle features extremely short hair. Think Ellen DeGeneres – yeah, that’s the one.

Although hair transformations may be risky remember it will always grow back and if none of these hairstyles is suitable for you, remember you can always go blonde.

Words by Precious Njoki

Graphics by Katie Janes

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The post 6 Hair Trends to Try While You’re Stuck Indoors appeared first on Voir Fashion.

The unexpected partnership that combines British traditionalism with Scandi simplicity

Two of the world’s most-loved fashion houses, Mulberry and Acne Studios have just collaborated to create a high-end and limited-edition collection of bags, satchels, lanyards amongst other leather goods. The 17-piece range, which dropped November 5th, shocked the fashion world due to the brands’ largely divergent style aesthetics.

Whilst Acne is known for minimalist streetwear pieces in-line with Swedish design philosophy, Mulberry garnered a cult-following for its very British-heritage bravura and focus on leather accessories. Though the brands make an unlikely couple, the outcome of this partnership has managed to bring in union classic styles and signatures from each of the houses to create completely unique and distinctive pieces.

The hallmark of the collection is undoubtedly the fusion of Mulberry’s staple Bayswater with Acne’s origami knot Musubi handbag. The interlacing of the fashion houses’ best-known pieces to create something new is emblematic of the intentions of the collaboration. As stated by Acne Studios creative director Jonny Johansson:

“This is a collection about friendship, like a conversation between Acne Studios and Mulberry that is found on mutual respect. Growing up, Mulberry was a truly iconic brand in Sweden. Their handbags bring back memories from my childhood”. This idea is compounded by Mulberry CEO Thierry Andretta who states “the Acne Studios and Mulberry collaboration is a perfect manifestation of the spirit of both our brands. It showcases Acne Studios’ wonderful Swedish design ethos and celebrates both the British heritage and modernity of Mulberry”.

To launch the range only a simple logo release was necessary to garner public attention which featured the ‘Acne’ lettering as leaves on the internationally recognised Mulberry tree emblem. Priced between £90 and £1295, this collection puts a fresh and collective twist on both brands and would make any outfit look elegantly chic whether donning the re-worked Scotchgrain bag in pink or cross-body satchel in black.

The full collection is available to buy at selected Acne Studios and Mulberry stores and online at mulberry.com and acnestudios.com.

Words by Hena Sharma

Graphics by Aamir Potrick

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Men’s fashion week flirted with femininity (an incorporation of the unisex direction that fashion is continuing to head in); SS20 MFW provided an array of soft men’s blouses at Loverboy and Fendi, delicate pastels at Louis Vuitton, and Monet-inspired floral dreams at Jacquemus and Off-White. The Acne Studios’ show was certainly no exception to a Shakespearean-subversion and play of gender-bending, as the collection played with feminine utilitarian wear; florals, and vibrant pastels, juxtaposed by leather trousers, chain jewellery, and airplane style belts (very Virgil).

Acne weren’t afraid to create a beauty look to handsomely mirror this – a Boy Beat.

Clean, clear skin, bushy brushed-up-brows, and wispy Twiggy-style lashes; complete with delicately middle-parted straight hair tucked behind ears, it was a robustly feminine beauty look that celebrated both archetypal male and female features.

The term ‘Boy Beat’, which was coined by Instagram influencer Sarah Cheung, is the epitome of Acne Studios’ male beauty look. Originally inspired by Sir John’s makeup look on Beyoncé for her ‘Formation’ video which was an “androgynous way” of looking at makeup, blurring lines between looking traditionally feminine and masculine, Sarah created her viral YouTube tutorial. (Watch it here)

Androgynous makeup has always been a look synonymous with pop-culture and those daring to be different; with Prince, Bowie, Grace Jones, Tilda Swinton, and Twiggy all playing with elements of both sexes.

So this summer ladies, let’s play with our more masculine side..

How to get Acne Studios’ MFW 2020 look –

Perfect for those toned down days at work, or stinkingly hot weather:

1. Apply Dior’s ‘Backstage Face and Body Foundation’ all over as light base. As a water-based foundation, Dior’s ‘Backstage’ can be thinned out to perfect the skin tone, but show those important imperfections that create the effortlessness of a boy beat.

2. Apply a Fenty Beauty ‘Match Stix’ in your contour shade (‘Amber’ – Light Skin, ‘Mocha’ – Medium Skin, ‘Truffle’ – Tan Skin, ‘Espresso’ – Deep Skin) in the hollows of the cheeks, through the eye socket, and along the jaw line to get an androgynous chisel.

3. Follow with Glossier’s ‘Boy Brow’ applied vigorously onto brows to get Acne’s full-bodied brow. Then apply lashings Pat McGrath’s FetishEyes Mascara for robust volume to achieve that perfectly juxtaposed masculine feminine look.

If you want to go the extra mile, dot Eylure individual lashes along the bottom lash line for that 60’s Twiggy look.

4. Finally, smooth hair into a middle part using GHD straighteners and follow with Colour WOW ‘Dream Coat Supernatural Spray’ which will eliminate any stray frizz and wispies, for soft Scandi-style hair.

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