MSGM

Massimo Giorgetti’s Spring Summer 2022 collection displayed a medley of sporty with a summery flare. Models walked the runway in an open-air venue conjuring the summery essence and looking forward to ‘Back to life, back to reality’. Guests delved into the Hypersummer collection where a juxtaposed set of print meets neon and sporty meets evening wear came about. Welcoming a new and fresh reality, the flowery printed outfits merged into the ‘Library of trees’ park, settling well into the high grass background with a splash of quirky and a fun palette of hues. Different hues of the same shade were put together in an ensemble to create a look. Pairing foamy bathroom slippers with the ensembles went unnoticed and called for attention as models strutted down the runway. Cropped hoodies under an oversized blazer paired with neatly cut flared trousers; Layered dresses with an all-over schiffli embroidery, gingham on gingham, denim on denim, and acidic shaded crop tops put together over a floral set or paired with a solid dress centralized the simplified silhouettes of Giorgetti’s SS/22 collection.

Salvatore Ferragamo

Ferragamo’s SS/22 collection swayed to the angles of a summer afternoon slipping into the dusk colour palette. The camera moves into dreary red lighting contemplating moments from a sunset before the ensembles enter the runway. Minimalistic yet artistic, the women’s collection offered an arrangement of voluminous and fitted silhouettes with careful iterations of the pleats. Blazers tucked in shorts, open weave trousers, and dhoti-style skirts and dresses artistically fabricated in rich fabrics came about. Black, off-white and yellow ochre were the centerpiece color palette to the collection in different iterations of dresses, shorts, trousers imitating the sobriety of the dusky sky. Meanwhile, the men’s collection leaned towards streamlined pieces of clean-cut bottom wear, knitted sets, and leather trenches. Tinctures of blue attempting the evening sky appeared in the forms of voluminous caftans and printed shirts honing Ferragamo’s signature style of sophistication ignited an ethereal elegance.

Dolce and Gabbana

D&G channeled a variation of the Y2K trend that has been jolting young wardrobes this season. Joy and optimism as the key phrases to their DG Light collection, the label aimed to script a fresh chapter into their D&G Dna; that stemmed from their roots. Milan Fashion Week witnessed a modern and revised version of styles that were signature to D&G and emphasized Fatto A Mano. Creating an aura of a loop in time, Crystal studded delicates were paired with suit sets, cut out dresses exposing the torso; logo underwear paired with low-waisted jeans; Camo iterations of jackets, cargos paired with shimmery tops, and silver fringed dresses imparted the disco glam and the 2000 version of style along with Jennifer Lopez graphic tees. An array of mix and match with illuminations of colorful crystals, zebra prints walked the runway of multiple spotlights creating the disco scene.

Giorgio Armani

Marching the runway enveloped in Armani’s delicate, rich flounces, models strut in beachy strokes that delivered workwear and evening gowns with a modern spin of the nautical. The show starts with Tim garland’s When again consumed with the saxophone-y medley giving the audience a glimpse into the various strokes projected by the waves when it hits the different frequencies of the sunlight.The lightness of the materials and the hues are collected from the nomadic scents of summer and reinterpreted with an urban feel. Highlights of beading accessories in bright colors accentuated the pastel tones of the ensembles. The models are smiling while walking down the runway as the collection transitions from monochromatic reinterpreted suit sets to chromatic hints of pink, azure hues, blushy greys while assembling a tactile feel of the ocean waves that were designed and fabricated to life in Giorgio Armani’s Spring Summer Collection.

Moncler

Moncler conjured up an entirely new experience of the Phygital dimension in comparison to shows that have started going IRL now.  Representing 11 designers throughout the globe in five cities live-streamed through Shanghai, Milan, New York, Seoul, and Tokyo, Mondogenius celebrated fashion through art, music, film where everybody became a part of the story.  The audience seated in a movie-like theatre wowed as Alicia keys appeared in what seemed like a movie theatre followed by renowned hosts of the show like Solange Knowles, Victoria Song, etc. Each episode represented Moncler’s collection in collaboration with Palm Angels, Craig Green,  JW Anderson, Matthew Williams’ 1017 ALYX 9SM, Hiroshi Fujiwara’s FRGMNT,  2 Moncler 1952 Woman by Veronica Leoni, 2 Moncler 1952 Man by Sergio Zambon, and 3 Moncler Grenoble by Sandro Mandrino. All of the collections celebrated various iterations of accentuated and Avant-gard(ish) puffer jackets as the spotlight garnished with self envisioned pairings of fringed boots, militaria extravagance with appearances of cow-boy style and extreme sports. An immersive experience for the world heading into digital delight, Moncler offered an array of a thorough experience not only through clothing, but elements larger than that, a community and representation of all things that bring fashion to life.

Ports 1961

Karl Temper brewed a contemporary take on archetypal pieces of clothing in a jumble of red white, black and blue. The idea derives from the younger generation’s obsession with remixing outfits and giving it a personal twist. Central to his collection that celebrated confidence and empowerment, models walked the runway in a concrete warehouse imitating the essence of metropolitan life, or rather the concrete jungle. A whimsical array of layered knitwears, modern iterations of biker jackets morphed into mini dresses and deconstructed into skirts; hints of accordion pleats exposed through skirts, blouses and fabricated in snake print leather, digital printed dresses bellowed a call to the new generation speaking in codes of creativity and boldness.

Dsquared2

 Dsquared2 stepped into a grunge opulence as they showcased their Spring Summer 2022 collection in an abandoned garage painted with graffiti art. Drawing the energy from the new normal of stepping out again, Dean and Dan Caten showcased a collection of deconstructed denim with a play on tulles draped over sheer blouses. A rugged pairing of leather capris with tie-dyed shirt peeking out of floral blazers; men in wings and florals covered in vinyl biker jackets covered the collection. The show proceeds to the next abandoned base woven with botanical drama, and the collection slips into vinyl constructed outfits as opposed to the sheer luxé; military and metallic shades create an assortment of grunge drama with offbeat and adventurous pairings injecting an extra bonus of the grunge creme de la creme.

Emilio Pucci

Pucci went for a digital show that started off with the camera swilling at different angles of the outfits as models walked through the show set. Pucci offered it’s signature abstract prints in palettes of fluorescent shades and in delicate forms of the crocheted halter neck long line and mini dresses. The exquisite craftsmanship was resurrected in re-imagined vest dresses with squared necklines and chiseled seams as they first appeared in solid shades of neon green, black, and white with sheathed bandeaus. Intricate textiles, beaded work, pastel print occasionally enter the runway and create the Pucci Drama against the white backdrop carefully reflecting the silhouette contours and the contrasting shades. Ease and sensuality with whips of energy, a quintessential theme for welcoming the new future.

Marni

Marni’s striped charisma for their SS/22 vol. 2 collection was not the only element central to the show. The choir, audience, and performers dressed in Marni’s hand-painted outfits brought everybody under a single roof into an immersive experience of a festival-themed backdrop. Guests came in close proximity with the models as they walked up the spiral runway spinning towards the center stage clad in variations of bold stripes and reimagined daisies. The ‘extroverted tendency of the stripes’ as titled by the label explored shades of blue, yellow, and white in slinky long-lines dresses slit at the chest and thigh, caftans, modified ponchos, and oversized blazers bearing stripes in different widths. Greasy mohawks, converse shoes, daisy cutouts and everything inclusive beckoned a sense of authenticity and eccentricity.

MÜNN

Set in an aura of elegance paired with lavish curtains and regal wooden pillars, Münn’s collection presented a version of regality gone rogue. A brilliant take on bleached denim and suiting misspends incorporated into a chic-glam were core offerings from the Seoul-based label. Models walked in skirts constructed out of suiting fabrics exposing the label selvages where streetwear made acquaintance with luxury and artistry. Snatching the spotlight were hotel-towel fabrics tailored into asymmetrical skirts with Paradise Hotel still engraved and intentionally draped at the front; Bleached and ripped denim paired with a luxurious set of outfits accessorized with metal tag vests and boucle jackets. Munn offered a creative take on the traditional high end and elevated it with a modern twist. Because, why not ?

Words by Manica Pathak

Photo Credit: @cameramoda/ MSGM SS/22 Runway

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The virtual event was a creation from Italian-Angolan writer and director of Netflix’s ‘Zero ‘, Antonio Dikele di Stefano. The video rounded off with an appearance from Edward Enninful (Editor in Chief of British Vogue and Vogue’s European Editorial Director), who has always been a voice for overlooked talents.

The project was carried out by the team at WAMI, an organization set up by BIPOC designers Stella Jean and Edward Buchanan, and by Michelle Francine Ngonmo, founder of the Afro Fashion Association, a nonprofit organization established in 2015. The aim of WAMI is to recognise the contribution Black Indigenous People Of Colour have given, and continue to give the fashion industry, whilst working towards putting an end to the racism and exclusion BIPOC designers have faced; becoming a catalyst for change and representation.

The Fab Five were made up of five talented women; Sheetal Shah, Nyny Ryke Goungou, Romy Calzado Celda, Zineb Hazim and Judith Saint Germain. The designers are now based in Italy, but each originate from five different countries; Morocco, Haiti, Togo, Cuba and India.

At Voir, we wanted to celebrate these women by sharing their collections and stories.

Sheetal Shah

Beginning her training in India, Sheetal ended up securing a BA in Textile Design after studying at the Central Saint Martins School in London. She managed to fulfill two internships in Italy, one at the Cosmo Silk Factory and one in Naples.

Sheetal’s latest collection ‘Breaking Identities’, is gender-fluid and aims to elevate the conventional use of denim in Fashion, and instead transform denim into tailored suits. The collection is injected with the colours of India, acting as a memoir for India’s contribution to the fashion industry. Sheetal also pushed herself to use recycled materials, being conscious of the ongoing environmental issues with the fashion industry.

Judith Saint Jermain

After studying Fashion Design, Designer Judith Borsetto set up her own stylistic consultancy whilst she developed her skills on creating women’s accessories. Eventually, Judith was inspired to start her own line and chose to keep her original surname ‘Saint Jermain’, to symbolize the bond to her native country of Haiti.

Her latest collection ‘UNCHARTED’ is inspired by the love of her homeland, featuring colours of the Haitan flag throughout the collection. ‘UNCHARTED’ offers a range of womens footwear, made from Italian leather, and developed with Italian based manufacturer ‘Pisa’. The collection also includes belts, and jewellery engraved with the ‘J’ logo.

Nyny Ryke Goungou

Originally from Togo, Goungou went on to study at Milan’s NABA, graduating with a degree in fashion and textiles. She then continued her studies in Milan and Paris, where she mastered in lingerie-making and corsetry at the Formamod institute.

‘Ethical Chic’ is Nyny’s latest collection, centered around her appreciation for Japanese culture, whilst using African fabrications in a modern way. As the collection’s name suggests, Goungou chose to use responsible materials, and used traditional manufacturing techniques derived from her native country. She developed relationships with women artisans from Togo, leading to her experimentation with traditional Yoruba fabrics, resulting in her own reinterpretation of the fabrics, offering a similar feeling to linen.

Romy Calzado Celda

Cuban Native Romy Calzado Celda first attended art school in Udine, and then went on to study at the Burgio Fashion Institute, specializing in Fashion Design and CAD Modelling. Romy now holds a teaching role at the institute. She also has a passion for prints and ethical textiles, which she developed during her time at Etro.

Her topical and innovative collection ‘Unlabeled’ saw Calzado Celda team up with Italy-based nanotechnology company ‘Directa Plus Spa’. Through this collaboration she was able to use developed antiviral materials, such as denim coated with graphene, which can prevent the presence of viruses on the material. The collection is ethical and sustainable, allowing for garments to be washed less frequently.

Zineb Hazim

After graduating from Scuola Moda Cesena and being propelled into working in the fashion world, Zineb realised that no fashion organizations were reflecting her needs as a Muslim business woman. Taking this into her own hands, she made the very first collection aimed at Muslim business women.

Her collection ‘Business Woman’ gives Muslim women a voice, and shows that being modest does not mean you can’t dress modern. This progressive message is married with the Prince of Wales print used throughout her collection, to express the masculine and professional side of European culture. She uses bright colours such as blue and fuschia to add flavour, whilst the lengths and shapes reflect the identity of Muslim women.

Words by Nadia Clasper

_{Photo Credit: Vogue Italia}

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