Erdem

Classic fashion glamour walked the runway at Erdem’s show, with refined skirt suits, wonderfully minimalist and elegant overcoats, and dramatic show-stopping dresses with intricate lace detailing aplenty. Despite appearing dark and gothic on the surface, the show drew inspiration from a number of women deeply engrained into Berlin’s progressive spirit of the 1930s. These women were trailblazers in gender fluidity, living their lives as cross-dressers and opening lesbian bars in the midst of war.

The show helped to remind that even in the darkest of times it is ultimately love and expression of oneself that helps to power through and continue living life to the fullest, and this collection of expertly crafted garments pushed the notion even farther.

Rejina Pyo

Taking inspiration from 1920s supper clubs, Rejina Pyo’s collection was a dazzlingly vintage spectacular also taking cues from other more modern eras such as the 1970s and, particularly, from many art deco pieces that were produced in and around that period. Shades of beige were perhaps the most present colours of the show, but in no way did they feel drab, with coats, blazers, dresses, skirts and scarfs awash in the colour feeling delightfully retro and perfectly encapsulating the era from which they were inspired.

Pastel shades of purple, green and yellow added a touch more colour to proceedings in a way which was subtle and meshed well with the abundance of brown and beige. Add in some orange tinted sunglasses and you have a collection that is the epitome of vintage, and that is no bad thing.

Roksanda

If there is one word to describe this season’s Roksanda show, dramatic seems to be the most apt. There was a minimalist start to proceedings with beige jumpsuits and traditional tailoring. The show soon kicked up a gear with an increasing parade of bombastic and bizarre looks that dazzled the audience.

Deep, luscious colours soon began layering on top of each other, before the garments themselves took a huge turn to the theatrical. Huge, billowing dresses in hypnotizing colours walked alongside blazers and skirts with extreme fringing that also looked like they had been plucked straight out of a painting, whilst eventually quite possibly the most dramatic athleisure wear ever created closed out proceedings, with bold geometric prints and colours sitting alongside more traditional athleisure staples like stripes and monochrome colours and the silhouettes of the garments themselves being dramatically oversized with billowing sleeves and enormous coats. This was a true fashion journey.

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

If a Tim Burton movie were ever to jump off of the big screen and on to the catwalk THIS is what it would look like. A jaw-droppingly gothic spectacle which leaned hard into the theatrics and dramatics, whilst also taking inspiration cues from the 1980s pop punk culture of the UK, with bands such as New Romantics and Blitz Kids absolutely being present in spirit in this collection.

All of the hallmarks of classic punk were present: leather jackets blazoned with prints, ridiculously oversized blazers with colour blocking and paneling, and a vivid palette of reds and blacks often combined with vertical stripes to really finish the aesthetic off to a tee. The more gothic elements were present in the forms of swaying lace frocks, extravagant floral prints atop bomber jackets and dresses, and furry boots that were, perhaps, more fur than boot. Striking and beautiful performances were also displayed throughout the show making this theatrical bonanza one of the most spectacular and memorable shows of the season so far.

Edeline Lee

Minimalism is at the heart of Edeline Lee’s latest collection. Whilst a theatrical extravaganza is always a joy to behold, so is having a stripped back collection which really emphasises the meticulous care and attention to detail which goes into producing clothes. Minimalist in colour, with slick monochromes and warming browns, and minimalist in nature, with traditional tailoring of jackets, dresses, skirts and coats on display, this delightfully sophisticated collection strips fashion back to its core in a way which doesn’t feel stale, but instead warming and nurturing.

Words By Andrew Coyle

_{Photo Credit Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Filippo Fior}

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