Giorgio Armani

Silence fell on the catwalk of the Giorgio Armani show this week as the designer made a conscious effort to not use any music in the show as a sign of respect for those being affected by the tragedies currently unfolding. This isn’t the first time the designer has altered his show to reflect current events, as the brand became the first to cancel a show due to the then developing COVID-19 pandemic back in 2020, showing that even though clothes are the passion, it is the care and love for life that comes before all else.

The collection itself felt quietly optimistic in nature. An array of razor-sharp tailoring, the kind that is so embedded within the brands DNA, made its way down the catwalk in a sea of shimmering silvers, greys, blacks and blues. The undeniably cool colour palette had an air of futurism about it, the kind of future that was so commonly predicted within media from the 60s, metallic and with a straight edge. Whilst the collection was designed months before the current events unfolding, that theme of looking to the future and hoping for a better one could not be more relevant.

Watch the show here.

Dolce & Gabbana

The metaverse and digital fashion are hot topics for the industry at the moment, and D&G have taken note, with their show this week being a synthwave dream. With a runway lit up in neon blues, pinks and purples, the future was present from the start and the clothes only followed suit. Big silhouettes were a staple of the show, with gloriously exaggerated shoulder pads atop classic tailoring, furry hats so large they covered the entire head, and fur coats and puffers that completely swallowed the models’ bodies whole. If this is how the fashion of the future is going to look then the world has some seriously sleek style to look forward to.

Ferrari

The combination of fashion and technology continued with the Ferrari show. With clothes made from the fabrics found within the brand’s car interiors, there was a real blend of worlds on the runway. With a combination of suits and coats that are as slick as the cars themselves, and pitstop uniforms consisting of jumpsuits and overalls designed more for looking good than practical use in the garage, the Ferrari show was a unique mix of two avenues which don’t often collide.

Trussardi

A dramatic elegance graced the runway of Trussardi this week. Huge, sweeping coats fell across the models and created silhouettes that were simply divine, aided by the fact that most of them were black which added another layer of drama and sleek attitude to the garments. Despite most of the collection being black it didn’t feel like the catwalk was screaming out for colour, instead owning a cool sense of sophistication and glamour.

Tokyo James

Tokyo james brought a masquerade ball to Fashion Week this season, and the flair of his show was unparalleled. Models walked down the runway donning a multitude of different masquerade masks in a variety of bright colours, patterns and fabrics creating a sense of mystery and intrigue. The traditional theatricality of these masks was combined with some serious punk attire such as leather jackets, double denim and some crazy hairstyles that can only have been held up by multiple cans of hairspray. To top off a range of ridiculously slick and modern tailoring, brought some serious class to the show whilst still remaining playful with a variety of bright colours and patterns on show.

Ambush

Romanticism was a strong theme for this seasons Ambush show. Tastefully seductive silhouettes made by pristine tailoring and dresses combined with towering boots and heels exposing the skin played into the side of fetishism, whilst the numerous mini bags paired with the outfits, some in the shapes of hearts, played into the idea of a perfect romance itself.

Jil Sander

The one word that comes to mind to describe the Jil Sander’s collection is elegance. From start to finish, the runway was walked by a treasure trove of simply sophisticated tailoring, the type that will remain timeless and never age. This focus on timeless sophistication was a conscious effort of designers Lucie and Luke Meier, with Lucie telling Vogue Runway:

“We were thinking about elegance. We really wanted to focus on sculptural tailoring, almost couture-like, but we like this new energy, a very cropped silhouette.”

As you would expect, the tailoring itself was meticulous to its core. Boxy blazers, dresses, skirts, overcoats and even a couple of capes made their way down the runway, in a sea of wonderfully understated neutrals that added to an overall sense of sophistication oozing from the show. Jil Sander went back to a time when fashion was more about the craft and simplicity, but did so in a way that remained modern and fresh.

Marni

From a show rooted in the timeless simplicity of fashion, to one now which embraced the sheer capabilities of the craft. The Marni show was, frankly, wild and anything could go… and it did.

The collection embraced the theatricality of fashion with outfits that, typically, wouldn’t be worn out and about on the everyday but nevertheless were coated in personality, telling individual stories that you wouldn’t soon forget. The collection also borrowed from and paid tribute to a huge variety of different themes, movements and subcultures from across fashion history, from gothic, Victorian style outfits to bohemian fantasies, and New Romantics era boxy oversized suits to the rebellious nature of the punk movement. There really was something for everyone in this show.

Bottega Veneta

Before becoming a fashion house, Bottega Veneta was founded as a handbag business, and the first two looks of their show paid tribute to that in a subtle way that perhaps isn’t immediately obvious to the eye. Both outfits (a white tank top and jeans and white shirt and jeans) were made of leather. Whilst some eye might be raised on the sustainability and ethics of that practice there’s no denying that it is a uniquely thoughtful and a considerate way to pay homage to the brand’s roots and keep its history and identity intact in a way that fits its current form.

The collection as a whole was designed for those who have somewhere to be, which translated perfectly through the nature of the clothes. Clean, simple looks with an unmistakably high-end quality to them. Sleek leather suits and coats were a particular highlight of the show, coming in colours of black, brown and a dramatic red with these suits managing to be an equal balance of statement piece and everyday attire.

Dsquared2

It wouldn’t be inaccurate to call the Dsquared2 show this week a bohemian wonderland. From start to finish, the fashion house bombarded us with looks comprised of multiple clashing patterns, which shouldn’t work together, but did so effortlessly! A rainbow of colour which came from a palette plucked straight from the 70s with lots of brown, beige, orange, distilled greens and yellows and some classic burgundy, and layers upon layers upon layers. Seriously, so many layers.

It would be easy to combine all of this and have it be extremely overwhelming on the eyes, but creative directors Dean and Dan Caten avoided such a scenario and instead presented the nature of bohemianism in its truest, most natural and authentic form.

HUI

If there is one thing that was present more than anything else at HUI’s show, it was extravagant oriental prints displayed across a variety of garments. Spread across classic tailoring, stunning dresses and cropped jackets, these prints delivered a touch of organic Chinese culture to proceedings which made the show feel delightfully authentic.

Ermanno Scervino

Romanticism once again raises its head, this time thanks to Ermanno Scervino. Heart shaped motifs were present from the beginning, before once again, moving into some designs and looks that fell more on the risqué side. Bare shoulders and legs were aplenty and see-through slip dresses added even more playful mischief to proceedings. 

Words By Andrew Coyle

_{Header Image: Dolce & Gabbana, Ferrari}

The post From Politics to the Metaverse: Milan Fashion Week Comes To A Thoughtful Close. appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Spring has very nearly sprung. Just so you can have a head start, we have a round-up of the trends that have been lying underground, waiting patiently for winter to kindly remove itself so they can break through, and how to wear them. It’s time to get SPRUNG.

Look 1:

Dress: Monse Off-the-shoulder paneled wool-blend mini dress (£3,154.99)

Coat: Rains Holographic Water-Resistant Overcoat (£140)

Bag: Bottega Veneta Jodie small knotted intrecciato leather tote (£2,465)

Boots: ASOS Cooper Knee High Boots in Green Croc (£50)

Earrings: Nausheen Shah x Monica Sordo gold-plated Gilot drop earrings (£490)

Look 2:

Top: Marques’ Almeida Satin-trimmed frayed brocade bustier top (£295)

Skirt: Saint Laurent Asymmetric zebra-print sequined crepe mini skirt (£3,035)

Jacket: Topshop Washed Black Denim Biker Zip Jacket (£65)

Bag: Dior Saddle Calfskin bag (£2,450)

Boots: Topshop HADES Leather Red Boots (£89)

Earrings: Marni leaf motif hoop earring (£240)

Look 3:

Top: Jasper Cunningham Cosmic Rhinestone Sleeveless crop tee (£40)

Skirt: Materiel Color-block faux leather midi skirt (£475)

Jacket: Topshop Considered Grey Jacket with recycled wool (£59)

Bag: Paco Rabanne Sparkle 1969 shoulder bag (£800)

Shoes: Dries Van Noten Leather platform flip flops (£505)

Earrings: Boohoo Oversized Diamante Statement Earrings (£8)

Look 4:

Dress: Rotate Birger Christensen Zebra-print Twill Wrap Mini Dress (£510)

Jacket: Nasty Gal I’m Totally Vinyl Belted Jacket (£65)

Bag: BY FAR Mini Black Croco Embossed Leather Bag (£515)

Boots: Public Desire Black Patent Western Knee High Boots (£44.99)

Bracelet: Gucci x Disney Mickey Mouse Bracelet (£345)

Earrings: Columbian Emeralds Sterling silver hoop earrings ($49)

Look 5:

Top: Brock Collection Cotton-poplin peplum bustier top (£535)

Trousers: I.AM.GIA Ximena Pant (£62)

Coat: Anouki green belted lightweight trench coat (£665)

Bag: JW PEI Eva Shoulder Bag – Sage Green Croc ($79)

Trainers: Ebay Womens Puma x Fenty Sneaker Boot Strap (£193.99)

Earrings: Dolce and Gabanna clip-on drop rose motif earrings (£475)

Words by Ella Winfield

Graphics by Séverine Denis-Lessard

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The post Get Sprung: How to Wear Our SS20 Spring Style Breakdown appeared first on Voir Fashion.

At fashion week, there is always something to be said for the fashions beyond the catwalk. The outfits we see on the famous and the fashionable as they swan in and out of the various exclusive presentations become a catwalk outside the catwalk in their own right. And who’s fashion week ‘fits are better to follow better than fashion’s sweetheart, Bella Hadid.

Here are some of Bella’s best ‘off-duty’ fashion week looks and how to get them.

Look 1:

Top: Zara Ribbed top (£3.99)

Trousers: Situationist pleated leather wide-leg pants (£625)

Green Coat: Nellie Studio the leather Mac coat (£450)

Black Coat: Jaded London Black midi coat with black faux fur (£150)

Shoes: Off-white White & Purple Vulcanized Low-Top Sneakers (£175)

Bag: Christian Dior Street Chic tote (£934)

Earrings: Cult Gaia Tortoise earrings (£87)

Sunglasses: Olsen (Brown lens) Rectangular Sunglasses (£100)

Look 2:

Jumper: H&M Fine-knit wool jumper (£24)

Trousers: GANNI Ridgewood slit hem corduroy trousers (£68)

Jacket: Nanushka Cancun vegan leather blazer (£460)

Shoes: MARNI leopard panel chunky loafers (£474)

Bag: VENCZEL Forward Swept Handbag with Large Chain- Black (£845)

Necklace: ALYX Hero Chain (€550)

Sunglasses: GUCCI Square-frame tortoiseshell acetate sunglasses (£240)

Look 3:

Top: CHERRY American classic ribbed tank ($50)

Trousers: ASHLEY WILLIAMS layered tartan straight-leg trousers (£460)

Jacket: ZARA Pleated sleeve blazer (£59.99)

Shoes: CONVERSE x A$AP Nast Jack Purcell Chukka mid-top (£100)

Bag: MARARGENT Pierre Black Leather bag (€360)

Earrings: THEODORA WARRE Gypsy 18kt gole-plated hoop earrings (£127)

Sunglasses: CRAP The paradise machine (£79)

Look 4:

Top: FRENCH CONNECTION le Frenchie cropped t shirt (£25)

Trousers: ZARA zw premium high waist skinny flare astra black jeans (£29.99)

Jacket: ISABEL MARANT Eladim blazer (£765)

Shoes: JORDAN 5 Retro Off-White black (£550)

Bag: LULU GUINNESS Bingo bibi tote ($275)

Earrings: VALET Andrea tortoiseshell resin earrings (£99.60)

Sunglasses: LE SPECS Runways – Black ($59)

Words by Ella Winfiield

Edits by Maggie Dongju Li

Cover by Mehak Jotwani

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The post Style Steal: Bella Hadid’s Catwalk Beyond The Catwalk appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Last month, the Pantone Colour Institute continued its tradition of selecting its Colour of the Year, combing through cultural influences to discern a single colour that captures the zeitgeist of the year. Taking the crown from last year’s Living Coral is calming, confident Classic Blue as the colour of the year for 2020. As we cross the threshold into a new year and new decade faced with social and political uncertainty, Classic Blue offers a sense of ease and stability. For the Spring/Summer 2020 season, myriad runway shows paid homage to the bold hue, the abundance of the boundless blue shade on the catwalks symbolising the industry’s reinforced desire for stability, creativity and possibility. Timeless, trans-seasonal and gender-neutral, slip into a sartorial manifestation of calmness, confidence and connection, taking inspiration from the runways and streets where shades of sapphire abounded.

In New York, Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga sent the royal shade down the 2020 runway in the form of gigantic velvet ballgowns and oversized puffer jackets, enforcing a political message of unity against a backdrop of wall-to-wall azure. At The Row, the warm cobalt shade made for an unexpected addition the collection of minimal neutrals and earthy tones, while Eckhaus Latta’s foray into the tranquil hue took shape in a mermaid-sequined maxi-dress. In London, Simone Richa weaved blue floral embroidery into whimsical renaissance-worthy lace dresses, and Richard Quinn injected romantic blue florals into a black fishtail gown. Gucci unveiled a plunging, navel-baring maxi-dress at the brand’s headquarters in Milan, while the calming hue was infused into the collection at Marni in the form of leather dresses and asymmetrical knitwear.

For something a little more wearable, fleets of blue ensembles populated the streets from New York to Paris, from puff-sleeved oversized tier dresses paired effortlessly with classic white trainers to head-to-toe blue boilersuits. If all-over blue isn’t quite your thing, a vibrant blue oversized handbag makes the perfect – and practical – accoutrement for an energetic dose of colour. The fresh combination of white and blue makes for a harmonious pairing – add a royal blue trench to an icy white two-piece, or top off an all-blue ensemble with crisp white accessories. Or, take a shot at tonal dressing and pair your favourite light-wash jeans with an ocean blue teddy coat for a layer of winter warmth. However, you choose to wear it, make a statement by adding Classic Blue to your 2020 wardrobe colour palette.

Words by Ruby McAuliffe

Graphics by Araceli Alonso

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The post How to Wear the 2020 Pantone Colour of the Year appeared first on Voir Fashion.

What will we be wearing in Spring/Summer 2020, according to the runways? The mood of the season reflected an influential shift in a fashion industry that has long been based on a one-in, one-out cycle of trends to one that’s beginning to take responsibility for its detrimental environmental impact. In turn, a renewed focus on carefully crafted garments swept the catwalks, where streamlined sartorial messages overpowered the constant need for newness generated each season. In spite of the somewhat sombre mood that swept both the runways and streets as the weight of the global climate crisis fell onto the fashion industry, there was no shortage of uplifting creativity, with plenty of out-there trends, OTT moments and an abundance of colour offering a wearable manifestation of hope for brighter days to come.

Rainbow Leather

An all-time fall favourite, the Autumn/Winter 2019 catwalks saw an abundance of the finest sweet leather in autumnal shades of olive, tan and burgundy. For Spring/Summer 2020, the leather trend has taken a colourful turn, with injections of colour offering a cheerful yet infinitely chic antidote to sombre autumnal hues – from vibrant orange and sugary pastel blue at Bottega Veneta to buttery yellow at Emilia Wickstead and supple lavender at Louis Vuitton.

Head-to-Toe White

The tonal dressing phenomenon, aka drenching yourself HTT in varying hues of a single colour, has been gaining momentum over the past few seasons, but this season there’s a particular monochrome look en vogue: white. All-over white suiting is SS20’s key to effortless chic. Look to Alexander McQueen for luxurious lace ensembles, or Tory Burch for boxy power-suiting. And for the perfect all-white outfit anatomy: white wide-leg trousers, a clean-cut oversized blazer, glossy white ankle boots and a fedora hat.

Short Shorts

Plenty of designers made a case for hot pants this season, with a plethora of leather, satin and denim iterations of the shortest shorts gracing the catwalks. Barely-there shorts were almost ubiquitous at Chanel, featuring short silhouettes in metallics, boucle and black silk partnered with gold chain belts. Isabel Marant unveiled a number of frayed denim shorts in varying washed out shades, while Brandon Maxwell’s tiny, so tiny they were basically underwear, hot pants oozed sex appeal.

60s Psychedelics

AW19 was dominated by a 70s nostalgia, with tweed, equestrian-style boots and gold-chained accessories all seeing a revival. Now we’re heading back a decade further to the swinging 60s, with a renaissance of free-spirited silhouettes, saturated colour palettes and bold, graphic prints. Florals for spring may not be ground-breaking, but this season they’ve taken a psychedelic turn – see Louis Vuitton, Christopher Kane and Fendi. Look to cult brand Rixo, whose care-free, Woodstock-inspired SS20 show offered a collection of paisley prints and vintage-inspired florals.

Tangerine Orange

Taking the crown from AW19’s egg-yolk yellow, tangerine orange is the statement colour for SS20. From decadent ballgowns at Valentino to silky elegant day dresses at Stella McCartney, the abundance of orange on the catwalks symbolises a sartorial manifestation of warmth, with the citrus shade evoking connotations of creativity, joy and success.

Go Green

Designers from Dior and Dolce & Gabanna to Versace and Marni presented a visual reminder of the need to respect nature, in the form of tropical prints inspired by jungles, forests and exotic flowers that paid homage to the transcendent beauty of nature and the wilderness. But beyond the surface-level approach to going green, the best collections sartorially participated in the conversation around climate change and the future of the fashion industry. Alexander McQueen was just one of the brands to upcycle materials for its show, with creative director Sarah Burton upcycling fabric from old collections designed by both herself and Lee McQueen, while as ever sustainability was at the heart of Stella McCartney’s collection.

Crotchet

Plan ahead for your 2020 festival looks, taking inspiration from the runways where crotchet was plentiful in the form of vacation-ready maxi dresses and fringed capes partnered with western- style boots. Salvatore Ferragamo’s forest green mini dress, paired with barely-there sandals, screamed summer beach-day, while Ulla Johnson offered a festival-worthy coral-pink sleeveless blouse.

What Trends?

To claim that the SS20 runways were trendless at the end of a list of trends would quite obviously be entirely contradictory, but there were nonetheless a number of shows for which that can be said, at least to some extent. As brands attempt to juggle the ‘less is more’ mentality as an antidote to excess, designers such as Celine, Prada and Bottega Veneta unveiled more stripped back, streamlined collections, offering a showcase of silhouettes that lend themselves to reinterpretation season after season.

Words by Ruby McAuliffe

Graphics by Katie Janes

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The post SS20 Trend Analysis appeared first on Voir Fashion.