VICTORIA BECKHAM S/S21 COLLECTION

Victoria Beckham SS21

Victoria Beckham’s S/S21 collection is truly what dreams are made of. In a toned-down collection of just 20 looks, Beckham mixes the masculine with the feminine and the classic with the contemporary. Beckham has said that the collection reminded her of why she started working in fashion. The ready-to-wear collection, which was one of the few delivered with a physical show, shot in a gallery space, ranged from 70s tailoring with a masculine edge (think Mick Jagger), long trousers to be paired with Carrie Bradshaw high heels, and parachute maxi dresses. The key takeaways from the show? That low slung denim is well and truly back and in the upcoming seasons, we will be seeing banana heels and extra-long puddling trousers everywhere.

SIMONE ROCHA S/S21

Simone Rocha SS21

Simone Rocha’s Spring 2021 ready-to-wear collection, is all glamour, decadence, and royal nostalgia. I find the collection evocative of a palace, which makes sense as it influences were Bettie Kline, and Nell Gwyn, a mistress of Charles the second. Escapism is at the heart of the collection, Rocha nodded to castles in faraway places as an inspiration. And while a decadent allure grounds the collection, that doesn’t make it any less on-trend, with billowing silhouettes and exaggerated ballroom sleeve à la AW2020, and embellished crystal bra tops, the collection manages to merge being of this moment with a sense of nostalgia for the glitz and glamour of a faraway age.

Simone Rocha SS21

EMILIA WICKSTEAD SS21

Emilia Wickstead SS21

Wickstead’s ready-to-wear collection is simply, real. Refined and relatively simple, this collection features dresses that will take you from lunch to a small soirée, rather than from the bar to the ball. For the digital presentation, Wickstead commissioned documentary filmmaker Robin Mellor, and short a film of the collection with a diverse cast of women. The designs evoke ‘90s minimalism and Peter Lindergh’s images of the era, in a way that feels both new and nostalgic. The simplicity of the collection is perhaps what makes it so beautiful – unlike the injections of hyper energy seen by other houses, this collection shows a designer slowing down, evaluating what feels right and what feels necessary and indeed, what we want to be wearing right now. Minimalist fashion is a firm style favourite right now and this collection executes it flawlessly.

Emilia Wickstead SS21

MOLLY GODDARD S/S21

Molly Goddard SS21

This collection is full of energy. The designs are practically bursting at the seams, with a loud art-punk vibrancy. Goddard’s collection provides a much-needed injection of joy into an otherwise very bleak, landscape. The designs comprise on brand tulle and taffeta, with bright contrasting colours from bold red to vibrant green. There are also moments of checkerboard neon, and a few more toned back white designs, that function as a calm within a fashion storm. Goddard’s collection is vivid and bright, placing a much-needed emphasis on positivity.

Molly Goodard SS21

FASHION EAST S/S21

Fashion East SS21

This season is Fashion East’s 20th anniversary – Lulu Kennedy’s platform is dedicated to supporting emerging talent. This season, four brands Goomeheo, Nensi Dojaka, Saul Nash, and new addition Maximilian Davis showed their collection via films. Goomeho’s designs drew inspiration from Paul Wunderlich’s erotic painting, exploring what it means to be an object of attention. Dojaka explores her interest in lingerie, in a collection influenced by abstract shapes, dance, and the female body. For Nash, his collection was centered by the billowing fabric of dance pioneer Loie Fuller, while Davis looked to his Trinidad and Tobago heritage of carnival for his debut.

Fashion East SS21

Fashion East ss21 image video via Katie Guyan

Words by Marni Rose Mcfall

Graphics by Frances Scott

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