Erdem

Classic fashion glamour walked the runway at Erdem’s show, with refined skirt suits, wonderfully minimalist and elegant overcoats, and dramatic show-stopping dresses with intricate lace detailing aplenty. Despite appearing dark and gothic on the surface, the show drew inspiration from a number of women deeply engrained into Berlin’s progressive spirit of the 1930s. These women were trailblazers in gender fluidity, living their lives as cross-dressers and opening lesbian bars in the midst of war.

The show helped to remind that even in the darkest of times it is ultimately love and expression of oneself that helps to power through and continue living life to the fullest, and this collection of expertly crafted garments pushed the notion even farther.

Rejina Pyo

Taking inspiration from 1920s supper clubs, Rejina Pyo’s collection was a dazzlingly vintage spectacular also taking cues from other more modern eras such as the 1970s and, particularly, from many art deco pieces that were produced in and around that period. Shades of beige were perhaps the most present colours of the show, but in no way did they feel drab, with coats, blazers, dresses, skirts and scarfs awash in the colour feeling delightfully retro and perfectly encapsulating the era from which they were inspired.

Pastel shades of purple, green and yellow added a touch more colour to proceedings in a way which was subtle and meshed well with the abundance of brown and beige. Add in some orange tinted sunglasses and you have a collection that is the epitome of vintage, and that is no bad thing.

Roksanda

If there is one word to describe this season’s Roksanda show, dramatic seems to be the most apt. There was a minimalist start to proceedings with beige jumpsuits and traditional tailoring. The show soon kicked up a gear with an increasing parade of bombastic and bizarre looks that dazzled the audience.

Deep, luscious colours soon began layering on top of each other, before the garments themselves took a huge turn to the theatrical. Huge, billowing dresses in hypnotizing colours walked alongside blazers and skirts with extreme fringing that also looked like they had been plucked straight out of a painting, whilst eventually quite possibly the most dramatic athleisure wear ever created closed out proceedings, with bold geometric prints and colours sitting alongside more traditional athleisure staples like stripes and monochrome colours and the silhouettes of the garments themselves being dramatically oversized with billowing sleeves and enormous coats. This was a true fashion journey.

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

If a Tim Burton movie were ever to jump off of the big screen and on to the catwalk THIS is what it would look like. A jaw-droppingly gothic spectacle which leaned hard into the theatrics and dramatics, whilst also taking inspiration cues from the 1980s pop punk culture of the UK, with bands such as New Romantics and Blitz Kids absolutely being present in spirit in this collection.

All of the hallmarks of classic punk were present: leather jackets blazoned with prints, ridiculously oversized blazers with colour blocking and paneling, and a vivid palette of reds and blacks often combined with vertical stripes to really finish the aesthetic off to a tee. The more gothic elements were present in the forms of swaying lace frocks, extravagant floral prints atop bomber jackets and dresses, and furry boots that were, perhaps, more fur than boot. Striking and beautiful performances were also displayed throughout the show making this theatrical bonanza one of the most spectacular and memorable shows of the season so far.

Edeline Lee

Minimalism is at the heart of Edeline Lee’s latest collection. Whilst a theatrical extravaganza is always a joy to behold, so is having a stripped back collection which really emphasises the meticulous care and attention to detail which goes into producing clothes. Minimalist in colour, with slick monochromes and warming browns, and minimalist in nature, with traditional tailoring of jackets, dresses, skirts and coats on display, this delightfully sophisticated collection strips fashion back to its core in a way which doesn’t feel stale, but instead warming and nurturing.

Words By Andrew Coyle

_{Photo Credit Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Filippo Fior}

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With another season of fashion weeks drawing to a close, and despite the somewhat sombre mood that swept the fashion capitals from New York to Paris, the Autumn/Winter 2020 catwalks offered plenty of food for thought on how to get dressed come next autumn, with a wealth of trends unfolding fresh off the runway.

Leather

Leather is a winter wardrobe mainstay season after season, but a plethora of AW20 collections explored new styles and silhouettes. Coach offered a lesson is layering leather, with colour-blocked leather culottes, midi-skirts and button-down shirts worn under pastel cardigans, oversized trench coats and shearling jackets. Hermès horse-jumping-inspired show featured supple leather ensembles in buttery shades, while Gabriela Hearst’s foray into leather came in the form of a caramel-coloured puff-sleeve leather dress.

Fringing

Fringing appeared in generous measures on the catwalks at all four fashion weeks but was particularly prevalent in Milan, where pleats were chopped up into fringe at Prada and Salvatore Ferragamo coated black dresses with golden trimmings, while Boss and Jil Sander sent iterations of silk-fringed evening dresses down their respective runways. At Bottega Veneta, Daniel Lee – arguably the most celebrated designer in the industry today – unveiled myriad shredded designs, with dresses finished with acidic lime green tassels and an updated take on the brand’s coveted woven pouch bag featuring exaggerated fringe.

Capes

The outerwear option du jour, billowing capes were ubiquitous across the four cities, with generously-cut shapes bringing a sense of sartorial drama to the catwalks. Michael Kors championed blanket dressing with an abundance of cashgora cape coats served up in cosy fabrics and warming winter colour palettes, while at JW Anderson knitted capes and layers of tinsel-trimming belled out from the shoulders of dresses.

Checks

The collective infatuation among designers for checks was unfading this season, manifesting itself in abundant iterations of tartan, gingham and heritage checks. In New York, Claudia Li’s translucent vinyl pleated-midi and blazer combination came in punchy pink gingham, while Monse dipped into mismatched tartan with skirts secured by safety pins and worn with punkish lace-up boots. Across the Atlantic at London Fashion Week, Burberry returned to its roots with remixed heritage checks in innovative cuts, and Shrimps gave the print a regal touch in a potent orange, pink and green colourway.

Chocolate Brown

Brown is the new black – at least according to the AW20 runways. Chocolatey shades are solidifying their place in the sartorial stratosphere, firmly entrenching their place in the palette of neutrals that have dominated the catwalks and streets for the past few seasons. Chocolate-coloured outerwear seems to be emerging as an autumn/winter wardrobe essential, tackled with aplomb at Victoria Beckham and Emilia Wickstead, while A.W.A.K.E Mode offered a quilted velvet version with an exaggerated collar. At Jil Sander, a bell-sleeved leather shirt with matching pants was rendered head-to-toe in the shade, while Christopher Kane swathed a pleated bra-dress from the chest down in the sweet hue.

Equestrian Trappings

An affluent array of designers paid homage to equestrian style and turning out bourgeois tailoring this season, with Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s show for Hermès plunging into the brand’s heritage for a show centred entirely around the sport. Elsewhere, Hedi Slimane continued his three-season-running ode to the ‘70s bourgeois French girl at Celine, in the form of equestrian-style knee-high boots, horse-bit belts and gold-chain accessories, this time injected with a bohemian edge, meanwhile Shrimps’ regal-inspired show was populated with tartan Victorian jackets worn with riding pants and silk foulards.

Gothic Glam

A certain darkness hung over the collections at Valentino – where floods of black replaced last season’s explosions of colour – and Anna Sui – whose horror film-inspired collection gave way to burnout velvet and vampire-esque leather – as if to reflect the sombre shadow over fashion week of the Coronavirus crisis and the ongoing conversation around fashion’s negative impact on the environment. Showgoers at Paco Rabanne witnessed a procession of decadent embellishment, ornate tapestry dresses and a play on dress as armour in the form of chain-mail dresses in a collection that explored medieval dress codes. At Rodarte, gothic glam met romanticism in eerily beautiful silhouettes that married dark energy with delicate details from puff sleeves and tiered ruffles to floral-print silks and embroidery.

Iridescence

The runways were equally awash iridescence and sparkling ensembles to lift the winter mood and see us through the party season. Rejina Pyo gave high-sheen glamour an office-attire twist, pairing a pearly puff-shouldered blouse with a sleek wool midi-skirt and knee-high boots. Others presented an inundation of red carpet-appropriate attire and party-ready bedazzled ball gowns – Julien Dossena reinterpreted Paco Rabanne’s signature chain-mail silhouette with a thread of fantastical glamour; Erdem injected a dose of 1920s glam into a silver dress decorated with tiered embroidery; and Halpern wrapped models in shimmering metallics with statement sleeves.

Words by Ruby McAuliffe

Graphics by Katie Janes

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