The designers catching our eye at this year’s fashion week are Aeron Studio and (di)vision, as they have brought the highlights of the week so far and visionary looks.

Aeron Studio

Aeron Studio known for their contemporary knitwear, showcased in an empty warehouse as beautifully eerie music echoed through the space. A diverse cast of models were used in their show which we were hyped to see, as body inclusion and model diversity should not be treated as a trend.

We were impressed with the set of looks which spiralled out of the Aeron Studio collection on Tuesday. Their key takes on AW23 fashion included high necklines, oversized leather handbags and loose, slouchy fits. No surprise that the bulk of their collection was made up of their infamous knitwear styles, which not only is perfect for a Nordic AW but also one here in the UK. Leather appeared in the form of shirts, blazers and trousers which were styled together to create contemporary ensembles.

Neutral colours dominated their runway and conventional seasonal shades such as brown and auburn were prevalent. However, a bright tangerine fit made its way down the runway and was definitely one of the eye-catchers of the collection. Most looks featured multiple layers and were kept to a strict monochromatic palette, with the exception of a few patterned pieces popping up.

_{Photo Credits: Copenhagen Fashion Week}

(di)vision

We know we can all relate to the next-day mess of a late rager being a dreaded thought. However, in (di)vision’s punk party show that is exactly what we got, and for some reason we were living for the atmosphere- maybe because we didn’t have to clean it up? The youthful brand set up their show in what can only be described as a party carcass. Guests were seated at wine-stained clothed tables where banquets of food were already half-eaten. Candles were almost burnt down to their wick ends and a sense of chaotic charm lingered in the air.

_{Photo Credits: Andrea Adraini}

Imperfections and irregularities are fully celebrated in this collection which is an amazing breath of fresh air. The deadstock materials which made up the series of 32 looks meant the designer siblings behind the visions could not be perfectionists as odd quantities of stock were at their disposal. An incredible mirage of inexact creations is therefore the result of sustainable design tactics.

Key factors of their neo-grunge AW23 collection were low-waist lines, distressed patchwork denims and leather biker styles. Decade influences from the nineties and noughties were very evident- return of leg and arm warmers, accessorizing with belts and hoodies. Their signature grunge took a gorpcore twist with all looks (mostly slouchy fits) being styled with sneakers. The subculture’s favourite, plaid, prevailed in certain looks while hats-aviator, cap, beanie- and hoods made a strong appearance. Zips and rips took hold of trousers, skirts and jackets which works for the season as well as the brand. A dash of mustard stood out on the runway and the occasional sheer piece caught our eyes.

_{Video Credits: Freja Wewer}

No wonder everyone is talking about this stunt. The destructive show closer was a captivating moment of genius from the brand. As the last model to walk the runway, Sarah Dahl, -also the partner of Simon Wick- sat at one of the many table wrecks she grabbed the attention of the room by tapping her spoon against her glass. Standing up, in traditional toasting manner, she waited until all eyes were fixed on her. In a dramatic fashion she strutted fiercely away from the table and it became clear the table cloth which covered her table, was in fact, her dress’ train. As food, drink and cutlery chaotically leapt on to the floor, spectators applauded in admiration.

A Roege Hove

A. Roege Hove is known for its extravagant yet effortless silhouettes as they seek to highlight the craftmanship and artistic process of clothes making in their designs. The AW23 show, however, took this one step further as the first model took to the runway without her outfit. We then had the pleasure of witnessing the delicate craftmanship that lies behind each look as we saw the designer’s trademark gauze knitwear take form in front of our eyes.

The collection featured the usual sheer looks that we associate with the designer, but this collection debuted her first works with wool. The chunkier knits offered a whole new texture to the collection, something that proved to be a key element within this show. The heavier knits were seen alongside feathers, ribbed details and open knits to create a multidimensional collection that strayed away from her usual looks whilst staying true to the theme of the brand.

Photo Credits: Copenhagen Fashion Week

Stine Goya

If there is one designer that you should keep your eye on it is Stine Goya. The women-led brand has been going from strength to strength as of late and their latest collection “Freeze” was a wintery dream. Inspired by Hans Christian Andersen’s Snow Queen, the collection looked to celebrate the winter season. While a winter-inspired show might bring images of practical puffer jackets and ski-suits to mind, Stine Goya took these looks and added a fairy-tale twist.

A sea of silvers and blues took to the catwalk, channelling the colours that we associate most with the season. The icy tones were paired with furry accessories such as hats, coats and boots creating a Narnia-esque depiction of a magical winter. If this collection achieved one thing, it firmly solidified the trend of silver and metallics that are set to take over from the Valentino PP Pink domination.

While some of the looks channelled the regal aspects of the Snow Queen, the collection as a whole felt very inspired by ski culture. The fur miniskirts and leg warmers, metallic trousers and sheer dresses felt like the perfect for a ‘cool-girl takes Aprés ski’ look. The combination of ski-culture and the Hans Christian Andersen fairy-tale came together to create the perfect depiction of a snowy winter.

Photo Credits: Copenhagen Fashion Week

Rotate

This Copenhagen Fashion Week Rotate provided us with every party look we could ever need. The black vinyl catwalk was quickly brought to life by an array of sequins and sparkles and even a special appearance from the former Real Housewife Lisa Rinna.

Rotate is a brand that celebrates the outrageously extravagant and while this collection offered a more muted colour palette than usual, it was no exception. Apart from the occasional fuchsia, the colour palette leaned more on the neutral side, but in the form of leopard print and sparkles in order to stay true to the brand’s love of the over-the-top. However, the biggest surprise came at the end of the show where the final six looks were all black and completely monochromatic. This is not to say that the looks were without the usual Rotate extravagance though, the brand simply utilised textures and silhouettes to make up for the lack of colour.

Photo Credits: Copenhagen Fashion Week

Gestuz

Gestuz’ autumn/winter 2023 show was built around an unexpected muse. The ‘Black Widow’ was central to the collection as creative director Sanne Sehestedt explored the notions of masculinity and femininity through the sultry designs. The push and pull of the traditional gender norms of fashion worked towards the re-imagined notion of sexiness that Gestuz was exploring. The pairing of traditionally female aspects of fashion such as lace and sparkles with the structure of a blazer or dark leather worked against the usual assumptions tied to ‘masculine’ or ‘feminine’ dress codes.

The binary oppositions did not stop there. The colour palette of the collection was predominantly dark, as one would expect from the ‘Black Widow’ theme, but it was not without a vibrant pop of colour. Denim was a predominant theme in the collection, alongside cream, yellow and brown, adding some lighter tones to contrast the dark. There was even a vibrant red dress in a look that felt absent of all darkness.

Overall, the collection appeared to celebrate femininity in all its forms, whether it be light or dark, ‘masculine’ or ‘feminine’, the show featured it all. The autumn/winter collection was an appreciation of binaries and the spaces that can exist in-between them.

Photo Credits: Copenhagen Fashion Week

^{Words By Erin Wilson and Amelia Gregory}

_{^{Header Image: @Gestuz}}

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The fashion crowd flocked to the capital of Scandi-chic this week for Copenhagen Fashion Week, where cult brands such as Cecilie Bahnsen and Ganni unveiled their Autumn/Winter 2020 collections. From statement prints and candy colours to neutral tones and minimalist silhouettes, take a look at the most covetable collections showcased in the Danish capital.

Selam Fessahaye

Swedish-Eritrean designer Selam Fessahaye used her AW20 show as a platform to champion diversity, as the only black designer at CPHFW, sending models of different races down the runway for one of the most diversely casted shows in the history of the city’s fashion week. The show opened with a barefoot model waltzing down the catwalk in a voluminous floor-filling taffeta skirt and matching bralet with a single puff sleeve, her hair adorned with traditional Eritrean golden headpieces in in tribute to Fessahaye’s Eritrean heritage. Myriad prints from leopard to baroque florals took form in exaggerated silhouettes and textures, with everything from an oversized kiwi print two-piece to a trailing maxi dress made up of waves of pleated tulle. Later on, a trench coat-cum-gown was printed with kaleidoscopic images of a woman holding a machine gun, symbolising women fighting for the liberation of Eritrea and reinforcing the show’s striking message of female strength.

Helmstedt

Emile Helmstedt’s AW20 collection drew inspiration from the designer’s fantasy world of elegant tea parties and French Pâtisserie, suitably showcased in Copenhagen’s French Embassy. The show was an explosion of colour and print, both of which drive the universe of Helmstedt’s unique hand-painted garments, inspired by the Copenhagen-born designer’s dreams and childhood nostalgia. Statement dresses and two-piece suits resembled pyjama and nightgown silhouettes with a whimsical sensibility, playfully embellished with crockery and tableware.

Cecilie Bahnsen

Since her debut in 2015, Cecilie Bahnsen has become one of Copenhagen’s most celebrated designers, recognised for her architectural volumes and sculptural silhouettes. Each of her collections has offered a contemporary take on femininity through juxtapositions of softness and structure and minimal and maximalist proportions – her AW20 collection is no exception. What resembled billows of clouds floated down the runway in the form of fluttering minidresses constructed in snow white silk organza. Bahnsen offered a visual feast of romantic silhouettes, wedded to neutral hues and monochrome colour palettes with injections of duck-egg blue and creamy chocolate brown. Subtle doses of florals were woven through the collection, alongside plentiful frills, covetable textured knitwear and a foray into tailoring in the shape of form-fitting blazers layered over wisping dresses.

Stine Goya

Copenhagen-based label Stine Goya’s flair for colour offers a vibrant injection to the minimalist palettes embodied by many of the brands on the Scandinavian fashion scene, with hand-painted and -drawn prints infusing unique and quirky details into each garment. For the brand’s AW20 collection, saturated shades of lime green, lavender and hot pink dominated, and a plethora of prints swept the runway, from zebra prints and blown-up polka dots paired with print-clashing tights, to playful suiting, each completed with a pair of platform flip-flops. One of the most covetable pieces of the entire week was a dreamy belted teddy coat in Neapolitan pastels that’s bound to end up in every Scandi fashion girl’s wardrobe.

STAND STUDIO

Stuck in a winter outerwear conundrum? Look no further than STAND STUDIO’s AW20 collection, with options abound for statement styles, from chessboard print faux fur to mock croc leather. Interspersed between overcoats and jackets were shimmering lamé suits and supple leather skirt-and-shirt combinations, infused with a layer of edge in the form of studded belts and cuffs. The collection championed a streak of wildness, with plentiful animal prints from snakeskin mini dresses to tiger-print faux fur. Creative director Nellie Kamras succeeded once again in crafting a collection filled at once with effortlessness and eccentricity.

Ganni

Arguably the most hotly anticipated show of the week was cult brand Ganni. After Copenhagen Fashion Week unveiled its Sustainability Action Plan 2020-2022, Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup, at the helm of the label, renewed their focus on working towards creating a fully sustainable label. A Copenhagen skatepark served as host for Ganni’s forward-thinking AW20 collection, as the brand partnered with 20 female artists to create garments from upcycled materials, including a coat woven from discarded wool samples. Fewer prints made way for moodier colour palettes and grungy undertones, with the occasional flash of golden dark florals and punkish leopard print. Leather and denim pilgrim collars in blown-up proportions added an extra layer of intrigue to pared-back silhouettes. Crochet berets were the accessory du jour, completing slouchy suits, khaki quilted coats and leather two-pieces with a dose of nonchalance.

Words by Ruby McAuliffe

Graphics by Katie Janes

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