With over 50 shows from some of the leading fashion houses in the world, there was definitely a lot to take in but don’t worry, we secured the main designers here. Milan Fashion Week was a moment to remember. 

Diesel

Milan Fashion Week gave us the collaboration that none of us expected: Diesel x Durex. The catwalk took place in front of a mountain of red Durex wrappers and was soundtracked by an intimate playlist in a show that championed sex positivity. 

The collection featured Diesel’s usual edgy denim pieces, but the most impressive by far was the way that the brand put a spin on distressed denim. Rather than the usual rips and tears that form frayed edges and loose strings; Diesel incorporated delicate mesh in a sort-of sheer darning detail. This intricate detail not only elevated the look of ripped jeans, but it also played into the ever-popular push and pull of masculinity and femininity as the aggressive rips created a jarring contrast to the delicate lace mesh. 

Roberto Cavalli

Denim was also a huge part of the Roberto Cavalli show. Cavalli’s history is rooted in denim, the designer began his career by creating Frankenstein-esque creations out of scraps of denim; this history was a central source of inspiration for Fausto Puglisi’s collection.

Alongside denim, the collection featured various looks that were constructed by a collage of leather, adding an edgier element to the otherwise bohemian inspired designs. The brown-looks felt very inspired by a 1970s rocker-chic aesthetic, highlighting the retro influences that were weaved throughout the collection.

The collection also featured a heavy segment dedicated to black lace. This section featured a variety of looks that utilised black lace; everything from feathered catsuits to miniskirts took to the runway. This collection was not only an archival-inspired homage to fashion history, but it also served to prove the sheer versatility of materials and the way that they can be used to produce a vast selection of looks.

_{^{Photo Credits: Roberto Cavalli}}

Blumarine

Set against the backdrop of a blazing ‘B’ and stony outcrop, Blumarine took us on the journey of Joan of Arc. The metallic tones put a modern spin on the iconography of Joan of Arc’s silver armour and the shearling knee-high boots featured buckles that played with designs of combat boots. Chainmail tops and dresses served to show the versatility of the collection’s muse as the looks transitioned from martyr to party girl. 

This collection took Blumarine’s usual Y2K aesthetic, which often manifested itself in hyper-feminine looks of bubble-gum pink and floral frills, down a much darker route. The grungy collection was fuelled by danger and while still feminine, the looks explored the dynamic between violence, threat, martyrdom, and womanhood. 

_{^{Photo Credits: Blumarine}}

MM6 Maison Margiela

MM6 pioneered trendy tailoring this Milan Fashion Week. The collection was made up of a variety of tailored pieces, whether they were worn in sets or as individual pieces; layered or minimally styled; deconstructed or classically built; the looks demonstrated the versatility of tailoring. In a collection that emphasised the coolness in wearability, all of the looks were elevated yet rooted in simplicity. 

We have seen many designers stray away from show-stopping, viral designs that the internet devours recently as they favour more wearable designs that can maximise sales. While this may sound like a boring development, MM6 proved that it does not need to be. This collection emphasised the possibilities that exist in our day-to-day wardrobes, an important aspect of the fashion industry that must not be ignored.

_{^{Photo Credits: MM6 Maison Margiela}}

Moschino

The Moschino Autumn/Winter 2023 collection was inspired by Salvador Dali’s ‘The Persistence of Memory’. The famous melting clocks inspired the drip-like hems of the skirts that graced the catwalk. The fluid looks were paired with distorted patterns that both mimicked Dali’s painting and added to the ‘melted’ look of the clothes.

However, halfway through the show the collection took a punkier turn. The hedgehog-spiked headpieces were worn throughout the show, highlighting the influence of punk styles on the collection, but the clothes truly reflected this theme in the second portion of the catwalk. The elaborate ballgowns and extravagant silhouettes were Westwood-esque, in what many have seen as a tribute to the late designer. 

_{^{Photo Credits: Moschino}}

GCDS

GCDS’ latest collection was inspired by the domestic, the looks took a more conservative and grown-up look to past collections by the designer, but that does not mean that the collection was plain or boring in any way. The collection featured a bag inspired by Giuliano Calza’s cat, a piece that highlighted the importance of domestic life within this collection. 

However, the domestic also came out in other forms, particularly the use of safety pins throughout the collection. This highlights not only the process of designing and creating clothes but also how clothes exist within the home. The use of such a mundane yet integral object within the collection perfectly bridged the gap between the high fashion industry and the domestic lives that inspired the looks. 

Cormio

Cormio have successfully jumped on the football bandwagon and used their show to emphasise the feminist roots behind this trend. The venue for the show was a football hall on the outskirts of Milan but, unlike the hyper-masculine world of football, women were allowed to take centre stage in this environment. 

Women in football have been marginalised and underappreciated for years and now femininity is fighting back. Instead of opting for more ‘masculine’ looks to fit in with this atmosphere, Cormio instead forced femininity into this environment, proving that there is a place for ‘girliness’ within football. The Y2K ‘punk princess’ inspired looks highlighted another traditionally masculine environment that has been successfully dominated by women for years. The pieces reclaimed sexist phrases and slurs, injecting an ironic sense of humour into the collection. 

However, our personal highlight from the collection was the hyper-feminisation of the literal football. Cormio turned the instrument of the sport, the thing that the entire game is dependent on, into a handbag in a camp reclamation of the sport. 

Sunnei

Never before have we seen a horizontal catwalk. But that is exactly what Sunnei gave us. Models gracefully traversed the traditional catwalk before partaking in an elaborate trust exercise at the end of the runway. After falling into the arms of onlookers the models crowd-surfed to the end of their runway. 

The collection itself prioritised eye-grabbing looks, from patchwork denim to fringed knits, the looks were perfect for the it-girl who wants to stand out. Much like the runway show, the collection was non-traditional but not unwearable, the looks perfected the more out-there elements of contemporary streetstyle. 

Dolce & Gabbana 

After days of online speculation, Kim Kardashian sat front row at the Dolce & Gabbana show this Milan Fashion Week in an archival red two-piece that was a modernised look from the designer’s 1990 collection. Although onlookers were yet to realise it, Kim’s look set the stage for the collection that they were about to see as the Autumn/Winter 2023 ‘Sensuale’ collection was deeply inspired by archival work.

While lingerie-inspired looks are not uncommon on the runway anymore, Dolce & Gabbana were designing these sorts of collections back in the 90s. With this context the lace-heavy underwear-as-outerwear looks that graced the catwalk this season were more historic than you might think. The collection even featured a corset from 1991 and a coat from 1997 as the designer works to bring back some of their iconic pieces. 

_{^{Photo Credits: Dolce & Gabbana}}

^{Words by: Amelia Gregory}

^{Header Image: Diesel}

The post Durex Wrappers, Catsuits and Ballgowns? Here Are Our Favourite Shows From Milan Fashion Week. appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Fendi

Kim Jones’ striking new collection for Fendi celebrated femininity at its core with the help of a groovy disco soundtrack that reflected the mood of the looks superbly. Through an amalgamation of striking colours and monotone looks, and with each shimmery fabric and flattering cut, each design dominated the catwalk and empowered women every step of the way. It was a party not to be missed!

_{Photo Credit: Filippo Fior}

Del Core

It was florals galore at the Del Core display but that wasn’t all. From dramatic ruffles and
maximalist head pieces to draping trains and head to toe metallics, each design offered a sense
of fluidity and sensuality in line with the inspiration for the collection. Del Core couldn’t have done
much more to make for an extravagant SS22 debut.

_{Photo Credit: Alessandro Lucioni}

Vivetta

With pinks, pastels, playful prints and a spot of ice skating, Vivetta’s digital presentation delivered from start to finish and we were not disappointed. With everything from fluffy sandals to jewel encrusted dresses, the show, titled ‘Moon Girls’, gave us a dreamy moonlit insight into the beautiful 60s inspired pieces the label has created for Spring/Summer.

_{Photo Credit: Courtesy of Vivetta}

Alberta Ferretti

It was all in the details for Alberta Ferretti’s Spring/Summer collection, which presented
contemporary, goddess-esque designs. Crochet and macramé were a prevalent theme running
throughout much of the collection, celebrating the handmade technique which has gained traction
over the past year and is set to be the style of the summer for 2022.

_{Photo Credit: Daniele Oberrauch}

Jil Sander

Showcasing an array of dynamic jacket and trouser sets, the Jil Sander collection radiated power
through boxy silhouettes and statement tailoring. We were teased with colours and prints which
were expertly used to brighten up the collection in the most subtle of ways.

_{Photo Credit: Alessandro Lucioni}

Roberto Cavalli

In a hard-to-miss spectacle of all things wild, Roberto Cavalli served up some major looks that donned head to toe animal print, tiger, cheetah, zebra – you name it! The ultra sexy display boasted floor length robes, cut-out minis and a cape style shirt which flung the face of a lion right into the audiences horizon. In true Cavalli style the collection was daring as ever.

_{Photo Credit: Filippo Fior} 

Max Mara

Defined as a ‘bourgeoisie rebel’, the Max Mara SS22 show presented effortlessly cool two pieces, statement jackets, and elegant dresses. The brands signature set of neutral shades were rampant to begin with, but as the show progressed naturals and nudes were transformed into a sunny hue of oranges and yellows, alongside seaside-inspired stripes. The emphasis was on the bag this season, with a distinctive new style parading down the runway in a variation of colours, sizes and materials.

_{Photo Credit: Alessandro Lucioni}

Emporio Armani

Presenting a fluid collection where both men’s and women’s designs overlapped, Emporio Armani’s Spring/Summer collection exuded that Metropolitan spirit that helped get the brand to where it is today. Successfully catering to the market of the youth, the brand gave us jackets, trousers, dresses and more, with each piece hanging so softly making for the ultimate ready to wear collection.

_{Photo Credit: Filippo Fior} 

Blumarine

Nothing says Noughties quite like the full body explosion of sequins and glitter that we saw on the Blumarine catwalk. Serving us an array of ultra cool, Y2K inspired looks, the SS22 show had low rise denim, studded shades and sheer mesh baby tees, not to mention almost every look boasted a butterfly fluttering down the runway in one way, shape or form, think belts, body chains, earrings and bags. Paris Hilton called and she wants her wardrobe back!

_{Photo Credit: Alessandro Lucioni}

MM6 Maison Margiela

The MM6 Maison Margiela SS22 debut was a rendezvous in celebration of life’s return back to normality. Revealing an extroverted checkerboard print plastered across the likes of denim jackets, trench coats and suits, the collection was not for the faint hearted. Quirky accessories topped off the looks and, keeping in line with the theme, we saw jester style collars and even a pair of yellow gloves resembling the Marigolds we used to wash up our dishes! As the bold and fulfilling show reached its climax there was truly nothing left to give. Checkmate!

_{Photo Credit: Filippo Fior} 

GCDS

Fun and flamboyant was the name of the game for the GCDS exhibit. Fit for an island getaway, an array of wide brim hats, neon bikinis and floral embellished knits were among stars of the show. Platformed heels also had their moment, accessorised with exaggerated prints, sequins aplenty and oversized logos, making for a show stopping stomp around.

_{Photo Credits: GCDS Spring Summer 2022/ gcds.it}

Prada

Prada never disappoints and this season was no different, a simultaneous display of their SS22
collection was shown in both Milan and Shanghai, celebrating the power of technology and
fashion’s ability to transcend borders. The show explored classics, blazers, leather jackets, mini
skirts and a whole lot of black. Though, when we were least expecting it, bursts of neon would
take over the runway. Alongside the classics, there were intricate details like boning, lace up and ribbonlike trains that danced across the catwalk floor.

_{Photo Credit: Courtesy of Prada}

Act No.1

In an artistic masterpiece by Act N°1, we got a taste of structured ball gowns, Rapunzel hair and cloud-like feathers. The collection came alive as models erupted from their outfits into complete new looks. A powdery blue took over the runway and we are certain this is going to be the colour of the summer.

_{Photo Credit: Courtesy of Act No.1}

Versace

From beginning to end Versace SS22 dished out look after look; from cut-outs and sparkles to latex and prints. From dresses to pantsuits, and two piece sets – Versace gave us all. With this latest collection aiming at the Tik Tok generation of now, Versace showed us a revival of vibrance and playfulness. What better way to end the mid-week MFW round up than with Dua Lipa strutting down the runway in a metallic pink number, fit for a queen, ready to close the show in nothing but style.

_{Photo Credit: Alessandro Lucioni}

Words by Ella Citron-Thompkins

_{Header Photo Credit: Fendi, Roberto Cavalli, Blumarine, Versace}

The post Milan Fashion Week Never Disappoints And This Season Is No Different! appeared first on Voir Fashion.