Giorgio Armani

Silence fell on the catwalk of the Giorgio Armani show this week as the designer made a conscious effort to not use any music in the show as a sign of respect for those being affected by the tragedies currently unfolding. This isn’t the first time the designer has altered his show to reflect current events, as the brand became the first to cancel a show due to the then developing COVID-19 pandemic back in 2020, showing that even though clothes are the passion, it is the care and love for life that comes before all else.

The collection itself felt quietly optimistic in nature. An array of razor-sharp tailoring, the kind that is so embedded within the brands DNA, made its way down the catwalk in a sea of shimmering silvers, greys, blacks and blues. The undeniably cool colour palette had an air of futurism about it, the kind of future that was so commonly predicted within media from the 60s, metallic and with a straight edge. Whilst the collection was designed months before the current events unfolding, that theme of looking to the future and hoping for a better one could not be more relevant.

Watch the show here.

Dolce & Gabbana

The metaverse and digital fashion are hot topics for the industry at the moment, and D&G have taken note, with their show this week being a synthwave dream. With a runway lit up in neon blues, pinks and purples, the future was present from the start and the clothes only followed suit. Big silhouettes were a staple of the show, with gloriously exaggerated shoulder pads atop classic tailoring, furry hats so large they covered the entire head, and fur coats and puffers that completely swallowed the models’ bodies whole. If this is how the fashion of the future is going to look then the world has some seriously sleek style to look forward to.

Ferrari

The combination of fashion and technology continued with the Ferrari show. With clothes made from the fabrics found within the brand’s car interiors, there was a real blend of worlds on the runway. With a combination of suits and coats that are as slick as the cars themselves, and pitstop uniforms consisting of jumpsuits and overalls designed more for looking good than practical use in the garage, the Ferrari show was a unique mix of two avenues which don’t often collide.

Trussardi

A dramatic elegance graced the runway of Trussardi this week. Huge, sweeping coats fell across the models and created silhouettes that were simply divine, aided by the fact that most of them were black which added another layer of drama and sleek attitude to the garments. Despite most of the collection being black it didn’t feel like the catwalk was screaming out for colour, instead owning a cool sense of sophistication and glamour.

Tokyo James

Tokyo james brought a masquerade ball to Fashion Week this season, and the flair of his show was unparalleled. Models walked down the runway donning a multitude of different masquerade masks in a variety of bright colours, patterns and fabrics creating a sense of mystery and intrigue. The traditional theatricality of these masks was combined with some serious punk attire such as leather jackets, double denim and some crazy hairstyles that can only have been held up by multiple cans of hairspray. To top off a range of ridiculously slick and modern tailoring, brought some serious class to the show whilst still remaining playful with a variety of bright colours and patterns on show.

Ambush

Romanticism was a strong theme for this seasons Ambush show. Tastefully seductive silhouettes made by pristine tailoring and dresses combined with towering boots and heels exposing the skin played into the side of fetishism, whilst the numerous mini bags paired with the outfits, some in the shapes of hearts, played into the idea of a perfect romance itself.

Jil Sander

The one word that comes to mind to describe the Jil Sander’s collection is elegance. From start to finish, the runway was walked by a treasure trove of simply sophisticated tailoring, the type that will remain timeless and never age. This focus on timeless sophistication was a conscious effort of designers Lucie and Luke Meier, with Lucie telling Vogue Runway:

“We were thinking about elegance. We really wanted to focus on sculptural tailoring, almost couture-like, but we like this new energy, a very cropped silhouette.”

As you would expect, the tailoring itself was meticulous to its core. Boxy blazers, dresses, skirts, overcoats and even a couple of capes made their way down the runway, in a sea of wonderfully understated neutrals that added to an overall sense of sophistication oozing from the show. Jil Sander went back to a time when fashion was more about the craft and simplicity, but did so in a way that remained modern and fresh.

Marni

From a show rooted in the timeless simplicity of fashion, to one now which embraced the sheer capabilities of the craft. The Marni show was, frankly, wild and anything could go… and it did.

The collection embraced the theatricality of fashion with outfits that, typically, wouldn’t be worn out and about on the everyday but nevertheless were coated in personality, telling individual stories that you wouldn’t soon forget. The collection also borrowed from and paid tribute to a huge variety of different themes, movements and subcultures from across fashion history, from gothic, Victorian style outfits to bohemian fantasies, and New Romantics era boxy oversized suits to the rebellious nature of the punk movement. There really was something for everyone in this show.

Bottega Veneta

Before becoming a fashion house, Bottega Veneta was founded as a handbag business, and the first two looks of their show paid tribute to that in a subtle way that perhaps isn’t immediately obvious to the eye. Both outfits (a white tank top and jeans and white shirt and jeans) were made of leather. Whilst some eye might be raised on the sustainability and ethics of that practice there’s no denying that it is a uniquely thoughtful and a considerate way to pay homage to the brand’s roots and keep its history and identity intact in a way that fits its current form.

The collection as a whole was designed for those who have somewhere to be, which translated perfectly through the nature of the clothes. Clean, simple looks with an unmistakably high-end quality to them. Sleek leather suits and coats were a particular highlight of the show, coming in colours of black, brown and a dramatic red with these suits managing to be an equal balance of statement piece and everyday attire.

Dsquared2

It wouldn’t be inaccurate to call the Dsquared2 show this week a bohemian wonderland. From start to finish, the fashion house bombarded us with looks comprised of multiple clashing patterns, which shouldn’t work together, but did so effortlessly! A rainbow of colour which came from a palette plucked straight from the 70s with lots of brown, beige, orange, distilled greens and yellows and some classic burgundy, and layers upon layers upon layers. Seriously, so many layers.

It would be easy to combine all of this and have it be extremely overwhelming on the eyes, but creative directors Dean and Dan Caten avoided such a scenario and instead presented the nature of bohemianism in its truest, most natural and authentic form.

HUI

If there is one thing that was present more than anything else at HUI’s show, it was extravagant oriental prints displayed across a variety of garments. Spread across classic tailoring, stunning dresses and cropped jackets, these prints delivered a touch of organic Chinese culture to proceedings which made the show feel delightfully authentic.

Ermanno Scervino

Romanticism once again raises its head, this time thanks to Ermanno Scervino. Heart shaped motifs were present from the beginning, before once again, moving into some designs and looks that fell more on the risqué side. Bare shoulders and legs were aplenty and see-through slip dresses added even more playful mischief to proceedings. 

Words By Andrew Coyle

_{Header Image: Dolce & Gabbana, Ferrari}

The post From Politics to the Metaverse: Milan Fashion Week Comes To A Thoughtful Close. appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Fendi chose to contrast hard tweed and soft chiffon to celebrate women’s contrasting
personas, while Marco Rambaldi’s show was a celebration of all women regardless of size
or background. Keep Scrolling for everything you need to know!

Milan Fashion Week highlights from days 1,2,3 and 4

Fendi

_{credits: Antonio Calanni}

Leading the way for the charge of models dressed head to toe in pastel Fendi attire was
Bella Hadid who was almost unrecognisable in glasses and a sheer peach dress under a
cropped fur coat- proving Vogues 1983 statement that ‘when you think Fendi have taken fur
as far as it can go think again’ still holds true.

Mint green and mink were the dominant hues of the collection as hard and soft materials
complemented one and other, sheer dresses were paired with the ‘classic’ Fendi attire like
beige blazers and sturdy belts in tweed materials (demonstrating how designer Kim Jones
mined Fendi’s archives for inspiration). When speaking about the collection to Vogue, Jones
stated the hard and soft contrast played to the contrasting attributes that make a woman
powerful.

_{Credits: IMAXTREE}

Marco Rambaldi

Keeping fashion accessible for everyone was the message behind Italian designer
Rambaldi’s FW22 collection. Model’s looked stunning in Ramaldi’s pastel-hued
contemporary designs regardless of gender identity, age, background, or body size.

Vivacious and feminine; Rambaldi’s use of sheer material, hot pink silk, and love hearts
galore drew inspiration from the Y2K pop-punk revivals popular on social media platforms
like Tiktok. Model’s hair and make-up also reflected the styles of noughties icons like Britney
Spears as their faces were ablaze with blocky turquoise shadow and sleek straight hair.

Credits:Giovanni Giannoni

Capasa Milano

Making his return to the fashion industry after 6 years retired, designer Ennio Capasa’s
timeless designs have made a showstopping return to the runway at Milan Fashion Week.
The ‘Before It Starts’ collection of clothing is the epitome of modern workwear; as Capasa
sent suits with an urban twist down the stone runway.

Using material like napped leather and velvet in eccentric bright colours, the designer
demonstrated that looking smart doesn’t mean dedicating to dull hues of grey and black.

Adding to the eccentric business wear, Capasa paired almost every outfit with the currently
trending cowboy style boot in extraterrestrial silver hues. The collection’s name hints this
outstanding show may only be the beginning of the Italian designer’s off-beat revival wear.

_{Credits: Capasa Milano}

View the collection here.

Diesel

_{Credits: Disel}

Denim is often the word that springs to mind when thinking of the Italian label Diesel.
Creative Director Glenn Martens used the first half of his first runway show to live up to
Diesel’s legacy as a denim connoisseur with its FW22 collection cleverly cultivating modern
trends like the micro-mini skirt and trenchcoats in the rugged material. Whether skin-tight or
loose-fitting, dark blue or light grey, the material was used in every way imaginable to
cultivate a collection celebrating the material that marked a symbol of rebellion and youth
throughout the 20th century.

The show took an unexpected extraterrestrial turn as it neared its end, as models ditched
denim for futuristic metallic fibres in wacky hues of orange and blue. Diesel intended the
outlandish ideas behind the garments to celebrate that ‘ideas lead to the future’

_{Credits: Disel}

Alberta Ferretti

Adding to the feminist energy behind this week’s shows, Alberta Ferreti celebrates women’s
ability to dress delicate while ‘acting tough’; portrayed by the storm of models including Mila
Vaneeten and Alyda Grace in soft and feminine metallic ballgowns juxtaposed by their fierce
and confident expressions.

Ferretti used eco fur to craft stunning coats and fur-trimmed boots, while high collars and
silk slip dresses added a sophisticated charm to the collection. Ferretti crafted a series of
garments fit for a modern goddess.

_{Credits: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com}

Emporio Armani

‘Taking glamour back to its roots’ was the aim behind Emporio Armani’s FW22 collection.
The line played to early 20th-century glamour, adopting bright colours and psychedelic prints
in womenswear to juxtapose the ‘mobster’ grey menswear which featured 1920s- style flat
caps and heavy overcoats reminiscent of BBC’s Peaky Blinders costumes.

Optical illusions were also a source of inspiration behind the Italian brand’s collection as the
trippy textiles and grey hues blurred into the show’s checkerboard print background. The
most unexpected element of the extensive collection came at the end as models broke the
chain of grey attire with pink satin ruffled dresses and sequined tees- playing to
contemporary connotations of ‘glamour’.

Blumarine

Their reputation as specialists in ultra- pink barbie attire and mini skirts makes Blumarine
one of the most ‘traditionally’ feminine brands in high fashion, but Blumarine’s FW22
collection looked to a different kind of feminine, one that is powerful and dangerous, yet,
seductive and soft.

With traditional femme fatale red and black shades dominating the ‘burst and seduce’
collection- Blumarine has evolved this season to bring us their most sultry collection yet.

Sheer cherry stockings, fur coats covering nothing but skin, and skirts that could pass as
belts confirmed that lingerie as outerwear is set to be major this winter. However, while the
fresh take on womenswear was key to this show, Nicola Brognano held on to Blumarine’s
staple pieces: tiny pink purses and sequined materials (which it wouldn’t be a Blumarine
collection without).

Del Core

The cocooned stage before a caterpillar burst into a fluorescent butterfly is the process that
inspired the extravagant Del Core show.

The Italian designer’s show began with achromatic minimal pantsuits- representing the
cocooned stage before a butterfly emerges- dancing down the minimal sky blue runway. The
outfits transformed gradually to incorporate more colour, with sleeves that spread like wings
and abstract cutouts- as skirts were detached below the knees.

The show’s finale was an explosion of glamour and finesse as fairy pink dresses and
extravagant headpieces graced the runway until the show went full circle and finished with a
minimal black dress- reflecting the styles from the show’s beginning.

Moschino

Inspired by Kubrick’s 2001: Space Odyssey, Moschino’s FW22 collection brought fantasy to
the forefront. Abstract garments reinvented day-to-day objects into luxury garments.
Lampshades were reimagined as hats and sofas became skirts.

The collection began with a modest (compared to the wacky later garments) ensemble of
sci-fi skirt suits, uniquely embellished with golden household items like cutlery and
doorknobs. As the show progressed, the garments became progressively zanier;
champagne buckets were carried as handbags and renaissance-style portraits posed as
dresses. Finishing the show was Moschino’s creative director, Jeremy Scott, emerging from
the runway wings in a bright red spacesuit; the collection was a product of our wildest
dreams.

Roberto Cavalli

Animal print had a renaissance at Italian fashion designer Roberto Cavalli’s Day 3 show.
From peacock print to zebra print, designer Fausto Puglisi covered every corner of the
jungle. Representing women’s ability to ‘break the cage of norms’ and express fashion
freedom, Puglisi inventively incorporated the roaring prints into skintight jumpsuits,
structured blazers, and sheer skirts- creating a sexy and flattering collection of eveningwear
that makes a fiercely feminine statement.

Prada

Prada’s ‘Ideology of Prada’ show celebrated life and living. Miuccia Prada crafted
traditionally masculine, boxy blazers and round neck sweaters on the female frame to blur
the lines of gendered clothing.

As the music shifted from a gentle symphony to heavy punk, models emerged down the
purple illuminated runway in barbie pink boxy leather jackets, sheer shirts featuring the
brand’s trademark triangle logo, and delicate fur trims- a feminine but futuristic ensemble.

The collection saw elements of almost every Prada collection produced to date, from sci-fi
style garments emphasising their ‘past meets future’ ethos to pieces representing their past
minimal moments, this collection was a true vision of Prada.

MaxMara

Organisation, Intentionality, and colour were the three elements of fashion that MaxMara’s
Creative Director Ian Griffiths highlighted through his FW22 collection. Deemed ‘modernist
magic’ the brand’s dedication to quality craftsmanship and wearable garments was clear
through the monochromatic looks.

In a bid to ‘make real clothes for real people’, Griffiths sent wearable red dresses, teddy fur
coats, and structured black blazers down the runway in matching hues; sticking to the
brand’s timeless chic and modern appeal.

Etro

Clashing prints and contrasting textures led the way on Etro’s runway. The Italian
Fashion House- renowned for 1980s paisley prints- combined leopard print with
pinstripes and velvet with sequins to create frenzied fashions which flowed on the
female form.

Celebrating high fashion, ETRO’s ‘Remix’ collection brought together all of the prints
and textiles that make couture fashion so exquisite. From metallics to animal print,
this collection combined inspiration from the land, sea, and sky to celebrate life and
fashion in all of its forms.

Gucci

Treating front-row A-listers like Rihanna and Jared Leto to the first glimpse of the
collaboration of our dreams; Adidas and Gucci debuted their unique partnership in
Gucci’s ‘Exquisite’ show.

In a carnival-like room, shrouded from floor to ceiling in mirrors, pink neon lights
created an air of mystery as celebrities long alleged to the brand took their seats.The show began with harmonic classical music as models trickled in, cementing the
lingerie as outerwear trend in lace stockings under fur-trimmed jackets. Gucci
Adidas’ menswear took inspiration from Parisian street style with electric blue berets
flaunting Adidas’ iconic three-stripe logo; combining the streetwear flair of Adidas
with Gucci’s high fashion silhouettes.

Peaceful symphonies blended to 80s Synthpop
tunes by Bronski Beat as models wearing metallic flight suits and stud-drenched
bags entered the runway with a new wave attitude to match the soundtrack they
walked to.

Act N.1

It makes sense that a brand inspired by infancy would produce a collection
celebrating glorious rebirth. With pregnant models and even babies adorning the
runway, Act N.1 produced a heartfelt maternal moment in Milan. Possibly inspired by
recent celeb maternity looks, the low-rise bump revealing co-ords drew comparisons
to Rihanna’s recent iconic pregnancy looks.

Designers Gassanoff and Lin also integrated their classic puffed polyester dresses
into the collection, the brand cultivated OTT gowns in a myriad of resplendent
shades like yellow and blue. Taking monochrome fashion to new heights, models at
the show had hair and face paint in the same shade as the bright garments they
wore. The collection served to remind us that a new generation of fashion is upon us.

Versace

Stealing the show in sultry red latex while radiating divine energy, the bewitching
Hadid sisters stormed the reflective runway with an attitude at Versace’s Milan show.

For her FW22 collection, Donatella Versace decided to bring sex, mystery, and
Versace glamour to Milan with an underwear as outerwear collection that was
simultaneously sultry and sleek.

The collection lived up to all of our expectations after Versace hinted at the show’s
revealing garments in an Instagram post, claiming a woman should ‘always leave
something to uncover’. The collection reiterated this message with slinky garments
that left just a little to the imagination like thigh-high boots, underwired corset-style
garments and slip dresses.

Palm Angels

When Francesco Ragazzi began his label in 2015, his focus was on bringing an
Italian interpretation of Californian skater culture to the high fashion scene. His FW22
show stayed faithful to this mission, featuring skater style ripped jeans, baggy tees,
and flame graphics with a luxury twist. Models wore baggy silhouettes contrasted by
high fashion silky fabrics to aid Ragazzis’ goal of filling the gap between couture and
street styles.

Philip Plein

Emerging from the flaming runway, models dressed in daringly dark eveningwear
that brought an intrepid punk attitude to Milan. German fashion designer Phillip Plein
created a punk rock inspired collection to produce garments that were unexpected
and bold.

Rarely diverging from the all-black memo of the collection, models strutted the
runway to loud techno music wearing garments that were versatile in shape and
style. With biker leather jackets followed by studded black dresses, the collection
brought 1960s biker attire to the 21st century.

Missoni

If there’s anything Missoni is known for it’s their knitwear and zigzag designs.
Incorporating the two, Missoni cultivated a collection that unexpectedly brought
knitwear- a textile traditionally associated with our grandparent’s wardrobe- to the
forefront of fashion week.

The zig-zag prints and knitted fabrics were used in an array of artful, eclectic ways.
From knee-length cardigans to psychedelic dresses, the collection was an ensembl
of colourful and enchanting craftsmanship.

Tod’s

Tod’s Day 4 show brought a beige revolution to Milan as nude garments brought a
simple and classic feel to the luxury collection. Stepping away from the chaotic
colour clashes eminent on most high fashion runways Tod’s Creative Director, Walter
Chiapponi, imagined looks that stood out for their minimal charm as models like Adut
Akesh graced the runway in bright white blouses and beige ponchos accessorised
minimally with structured purses and sturdy black belts.

Words by Olivia Booth

Photo Credits: Antonio Calanni

The post Milan Fashion Week Mid Week Round Up appeared first on Voir Fashion.