Rather than stage a sombre memorial, Michele approached the moment with the kind of layered
romanticism that has come to define his work. The collection unfolded as a dialogue between
reverence and disruption, heritage and imagination.

Rome as Stage
Palazzo Barberini, with its frescoed ceilings and monumental architecture, provided a setting that
felt almost operatic. Michele has always been a designer fascinated by history, and the location
allowed him to frame the collection within Rome’s visual mythology—where art, cinema and
aristocratic glamour have long intersected.
The palace’s ornate interior echoed the richness of the clothes themselves. Velvet, lace and
jewel-tone fabrics caught the light of the historic rooms, reinforcing the sense that the show was as
much an atmospheric experience as a fashion presentation.

Silhouettes: Between Discipline and Excess
Michele’s signature maximalism was immediately evident. Layers of fabric, elaborate embroidery
and dramatic draping dominated the runway. Yet beneath the decoration there was a surprising
structural clarity.
Coats appeared elongated and precise, their lines controlled despite the weight of embellishment.
Dresses fell into carefully managed pleats, sometimes paired with lace hosiery that introduced a
subtle sensuality.

The silhouettes carried echoes of classical statuary—long vertical lines that allowed the garments
to move with a quiet theatricality.
Where Michele’s earlier work often celebrated visual chaos, this collection suggested a designer
increasingly conscious of Valentino’s historic elegance.

Colour: The Language of Roman Luxury
Colour functioned almost like a narrative device throughout the show. Deep emeralds, sapphires
and burgundy tones appeared repeatedly, creating a palette reminiscent of Renaissance painting.
Velvet gowns in saturated jewel tones moved against darker wool coats and layered silks,
producing contrasts that felt almost painterly.
And then, inevitably, came the moment everyone was waiting for: Rosso Valentino. The house’s
iconic shade of red appeared in the finale gown, a gesture that read unmistakably as homage to the
founder whose name remains synonymous with the colour.

Accessories and Ornament
Accessories amplified the show’s baroque atmosphere. Oversized jewellery, bows and intricate
embellishments appeared throughout the collection, reinforcing Michele’s fascination with
decoration as storytelling.
Yet the styling also included playful touches—layered necklaces, textured tights, and unexpected
pairings that softened the drama of the garments.
The effect hovered somewhere between couture elegance and theatrical costume, a tension
Michele seems particularly drawn to.

The iconic Valentino Rockstud made a striking return on the Valentino Fall/Winter 2026 runway, reminding fashion insiders why the design became one of the house’s most recognisable signatures. First introduced under Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri, the pyramid studs once again appeared across accessories and footwear, adding an edge of modern glamour. The revival felt both nostalgic and fresh, proving that the Rockstud remains a timeless emblem of Valentino’s bold yet elegant identity.

A House After Valentino
The emotional context surrounding the show inevitably shaped its reception. As the first runway
presentation since Valentino Garavani’s death, the collection carried the weight of history.
For decades, Valentino himself defined the house’s aesthetic—refined glamour, immaculate
tailoring, and the unmistakable presence of Rosso Valentino.
Michele’s approach does not attempt to replicate that legacy directly. Instead, he treats it as a
foundation on which to build something new.
The Fall/Winter 2026 show suggested a house in conversation with its past rather than constrained
by it. The codes remain—romanticism, opulence, the colour red—but they are filtered through
Michele’s own visual imagination.

If the founder’s era was defined by disciplined elegance, Michele’s Valentino appears poised to
explore something more layered: a world where Rome’s history, cinema and art collide with
contemporary fashion.
And in the shadow of Valentino Garavani’s passing, that conversation between past and future
feels more poignant than ever.

The post Valentino Fall/Winter 2026: Meet the New Valentino Woman appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Vêtements: Urban Chic Meets Nostalgic References

Vêtements lived up to its reputation for embracing chaos and culture with its “Time to Clean Up the Mess” collection. The star-studded runway opened with Travis Scott, who strode down the runway in a striking black lacquered moto suit that set the tone for the rest of the show. Anok Yai, in a mini black dress, followed closely behind, radiating confidence as she embodied the brand’s raw edge.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Gigi Hadid turned heads on the runway in a striking outfit reminiscent of Kim Kardashian’s iconic Balenciaga look. The collection, featuring a playful interpretation of urban style, included elements like packing-tape yellow ensembles adorned with DHL logos.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Marcia Cross, best known from Desperate Housewives, made a surprise appearance in a head- to-toe black ensemble, commanding the runway with poise.

The show almost ended in dramatic fashion as Anok Yai returned to close the show in a fluffy wedding dress, contrasting with the predominantly dark palette that preceded it.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Rick Owens: A Hollywood Fantasy

Rick Owens brought a cinematic flair to his SS25 collection, transforming the Palais de Tokyo into a stage for high drama. As the rain poured outside, the sun miraculously broke through, creating a fitting backdrop for Owens’ exploration of old Hollywood glamour.

This season, he invited students from Paris design schools to model, promoting inclusivity and diversity on the runway.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Owens’ collection showcased flowing silhouettes, combining ethereal elements with avant- garde designs. The models walked gracefully, despite the slippery conditions, embodying the freedom that Owens champions. From denim cutoffs to inflatable boots, the collection balanced high fashion with a spirit of rebellion, capturing the essence of Owens’ artistic vision, seen with black lentils.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Mugler: A Dark Floral Fantasy

Casey Cadwallader’s Mugler collection offered a striking contrast to the pastoral themes of previous seasons. Drawing inspiration from his gardening experiences, Cadwallader infused the collection with a sense of menace and complexity.

Cadwallader’s designs featured sharp tailoring, with sculptural details around the hips and shoulders, mimicking the bloom of a flower in a distinctly Mugler fashion.

A standout piece was a black dress that burst into a vibrant turquoise flower made from layers of organza. This season marked a return to Mugler’s roots, balancing drama with sleek, futuristic tailoring while maintaining a darkly romantic edge.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

The collection was a visual feast, emphasizing the importance of silhouette and structure while remaining true to Mugler’s roots. With a blend of elegance and edge, Cadwallader proved his ability to recontextualize the house’s legacy while paving the way for the future.

Valentino: The Return of Maximalism

Alessandro Michele‘s return to Valentino after a two-year hiatus was met with excitement and enthusiasm. The show, held at the Dojo de Paris, featured an extravagant array of looks that celebrated the designer’s flair for maximalism. The collection was a vibrant display of colors, textures, and embellishments, reminiscent of Valentino’s iconic style.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Michele drew inspiration from the house’s archives, blending references from the 60s and 80s while adding his unique twist. With an emphasis on ruffles, bows, and luxurious fabrics, the collection exuded a sense of joy and extravagance. The finale featured models adorned with statement accessories, showcasing Valentino’s commitment to a glamorous and whimsical aesthetic.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Balmain: Embracing Individuality

Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain SS25 show was a love letter to the brand’s legacy, with a focus on beauty, craftsmanship, and inclusivity. Rousteing, who has been at the helm of Balmain for over a decade, showcased his commitment to broadening fashion’s spectrum with a cast that included women of all generations. Something that definitely retentisse inside us, at Voir Magazine.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

The highlight of the show was the introduction of Balmain Beauty, with dresses and jackets adorned with hand-embroidered pearls and textures that mirrored the brand’s new fragrance bottles. This celebration of beauty was a defining moment for the brand, signaling its expansion into a broader luxury category.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Cecilie Bahnsen: Blending Nature and Whimsy

Cecilie Bahnsen‘s latest collection embraced the outdoors, featuring elements inspired by her love of nature. Collaborating with Japanese artist Takashi Homma, The North Face and Asics, Bahnsen infused her designs with a sense of whimsy and functionality while upping w-cultural references. The collection included garments that seamlessly merged fashion with practicality, showcasing a playful yet elegant aesthetic.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

The collection also featured drawstrings, technical buckles, and 3D floral motifs, adding a sense of practicality to her otherwise romantic designs. Bahnsen’s use of recycled nylon and organza showed her commitment to sustainable fashion, making this collection both beautiful and responsible.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Saint Laurent: A Tribute to Classic Elegance
Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent SS25 collection paid homage to Yves Saint Laurent

himself, drawing inspiration from the designer’s personal style.

Bella Hadid made her much-anticipated return to the runway in a sharp, double-breasted black suit, complete with a tie and thick-rimmed glasses—a clear nod to the late designer’s own style.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Impeccable tailoring, oversized aviator jackets, and bold accessories dominated the runway, with each look exuding power and precision.

Vaccarello’s ability to blend masculine tailoring with feminine details created a collection that felt strong yet elegant. The use of vibrant colors like fuchsia, kingfisher blue, and daffodil yellow added a playful touch to the otherwise structured silhouettes.

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

Image Credits: Vogue Runway

As Paris Fashion Week SS25 comes to a close, these collections showcase the incredible diversity and creativity of today’s top designers. From Mugler’s dark romance to Valentino’s joyful maximalism, the runways were alive with innovation and individuality. Each collection left its mark, reminding us that fashion is not just about clothing—it’s about storytelling, identity, and self-expression.

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The post Paris Fashion Week: Highlights from the Most Captivating Runways appeared first on Voir Fashion.