With over 50 shows from some of the leading fashion houses in the world, there was definitely a lot to take in but don’t worry, we secured the main designers here. Milan Fashion Week was a moment to remember. 

Diesel

Milan Fashion Week gave us the collaboration that none of us expected: Diesel x Durex. The catwalk took place in front of a mountain of red Durex wrappers and was soundtracked by an intimate playlist in a show that championed sex positivity. 

The collection featured Diesel’s usual edgy denim pieces, but the most impressive by far was the way that the brand put a spin on distressed denim. Rather than the usual rips and tears that form frayed edges and loose strings; Diesel incorporated delicate mesh in a sort-of sheer darning detail. This intricate detail not only elevated the look of ripped jeans, but it also played into the ever-popular push and pull of masculinity and femininity as the aggressive rips created a jarring contrast to the delicate lace mesh. 

Roberto Cavalli

Denim was also a huge part of the Roberto Cavalli show. Cavalli’s history is rooted in denim, the designer began his career by creating Frankenstein-esque creations out of scraps of denim; this history was a central source of inspiration for Fausto Puglisi’s collection.

Alongside denim, the collection featured various looks that were constructed by a collage of leather, adding an edgier element to the otherwise bohemian inspired designs. The brown-looks felt very inspired by a 1970s rocker-chic aesthetic, highlighting the retro influences that were weaved throughout the collection.

The collection also featured a heavy segment dedicated to black lace. This section featured a variety of looks that utilised black lace; everything from feathered catsuits to miniskirts took to the runway. This collection was not only an archival-inspired homage to fashion history, but it also served to prove the sheer versatility of materials and the way that they can be used to produce a vast selection of looks.

_{^{Photo Credits: Roberto Cavalli}}

Blumarine

Set against the backdrop of a blazing ‘B’ and stony outcrop, Blumarine took us on the journey of Joan of Arc. The metallic tones put a modern spin on the iconography of Joan of Arc’s silver armour and the shearling knee-high boots featured buckles that played with designs of combat boots. Chainmail tops and dresses served to show the versatility of the collection’s muse as the looks transitioned from martyr to party girl. 

This collection took Blumarine’s usual Y2K aesthetic, which often manifested itself in hyper-feminine looks of bubble-gum pink and floral frills, down a much darker route. The grungy collection was fuelled by danger and while still feminine, the looks explored the dynamic between violence, threat, martyrdom, and womanhood. 

_{^{Photo Credits: Blumarine}}

MM6 Maison Margiela

MM6 pioneered trendy tailoring this Milan Fashion Week. The collection was made up of a variety of tailored pieces, whether they were worn in sets or as individual pieces; layered or minimally styled; deconstructed or classically built; the looks demonstrated the versatility of tailoring. In a collection that emphasised the coolness in wearability, all of the looks were elevated yet rooted in simplicity. 

We have seen many designers stray away from show-stopping, viral designs that the internet devours recently as they favour more wearable designs that can maximise sales. While this may sound like a boring development, MM6 proved that it does not need to be. This collection emphasised the possibilities that exist in our day-to-day wardrobes, an important aspect of the fashion industry that must not be ignored.

_{^{Photo Credits: MM6 Maison Margiela}}

Moschino

The Moschino Autumn/Winter 2023 collection was inspired by Salvador Dali’s ‘The Persistence of Memory’. The famous melting clocks inspired the drip-like hems of the skirts that graced the catwalk. The fluid looks were paired with distorted patterns that both mimicked Dali’s painting and added to the ‘melted’ look of the clothes.

However, halfway through the show the collection took a punkier turn. The hedgehog-spiked headpieces were worn throughout the show, highlighting the influence of punk styles on the collection, but the clothes truly reflected this theme in the second portion of the catwalk. The elaborate ballgowns and extravagant silhouettes were Westwood-esque, in what many have seen as a tribute to the late designer. 

_{^{Photo Credits: Moschino}}

GCDS

GCDS’ latest collection was inspired by the domestic, the looks took a more conservative and grown-up look to past collections by the designer, but that does not mean that the collection was plain or boring in any way. The collection featured a bag inspired by Giuliano Calza’s cat, a piece that highlighted the importance of domestic life within this collection. 

However, the domestic also came out in other forms, particularly the use of safety pins throughout the collection. This highlights not only the process of designing and creating clothes but also how clothes exist within the home. The use of such a mundane yet integral object within the collection perfectly bridged the gap between the high fashion industry and the domestic lives that inspired the looks. 

Cormio

Cormio have successfully jumped on the football bandwagon and used their show to emphasise the feminist roots behind this trend. The venue for the show was a football hall on the outskirts of Milan but, unlike the hyper-masculine world of football, women were allowed to take centre stage in this environment. 

Women in football have been marginalised and underappreciated for years and now femininity is fighting back. Instead of opting for more ‘masculine’ looks to fit in with this atmosphere, Cormio instead forced femininity into this environment, proving that there is a place for ‘girliness’ within football. The Y2K ‘punk princess’ inspired looks highlighted another traditionally masculine environment that has been successfully dominated by women for years. The pieces reclaimed sexist phrases and slurs, injecting an ironic sense of humour into the collection. 

However, our personal highlight from the collection was the hyper-feminisation of the literal football. Cormio turned the instrument of the sport, the thing that the entire game is dependent on, into a handbag in a camp reclamation of the sport. 

Sunnei

Never before have we seen a horizontal catwalk. But that is exactly what Sunnei gave us. Models gracefully traversed the traditional catwalk before partaking in an elaborate trust exercise at the end of the runway. After falling into the arms of onlookers the models crowd-surfed to the end of their runway. 

The collection itself prioritised eye-grabbing looks, from patchwork denim to fringed knits, the looks were perfect for the it-girl who wants to stand out. Much like the runway show, the collection was non-traditional but not unwearable, the looks perfected the more out-there elements of contemporary streetstyle. 

Dolce & Gabbana 

After days of online speculation, Kim Kardashian sat front row at the Dolce & Gabbana show this Milan Fashion Week in an archival red two-piece that was a modernised look from the designer’s 1990 collection. Although onlookers were yet to realise it, Kim’s look set the stage for the collection that they were about to see as the Autumn/Winter 2023 ‘Sensuale’ collection was deeply inspired by archival work.

While lingerie-inspired looks are not uncommon on the runway anymore, Dolce & Gabbana were designing these sorts of collections back in the 90s. With this context the lace-heavy underwear-as-outerwear looks that graced the catwalk this season were more historic than you might think. The collection even featured a corset from 1991 and a coat from 1997 as the designer works to bring back some of their iconic pieces. 

_{^{Photo Credits: Dolce & Gabbana}}

^{Words by: Amelia Gregory}

^{Header Image: Diesel}

The post Durex Wrappers, Catsuits and Ballgowns? Here Are Our Favourite Shows From Milan Fashion Week. appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Yesterday we watched Italian fashion designers come together to present their Spring/Summer 2021 collections in day one of Milano Fashion Week Digital. We may be witnessing the events from home, but iconic brands [we’re talking Prada, Moschino, and Plan C] spoilt us with jaw-dropping collections. Today, Day Two of MFWD, the high continued. So, here is all you need to know to get caught up on Milan Fashion Week, the sequel.

LES HOMMES SS21: “The Essence of Contemporary Elegance”

Hybrid pieces sat at the forefront of this latest collection through the “unification of opposites” in seemingly contradictory looks. Creative directors, Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch, fused classic and corporate tailoring and casual sportswear to present a SS21 collection that is designed for every occasion. Their SS21 collection is best characterized by distinctive tailoring, strong silhouettes, combined with informal street style and cutting-edge accessories. Signature tailor-cut blazers, leather jackets, and camel trench coats balance out the contrasting style of biker boots, chained belts, and cargo vests to depict the title of the collection; “contemporary elegance.”

Les Hommes Spring/Summer 2021 from Menswear Youtube Channel

FABIO QUARANTA S/S21

Fabio Quaranta Spring/Summer 2021 from Menswear

The Italian Designer re-invented the traditional catwalk to present his SS21 collection in a utopian, space-age film. The neutral and muted colour palette of beige, yellow and brown presents a wearable and interchangeable aesthetic to the collection; all in all balancing out the archaic atmosphere of the film which incorporates elements of space, air, water, and fire.

Fabio Quaranta Spring/Summer 2021 collection

Quaranta incorporated an array of textures and fabrics to the collection, such as technical tweed and cotton, and to bring depth and durability to the ‘uniform’ motif expressed in the collection. Long trousers, short jackets, pocketed trousers, and vests are all paired with a statement headdress, not

M1992 : Brainwashhh

For their Spring/Summer 2021 collection, M1992 dropped a seven-look collection inspired by the notion of brainwashing, fake news, and the acceptance of manipulation in today’s society. Moving into a virtual society since the Covid-19 hardship, this season we have seen the ‘waist-up dress code’ take centre stage when styling ourselves for online skype meetings. Playing on this, their latest collection favors statement print shirts and daring jewellery that pushes boundaries. With a distinct colour palette of neon green, the collection is embellished with images of brains and washing machines to bring their ethos and brand culture to life. Ultimately highlighting their profound concern; that our brains are being washed out.

SUNNEI: Introducing SUNNEI Canva

Sunnei: Sunnei Canva from Menswear Youtube Channel

Since collections have been showcased using digital platforms amid Coronavirus, designers have taken creativity to a whole new level to share their SS21 collections. Sunnei being one. As the first part of the collection to be dropped, Sunnei merged reality with the virtual world to present their signature pieces redesigned in total white. The idea behind ‘blank canvas’ allows each item to be personably customized; encouraging consumers to explore their individual creativity and personal style within the Sunnei brand. Truly being a collection that suits all- the opportunities are endless.

Sunnei: Sunnei Canva SS21 Collection

SERDAR SS21: Men’s Short Film

Serdar SS21 Men’s Collection from Guitar PR & Communication Consultancy Youtube

Serdar sat down and introduced to us his Spring Summer 2021 collection as a part of Milano Fashion Week Digital. Speaking of the collection: “I’m inspired by everything I love. Nature, beauty, art, colours, music, dance, and especially David Bowie.” Blue, green, mint and beige are the core colours of this collection, embellished through hand-made bandanas and necklaces; another core element to this collection. A balance between sports luxe and chic apparel is expressed and allows flexibility through a mix of casual and nightwear looks. Tailored tracksuit sets, loose tee’s and distressed denim bring nonchalance to the line, while a reflective jacket, structured leather and printed silk shirts inject refinement and poise.

Dolce & Gabbana: Spring 2021 Collection

Being the last, but certainly not least, Italian brand to showcase their Spring 2021 menswear collection in day two of MFWD, Dolce & Gabbana paved the way for the future of physical post-COVID-19 designer shows in the first socially distanced, masked up fashion engagement event.

While other designers taking part in MFW complied with the new ‘digital show’ trend, as expected, Dolce and Gabbana pushed the boundaries to express positivity and unity that the fashion industry needs, especially in this era. Simply, D&G felt their show could not be substituted for an online show. The open-air show screamed ‘social distance’ as guests attended the catwalk wearing facemasks as models showcased the new collection, standing one meter apart.

Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2021 Menswear Collection

Distinguished from other Italian labels that took part in Milano Fashion Week Digital, Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana spoke out prior to the event regarding the emotional and physical hardship caused by coronavirus that has inflicted difficulties in presenting their Menswear show. Speaking of the collection, Domenico Dolce said: “I don’t like the ‘digital show’, the fashion show cannot be substituted with a screen display. Because fashion begins with people.” Especially with the essence of this show, the complexity and intracity of the clothes is unquestionably something that needs to be seen and appreciated with the raw eye.

The new collection is inspired by the colours of the Amalfi Coast and the surrounding sea focusing on cerulean, cobalt and light blue tones with neoclassical statutes embellished on the items. Silk sarongs, a rib-knit wetsuit, dressing gowns and Mediterranean style loose-fitting pants and shirts. Striking ceramic Italian patterns elegantly dressed the clothes, while distressed denim and patchwork injected a street, edgy feel. To say one thing, this surely was a collection we were glad to have experienced in the physical world. Patience really was a virtue and it paid off.

Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2021 Menswear Collection from Dolce & Gabbana Youtube Channel

Words by Clare Stephenson

Media from official collections

The post Milano Fashion Week Goes Digital: Everything You Need to Know About Day Two appeared first on Voir Fashion.